The internet is an essential service but the cost of entry can get pretty steep. A router alone can cost well over $500, depending on your home network needs.

What happens if you鈥檙e setting up a new house or replacing a router that鈥檚 reached the end of its life? Don鈥檛 bust out the second mortgage calculator just yet. There are some solid, affordable wireless routers available.

They may not be the fastest or have the best performance for data-hungry households, but these budget routers can still deliver good internet speeds and stability at an affordable price.

糖心Vlog router reviews are free to read as part of a paid partnership with NBN Co. All 糖心Vlog testing and reviews are conducted independently by experts.

Bandwidth vs speed in budget routers

Bandwidth is one of the main limitations that you鈥檒l probably encounter with a budget router. It鈥檚 important to understand what it means as this may affect your home network performance.

When internet service providers (ISPs) and the National Broadband Network (NBN) talk about internet speeds, they really mean download speeds and bandwidth. Using a 500Mbps plan as an example, this means:

• Speed: A single device (e.g. a laptop) can reach download speeds of 500Mbps if nothing else is connected and active on the network.
• Bandwidth: 500Mbps worth of data to be shared between all of the devices that are connected and active at the same.

So, if four devices are connected to your 500Mbps network at the same time, each one can access 125Mbps download speed. The ins and outs are a bit more complex but that鈥檚 the gist.

Modern budget routers are usually quite good at delivering a fast, stable connection to a single device (assuming you have a high-speed plan). Bandwidth can become a bit of an issue when you start connecting a lot of devices.

Most have enough bandwidth requirements for a handful of devices used by a typical family, like smart TVs, phones laptops and maybe a few smart appliances including cameras and smart lights.

But these routers start to struggle under the weight of a busy network with lots of devices demanding high-speed connections at the same time. We鈥檙e talking multiple devices streaming 4K video, lots of online gamers and people transferring large files while working from home.

Our performance test includes a multi-client assessment for scenarios like these. So, if you live in a bandwidth-heavy household, check these results in our review.

Budget router limitations

Budget routers tend to limit the bells and whistles in order to keep costs down, which can impact performance, depending on your needs. For example, they don鈥檛 tend to perform very well over long distances or through obstructions like walls, floors and other objects around the house.

Features and functions are usually pretty limited compared to more expensive models and most don鈥檛 have tri-band support. This means budget routers are limited to the 2.4 and 5GHz networks, while higher-end options can connect to the superfast 6Ghz wireless band.

The best wireless routers on a budget revealed

These Wi-Fi 7 wireless routers offer the best bang for your buck. Note that all three fell just short of earning a 糖心Vlog recommendation.

TP-Link Archer BE230

• 糖心Vlog Expert Rating: 71%
• Price: $197
• Performance score: 66%
• Parental controls score: 80%

TP-Link鈥檚 Archer BE230 isn鈥檛 exactly the fastest kid on the block. But you鈥檇 be hard pressed to find another router that performs this well for less than $200.

This “little router that could” is more than capable of handling typical day-to-day tasks for smaller households of about two to four people. Video streaming, online gaming, general web browsing and so on shouldn鈥檛 cause any problems.

Speeds and stability are consistently good (74%) when multiple devices are connected and active. You can jump on Fortnite while someone else is streaming 4K video on the TV and another person is doom-scrolling TikTok without issues like lag, dropouts or buffering.

But it鈥檚 not that great at maintaining a strong signal through obstructions (45%). Things like walls, windows, floors and other objects will impact speed and stability, so this may not be the best wireless router for larger homes.

Read the full TP-Link Archer BE230 review.

TP-Link Archer BE400

• 糖心Vlog Expert Rating: 71%
• Price: $299
• Performance score: 69%
• Parental controls score: 80%

Need a little more speed without breaking the bank? If TP-Link鈥檚 Archer BE230 doesn鈥檛 have quite enough grunt for your needs, take a look at its big brother 鈥� the BE400.

Specifications and performance results are almost identical to the BE230, but the extra $100 does deliver a decent performance boost on the 5GHz band. It claims to be twice as fast as the BE230, and it did indeed deliver better results during our single device data transfer test.

It also maintains a much stronger signal through obstructions (54%) and should be a good option for medium-sized households working on a budget. Though it鈥檚 still worth looking into a simple mesh network or Wi-Fi repeater if this router can鈥檛 quite broadcast to every corner of the house.

Read the full TP-Link Archer BE400 review.

Asus RT-BE58U

• 糖心Vlog Expert Rating: 69%
• Price: $299
• Performance score: 63%
• Parental controls score: 80%

As far as performance goes, this Asus router falls a little short of the TP-Link models above. However, it鈥檚 still a solid performer that may be worth picking up during a decent sale.

Speeds are OK across the board and it does a good job of retaining a stable connection when multiple devices are online (73%). Though performance really takes a hit when the Wi-Fi signal encounters obstructions (45%), limiting its usefulness to apartments or small properties, rather than large homes.

Built-in support for Asus鈥檚 proprietary mesh network technology, AiMesh, may also be useful if you鈥檙e setting up a mesh system using Asus equipment. Home networks are easier to configure if you stay in a brand鈥檚 ecosystem.

But in that case, you鈥檙e better off saving a little more money for the far superior Asus RT-BE88U. It earned a 糖心Vlog recommendation but with a recommended retail price of $599, it鈥檚 not what you鈥檇 call budget.

Read the full Asus RT-BE58U review.

The post Best budget wireless routers in our test appeared first on 糖心Vlog.

Think about how many devices connect to the internet at home. Your phone, TV and laptop, not to mention smart appliances including lightbulbs, security cameras and maybe even a washing machine. There are a lot of links in the networking chain that can cause problems which don鈥檛 involve the NBN or your ISP whatsoever.

Our home networking expert Elias Plastiras has some quick tips that can help troubleshoot issues and improve Wi-Fi speeds at home. Give these a try before getting in touch with your ISP.

• Understanding your home network
• How to check internet issues at home
• Troubleshooting tips for your home network

Understanding your home network

A typical home uses a modem and router to connect to the internet.

