On this page:

• How much do you need to spend on a student laptop?
• What’s better for school: Mac or Windows?
• Should you buy a Snapdragon processor PC?
• What’s the best screen size for a student laptop?
• Durable laptops for backpacks
• The best student laptops

Back-to-school shopping can be expensive, especially now that many schools require you to supply a laptop or tablet for your child to use in the classroom. With such a big expense, you’ll want to be sure you make the right choice so it’ll (hopefully) last until your child finishes school.

But how much do you really need to spend on a decent piece of tech? Your kids can probably present a pretty convincing case for why they need a pricey, top-of-the-line laptop from Apple, Microsoft or Dell.

But in reality, a mid-range model will suit most students. So, before you drop hundreds or thousands of dollars on a new laptop, here’s what you need to know.

Plus, for ÌÇÐÄVlog members, we’ll reveal the student laptops our experts recommend. If you just want see the best products, jump straight to the results now.

What to look for in a student laptop

The features to look for will depend on the kind of subjects your child is studying. Almost all currently available entry-level laptops meet the minimum requirements for standard school research work – things like web browsing, word processing, video streaming and so on.

But you’re probably better off considering a mid-range laptop, even if the subjects your child is doing only have basic hardware requirements. These programs can feel rather sluggish on an entry-level model.

Creative subjects generally require a bit more grunt. Photo, audio and video editing, for example, need mid-to-high-end hardware in order to run.

Here’s a basic guide on the differences between basic, mid-range and high-end laptops from our tests. Note that these are broad examples and should only be used as a jumping-off point – you’ll need to closely examine the specs of any specific model you’re considering buying.

How much do you need to spend on a student laptop?

Like any purchase, this is a ‘how long is a piece of string?’ situation. Basic laptops that meet the minimum requirements for school start at around $500. However, you can expect to spend at least $700 for one with decent performance and speeds.

Keep in mind, price generally increases with performance. A laptop with performance appropriate for creative software (design, multimedia, etc.) will  come with a price tag closer to $1000 or more. However, you shouldn’t need to spend more than $1500 on a laptop for school.

Finally, consider future needs. The laptop should last at least four years and a basic model can quickly fall behind the hardware demands of many programs. A higher upfront cost may ultimately be cheaper in the long run, if it saves you buying a replacement model a couple of years down the track.

What’s better for school: Mac or Windows?

As far as software goes, almost all of the main programs required in schools are available for both Mac (OS X) and Windows computers. This includes cloud-based software that runs in web browsers like Firefox, Chrome and Safari.

However, you may find that more specialised software – particularly in creative spaces – is exclusive to Windows or OS X. Check the course requirements for software information or speak to the school to find out if this is the case for your child’s subjects.

It’s worth noting that gaming support (particularly for older titles) is still quite limited on Apple products, compared to Windows. Even some modern games don’t work, including those that run on programs like Steam. You can check compatibility with a quick Google search – e.g. “Will Fortnite work on an Apple MacBook?”.

Apple products tend to be more expensive, which is another factor to consider.

Why you shouldn’t buy a Windows 10 laptop

Security support for Windows 10 has ended. There are still avenues for free extended support but this is also wrapping up later in the year. That means Windows 10 laptops will not be secure when connected to the internet by the end of 2026.

A Windows 11 upgrade is an option for most laptops released in the last five years but the vast majority of older models aren’t eligible. You can pay for even longer extended support but it’s expensive – possibly more than the cost of a cheap, used laptop.

The effort involved in keeping a Windows 10 laptop secure isn’t worth the hassle anymore. Make sure you’re buying a computer that’s either already running Windows 11 or is very clearly eligible for the upgrade.

Are Chromebooks good for school?

A Chromebook is a lightweight alternative to a laptop that runs Google’s ChromeOS. You can’t install most software on a Chromebook. Instead, they rely on online services and a handful of programs in the Chrome Store to function.

They’re a viable option for office work and some school projects, but can feel limited or underpowered in other areas. More specialised software, creative tools and games may not perform well or function at all on a Chromebook.

Should you buy a Snapdragon processor PC?

The processor (or CPU) is the beating heart of your computer. Intel and AMD are the major manufacturers that have occupied the vast majority of the market for the last few decades, but Snapdragon – made by Qualcomm – has recently emerged as a new player in the PC market.

There’s a lot to like about Snapdragon. On paper, it promises greater efficiency and improved performance with longer battery life, which makes sense as these processors have been powering smartphones for some time now.

Unfortunately, Snapdragon’s transition to PC hasn’t been super smooth.Though plenty of brands like Dell, Microsoft and Lenovo have released Snapdragon-powered laptops that work as promised, there are lots of software compatibility issues which could affect your child’s schoolwork.

It all comes down to how processors operate. Almost all Intel and AMD processors are built on the same architecture – the core programming that makes them run. So for decades, first- and third-party software companies built their programs to suit this architecture. 

Snapdragon processors use a different type of architecture, which means lots of the software built for Intel and AMD machines  doesn’t work properly, if at all. Up until now, developers didn’t need to code with Snapdragon processors in mind because they weren’t being used in PCs. Now it looks like Snapdragon is here to stay and software developers are rushing to catch up.

So what does this mean for parents? Before shopping around, find out which programs your kids will need for school and make sure they’re Snapdragon compatible if you’re considering a laptop with this CPU.

The CPU won’t be much of an issue if your child is mainly doing research/easy based work. Web browsers and office applications seem to be running fine on Snapdragon for the most part. But specialised software (particularly creative tools like photo, audio and video editing), networking and programming tools and lots of games are having issues.

After you’ve figured out the programs they need for school, you’ll need to work out if it’s likely to run well on a laptop with a Snapdragon processor (if you’re considering a model that uses this CPU). To do this, look for the following info online, preferably on the developer’s website if available (the wording may be slightly different):

• Native Snapdragon support: the software can run on a Snapdragon PC.
• Emulated support: the software can run on a Snapdragon PC via included software that simulates an Intel/AMD processor. Though this works, the software will operate below optimal performance and may lag, freeze and feel a bit clunky overall.
• Unsupported/no native Snapdragon support: the program can’t run on a Snapdragon PC at all.

If this info isn’t out there, ask a salesperson or contact the laptop manufacturer.

Fortunately, there are still plenty of Intel- and AMD-powered laptops being made that don’t have these issues. So if compatibility is a concern, skip the Snapdragons and stick with an Intel/AMD CPU.

If compatibility isn’t going to be an issue, it’s worth considering a Snapdragon-powered PC if it scores well in our test and fits your budget.

What’s the best screen size for a student laptop?

Though there are no hard and fast rules here, you want to find the right balance between ease of use and portability. Most laptop displays are 13–15 inches, which is suitable for schoolwork.

You may want to go a little larger, 15-inches or above, if your child is pursuing creative subjects. The detail required for this sort of work will benefit from a larger screen. You can also get 10–12-inch models, but they can feel cramped and may be uncomfortable to use for long periods.

Durable laptops for backpacks

Durability shouldn’t be overlooked when deciding which laptop to buy. Most are notoriously susceptible to accidental spills. Generally speaking, laptops don’t like to be dropped or put through any particularly strenuous situations.

They may be able to handle a few bumps in a backpack but it’s best to pay a little extra for a carry case (even as a second layer of protection in a backpack). These cost around $30–100.

Insurance may also be a good option, just in case. Check for portable cover on your contents insurance and read the fine print to make sure it covers your child taking it to school.

The best student laptops

The detailed results of our laptops review, plus the laptops that our experts recommend, are available exclusively to ÌÇÐÄVlog members. If you’re not yet a member, join ÌÇÐÄVlog to access thousands of independent reviews from our state-of-the-art labs.

Our industry experts rigorously test and compare the latest household products and services, looking at everything from washing machines and vacuum cleaners to mattresses, lawnmowers, health insurance and more. We’ll help you save time and money with our independent, unbiased advice.

The post The best student laptops from our tests appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

With so many models, features and costs to consider, buying a printer can be confusing. Plus, it’s not like you can try before you buy instore – if only you could rock up and print your holiday photos or kids’ homework for a test run!

That’s why ÌÇÐÄVlog has been reviewing printers for years – so you know what you’re getting before you buy.Ìý

On this page:

• Inkjet printers to avoid
• Laser printers to avoid
• Which type of printer should you buy?
• Seven tips to save money on ink and toner

Ink usage and running costs

A quick word before we delve into the printers to avoid.

Along with testing print quality, speed and more, our experts also calculate running costs for each printer. We look at how much it costs to print a text page, a graphics page and a photo page, as well as how much you’ll spend on ink and toner over a year. 