• Modem: bridges the connection between the outside internet line and your home via a wall socket, not unlike a landline phone.
• Router: broadcasts and distributes the internet throughout your home via wired (ethernet) or wireless (Wi-Fi) signals.

You can also use all-in-one units called modem-routers.

These days, many NBN connections use a Network Termination Device (NTD 鈥� sometimes called an NBN connection box or NBN connection device), which replaces the modem. This is supplied by NBN Co. for free and though the appearance can vary depending on your connection type, functionality is the same.

A standalone router is still needed if your home uses an NTD.

How to check internet issues at home

Outages aren鈥檛 always the problem, but they do happen. Ask yourself these questions and run through the troubleshooting steps before you dive into your home network.

Is it a peak period?

Because there鈥檚 only so much internet to go around, speeds fluctuate based on network traffic in your area. They decrease as more homes come online and increase when people log off.

Peak periods are windows when the largest number of users are online at home. These are typically a few hours before and after a standard work day (9am to 5pm).

During these times, your network will fall a bit below the advertised download speeds. ISPs call these 鈥渢ypical evening speeds鈥� and they鈥檙e not indicative of an internet issue, they鈥檙e simply the natural result of increased demand.

For example, you may have an NBN plan that promises 100 megabit per second (Mbps) download speeds, with typical evening speeds around 85Mbps. So, there鈥檚 nothing to worry about when your internet is a bit slower from around 6鈥�9pm, annoying as it may be.

Is there an outage?

A full internet blackout may be the result of an outage in your area. You can check the network status by entering your address at your ISP鈥檚 website or the .

Most households have at least one mobile device capable of connecting to a 4G or 5G network, which you can use to check your network status. Alternatively, ask a neighbour or contact a family member who may be able to look for you.

The NBN checker won鈥檛 work if you鈥檙e using another internet service, such as Starlink.

Is it a problem at the other end?

There鈥檚 always a chance that your internet connection isn鈥檛 to blame. Websites and online services can run into problems as well and when they do, things can slow down or stop working entirely at your end.

 鈥淎 speed test can help identify whether it鈥檚 an issue with your network or theirs,鈥� Elias explains. 鈥淚t鈥檚 a simple way to check your download and upload speeds at home and whether they鈥檙e performing as advertised.鈥�

To run a Wi-Fi speed test on a laptop or smartphone:

1. Disconnect all other active devices from the network. Make sure no one is secretly streaming in another room.
2. Move your phone or laptop as close as possible to your wireless router to ensure a clear line of sight.
3. Connect to the fastest band, which will be 5 or 6GHz (you can switch networks in the device鈥檚 network settings).
4. Go to in the device鈥檚 web browser and click 鈥楪o鈥� to run the test. When it鈥檚 finished, note the download and upload speeds and compare them to those advertised on your plan.

Repeat this test on a handful of smartphones, tablets and computers connected to your home network. Don鈥檛 worry about other smart devices such as your TV, lightbulbs and cameras.

If the results are within about 10Mbps of your plan鈥檚 advertised speeds then the service provider is probably experiencing issues, not you. But if your speeds are falling well below that point, e.g. 60Mbps on a 100Mbps plan, and you鈥檙e outside a peak traffic window, then you may have a problem at home.

鈥淭here could be problems with the NBN or your ISP,鈥� says Elias. 鈥淏ut it鈥檚 more than likely an issue with your equipment 鈥� probably an older router that lacks the hardware to deliver faster speeds.鈥�

Troubleshooting tips for your home network

If you’ve ruled out other causes and the signs seem to be pointing to a potential problem at home, try Elias’s troubleshooting tips.

Turn it off and on again

鈥淭his is a classic tip for a reason, it really can work,鈥� explains Elias. 鈥淢odems, NTDs and routers are usually turned on 24 hours a day, seven days a week and sometimes they just need a quick nap.鈥�

Turn off your modem, router, modem-router and NTD (the exact devices will vary depending on your network setup) for five to ten minutes then turn them back on. This triggers a full power cycle which should clear out lingering issues that are slowing down the network.

Reposition your router

鈥淭hink of your router like a radio,鈥� says Elias. 鈥測ou probably wouldn鈥檛 shove it under a desk or in a cupboard because the broadcast would start to cut out and sound bad.鈥�

鈥淎 wireless router needs to be in a nice open space with as clear a line of sight as possible to get the best coverage. Tucking it away in an inconspicuous spot can really reduce the broadcast range.鈥�

Connect to a better band

Wi-Fi is broadcast on up to three bands, which are measured in gigahertz (GHz). These are 2.4, 5 and 6GHz. Bands at the lower end of the spectrum have slower speeds/less bandwidth but greater range (meaning they can reach further distances), which inverts as bands move up the spectrum.

Wireless routers will usually assign the most appropriate band to each device on your network, to deliver the best performance. But you can rotate through them in the network settings of your devices which may improve performance.

Elias says that this can also relieve network congestion. 鈥淲hen lots of devices are connected to one band, there鈥檚 less data to go around which will slow things down. Spreading them across all available bands on your network can help clear things up.鈥�

Update your equipment

Older wireless routers don鈥檛 have the firmware or hardware that you need for high-speed/high-bandwidth plans. This mostly comes down to the Wi-Fi version, which is basically the firmware that keeps your router running. It鈥檚 also a good way to gauge the age of your router.

Older wireless routers could be suitable for smaller households, but may not be able to handle multiple concurrent users. Larger households, and those with lots of smart appliances, should consider a router that can effectively distribute data to many devices at the same time.

鈥淔amilies and share houses can really benefit from a high-speed plan with plenty of bandwidth to go around, and a wireless router to match鈥� says Elias. 鈥淟ook for routers that score well in the multi-client part of our performance test, because they don鈥檛 struggle with lots of network traffic.鈥�

鈥淚t鈥檚 best to upgrade to a Wi-Fi 6, 6E or 7 router if you鈥檙e on a high-speed plan鈥� he adds. 鈥淣ot only are they suitable for the fastest NBN plans available to consumers, they are also more likely to have the hardware to match your high-speed networking needs.鈥�

鈥淔or example,a Wi-Fi 7 router will more than likely have connection ports capable of transferring the substantial amount of data required for gigabit internet.鈥�

鈥淵ou can probably get away with using a Wi-Fi 5 router if you鈥檙e on a slower plan and don鈥檛 need a lot of bandwidth,鈥� he adds. 鈥淏ut older equipment like this introduces security risks as manufacturers stop rolling out security patches after a while, which can leave your network vulnerable.鈥�

Double check your devices

Wi-Fi versions are a two-way street. Your phone, laptop, TV and other devices need to be running a Wi-Fi version that matches (or exceeds) your router鈥檚 speeds for the best performance.