For the calculations, we’ve estimated what the average person would print in a year: 1000 mono and 500 colour prints. The colour prints are a combination of black and white text, colour text and graphics.

Some printers come with a supply of ink and toner as part of the purchase price, which could last you up to three years depending on how often you use it. Our annual ink cost calculations don’t factor this in, they’re simply the cost of the cartridge divided by the number of pages it can print before running dry. 

Cartridge costs are based on the latest prices provided by .

Calculating CISS printers

Continuous ink supply system (CISS) printers have a much higher page yield than most standard ink cartridges/toner barrels. We limit CISS ink consumption tests and cost calculations to 3000 pages in order to reduce paper waste.

This baseline exceeds our average use scenario of 1000 mono and 500 colour prints per year so the page counts and ink costs exceed the needs of most average consumers. Therefore, the annual ink and toner costs for CISS printers are in line with what you can expect to pay based on 3000 pages.

However, ink costs per text and graphics pages will be lower if you print more than 3000 pages per year. Standard cartridges/toner barrels are used to their maximum yield, including those that exceed 3000 pages.

Want to know more? Read how we test printers.

Inkjet printers to avoid

HP Deskjet 2820e / 2821e / 2823e

• Type: Multifunction colour printer
• ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating: 58% / 59%
• Print, scan, copy score: 58%
• Price (RRP): $59 / $69 / $99
• Annual ink/toner cost: $565

We thought we’d seen some bad performers in our time testing printers, but then these HPs arrived and said “hold our ink”. Each model costs between 5.5 to almost 10 times more in ink each year than they do to buy in the first place.

Unfortunately, millions of printer cartridges are thrown away each year, so not only will you be putting your hand in your pocket more often if you buy one of these HP printers, you’ll also be putting more waste into landfill – unless you recycle them. Even then, your hip pocket is going to hurt.

These printers are just colour variants of the same model, hence lumping them together. That said, the 2820e did get a marginally lower environmental score, so its ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating is 58%.

But as far as print, scan and copy performance goes, they’re identical and mostly middling. Print speed and quality are only OK and photocopying is poor. They may be worth considering if you’re exclusively looking to scan pages, as these results are at the upper end of good. But just buy a scanner if that’s all you’re after.

Read the full HP 2820e review, the HP 2821e review or the HP 2823e review.

Brother MFC-J5740DW

• Type: Multifunction colour printer
• ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating: 65%
• Print, scan, copy score: 63%
• Price (RRP): $369
• Annual ink/toner cost: $215

Good quality, affordable inkjet printers aren’t hard to come by. This multifunction model from Brother isn’t one of them, with printing performance that’s only OK (64%) and high annual ink costs.

It does come with a very good scanner (84%) but that’s about it. Photocopying functions are pretty poor (38%), so while your digitised documents should have good clarity, images and text could look a bit fuzzy on paper.

And yet, these are small problems compared to the printer’s excessive ink usage. The cleaning cycle needs twice as much ink as regular printing and it’s not like you can let this fall by the wayside. Without regular maintenance, the ink heads can dry and clog up.

It won’t use quite as much ink as the HP Deskjet printers above, but it’s still a significant amount that will chew through your bank account. Look at the figures, you’ll spend more on ink than the cost of the printer in less than two years.

Read the full Brother MFC-J5740DW review.

Brother MFC-J6940DW

• Type: Multifunction colour printer
• ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating: 65%
• Print, scan, copy score: 63%
• Price (RRP): $429
• Annual ink/toner cost: $215

As far as performance is concerned, this Brother printer is basically identical to its cheaper sibling (MFC-J5740DW). While its ink usage is a little more economical, it still uses far too much during the cleaning cycle which will cost a lot of money in the long run.

All other specifications are the same, save for the dimensions which are slightly larger and the maximum paper size. This printer can handle sheets up to A3, unlike the cheaper Brother which is limited to A4.

Read the full Brother MFC-J6940DW review.

Canon Pixma TS7760

• Type: Multifunction colour printer
• ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating: 65%
• Print, scan, copy score: 66%
• Price (RRP): $139
• Annual ink/toner cost: $195

At $139, this cheaper printer isn’t an outrageously priced for its printing capabilities. Performance is firmly OK, for the most part, which is reasonable to expect from a unit that costs less than $150. But once again, excessive ink consumption rears its ugly head.

The low RRP looks like a great deal at first, until the ink expenses exceed the cost of the printer – something that will happen every single year. This may not be a huge issue if you only plan to print from time to time but the average user may need to start printing phony fifties to cover the annual costs.

Fortunately, it doesn’t seem to use as much ink during the cleaning cycle, which is good from a wastage point of view. Nevertheless, the annual expenses combined with fairly middling performance – except for the scanner which is very good – means this budget model is a hard one to recommend.

Read the full Canon Pixma TS7760 review.

Epson Expression Home XP-4200 / Expression Home XP-4205

• Type: Multifunction colour printers
• ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating: 65%
• Print, scan, copy score: 66%
• Price (RRP): $999
• Annual ink/toner cost: $410

The XP-4205 is a newer version of the XP-4200, which brings minor improvements to networking functions and a longer support window. Our experts found that these changes had next to no impact on performance, with all test results matching the older XP-4200.

So rather than waste everyone’s time saying the same thing twice, it seemed easier to lump these absolute ink guzzlers together.

Yep, we have another example of cheap printers that end up costing a king’s ransom in ink over the course of their lifetime. A whopping $400 each year to be exact. It would be cheaper to save up $800 over two years and spend that money on a high-end model that doesn’t cost hundreds in ink per year.

It’s a shame, because print quality and speed are both good (73% and 72%) for the asking price. Scanning and copying are OK (around 60%) and even the fairly limited feature set feels acceptable for $99. But you shouldn’t have to sacrifice your savings just to feed your printer.

Read the full Expression Home XP-4200 or the XP-4205 review.

Laser printers to avoid

Brother MFC-L2800DW

• Type: Multifunction mono printer
• ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating: 63%
• Print, scan, copy score: 60%
• Price (RRP): $269
• Annual ink/toner cost: $175

Though the price is reasonable for an entry-level laser multifunction printer, performance is average. You’ll end up spending more than its price tag on ink after about 18 months, which is better than other models but still not exactly economical.

Credit where credit is due, however. It is easy to use, power consumption is low, it prints very quickly, and the scanner digitises documents well. Copying is poor though, making this yet another multifunction printer (MFP) that’s really only good at one thing.

Read the full Brother MFC-L2800DW review.

Brother MFC-L2400DW

• Type: Standard mono printer
• ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating: 63%
• Print, scan, copy score: 63%
• Price (RRP): $159
• Annual ink/toner cost: $175

Unlike the standard version of Brother’s MFC-L2800DW, the HL-L2400DW can’t scan or copy documents. Printing performance, meanwhile, is exactly the same so, yes, you can still get OK quality prints very quickly, which might appeal if you prefer speed over quality.

In a way, the lower RRP feels like less of a deal as you’ll end up spending more on toner each year. It’s actually cheaper to just replace the MFC-L2400DW on an annual basis.

But don’t do that, please, our environment can only take so much.

Read the full Brother MFC-L2400DW review.

Which type of printer should you buy?

Before you start shopping around, it’s essential to consider how you plan to use your new printer. 

ÌÇÐÄVlog tech expert Peter Zaluzny says: “It’s important to be realistic about the kind of printing you’re likely to do most, and what features are essential for you, and do your homework to find the right sort of printer to do that job – which is where our printer buying guide comes in.”

“The first step is to roughly work out the frequency and kinds of documents you want to print. If, for example, you only print the occasional documents for official purposes then a standard monochrome printer will suit your needs.”

“But if you have kids in school that regularly need to print assignments, templates for craft projects and the like, then a colour printer with low annual ink costs will be ideal,” says Pete.

“Setting up an approximate usage scenario can help you narrow down to a handful of printers that suit your needs. Then you can compare upfront and ongoing ink expenses in our test to find one that delivers good quality prints within your budget.”

“Printers can be quite specialised these days, from cheaper models aimed at only occasional use, to ink-tank (not cartridge) models designed for high output at low cost per page, as well as models designed to print high-quality photos,” he says.

And then there are the multifunction printer models that have a wide range of extra features, from scanning and copying to faxing (yes, people still do this!) and more.

Seven tips to save money on ink and toner

Don’t just look at the upfront cost of a printer before you buy, our experts warn. 