 鈥淟ike your router, the Wi-Fi version in your device plays a key role in determining its peak download speeds,鈥� he says. 鈥淵ou鈥檙e not going to get superfast download speeds on a laptop that was built before ISPs made these plans available to consumers. A model from the Wi-Fi 3 era probably wasn’t built with gigabit plans in mind.鈥�

Check the product specifications to find out the Wi-Fi version. Anything running Wi-Fi 4 or older can鈥檛 tap into the high-speed plans and should be upgraded to a device with Wi-Fi 6 or better.

Upgrade your plan

Maybe your internet plan is just slow? Or maybe you have more devices and concurrent users than your current plan can handle? In either case, a speed/bandwidth upgrade may just be the ticket, according to Elias.

 鈥淵our bandwidth needs are probably greater than you realise, especially if more than two people are streaming video or playing games online at the same time, for example,鈥� he says.

If things feel slow, video streaming quality keeps dipping or devices keep dropping out, consider upgrading to the next fastest plan. This costs a bit more but it鈥檒l save you some major headaches.鈥�

Just make sure you have an NBN connection that supports the increased speeds. You may need to apply for a fibre upgrade if your home still uses the old copper network.

Install repeaters/set up a mesh network

鈥淚nternet speeds and bandwidth decrease as you move further away from your router,鈥� explains Elias. 鈥淵ou need to be on the 5 or 6GHz band and positioned as close as possible to get the best speeds.鈥�

So what happens if you鈥檙e trying to get online on the other side of the house or upstairs, through thick walls and floors? That鈥檚 where Wi-Fi repeaters and mesh networks come into play.

Repeaters are relay points that boost a weak signal in the immediate vicinity. They鈥檙e handy for improving a Wi-Fi connection in a single room but may not be practical to cover a whole house.

Mesh networks use a series of nodes to build a Wi-Fi dome of sorts around the home. They can be an easy solution for improving performance in every corner of the property. But they鈥檙e a bit harder to set up and usually cost more than one or two repeaters.

Tweak the settings

Your last port of call is to adjust your router鈥檚 settings. There are plenty of features that can automatically improve speed and stability and some more advanced options open to people who aren’t afraid to dig a little deeper into the tech.

• Quality of service: Automatically allocates bandwidth based on the device and its needs at the time. A TV streaming video in 4K will get more bandwidth than a phone watching the same content in high-definition, for example. This is a very common feature.
• Bandwidth throttling/management: Allows you to manually set a bandwidth limit for each device on the network. Not quite as common as quality of service and may be a bit tricky for novices.
• Band steering: The router will automatically identify and allocate the optimal band for the connected device based on bandwidth requirements and network congestion. Similar to quality of service but the router shifts bands rather than adjusting bandwidth specifically.
• MU-MIMO: Stand for 鈥渕ulti-user multiple-input multiple-output鈥�. This function automatically allocates individual data streams (bandwidth) to multiple active devices in parallel, rather than connecting each to a single Wi-Fi broadcast on each band. This helps improve performance and stability and relieves congestion as devices aren鈥檛 鈥渃ompeting鈥� for bandwidth on a single band.
• Multi-link operation (MLO): Allows supported MLO devices to use all available bands on the network at the same time to improve stability. Requires Wi-Fi 7.
• Channel width adjustment: Measured in megahertz (MHz), this is a granular approach to avoiding network congestion. Manually adjusting the frequency range (channel width) within each band can help improve stability and performance depending on the device. It鈥檚 an advanced setting that you鈥檒l only find on some mid- to high-end routers.

The post Common Wi-Fi problems and how to fix them appeared first on 糖心Vlog.

We rank NBN plans based on real-world performance 鈥� not just marketing claims 鈥� so you can see which ones actually deliver their advertised speeds.

Below is our shortlist of the top performing plans right now, using data from the ACCC’s Measuring Broadband Australia program. 

Note that our recommendations don’t factor in plan cost or customer service. For prices and full plan details, we’ve provided links through to the WhistleOut comparison site.

On this page:

• Best NBN plans for meeting claimed speed
• Which NBN plan speed do you need?
• How to change your internet provider
• How much NBN speed and data will you need?

Why we've partnered with WhistleOut

We've partnered with search engine WhistleOut to help you find and buy the right plan for you.  While we make money if you buy through WhistleOut, this doesn't influence our rankings. 100% of the money we make goes straight back into our nonprofit mission.

Best NBN plans for meeting claimed speed

We rank fixed-line fibre to the node (FTTN), fibre to the premises (FTTP) and cable (HFC) NBN plans on whether they’re meeting their claimed speed based on the ACCC’s broadband monitoring results. 

If your NBN connection technology isn’t represented here (such as FTTC, fixed wireless or Sky Muster satellite), that’s because the range of volunteers on the ACCC’s program doesn’t provide enough data on that NBN technology for us to confidently rank providers against each other. 

These are the best scorers from the most recent data for standard (NBN 50), fast (NBN 500) and super fast (NBN 750) home plans. All these plans have a 糖心Vlog Expert Rating of 80% or more. This overall score is made up of download score and upload score performance, evenly weighted.  

Any tied results for each reporting period are represented by identical numbers in the first column. Where there are fewer than three results, this is because the ACCC’s data is limited for that plan type.

Each plan also indicates its upload speed, such as 100/20, where 100 is the maximum wholesale download speed (megabits per second) and 20 is the upload speed.

For results for all the plans we’ve scored, head to our full coverage of the ACCC’s broadband provider performance program.

Fibre to the Node (FTTN)

Data is not available for for FTTN fast (NBN 250) plans.

Fibre to the Premises (FTTP)

HFC (Cable)

Which type of NBN technology do you have?

If you aren’t sure what technology you have, to find out what connection type is available at your premises.

The points below describe the three fixed-line NBN technologies we have ACCC measuring data for: FTTP, FTTN and HFC.

We hope to add fibre to the curb, fixed wireless and satellite plans to this list as the ACCC expands its monitoring program.

Fibre to the premises (FTTP)

• Outside your premises: Fibre cable to a street cabinet, then more fibre to your house.
• Inside your premises: Usually one box installed on the outside of your house, two side-by-side wall-mounted boxes inside.
• Socket: Ethernet (doesn’t use the old phone wall sockets in your house).

Fibre to the node (FTTN)

• Outside your premises: Fibre to a street cabinet, then pre-existing copper lines to your house. The longer the copper portion of the connection, the less fast and reliable your connection may be. Copper is less effective for data transfer than fibre optic, and pre-existing copper cabling might be in bad shape, leading to further signal loss or unreliability. NBN Co is usually responsible for the copper cabling on public land.
• Inside your premises: Looks similar to an ADSL modem inside your house. You’re responsible for the copper cabling within your premises.
• Socket: Uses your home’s pre-existing phone wall sockets. The socket might be upgraded by an NBN technician during or after installation, but don’t count on it.

HFC (Cable)

• Outside your premises: Fibre to an HFC node near your premises, then coaxial cabling the rest of the way, like cable TV or a pre-NBN cable internet connection.
• Inside your premises: Needs a pre-existing coaxial cable (for the above) in your premises or a new installation if necessary. If you have Foxtel, the installing NBN technician should provide you with a signal splitter so that your NBN and cable TV connections connect to the same wall port. Don’t use this splitter if you don’t have a cable TV connection or need it for other purposes, as it can reportedly cause signal stability problems in some instances.
• Socket: The inside box is not wall mounted and doesn’t connect to old phone wall sockets. You’ll need to connect a separate router to this box, either supplied by your provider or by yourself, to connect multiple devices and create a Wi-Fi network.

Which NBN plan speed do you need?

NBN speed tiers

We only report on these speed tiers because the ACCC’s broadband monitoring program doesn’t provide enough data on other tiers for us to rank products against each other.

Below is the full list of fixed-line NBN speed tiers.

Note that you’ll only be eligible for certain plans if your connection meets the requirements (see below to find out the fastest NBN speed you can buy).

What’s the fastest NBN speed you can buy?

Here’s a general indication of the maximum speed a provider might consider selling to you, depending on your connection type.

• Fibre to the node (FTTN) 鈥� Home Fast, but some providers won’t go above Home Standard without testing your connection first, or at all.
• Fibre to the building (FTTB) 鈥� Home Fast.
• Fibre to the curb (FTTC) 鈥� Home Fast, but NBN Co hopes to increase it to Home Superfast or Ultrafast soon.
• Fibre to the premises (FTTP) 鈥� Home Ultrafast.
• Hybrid fibre coaxial (HFC) 鈥� Home Ultrafast, but NBN Co states no more than 750Mbps sustained download speeds for HFC, with short bursts of up to nearly 1Gbps.

How to change your internet provider

If you’re not on a contract

If you’re not on a contract, changing providers should be as easy as contacting your new provider and signing up to an NBN plan. You can do this online, by phone, or sometimes instore, depending on which provider you’re signing up to.

Your new NBN provider will contact your old one and make the switch. Your old plan will be cancelled at the end of your current billing month and your new plan will start around the same time. 

There may be some overlap in billing periods between the two providers, but you should be notified of the date your new billing period will start. There are often additional charges when signing up to a new provider, such as an activation fee or hardware costs.

If you’re on a contract

If you’re still within the term of a broadband contract, you’ll need to ask your current provider what the cancellation process is. You may have to pay out all or part of your current contract and you may need to pay a termination fee.

Aside from this, it’s the same process as for those who are off contract.

How much NBN speed and data will you need?

NBN plans have two factors to consider: speed/bandwidth, which is measured in megabits per second (Mbps), and the amount of data you can download, measured in gigabytes (GB) or terabytes (TB).

Speed

To get an idea of how much speed you need, think of how many devices in your house use the internet at the same time. If it’s just one or two screens streaming Netflix, then you could get by with a 50/20 (Home Standard) or possibly even a 25/10 (Home Basic 2) plan.

If you have multiple users, such as households with large families or share houses, you may need a 100/40 or 100/20 plan (Home Fast). 

Upload bandwidth is an important consideration for some people. If you or others in your home rely on cloud storage for large files or upload a lot of media, then 20Mbps is an advisable starting point, such as with a Home Standard or Home Fast plan.

糖心Vlog tip: It’s usually easier to increase your plan’s speed than decrease it once you’ve signed up, so it might be a good idea to start low and go up if you need it. Check with a service representative before you sign up if you’ll incur additional fees for this. Or sign up to a no-contract plan, which should let you change your cap on a monthly basis as needed.

Data cap

Your current provider should offer a way to check your monthly download amounts online. Look over the last few months to get an idea of your maximum data usage per month.

Our advice? Go with something a little higher than your current usage, as it may fluctuate or increase over time, but you don’t necessarily need a 500GB or unlimited plan, even though these are fast becoming the norm.

The post Best NBN plans for speed appeared first on 糖心Vlog.

There鈥檚 probably a smart TV, a phone or two and maybe a laptop or an ipad. And then there may be smart lights and security cameras that need to be online 24/7 to function. 

Homes are getting pretty bandwidth-hungry these days and they need the equipment to match. There are plenty of high-speed wireless routers on the market but they鈥檙e not all equipped to handle a home network with lots of traffic.

So, we鈥檝e picked three routers best-suited to these environments. This includes one that has very good long-range signal stability for two-storey homes, or those that are simply very large.

We’ll start with some explainers on speed and bandwidth. If you already know all about that, skip to our list of the best routers for families and share houses.

糖心Vlog router reviews are free to read as part of a paid partnership with NBN Co. All 糖心Vlog testing and reviews are conducted independently by experts.