“Ink is usually a bigger component of total cost than the printer itself,” says tech expert Denis Gallagher.

Denis shares seven hot tips to avoid spending too much on printer ink:

1. Remember that inkjet cleaning cycles use more ink

Inkjets have to keep the jets clear, which they do with a cleaning cycle if the printer hasn’t been used recently, or has been switched off. This uses ink, which adds to the cost of ownership. Laser printers don’t have this problem.

2. Don’t assume it’s cheaper to buy a new printer

People sometimes look at the price of the printer and the price of ink – and think it’s cheaper to buy a new printer. It generally isn’t: new printers nearly always come with a reduced supply of ink, so you won’t be getting the full complement. 

And of course there’s the environmental impact of replacing an entire printer, rather than just buying a new ink cartridge. 

3. Check whether you can use compatible inks

Some printers prevent you from using ‘compatible’ third-party inks that are generally much cheaper than the manufacturer’s ones. They’re now obliged to include a statement on the box that they don’t work with compatible inks – you might want to avoid these printers.

Also, a quick Google search will show you how manufacturers restrict third-party ink usage over time. It’s not uncommon for brands to roll out software updates that block these cartridges on otherwise compatible printers, well after you’ve bought them. You may want to avoid brands that do this.

4. Consider a CISS printer

On a positive note, there are now plenty of CISS (continuous ink supply system) printers that let you refill their cartridges from bottles. They’re much cheaper to run, but more expensive to buy – another trade-off. 

5. Avoid single ‘colour’ cartridges

There are a few printers with a single ‘colour’ cartridge, so when one colour runs out, you have to replace the whole cartridge. These printers are best avoided. 

6. Beware false predictions about remaining toner

An inkjet printer can tell exactly how much ink is left in an inkjet cartridge (by shining a light through it). But lasers have no real way of measuring the toner left. So they just count the pages printed and tell you you’re running out when the number comes up. In actual fact, you may not be.

7. Don’t let your photos fade away

If you want to print photos, you really need special photo ink. Magenta and cyan both fade in the light, so if you stick your photos to the front of the fridge, for example, they’ll eventually turn yellow. 

Our laser and inkjet printer reviews let you see how much a printer will cost you in toner and ink each year, as well as how much ink they use for cleaning – and much more. 

The post Inkjet and laser printers to avoid appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• What is the Dell 32 Plus 4K monitor?
• Performance as a computer monitor
• Performance as a media monitor
• Specifications

If you’re going to be staring at a screen for hours on end each day (for work and play), then you want it to be a comfortable experience. Something that’s not harsh on the eyes, with comfortable brightness, smooth motion, and high levels of clarity. The Dell 32 Plus 4k Monitor (S3225QS) ticks all the boxes at an affordable price.Ìý

What is the Dell 32 Plus 4K monitor?

The Dell S3225QS is a monitor with a 31.5in screen with a 4K resolution (3840 x 2160 pixels) that has support for 60Hz or 120Hz refresh rates. The ability to alter the refresh rate means you can create the right environment depending on what you are doing.

Once you have finished your work for the day, you can switch from 60Hz (which is often the best option for flicker free document reading) to the higher refresh rate of 120Hz so movies will be streamed at their best quality.

The monitor is not technically a TV (as there is no digital tuner), but given many users these days predominantly enjoy their video entertainment online via streaming, or via Blu-ray or DVD, you can simply plug a streaming device (Apple TV, Google Chromecast) or Blu-ray player into one of the two HDMI ports to watch what you want, whenever you want.

Performance as a computer monitor

Because of the high resolution, you can use this monitor for a lot of handy multitasking – you can even work and play at the same time, with the ability to have your work and entertainment applications open side by side, or even split into four windows at the same time.

You can watch the latest movies and shows in 4K through your favourite streaming service or optical media, such as a Blu-ray player or gaming device, while answering emails and working on your Office document.

The addition of a display port further adds to the versatility of the monitor by allowing you to plug your laptop in to extend your display work area, while keeping the other two HDMI connections free for your streaming device and/or media player.

The downside of the 4K resolution on the 31.5 inch screen area is that text can look really small. This is where Windows’ scaling can come in handy. The operating system recommends scaling to 150%, but you could go bigger if you wanted, depending on how far away from the screen you are sitting.

Reflections and glare are minimised thanks to the matte finish of the screen, and the stand’s ability to tilt the screen can also help reduce any unwanted background lighting issues.

Increasing the brightness can help make the screen more viewable in light environments. You’ll need to adjust this manually as there isn’t an ambient light sensor. Full brightness was measured to be about 330 lumens in the middle of the screen at 100% brightness, while the standard out-of-the-box brightness setting (75%), was closer to 200 lumens.Ìý

The stand also allows the slant of the screen to be adjusted, and the height can be adjusted from 4cm to 13.5cm from the desk or surface you place your monitor on, but it can’t swivel. It can also be mounted to a wall or desk bracket via a 100×100 VESA mount.

Performance as a media monitor

When viewing from the sides or from a height, the screen may look a bit washed out or pale. That’s to do with the vertical alignment (VA) screen technology used. While it claims a wide viewing angle of 178 degrees, in reality, you do lose a bit of detail from the extremities.

Connections on the rear include one DisplayPort 1.4 and two HDMI 2.1 ports. Speakers are included and while the audio detail is reasonable, you could easily add a pair of external speakers or even a soundbar to the mix, particularly if you want to enjoy any audio with a bass-heavy sound. At a low volume, the detail and bass response is fine.

From a conventional seat in front of the monitor, the picture exhibits excellent contrast and brightness, with plenty of detail shown in shadows and brightly lit areas.

In our viewing test, in which a panel of three people reviewed SD, HD, and 4K content, the consensus was that it was excellent for all three. Of note was the colour reproduction, which was shown to be very close to our reference screen, and the detail, which was crisp, with plenty of depth and punch.Ìý

Power consumption was measured at 30W during typical usage when using a 120Hz refresh rate, and a bit lower at 27W when using 60Hz. Both tests were with the default brightness level. Standby power was measured at 0.2W, and it goes into this mode within a few seconds when you turn off the computer.

Specifications

• Screen size: 31.5 inches
• Aspect ratio: 16:9
• Resolution: 4K (3840 x 2160)
• Refresh rate: 120Hz
• Response time: 4ms
• Panel: LED Edgelight System
• Brightness: 300 cd/m²
• Contrast: 3000:1
• Colour: 99% sRGB and 95% DCI-P3
• HDR (high dynamic range)
• AMD FreeSync Premium
• Audiovisual input: 2x HDMI (HDCP1.4 and 2.2), 1x DisplayPort (all capable of 4K at 60Hz)
• Speakers: 2x 10-watt
• USB hub: 1x USB 3.0 upstream, 2x USB 3.0 downstream
• Stand: height adjustable, no tilt or pivot
• Weight with stand 8.8kg
• Dimensions (with stand): Height (55cm – 41cm) x Width (71cm) x Depth (23cm)

The post Can this Dell 4K computer monitor replace your TV? appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• Calculating annual ink costs
• Are inkjet or laser printers better?
• Saving money with refillable ink

Some cheap models drink a lot of ink, which can end up costing more over time than a more expensive (but more efficient) model. Before buying, you need to have a rough idea of the volume and type of documents and photos you plan to print over the course of a year. Then you can find a printer to suit your needs that won’t cost you a fortune in the long run.

Buying the cheapest printer for your needs

When you’re in the market for a new printer, printing quality is the most important thing to consider, followed by annual ink costs. The other aspects in our test, such as printing speed and copying and scanning scores, are important but only apply to specific scenarios.

Give some thought to how often you’ll use the printer, as this will determine how much of a factor annual ink costs will be. For example, you may be better off choosing a low-cost printer that uses a lot of inkÌýif you only print documents from time to time, because your recurring expenses will still be low.

Similarly, if you regularly print monochrome and colour documents, then a more expensive model with very good ink efficiency may end up costing less over time. Once you’ve figured this out, you can dig into the different printer types.

Calculating annual ink costs

When we test printers, we determine ink or toner life by running the printers almost continuously to calculate cost per page and long-term running costs. This is based on our average use scenario of 1000 mono and 500 colour prints over the course of a year. The colour prints are a combination of black and white text, colour text and graphics.

This can help you determine whether the initial recommended retail price (RRP) of the printer or recurring ink costs are more important.

Low RRP: If you don’t plan to print very often, then a low cost, high scoring printer from our test will be fine. Though annual running costs might be high, your usage scenario is likely to be well below what we use to calculate ink expenses when we test.