• Bandwidth vs speed on the NBN
• Understanding bands
• Tools to help busy networks
• The best routers for families and share houses

Bandwidth vs speed on the NBN

Router manufacturers and internet service providers (ISPs) love to advertise download speeds. But bandwidth rarely gets the coverage it deserves, even though it鈥檚 just as important, especially for families and sharehouses.

But what exactly is bandwidth and why is it essential for bigger households?

When a single device, like a laptop or smartphone, is online, it can access all of the available bandwidth, which in turn allows it to have the highest possible download speeds. As more devices connect, your network automatically shares out the available data across the devices.

ISPs advertise speeds in megabits per second (Mbps). The higher the number, the greater the download speed and bandwidth. For example, 500/50 equals 500Mbps download and 50Mbps upload.

So, let鈥檚 say you have a 500Mbps download plan on the National Broadband Network (NBN), as well as a wireless router and devices that can access those speeds. If one device, like a laptop, is connected, it can tap into the maximum available bandwidth for the best possible speeds which is 500Mbps in this case.

But the router needs to distribute the available data as more devices come online. Everyone gets a piece of the bandwidth at reduced download speeds across the board.

So if, for example, four devices connect to the 500Mbps plan, each can access 125Mbps download speed. It鈥檚 a little more complicated than that and bandwidth isn鈥檛 usually distributed this cleanly, but you get the idea.

This is why larger households can really benefit from a high speed plan with a wireless router to match. The good news is most NBN plans have enough bandwidth for the average household, but there are slower plans that may not be suitable. This is when issues like lag, buffering and drop-outs can occur.

Understand the band (not just the bandwidth)

Bandwidth isn鈥檛 the only important link in the chain. Wi-Fi signals are transmitted on specific frequencies called bands, not unlike a radio. Yes, bands, but not bandwidth. They鈥檙e two different things with similar names 鈥� nice and confusing.

Bands are measured in gigahertz (GHz). Lower bands have slower speeds but greater range (broadcast distance). Speeds increase and range reduces as bands increase. Consumer-grade home Wi-Fi equipment uses the 2.4, 5 and 6GHz spectrums, with 6GHz having the best performance (fastest speeds) but shortest range.

But not all routers and devices can access the 6GHz band as it鈥檚 a relatively recent development in consumer equipment. There are two types of router available:

• Dual-band: uses 2.4 and 5GHz
• Tri-band: uses 2.4, 5 and 6GHz

A dual-band router cannot broadcast on the 6GHz frequency.

Any Wi-Fi-enabled device, including TVs, laptops and smart lights, can connect to the 2.4GHz band. Most devices also work with 5GHz, while 6GHz compatibility isn鈥檛 as common.

Devices on the network can slow down, stutter or drop out if there鈥檚 too much traffic on a particular band. You can switch between them in the device鈥檚 network settings as routers treat each band as its own network.

For example, smart appliances and similar devices like bulbs, security cameras and washing machines typically prefer the 2.4GHz band as they don鈥檛 require the higher bandwidth or speeds that 5 and 6GHz provide. But this means the 2.4GHz band can get quite congested if you鈥檙e living in a particularly tech-heavy place, so it鈥檚 best to connect phones, laptops and TVs to the 5 or 6GHz bands.

This is where tri-band routers are handy for families or sharehouses. You can connect supported devices to the 6GHz network, freeing up space on the other two bands, which improves overall performance and stability.

Tools to help busy networks

The default settings on most modern routers should be able to handle a busy network in a typical home. But you should still understand the tools and settings that can help optimise and stabilise your Wi-Fi network.

While some of these features operate automatically, you may need to turn them on in the settings. Others are a bit more advanced and require manual input.

• Quality of service: This feature automatically allocates bandwidth based on the device and its needs at the time. A TV streaming video in 4K will get more bandwidth than a phone watching the same content in high-definition, for example. This is a very common feature.
• Band steering: The router can automatically identify and allocate the optimal band for the connected device based on bandwidth requirements and network congestion. Similar to quality of service but the router shifts bands rather than adjusting bandwidth specifically.
• MU-MIMO: stand for 鈥渕ulti-user multiple-input multiple-output鈥�. This feature automatically allocates individual data streams (bandwidth) to multiple active devices in parallel, rather than connecting each to a single Wi-Fi broadcast on each band. This helps improve performance and stability and relieves congestion as devices aren鈥檛 鈥渃ompeting鈥� for bandwidth on a single band.
• Multi-link operation (MLO): allows supported MLO devices to use all available bands on the network at the same time to improve stability. Requires Wi-Fi 7.

Advanced settings for the techy types include:

• Bandwidth throttling/management: Allows you to manually set a bandwidth limit for each device on the network. Not quite as common as quality of service and may be a bit tricky for novices.
• Channel width adjustment: measured in megahertz (MHz). This is a granular approach to avoiding network congestion. Manually adjusting the frequency range (channel width) within each band can help improve stability and performance depending on the device. It鈥檚 an advanced setting that you鈥檒l only find on some mid- to high-end routers.

The best routers for families and share houses

These routers will give you the best performance for busy networks. We鈥檝e picked the top model for multiple users, the router with the best range for larger properties and the ideal option for homes looking for great performance on a budget.

TP-Link Archer BE550 鈥� Best for busy networks

• 糖心Vlog Expert Rating: 81%
• Price: $499
• Single and multi-client performance scores: 90/96%
• Obstructed range score: 61%
• Parental controls score: 80%

Keen to kick back and stream Stranger Things in 4K? Go for it. Does your partner want to watch Heated Rivalry on their laptop in the next room at the same time? No problem. Is everyone else gaming online while security cameras and smart doorbells keep an eye on things out the front? That鈥檚 all fine if you’ve got this router.

Why? Because the Archer BE550 blew every other wireless router out of the water in our multi-client (user) test. Performance in this area is excellent (96%), with no signs of slow-down, buffering, dropouts and other annoying internet issues.

It鈥檚 got all the fixings to help manage network congestion and allocate bandwidth for better performance on certain devices. There鈥檚 tri-band broadcasting, MU-MIMO and MLO support to improve stability and good old band steering.