Low annual ink costs: If our typical usage scenario mirrors your needs, then look for a high-scoring printer with low annual ink costs. These tend to have a higher price tag, but you’ll ultimately save money compared to many low-cost printers.

Below are two examples from our test results that help demonstrate the difference in costs. This doesn’t factor in free ink that may be included with the printer.

_{Calculations based on annual ink costs multiplied over the course of three years. Some printers include free ink which can offset initial ongoing expenses for one to three years. These do not factor into the projected costs listed above.}

Consider cleaning costs

Inkjet printers need to use ink during a cleaning cycle. This helps stop the print heads from clogging up over time, among other things. Unfortunately, some printers aren’t exactly efficient in this regard.

It’s not uncommon to find printers that use more ink during the cleaning cycle than the amount required to print documents in our annual average usage scenario. This can really drive up your ink expenses.

Though our annual ink/toner costs are calculated based on usage alone, we do test and score ink wastage during the cleaning cycle. This is worth factoring in while shopping for an inkjet printer.

Laser printers operate differently and don’t face this issue. Ink wastage in continuous ink supply system (CISS) printers isn’t measured during our test. In this case, the contributions to the ink wastage score are distributed evenly across the remaining parts of the test.

Printer types: Standard or multi-function (MFP)

There are two types of printers:

• standard printers have no additional functions
• multi-function printers (MFP) include scan and copy functions and are much more versatile, but they generally come with a higher asking price.

Within these two broad categories are a range of features that vary between brands and models. These include photo printing, refillable ink wells, eco modes and more. These features and specifications are included in our test results comparison table.

Are inkjet or laser printers better?

These days the two main ink delivery systems are pretty comparable in most respects, but there are a couple of key differences worth keeping in mind.

A good inkjet printer produces sharp, vibrant, top-quality prints across a range of paper types. Ink costs can be high, but the best models can really make your graphics pop, so to speak.

Laser printers can’t match the quality of a good inkjet model, but they typically use less ink when printing. They can also print faster and don’t have ink heads, which means they can sit idle for longer periods without clogging issues.

Saving money with refillable ink

Continuous ink supply systems, or CISS, use a modified ink cartridge that’s easy to refill. Not only can you top them up whenever you need to, but colour models let you refill individual tanks if one is running out faster than the other.

With traditional printer cartridges, which combine colours, when one colour runs out, the printer stops printing in colour correctly, or will only print in black and white (or in some cases it will stop printing altogether). This happens regardless of how much ink is left in the other vessels.

CISS is far and away the most economic way to print. So, what’s the catch? CISS-enabled printers are typically more expensive. But the long-term ink savings will likely make up for that (especially if you print a lot).

We independently test and review new printers in specialised labs to find out which ones deliver the best performance, and which ones will be cheapest to run. If you’re not yet a member,Ìýjoin ÌÇÐÄVlogÌýto get instant access to all of our expert, independent reviews.ÌýIf you’re already a ÌÇÐÄVlog member, log in to unlock this article and read about the best cheap printers we’ve tested.

We recommend printers that achieve a ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating of 70% or more. The print, scan and copy score is comprised of printing speed and quality (60%), scanning speed and quality (20%) and copying speed and quality (20%). Weightings for standard printers that can’t scan or copy are evenly distributed across printing speed and quality.

The post The best cheap printers from our tests appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

Laptops rule contemporary computing, but the desktop is far from dead – it just got smaller. Apple’s Mac Mini range has been the compact answer for users that want plenty of power in a smaller package, without having to worry about Windows.

The latest iteration – the Mac Mini M4 Pro – ups the ante with added grunt. More than enough for the average consumer, and even for enthusiast/semi-professional creatives that need power-hungry editing software.

An even more powerful alternative is also available in the Mac Studio, which is aimed at professionals, particularly those in the creative fields, and very serious enthusiasts. So how do they compare?

Mac Mini vs Mac Studio specs

The base version of the Mac Mini M4 Pro uses a 12-core CPU, 24GB RAM (unified memory), 512GB SSD and gigabit Ethernet. This will set you back just under $2200, but you can configure the hardware to your liking, which will increase the cost. For example, our review unit included a 14-core CPU, 48GB of RAM, 1TB storage and 10 gigabit Ethernet, which costs $3549.

It has a decent array of physical ports as well. You’ll find HDMI for your main monitor, but it also supports up to three displays via two additional USB-C (Thunderbolt 5) ports. Ethernet is a nice addition in the world of Wi-Fi too, as a physical connection helps maintain a stable network.

The Studio, meanwhile, is a bigger boy in all respects – with the price tag to match. The base model, with a 14-core M4 Max CPU, 36GB RAM (unified memory), 512GB SSD and 10GB Ethernet, will set you back almost $3500. Our review unit had a bit more heft, though, with a 16-core Apple M4 Max CPU, 128GB of RAM, and a 1TB storage drive, which bumped up the cost to $6049.

There’s a larger selection of inputs/outputs too, with four USB-C Thunderbolt 5, two standard USB-C and two USB-A ports, HDMI, 10GB Ethernet and an SD card slot. The additional ports and SD slot will likely appeal to creative professionals as these can improve workflow from external devices such as hard drives, cameras or portable recorders.Ìý

All these extra bits and pieces make the Mac Studio quite a bit bigger than the Mini. The square footprint of the Mini is 12.7cm with 5cm of height, whereas the Studio takes up much more room at 19.7cm and 9.5cm respectively.

How do the Mini and Studio perform?

Apple’s M4 CPU, whether it’s the Pro version in the mini, or the upgraded Max alternative in the Studio, is the centrepiece on show. Each one is a big, beefy brain that can easily handle all but the most processor-heavy tasks.

You won’t face any issues with demanding work such as graphic design or image and video editing, and graphically intense gaming shouldn’t be a problem either. However, tasks like highly-detailed 3D rendering and animation can cause some slowdown in the Mini, but this isn’t an issue with the Studio thanks to the higher RAM capacity.

Data moves around at a rapid pace, too. We clocked the solid-state drive (SSD) at over five gigabytes per second in the Mini when reading and writing data. The Wi-Fi 6E adapter in each model can also hit transfer speeds of up to 60 megabytes per second. In other words, really fast.

Where the Studio is markedly different to the Mini is in the way it handles displays and peripherals. It’s better equipped to connect super-high-res screens like 8K and fast external storage devices (Thunderbolt solid state drives). The higher-end hardware also improves performance by about 20 percent overall.

And despite all this power, the M4 Pro CPU doesn’t use much energy. Our experts recorded consumption rates of six watts when idle and up to 76 watts when processing a heavy load, which isn’t too bad at all.

The Studio, with its M4 Max CPU, consumes a bit more power when it’s really under the pump and working beyond the capabilities of the Mini. It uses up to 84 watts, or around 16 percent more than the Mini.

Other things to consider

While the small silver box looks very sleek on your desk, the Mini has one glaring design flaw – the power button. Apple has concealed it under the back-left lip of the Mac Mini, which means you need to lift the whole thing up every time you want to turn the computer on.

This is irritating at the best of times and may be a downright deal breaker if you have grip or dexterity limitations.

The Studio is slightly more convenient, but not by much. Its power button is placed around the back, which can also be tricky to access, albeit less so than one that’s on the bottom of the case.

With all that in mind, it’s really a matter of figuring out your performance needs before buying the Mini or Studio. Odds are the Mini will suit the needs of most consumers who want the benefits of a desktop Mac without the cumbersome size of an old-school tower PC.

There’s more than enough power on deck to straddle the line between casual use and more serious work, as long as you’re not getting deep into 3D animation. But if you are, or you just want a crazy powerful computer, go for the Studio.

The post Apple Mac Mini vs Mac Studio review: How do these desktop computers compare? appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• Why should I upgrade my laptop?
• Can I upgrade my laptop?
• Upgrading tips: What you need to know
• Before you begin
• Where can I buy computer parts?

Why should I upgrade my laptop?

Eventually your laptop will break beyond repair or run far too slowly to keep up with the requirements of modern software. But until then, these upgrades (or repairs) should be enough to keep your computer running with reasonable performance for a few more years.

Storage

Most older laptops can benefit from the addition of a bit more storage space. This upgrade will allow you to install more programs andÌý store more files on your laptop (rather than moving them onto external drives all the time).

You can increase capacity, boost performance and possibly improve battery life on older laptops by replacing the hard disk drive (HDD) with a compatible solid-state drive (SSD).