Now this may sound a bit techy and intimidating, but TP-Link has made a fairly user-friendly router. Settings are easy to navigate, including parental controls which help to keep harmful or mature content away from younger eyes.

The only real drawback is its performance over long range or through obstructions like walls, windows and floors. Speeds and stability can dip a bit (61%) in these situations, which isn鈥檛 uncommon, but still worth keeping in mind if you regularly have more than four people on the internet at the same time.

Read the full TP-Link Archer BE550 review.

Netgear RS600 鈥� Best long-range performance

• 糖心Vlog Expert Rating: 74%
• Price: $799
• Single and multi-client performance scores: 95/97%
• Obstructed range score: 82%
• Parental controls score: 32%

Most routers in our test earned poor to OK results in our long-distance testing 鈥� but not the RS600. Netgear鈥檚 router is very good (82%) at keeping a stable connection from one end of the house to the other, even when passing through walls, doors and up to the second floor.

Though multi-user speeds don鈥檛 quite match the superfast Archer BE550 above, the RS600 is still fast and capable of concurrent video streaming, gaming and browsing. It鈥檚 really worth considering if you live in a medium- to large-sized property.

However, it鈥檚 not the easiest router to use and neither is it entirely family friendly. The app is fairly limited and pretty glitchy, and most of the useful security and parental controls are locked behind a monthly paywall.

It鈥檚 a shame, because there鈥檚 a lot to like about this router. But adding a monthly fee to an already expensive router feels a tad greedy, so just be aware that you鈥檒l have to pay extra to get the most out of this router.

Read the full Netgear RS600 review.

TP-Link Archer BE230 鈥� Best bang for your buck

• 糖心Vlog Expert Rating: 71%
• Price: $197
• Single and multi-client performance scores: 75/74%
• Obstructed range score: 45%
• Parental controls score: 80%

Families and sharehouses will get a lot of mileage out of the Archer BE230. It may not sit among the top performers in our test, but it鈥檚 far and away the best value for money.

Wi-Fi 7 support and a 2.5 gigabit WAN port can supply plenty of bandwidth across multiple users and fast download speeds for a single device. Performance remains remarkably consistent whether one or more users are connected and active at the same time, with good results (75% and 74%) in these tests.

The Archer BE230 is a novice-friendly router as well and though some features and settings come with a bit of a learning curve, the average user shouldn鈥檛 have much trouble navigating the interface. Parental controls are among the best in our test (80%) and they鈥檙e pretty easy to set up and navigate.

But the budget price tag does bring some limitations. Speeds and stability can get a bit spotty over longer distances and through obstructions like walls, floors and windows. It doesn鈥檛 support the fastest 6GHz band either, which may also cause some congestion issues in particularly packed households.

Read the full TP-Link Archer BE230 review.

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Wireless router manufacturers make all sorts of claims about speed, stability and general performance but these don鈥檛 always stack up in the real world. They鈥檙e technically accurate, sure, but not entirely reflective of what you’ll get from a typical home setup.

Some models are very good at maintaining a high-speed connection on a single device but struggle when multiple people get online. Others are fine for smaller properties but struggle over long distances with obstructions like walls, windows and floors across multiple stories.

Then there are the routers that perform brilliantly but may be overkill for the average family. Though these are great, your home network might not require a router that costs over $500.

To help you make the right decision, 糖心Vlog experts tested twelve wireless routers that range from $200 to $600. These are the top performing and most affordable models that aren鈥檛 likely to drop out when you鈥檙e 鈥渨orking from home鈥� and watching Married at First Sight on the toilet.

糖心Vlog router reviews are free to read as part of a paid partnership with NBN Co. All 糖心Vlog testing and reviews are conducted independently by experts.

How does Wi-Fi work?

Wi-Fi is pretty complicated when you really get into the weeds, but most of us only need to understand two things when shopping around for a router: Wi-Fi bands and Wi-Fi versions.

Wi-Fi bands

This one is pretty straightforward. Bands are frequencies used to distribute a Wi-Fi signal, measured in gigahertz (GHz), not unlike radio waves.

Bands at the lower end of the spectrum have slower speeds/less bandwidth but greater range, which inverts as bands move up the spectrum. The three main bands on consumer-grade routers are 2.4, 5 and 6GHz.

The 2.4Ghz band is slower and has less bandwidth but greater range. 5GHz is much faster but can鈥檛 travel as far and may have trouble with obstructions such as walls or doors. Dual-band routers can connect to 2.4 and 5GHz bands while tri-band can also access 6GHz for maximum performance.

Wi-Fi versions

Wireless routers use firmware that adheres to the global Wi-Fi standard. This standard specifies how Wi-Fi-enabled devices perform, connect to the internet and talk to each other. Things would be a mess without this standard as it more or less ensures that consumer-grade devices can work together without issue.

Every few years, the standard is updated to improve speeds/bandwidth, security and overall performance as new routers are released. When the update is complete, a new version of Wi-Fi is released to manufacturers who install it in their Wi-Fi-enabled devices, including routers. Versions are bound to the hardware, so you can鈥檛 upgrade your router to a newer Wi-Fi version at home.

The latest version is WiFi 7 (2024) which succeeds Wi-Fi 5 (2013), Wi-Fi 6 (2019) and Wi-Fi 6E (2021). New releases are backwards compatible with devices running older Wi-Fi versions so you鈥檙e not going to get kicked offline when using a Wi-Fi 5 laptop on a Wi-Fi 7 network, for example.

Why is this important? Maximum data transfer speeds (download and uploads) have increased with each version. Older routers running Wi-Fi 5 or earlier can鈥檛 reach the maximum speeds currently available to consumers on the NBN.

This is because routers can only send and receive a certain amount of data at a time. This data is measured in megabits pers second (Mbps) or gigabits per second (Gbps) once the total number of megabits exceeds 1000 (1000 Mbps equals 1 Gbps).

That鈥檚 why you need a router with a Wi-Fi version that matches or exceeds your NBN plan鈥檚 maximum speeds, especially if you鈥檙e eligible for a free speed upgrade. Without one, you may be paying for a plan that you can鈥檛 completely utilise.