As well as being much faster than HDDs, SSDs are lighter, use less power (giving longer battery life) and stay cooler than hard drives. They’re also more durable, so any jolts or bumps to your laptop are less likely to damage them than a hard drive.

SSD prices have come down a lot over the years. You should be able to find an SSD that’s the same size as your laptop’s HDD for similar price, with a bit of shopping around. Even newer laptops that include an SSD by default can still benefit from a storage upgrade.

Most laptops use 2.5-inch SATA drives which just look like a mini hard drive (a little rectangle). Newer models released in the last five years or so generally use M.2 SSD storage sticks which look similar to RAM.

Battery

Laptop batteries wear down over time. A battery that could once hold a six-hour charge may now offer as little as 45 minutes of use before needing to be charged. Just like a car, you can fix this problem with a fresh new battery.

You shouldn’t have too much trouble finding a replacement online, though we recommend contacting the manufacturer first. If they don’t have spare parts, they may be able to point you in the direction of a reputable vendor.

RAM

Measured in gigabytes (GB), Random Access Memory (RAM) temporarily stores data while the computer is powered on. The operating system and software need a minimum amount of RAM to run smoothly. The more RAM in your computer, the better the performance – up to a point.

Say you have photo editing software that needs at least 8GB of RAM to run. You will be able to run the program if your laptop only has 8GB of RAM, but it will feel quite slow. If you upgrade to 16GB, the program’s performance, especially load times, will improve.

A larger amount of RAM also gives you the option to run multiple programs at the same time without things slowing down. For example, you may want to work in Photoshop with a YouTube tutorial running in the background.

Most entry- to mid-level computers come with 4–8GB of RAM. General performance will improve if you bump this up to 16 or 32GB.

Can I upgrade my laptop?

This mostly depends on the age of the laptop. As a general rule, older laptops are easier to upgrade or repair.

Most newer laptops have at least some components that are glued or soldered in place, requiring special tools or professional expertise to repair or upgrade. Some even use back panels that can’t be removed, making any upgrades impossible.

Here are the elements you’ll need to check if you’re looking to upgrade.

Back panel

Most older laptops use screws to hold the back panel in place, whereas newer models use a combination of screens and clips. You may also notice small, removable sections in the back panel. These are quick access points for upgradable parts, so you don’t need to worry about removing the whole panel.

First, take out the screws. If the panel pops off, you’re in luck, there’s no more work required. If not, it’s probably clipped in. Don’t worry, you can still pry it off in most cases but it takes a little work.

You’ll need a prying tool with a small, flat end such as a guitar pick. Gently ease the clips apart with a small amount of force if required. Don’t use a flathead screwdriver – the metal will damage the computer.

Some laptops make it near impossible to access the interior components by affixing the back panel with adhesive. If the prying tool won’t go in, or you can’t see a clear seam where the back panel meets the body of the laptop, it’s most likely glued on. Though it’s possible to remove glued-on back panels, doing it safely takes expensive tools and technical skills.

Battery, storage and RAM

SATA storage drives and batteries are typically screwed and/or clipped in place. Remove the screws or give these parts a gentle wiggle to feel for any give. If the storage and batteries don’t budge, they’re probably designed to stay put.

If the battery can be removed, note the model number. This will make it much easier to find a replacement.

Replaceable RAM sticks are designed to slot in and out as well. Once you find the RAM, pinch each side and gently pull back to ease it out. If you can’t see any obvious RAM sticks, it likely means that your laptop uses an alternative version that is soldered to the motherboard. These can’t be replaced.

Do not try to pry these parts out, especially the battery. One slip and you could pierce the casing, exposing you to harmful chemicals.

Upgrading tips: What you need to know

At the end of the day, it’s important to keep your expectations in check. These upgrades can breathe new life into an ageing computer, but don’t expect it to perform like it’s fresh out of the box.

Software and hardware performance are bound by the processor (CPU). For example, your CPU may not be fast enough to access all the advantages of the best quality RAM on the market. A new program will still run slowly on a laptop with an older CPU, no matter how much RAM you have.

Finally, any kind of upgrade runs the risk of data loss or hard drive corruption. Back up everything on your computer before diving in, and also make sure you back up your files if you plan to do a fresh install, which involves reinstalling the operating system and software from scratch (covered below).

Storage

Replacing the hard drive is a fairly involved process. You’ll need to reinstall the operating system (this is called a ‘fresh’ or ‘clean’ install), or clone the existing hard drive to the new one. If any of these steps sound too involved, ask a tech-savvy friend to help.

You have to create a bootable drive of the operating system if you want to run a fresh install. This sounds a lot more intimidating than it actually is, because Microsoft and Apple have step-by-step instructions on how to do this with a USB.

Once the operating system is up and running, you can move files back onto the PC and reinstall your preferred programs.

The other option is to clone (aka mirror) the entire drive. This creates a one-for-one copy of your computer, so you can reinstall everything on the new drive in one go. Apple and Microsoft supply these tools with their operating systems, or you can try third-party programs that have additional features.

While convenient, this method will also copy all the junk, bloat and random files that computers accumulate over time. These are often the cause of performance issues. A fresh install is slower but cleans everything out in one go.

Battery

There are two minor issues you may encounter while replacing the battery. First, the battery may connect to the rest of the laptop with a kind of push pad that’s taped down (rather than a plug or socket). If this is the case, keep some insulation tape on hand so you can reconnect the pad when you insert the new battery.

Secondly, there’s a small chance the computer will boot into the BIOS after installing the new battery, instead of the familiar login screen. Don’t worry, you don’t need to understand the BIOS if you’re just replacing the battery.

If your computer loads the screen pictured below, navigate to “save and exit” using the arrow keys and press “enter”. It should boot up as normal from now on.

RAM

Replacing the RAM is pretty straightforward. You don’t need to fiddle with any advanced settings – once it’s installed your laptop will automatically recognise it.

But RAM sticks come in in different shapes and sizes. Check the dimensions of the RAM in your laptop before buying replacement parts to make sure they will fit.

Before you begin

You’ll need to prepare a few things before attempting a hardware upgrade.

Check the laptop specifications

Head to the manufacturer’s website and find the specifications for your laptop. This should outline the maximum amount of storage and RAM that your laptop can take, and whether there are any other hardware limitations.

For example, older laptops may not be compatible with the newest types of RAM. Or they may not be able to utilise the high data-transfer speeds offered by the latest hardware. You could end up paying for gear you can’t actually use.

If this information isn’t available, contact the manufacturer. You can also check third-party websites as a last resort.

Back up your computer

As mentioned above, back up your files before attempting any upgrades. Repeat: back up your files!

Gather the right tools

You’ll need a precision screwdriver set, prying tools and possibly some insulation tape. Computers are also dust magnets and this is a good opportunity to give your laptop a clean. Grab some compressed air and a soft brush if you want to clear out the dust while you’re there.

Prepare a proper workspace

Most of these upgrades will take a few hours if it’s your first time. Prepare a workspace that you can occupy for a period and clear away any dust, gunk and other items you don’t need.

You’ll be working with a lot of tiny screws of varying sizes, so grab a handful of small jars or bowls to separate and store them during the installation. It’s also worth setting up a bright light, or popping on a headlamp, so you can clearly see the workspace.

Where can I buy computer parts?

There’s no shortage of local and overseas retailers online with all the spare parts you could ever need. Manufacturers also sell components from time to time, but they don’t tend to keep them in stock for more than a year or two after a laptop comes out.

You can find computer parts stores in most cities as well. Repairers, meanwhile, don’t always have a lot of parts for sale, though they can order things in if you prefer to shop offline.

Big name stores like JB and Harvey Norman may have RAM and storage available on request.

How to recycle old computer parts

The is a one stop shop for e-waste information. Just punch in your postcode and it will list all registered drop-off points in the area. Call the drop-off location beforehand just to make sure they’ll accept your laptop parts.

Most e-waste drop-offs, such as will be able to take old hard drives and RAM off your hand as well.

Batteries are a little different. The is the Recycling Near You alternative for batteries. It lists locations in your area, such as , that can to take your old laptop batteries.

Finally, most councils run e-waste drop-off events throughout the year. They accept electronics including computer parts and accessories (though batteries may not be accepted). Check your local council website for more information.

The post Tips for upgrading and repairing a laptop appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• Setting up your printer
• Connecting a printer to an Android device
• How to print from an Android device
• Connecting and printing from an iOS device
• Printing from an Android or iOS device via email

In this article, we walk you through how to do it.

Setting up your printer

Before you get started, you need to connect your printer to the internet. Every brand (and even specific models from a brand) does this a little differently, so start by following the networking steps in the manual.

If you’ve misplaced the manual, you can almost always find a PDF online by searching the brand and model number. This should be printed on the bottom or side of the case, or on a sticker.Ìý

Once your printer is online, you can connect your Android or iOS devices using the following steps.

Connecting a printer to an Android device

The Default Print Service is the easiest way to connect an Android device to compatible printers. This replaced Google Cloud Print, which was shut down at the end of 2020.

Connecting via Wi-Fi

Android’s Default Print Service basically tells your phone or tablet to find printers on the same Wi-Fi network. Every major manufacturer (Canon, Epson etc.) supports it, so you shouldn’t have any trouble getting things up and running.

Make sure your printer and smartphone or tablet are connected to your home internet. This won’t work if your mobile device is connected to 4G or 5G.

To connect your phone via the Default Print Service, go into the phone’s settings, search for “printing”, then select it from the results. Next, tap Printing in the list of Connection preferences, select Default Print Service and turn it on. A list of compatible printers on the network should appear. Select yours from the list.

If your printer doesn’t appear in the list then you have three options.

First, go back to the printer settings, but instead of selecting Default Print Service, tap Add service. This will take you to a list of printer services for specific manufacturers. Select your brand, download it, then open printer settings to find your model. Follow the steps in the brand-specific service to find your printer.

If that doesn’t work, or if the manufacturer hasn’t released a plugin, try a third-party service. These are available in the same location on the Google Play Store and they’ll scan your home network for any active printers, regardless of the brand. PrinterOn and PrinterShare Mobile Print are two popular options (but we haven’t tested them).

Finally, you can manually add your printer to the Default Print Service via Wi-Fi direct or its IP address. To use the IP, get into your router’s settings (steps vary between brands) and find a section called Attached Devices or something similar.

Locate your printer in the list of devices, write down the IP address (e.g. 192.86.255.7) then go back to the Default Print Service. Tap the three vertical dots in the top right corner, select Add printer, then Add printer by IP address. Type in the IP, tap Add and it should appear in the list.

To use Wi-Fi Direct, go to Add printer then turn on Wi-Fi Direct printing. This will scan the area for Wi-Fi Direct-supported printers to establish a direct local connection that doesn’t require an internet connection.

Connecting via Bluetooth

Though fewer printers support Bluetooth, it’s actually a bit easier than using Wi-Fi as you don’t need to worry about any networking. If you’ve ever connected your phone or tablet to a Bluetooth speaker then you’ll know what to do, as the process is essentially the same.

First, turn on your printer’s Bluetooth scanning function. Each brand (and even model) does this a little differently, so check the instruction manual. Once it’s scanning, go to your phone’s settings, tap Connected devices and select Pair new device. This will tell the phone to scan for nearby Bluetooth-enabled devices. When your printer appears in the list of nearby devices, tap to connect.

Note: the printer will disconnect if you turn off Bluetooth or your phone or tablet is too far away. It should automatically reconnect when you activate Bluetooth on your printer and phone or tablet. If not, go back to the connected devices section and select your printer from the list of previously connected devices.

You can also rename the printer in the Bluetooth settings. Tap the cog icon next to the printer in the list of previously connected devices, followed by the pencil icon next to Device details. Enter the new name and tap “Rename” for the changes to take effect.

How to print from an Android device

Now that your printer is connected, you can print from your phone. The steps are the same regardless of the connection method.

To print an image, tap the same three vertical dots, then scroll to the end of the horizontal menu and tap Print.Ìý

To print a document (such as a PDF), tap the three vertical dots in the top right corner and select Print.Ìý

Once you’re in the print menu, tap Select a printer, pick yours from the list, make any adjustments you need to in the printing options, preview the document and then tap the print icon.

Connecting and printing from an iOS device

Like Android, iOS has a printer service that can easily connect supported devices on the same Wi-Fi network. It’s called AirPrint, and you can find a .

If you’re buying a new printer and want to print from an iPhone, make sure you get one with the AirPrint logo on the box. Once it’s unpacked, connect it to your home network then make sure AirPrint is turned on in the settings.

Your specific model will have instructions on how to access the settings via a web browser. Once you’re there, in the Network tab (or something similar), look for the AirPrint section and turn it on.

Note the following steps are for iOS 18. However, the process should be similar for the last few versions of Apple’s smartphone operating system.

Open the document, photo or webpage that you’d like to print from on your iPhone or iPad and tap the share icon (a square with an arrow pointing up). This will open the sharing options. Scroll down and select Print to open Printer Options.

If this is your first time using the Printer Options, there will be an option at the top of the screen to Select Printer. Tap it and select your AirPrint-enabled printer from the list. It should save this printer as the default for future use. Once it’s connected, tap PrintÌýin the top right corner to print your document.

If your printer doesn’t have AirPrint, you’ll need to download a free app from the manufacturer that does the same thing. Just search for the brand in the app store, download and follow the steps to connect. Some require you to open and print documents from the app, while others let you add a shortcut to the share section in your phone.

You could also try a third-party app such as or . These handle the same basic tasks but may have an interface or additional features that you like (we haven’t tested them).

Connecting via Bluetooth

While there are some claims that you can print from an iOS device via Bluetooth, there’s nothing official from Apple and we couldn’t get it working either. It may be possible, but we suggest sticking with AirPrint.

Tap and print with NFC

Some printers also support NFC (near field communication), which makes the Bluetooth connection process even easier. Make sure your smartphone and printer are connected to the same network, then enable NFC on your phone and tap the printer in the appropriate area (there should be an ‘NFC’ mark on the front or side of the printer).

NFC should automatically handle the rest of the steps. Then you can print as normal.

Printing from an Android or iOS device via email

Some printer brands have a pretty nifty feature that lets you email documents, photos and webpages to your printer. All you need to do is set up an email address for your printer, and then when you hit send, it automatically prints your document. You don’t need to be at home (or even on the same network) for this to work as long, as your printer is on and connected to the internet.

How you set this up depends on the brand of printer. Some, such as HP, require additional software. Others require product registration. They may allocate an email or allow you to create one yourself. You can find the details at the below links.

• (requires an app)

The post How to connect your smartphone to a printer appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

Multifunction printers were once quite expensive compared to standard printers, but these days there are plenty of affordable models with pretty decent inbuilt scanners.

We’ve gathered the top-performing MFPs in our test and also listed the best models if you’re on a budget, and the best models for scanning documents, photos and more.

Do you need a scanner?

It may seem like antiquated technology, but there are still plenty of documents that can benefit from being digitised.

Photos are an obvious one, especially if you have albums from the days when film was the only format. Not only does this make them easier to share with friends and family, it also provides a point of backup if your shots are ever lost or damaged.

Receipts are also worth scanning and come in very handy if you need to make a warranty claim or provide proof for a tax deduction. Many of them fade over time, some end up in long-forgotten boxes that are impossible to find when you need them, and others get thrown out accidentally during a decluttering. Digitised receipts, meanwhile, are easier to store and locate.

Official or legal documents still tend to come by mail rather than email, and like receipts, keeping some scanned backups can save you many headaches down the line.

Why a scanner might be worth it

You may want to consider a dedicated scanner, rather than a multifunction printer, if:

• you rarely (if ever) print documents but regularly scan or copy them (e.g. receipts)
• you don’t have the desk space for a large MFP but have the shelf space for a small printer and small scanner
• you want high quality scans for photos, graphic novels or artwork.

Though there are good quality MFP scanners available, it’s worth looking at a high-end photo scanner if you want top results.

The best multifunction printers

Most MFPs use inkjet technology for printing. Good quality inkjets produce sharp, vibrant, top-quality prints across a range of paper types, but ink costs can be higher compared to laser printers. Of the 30Ìýprinters we recommend, only two of those models are laser MFPs.Ìý

As part of our product testing, we independently test and review new printers in specialised labs to find out which ones deliver the best printing performance and which ones will be cheapest to run. If you’re not yet a member,Ìýjoin ÌÇÐÄVlogÌýto get instant access to all of our expert, independent product and service reviews.ÌýIf you’re already a member, log in to unlock this article and read about the best printers we’ve tested.

Printers with a ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating (our overall score) of 70% or more, and a print quality score of more than 70%, earn the ‘ÌÇÐÄVlogÌýRecommended’ seal of approval.Ìý

The post The best printers and scanners from our tests appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• Entry-level, mid-range or high-end laptop?
• Different types of laptop
• What to look for in a laptop
• Australia's best laptop brand

Finding the right model to suit your needs and price range involves a whole lot of other considerations, too, which is where we come in.