All of the routers in this article support Wi-Fi 7 and can access the maximum NBN speeds currently available to consumers on the most expensive plans, which is 2000Mbps download (aka 2Gbps or gigabit internet).

The best wireless routers from our test

TP-Link Archer BE550

• 糖心Vlog Expert Rating: 81%
• Price: $499
• Performance score: 83%
• Parental controls score: 80%

If you鈥檙e prepared to splash some serious cash on a wireless router, consider the Archer BE550. Not only is it the top performer in almost every aspect of our test, it鈥檒l future-proof your home network for years to come.

Single device download speeds are excellent (90%) and our multi-device test delivered results that were unmatched by quite a large margin (96%) compared to the next best router (85%) in this part of the test.

That makes this router an ideal option for larger households with multiple users on a high-bandwidth plan. You can simultaneously stream video in 4K to your heart鈥檚 content, provided you鈥檙e not too far away from the router, as it can have trouble with walls and floors in two-storey houses, even on the 2.4GHz band.

It鈥檚 also quite easy to use with a robust set of parental controls that are easy to set up in the associated app. There鈥檚 really nothing in our results to suggest that this router can鈥檛 suit the needs of all but the most speed/bandwidth hungry households.

Read the full TP-Link Archer BE550 review.

Asus RT-BE88U

• 糖心Vlog Expert Rating: 75%
• Price: $599
• Performance score: 73%
• Parental controls score: 80%

Our home networking expert described this router鈥檚 design in two words 鈥� 鈥減hysically imposing鈥�. Aesthetics don鈥檛 factor into our test but it鈥檚 still worth noting that the RT-BE88U wouldn鈥檛 look out of place in Blade Runner.

But this isn鈥檛 a case of style over substance, because beneath its eye-catching exterior are the guts to match. Asus has built a high-performance router that can help drive a busy network with ease, even though it doesn鈥檛 support the 6GHz band. But like most of the routers we looked at, it鈥檚 not great at dealing with obstructions (57%).

Just to be clear, it does support Wi-Fi 7 so users on gigabit NBN plans can access the speeds they paid for. But it鈥檚 limited to two signal bands 鈥� 2.4 and 5GHz 鈥� whereas most other high-end routers support the third 6GHz band.

In its place is a dedicated Internet of Things (IoT) network designed for smart appliances and similar devices such as lights, security cameras and washing machines. This frees up the other bands for work and entertainment so you鈥檙e far less likely to encounter congestion issues on your phone, laptop, smart TV and so on.

Configuration options run deep, well beyond the needs of the average user if you鈥檙e into that sort of thing. You don鈥檛 need an IT degree to use this router mind you 鈥� you can still get great performance using the recommended settings.

Read the full Asus RT-BE88U review.

The best budget wireless router in our test

TP-Link Archer BE230

• 糖心Vlog Expert Rating: 71%
• Price: $197
• Performance score: 66%
• Parental controls score: 80%

TP-Link鈥檚 Archer BE230 is the best bang-for-your-buck router in our test 鈥� in fact, it’s the cheapest. Despite its low cost, it can maintain good speeds and stability while multiple users are online, making it suitable for families or smaller share houses shopping on a budget.

Though it can鈥檛 beat the blazing speeds of the fastest routers in our test, the Archer BE230  shouldn鈥檛 have any trouble with typical video streaming, online gaming, general web browsing and so on. Performance even remained fairly stable during our multiple user test, which is pretty impressive given the price point.

Harmful content and URL filters are very good, among the best in our test in fact (80%). Settings are extensive and easy to navigate, so even non-techy parents shouldn鈥檛 have much trouble setting up online safety controls.

But range, once again, is pretty poor (45%) when there are walls, windows and other obstructions. It should still work well in an apartment setting or small- to medium-sized homes. Larger properties may want to consider another model with better range results.

Read the full TP-Link Archer BE230 review.

Wireless routers to avoid

While we didn鈥檛 come across any obviously terrible routers in our test, these average performers took out the bottom two places. Generally speaking, you can find better alternatives for similar prices.

Eero 7

• 糖心Vlog Expert Rating: 63%
• Price: $300
• Performance score: 62%
• Parental controls score: 39%

The Eero 7 (and other Eero routers) can connect to a mesh network out of the box which may be pretty appealing for non-techy types looking to improve internet coverage at home. But other features aren鈥檛 easily accessible and its performance isn鈥檛 worth the asking price.

Download and upload speeds are good (70%) when the Eero 7 is connected to a single active device. But it dips down to the slowest router in our test when multiple users jump online.

Signal range is pretty average as well (48%), among the worst in our test. You wouldn鈥檛 want to use the Eero 7 in a multi-story property or older house with thick, double-brick walls.

But the most egregious issue with this router is its paywalled security features and parental controls. While the Eero 7 provides some basic options for free, the full range of functions requires a monthly fee. Granted, Eero isn鈥檛 the only manufacturer to do this, but in our opinion, you shouldn鈥檛 have to pay extra for safe browsing tools after shelling out $300.

And finally, the Eero 7 doesn鈥檛 connect to Wi-Fi 7 by default. Instead, the basic setup that most consumers are likely to use, defaults to the older Wi-Fi 6 and you need to manually switch on Wi-Fi 7 (and WPA3) to access the highest speeds and bandwidth. This is an odd feature given that Wi-Fi versions are backwards compatible.

Read the full Eero 7 review.

D-Link DIR-BE3602

• 糖心Vlog Expert Rating: 65%
• Price: $250
• Performance score: 66%
• Parental controls score: 58%

Yet another router that doesn鈥檛 really rise above mediocrity in all aspects of our tests. Single client (one device) speeds are among the lowest in our test and performance drops even further when multiple devices connect.

Speeds are still OK for downloads (69%) and uploads (68%). But homes with more than two users will probably encounter connection issues if around four or more people are video streaming or gaming at the same time.

Our experts found some settings a bit fiddly to navigate as well. Like the Eero 7, this router also defaults to Wi-Fi 6, so you need to manually switch on Wi-Fi 7 to get the best performance, which is frustrating.

Parental controls are quite limited and often unclear in the settings section of the app. They mostly focus on social media restrictions and aren鈥檛 the easiest tools to use for novices.