Entry-level, mid-range or high-end laptop?

Entry-level

If you want a cheap laptop for basic tasks and occasional or lighter use and aren’t overly concerned about performance, weight or battery life, you can find sub-$700 “budget” models.

These low-cost laptops are relatively low-powered, but capable of general computing tasks such as web browsing, email and general word processing. They can handle most basic multimedia tasks (e.g. standard definitionÌývideo streaming) and are best suited to casual users and younger students.Ìý

Mid-range

If you want to take your laptop with you on-the-go a lot, you’ll want something thin, light and easy to carry. Look for an ultraportable (including Ultrabooks).

Generally speaking, mid-range laptops are aimed at regular computer users, families, students and business people, andÌýcan run most software and games, but may struggle a bit with high-end work such as intensive video editing and games that require exceptionally fast graphics processing.Ìý

High-end

If you want something to give you the processing power of a desktop computerÌýwhile being transportable with relative ease, look for a powerful (preferably latest-generation) processor and plenty of RAM (at least 16GB). Some high-end models are “gaming laptops” which have particularly powerful graphics capabilities, via specialised graphics cards, and a very fast high-resolution screen.Ìý

High-end laptops are for serious computer enthusiasts and professionals who like to push their systems with intensive computing tasks, including editing video and audio, programming, 3D rendering and high-end games.

Different types of laptop

The terms laptop used to mean one thing – a portable computer. But these days there are a bunch of options available designed for certain tasks and consumer needs.

Windows, Mac or Chrome OS?

Operating systems tend to polarise opinion. Ask a room of techies whether you should go with a Windows, Mac or Chrome OS laptop or tablet and you’ll start a heated debate that will go for a long time but nobody will win (though everyone will maintain that they’re right). Go even deeper down the geeky rabbit hole and you’ll likely find plenty of Linux fans.

All systems have their good and bad points, but it’s important for you to choose a side, because it affects your software choices and possibly your hardware decisions, too. This is definitely the case with Apple products and Chrome OS in particular.Ìý

Apple’s macOS (formerly called OS X) only runs on Apple’s family of computers, while iPadOS only runs on iPads, but they’re designed to work seamlessly with Apple’s other operating systems: iOS (iPhones), tvOS (Apple TV) and watchOS (Apple Watch).

Chrome OS runs on laptops, mini PC desktops and PC sticks that are specifically designed for it, usually of a relatively lightweight configuration that is meant to be internet-connected most of the time.

Even outside enterprise users, Microsoft’s Windows has several versions, with Home being the consumer version, Pro for more serious users and Windows in S mode for lightweight laptops aimed at being an alternative to Chromebooks.

These days Windows and Chrome OS have a much greater degree of interoperability with Android, though not to the same degree as Apple’s tightly integrated hardware-software ecosystems.

Android is also outgrowing its phone-centric roots to also be seen as a stand-alone OS for tablets, most notably by Samsung and Lenovo.

What to look for in a laptop

CPU (central processing unit)

This is the brain of your computer. The number of cores, processing power and price range is a good indicator of the overall level of CPU power on offer. Laptops generally use low-power-consumption CPUs for better battery life.Ìý

Be careful when comparing chip families from different manufacturers and quoted speed figures (e.g. 2.4GHz), as these are not directly comparable across brands. The Intel family of CPUs, with those from AMD (their main competitor for Windows computers) and Apple’s M-series processors (dubbed Apple Silicon) all work differently.

The same goes for each generation of the same brand of chip.ÌýFor example, Intel Core i3, i5, i7 and i9 generally increase performance with each generation, even at the same quoted frequency figure in GHz; likewise with the M series processors designed for highly mobile computers. The same goes for AMD’s Ryzen series of processors.

NPU (neural processing unit)

A recent addition to newer laptops that come with AI tools. The NPU works in conjunction with the CPU to specifically process AI related tasks, taking pressure off the CPU so it can run the rest of your laptop.

The main job of an NPU is to process the AI workload in a quicker and more efficient way, compared to the central processing unit (CPU) and graphics processing unit (GPU), especially during complex operations such as image and voice generation. They can be found on laptops that use recent Intel and Snapdragon processors.

RAM (random access memory)

A lack of RAM will slow your computer when running multiple programs, using a lot of web browser tabs or performing labour-intensive tasks, such as image processing.Ìý

Expect a minimum of 4GB (gigabytes) even in a budget Windows system, but ideally aim for at least 8GB for most general-use laptops and 16GB or more for high-end models. Don’t skimp on RAM at purchase time as you will likely not be able to upgrade/increase it later.

Screen quality

A small screen means a smaller laptop that’s generally going to be lighter, but larger (and particularly higher resolution) screens are better for graphics, gaming or watching movies. Regardless of physical size, many lower-cost laptops only have relatively low-resolution screens of 1366 x 768 pixels. Check before buying.

More laptops aimed at the mid-range market have a screen with at least full-HD (1080p, or 1920 x 1080 pixels), but higher resolution screens are available in high-end laptops.Ìý

ÌÇÐÄVlog tip: Choose a larger screen if you’re planning on regularly watching TV or movies on your laptop.Ìý

Storage space

Don’t underestimate how much space you’ll need. Unless you intend to make extensive use of Cloud-only storage, make sure you have enough room for all your current programs and files, as well as the fast-growing collection of videos and music that most people now tend to accumulate.Ìý

TheÌýsolid-state drive (SSD) has replaced hard drives as the preferred storage medium in most laptops, due to much better performance and falling SSD prices which have made this super-fast storage medium more affordable. Laptops with a traditionalÌýhard disk drive (HDD)Ìýcan still be found in some, usually cheaper, models.

An SSD is much faster than a hard drive and can lift the overall performance of a laptop considerably, and thus extend its useful working life. For a general-use laptop 128GB is the starting point for an SSD, but we strongly recommend 256GB or more for most users. Also, check if the laptop or tablet can be expanded via a microSD card, which can add up to an additional 1TB of solid-state storage.

ÌÇÐÄVlog tip: If you need extra storage, you can plug in an externalÌýportable drive or a high-capacity external hard drive. Many laptops, especially slimline ultraportable models, come with either a 128GB or 256GB SSD, though we consider 256GB the better starting point for a laptop these days.Ìý

Many laptops, especially slim-and-light ultraportables, may not allow you to upgrade internal components later, which means it’s best not to skimp on RAM (memory) or storage capacity upfront.Ìý

However, our reviews show you which models give you the option to upgrade core components like RAM, storage, Wi-Fi and the battery. This can help you extend the lifespan of your laptop which may be cheaper in the long run.

Cooling

Computer components can run hot, especially within the confines of a compact laptop case.Ìý

Check for hot spots under the laptop after it’s been on for a while, as these can get annoying if you’re using your laptop on your lap (as the name would suggest). Also check for vents under the laptop and make sure you don’t block them if using it on your lap, as this could cause it to overheat.

Graphics card

Many laptops will have the graphics processor built into the motherboard (called “on-board graphics”), rather than on a separate (“dedicated”) graphics card.Ìý

High-end models may have a dedicated graphics card which has its own video RAM.

Power supply

Often called “the brick”, this is the block and cord that you use to plug your laptop into a standard wall socket. If your laptop battery won’t last long enough for you to leave the brick at home, you’ll have to take it with you for recharging, and this can add considerably to the overall weight and bulk you have to carry around.Ìý

Battery life

Having a long working time between charges is particularly important for an ultraportable. After all, they lose portability points if you have to also carry the power supply unit and cable with you to charge them.Ìý

Ideally, you want to have a full day of working on-the-go without having to plug it in, but this will depend on what else you have plugged into the laptop drawing power from it.Ìý

You really don’t want to have to carry the external power supply unit and cable with you. Our battery life tests look at a heavy-usage scenario, to give you an idea of the worst results you’re likely to get, though for most people the average daily use will give better life.

If you intend to be mobile much of the time, then a long battery life and quick recharge time is important. We also record two charging times for each laptop, with the laptop switched on – up to 80% capacity and to 100% capacity. It’s useful to note that charging speed usually drops considerably once you get past 80%. In some cases it can take as long or longer to get the extra 20% top-up as it does to get to 80%.

Sustainability

As with many other industries, many laptop makers are looking to move to more eco-friendly and sustainable methods of production, distribution and packaging. Laptops are typically less user-upgradeable and user-repairable than a desktop PC, as they’re not modular in build and often have no user access to parts such as RAM and storage.Ìý

Some even have such things as RAM soldered onto the motherboard, which makes it impossible to replace. Most modern models don’t even allow you to remove and replace the battery or storage drive. This is something to look for, however, as it can give the device a longer usable lifetime.

Otherwise, choose a laptop with sufficient RAM and storage upfront. Also look for a good quality build, as this will usually last longer than a cheaper build and can save you money in the long run.Ìý

You might also check if the parts are recyclable and made of recycled materials? Does the company provide help with recycling and/or trading in older models? This information will usually be on the manufacturer’s website.

Also check the website to see if they have a stated policy about the sustainability and eco-friendliness of their products. Are they (which takes into account reduced environmental and social impact through the product lifecycle)? See the Ìýfor more detail.Ìý

Wi-Fi

Wi-Fi speed is important because fewer and fewer laptops come with a built-in ethernet port for plugging into your local wired network.Ìý

If this is the case, you may be able to purchase a USB-to-ethernet adapter of the same brand or a third-party alternative.Ìý

In either case, look for a laptop that supports at least Wi-Fi 5 (802.11ac), or preferably the latest standard, Wi-Fi 6 or Wi-Fi 6E (802.11ax). These are backwards-compatible with previous standards but have better security and other features.

Wi-Fi 6 is faster and designed to support more devices than Wi-Fi 5. Wi-Fi 6E is an extension of the Wi-Fi 6 standard that brings additional capabilities but is not as widely available in devices yet.

USB-C connectivity

A USB-C plug is slimline and easy-to-use version of USB (there’s no “right way up”). But its appearance can be deceptive, as the same-shaped plug is used for several different standards – USB 3.2 Gen-1 and Gen-2 and Thunderbolt 3, Thunderbolt 4 and USB 4.

What used to be known as USB 3.1 is now generally known as USB 3.2 following a rebranding by the standards authority.

Most USB-C ports will be either USB 3.2 Gen-1 (previously known as USB 3.1 Gen-1) – which is rated at 5Gbps (gigabits per second), the same speed as USB 3.0. The fasterÌý(10Gbps) version of this isÌýUSB 3.2 Gen-2Ìý(formerly USB 3.1 Gen-2).ÌýThere’s also USB 3.2 Gen-2×2 (20Gbps). Then there’s the blazingly fast (40Gbps) Thunderbolt 3, Thunderbolt 4, Thunderbolt 5 which doubles the bandwidth to 80Gbps and USB 4.

Most models will have the slower USB-C ports, but high-performance laptops may have Thunderbolt 3 or the latest Thunderbolt 4 or USB 4. You can plug a USB-C device into a Thunderbolt 3/4, port but don’t expect any increase in speed. Plug in a Thunderbolt device, such as an external SSD, with the correct cable, and you have the fastest connection in town.

Even if you don’t have a Thunderbolt / USB 4 version of this connection, USB-C is still preferable to the old USB 3.0, because it’s becoming widely adopted on computers and plug-in devices and expected to soon become the dominant connection port, eventually replacing the familiar rectangular USB 3.0 (Type-A) ports.

One of the keys to USB-C’s swift adoption is its versatility – the same port can transfer both power and data at the same time and it can also mimic a whole range of other ports – including USB 2.0/3.0, SD card, HDMI, ethernet and more – using a USB-C adapter.

However, stick with the manufacturer’s cables and avoid cheap third-party cables and chargers or you may risk damaging your computer and peripherals or worse. It’s important to use only certified USB-CÌýand Thunderbolt cables.

Australia’s best laptop brand

So which brand of laptop should you buy? We’ve identified the best laptop brand based on our test results for laptops and feedback from our members on their experience with the brand.

As well as testing more than 180 laptops since 2019, we surveyed our members about the laptops they own. We use this data to determine which brands are the most reliable, and which have the best customer satisfaction. This feedback, along with our test results, is combined to determine the best laptop brand.

Best laptop brand for 2024: Apple

Apple is the best laptop brand for the past 12 months. The tech giant continues to outperform the likes of Microsoft, ASUS, Acer, Lenovo, HP and Dell for the top spot, with strong scores in our test results in addition to being a reliable brand with highly satisfied customers.

Best laptop brand 2024 scores

1. Apple – 78%
2. Microsoft – 72%
3. ASUS – 71%
4. Dynabook/Toshiba – 70%
5. Acer – 69%
6. Dell – 67%
7. HP – 67%
8. Lenovo – 67%

It’s important to note that the performance of specific models may vary quite significantly, so don’t assume that one brand’s products are the best across the many different features, functions and price points.

To find out which specific laptop models we recommend based on our test results, and to make sure you buy the best, click on the ‘Recommended’ box in the filters section of our laptop reviews.

The post How to buy a laptop that suits your needs appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

Well, the answer really depends on what and how much you print.Ìý

“There are plenty of reasons for printing at home, and plenty for using Officeworks (or somewhere similar) and for most people, it will be a bit of both,” says ÌÇÐÄVlog content producer and printer expert Ben Bridges.

Here, we help you decide which option is best for your needs.

You should buy a printer if…

1. You print a lotÌý

If you print lots of documents over the course of a year, when you work out the costs of your printer, ink and paper, you’ll probably save money overall by printing at home.Ìý

For example, we calculated the yearly cost of printing 500 colour pages at home using a Canon Pixma TS6360a (including ink and paper costs) and compared that with printing at Officeworks. The Canon comes to $143 in total, while Officeworks charges $375 for the same amount, which is more than the combined RRP, printing and paper costs of the TS6360a.

Of course, the exact costs will vary depending on the type and price of your printer, which is why we always recommend that you think about your printing needs before buying one.Ìý

“Everyone needs to look at their own usage,” says Ben.

You can also look at the cost-per-page figures on our printer reviews to get an idea of at-home printing costs compared with printing at Officeworks, bearing in mind that Officeworks will print A4 black-and-white 80gsm prints for 8c a page. (For the full list of printing options, see Officeworks’ .)Ìý

That said, if you had a one-off 300-page project you needed to print, you might find it quicker and easier to do this at a professional printers.Ìý

“A professional printer (including Officeworks) would be better because they can also handle the covers and binding, which could be difficult at home,” says Steve Duncombe, ÌÇÐÄVlog’s technology editor.Ìý

ÌÇÐÄVlog tip: Can’t decide between a mono, inkjet or laser printer? It helps to work out what you need the printer for. Our guide to buying a printer includes a list of questions you should ask yourself before heading to the checkout.

2. You value convenience

Not everyone wants to spend time and money travelling to and from their nearest store whenever they need to print something. And given the piecemeal way most of us print, a couple of pages every other day equals a lot of trips.Ìý

And despite the fact that many Officeworks stores are open until midnight, most parents would probably prefer to print their child’s school project (which has, of course, been left till the last minute) in the privacy of their own home, instead of rushing out at 11.30pm in their PJs, USB stick in hand.Ìý

In contrast, printing at home is instantaneous and certainly more convenient – especially if you don’t live near an Officeworks or similar print shop.Ìý

“There is certainly a convenience factor to having a printer at home, even for occasional printouts of various text or graphics pages and photos,” says Steve.Ìý

3. You just want one

Fair enough.

You should print at Officeworks if…

1. You don’t print very much, very oftenÌý

If you rarely need to print, popping to your nearest Officeworks to print the odd A4 document every couple of months will generally work out cheaper in the long run.

But Ben says there are ways to lower the costs of printing at home if you’re a casual printer.

“If you don’t print much, but still want the occasional letter, consider a mono laser printer,” he says. “These are generally cheaper than colour printers and are economical on ink.

“If you need to scan or copy, choose a multifunction printer. And if you want any casual colour prints, it’s probably cheaper to go with an inkjet than a colour laser – especially if you ever want a quick photo-paper print of the grandchildren to stick on the fridge.”Ìý

2. You want to print photos

The popularity of photo book services is on the rise, but many people still like to have prints of their happy snaps.Ìý

And while an inkjet is the best type of printer to print photos at home, “you really need to use ‘photo ink’ if you don’t want them to fade to yellow,” says Ben.Ìý

“But not many people are going to keep photo magenta and photo cyan cartridges as well as the standard ones.”

Which is why it’s usually better to print photos at Officeworks or another professional printing service than at home.Ìý

3. You need something professionally printed

If you need to print things for professional use, or need to print anything larger than A4, you can’t expect the same quality from any home printer that you can get from a professional service.Ìý

“It’s not just the print quality, it’s the paper too,” says Ben. “Then there are considerations like printing up to the edge of the paper, or printing on A3.

“For anything you want to look professional, Officeworks or a professional printer will be worthwhile.”

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