Read the full D-Link DIR-BE3602 review.

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On this page:

• How we choose what we test
• How we test wireless routers
• How we test wireless mesh router kits

How we choose what we test

We look for dual-band and tri-band wireless routers and mesh router systems that:

• Are readily available
• Support the latest NBN gateways
• Support the latest Wi-Fi 6, 6E and 7 standards with testing carried out with the router and an additional node unit to create a wireless mesh system.

How we test wireless routers

Our routers are tested in a typical office environment using an internal line. The busiest band is 2.4GHz, with the 5GHz and 6GHz bands being relatively free.

This environment, where there are lots of internet-capable devices such as smartphones, laptops, and smart TVs within range allows us to replicate real-world performance, where the wireless router may be installed in a house, apartment or neighbourhood with plenty of competing devices and wireless networks.

All routers are tested as close to their default configuration as possible, except in cases where the default settings would put the router at an unfair disadvantage (for example, if a router defaulted to Wi-Fi 6 out of the box, we changed it to Wi-Fi 7 to make results comparable, though we note the inappropriate default settings in the bad points). Band-steering (one single network name for all bands) is used in all tests if it鈥檚 the default setting for that router.

Our test covers three key areas:

• Performance (data transfer speed/stability)
• Ease of use
• Parental controls

We also performance test older and new smart devices that support Internet of Things (IoT), such as smart bulbs, security cameras and robot vacuums. We conduct this test because all wireless routers have band-steering enabled, which may cause issues when trying to connect to their preferred Wi-Fi band, such as 2.4GHz.

This aspect of the test isn鈥檛 scored. Instead, we make a note in the bad points if there were any hindrances when installing and connecting IoT devices.

Performance

We conduct three performance assessments; a single-client close range test, a multi-client close range test, and single-client obstructed range test (a “client” is an internet-capable device). Each test sends four parallel streams of data for a duration of one minute and is repeated five times.

The single-client close range test uses a Wi-Fi 7 laptop to assess speed (data transfer) performance. The test sends four parallel streams of data with no obstructions (walls, doors etc), for a duration of one minute at a distance of four metres. The average speed is an indication of how fast the router can send data to one client when no other network activity is present.

The multi-client close range test assesses speed (data transfer) performance to two Wi-Fi 7 laptops at a distance of five metres. This takes place while multiple entertainment, security and IoT devices are active on the same network.

The average speed is an indication of how fast the router can send data to one client when other network activity is present. We also record whether disruptions occur in any other devices on the same network while the test is active.

The single-client obstructed range test uses a Wi-Fi 7 laptop to assess speed (data transfer) performance. The laptop is positioned 15 metres away from the router with typical housing obstructions in between. The average speed is an indication of how fast the router can send data to one client in tough network conditions.

Note: wireless routers that only have one available ethernet port are scored using only one laptop.

Ease of use

Specific test areas are:

• Physical and software setup
• Admin security
• Updating firmware
• User interface clarity and ease of navigation
• Network customisation
• Guest and Internet of Things (IoT) setup and customisation
• Ease of identifying devices connected to the network.

Parental controls

Assesses the range of parental controls, their effectiveness, ease of use when enabling and adjusting content filtering and whether parental controls are free or behind a paywall. We look for the following settings and assess their ease of use for the average user.

• Manual filtering of content
• Age-appropriate filtering
• Scheduling internet access
• Speed limiting of devices
• Manually pausing internet access
• Scheduling Wi-Fi on and off times

Power consumption

Based on the router being active for 10 hours and idle for 14 hours. Active power consumption is recorded with multiple clients streaming content on the network, and a Wi-Fi 7 laptop transferring data from obstructed range approximately 15m away. Annual power consumption costs are calculated at a rate of 40 cents per kilowatt hour.

How we score wireless routers

The 糖心Vlog Expert rating is made up of:

• Performance (60%)
• Ease of use (25%)
• Parental controls (15%)

We recommend wireless routers with a 糖心Vlog expert rating of 75% or more.

How we test wireless mesh router kits

Performance 

For wireless mesh routers, the following tests make up the total performance score.

Speed at close range test: we transfer our data from the NAS to the client over a line-of-sight distance of four metres (considered a best-case scenario). The main node of the mesh kit resides in the lounge room where the NBN connection is fed, and the client sits four metres away.

Speed at long range test: we transfer our data from the NAS to the client over a non-line-of-sight distance of 10m. The main node resides in one room where the NBN connection is fed, and the client sits 10m away in another room with brick walls and windows as obstacles to the signal. 

A baseline test is conducted from the client to the main mesh kit’s node, and then we switch on the extending node to note the difference in performance. The tester ensures the laptop is restarted and reconnected to the network after the mesh unit has been enabled to make sure a connection is made to the extending node.

Speed at extended range test: we transfer data from a NAS device to the client over a line-of-sight distance of 40m. For products that only support smart switching or band steering, we must force the client adapter to use the 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands manually when connecting to these products. If there’s an improvement in performance with this setting, we use this figure for the 5GHz test, as we want to make sure we’re assessing the router’s best capable performance.

We also conduct a test with a mesh node placed halfway between the main node and the client, in order to see if there’s a boost in performance when the mesh kit is working as intended. This is the figure that’s used for assessment in the long-distance test.

Ease of use 

Ease of use includes:

• Initial set-up: how easy it is to set up each mesh kit using the supplied instructions
• Extender node set-up: the process for setting up each node (and how easy it is)
• Firmware update: whether this needs to be done manually or is automatic once you’ve set up the kit
• Changing settings: how easy it is to access and change settings, such as wireless network names
• Smart device installation: how easy it is to add and set up smart devices on the network.

Power consumption

We measure idle consumption only (24 hours). We repeat the process for the extending nodes, making sure that the main node is powered on to establish the mesh network, and add the figures.

How we score wireless mesh router kits

The 糖心Vlog Expert rating is made up of:

• Performance (60%)
• Ease of use (40%)

We recommend wireless routers with a 糖心Vlog expert rating of 75% or more.

The post How we test wireless and mesh routers appeared first on 糖心Vlog.

The Wi-Fi standard (basically the firmware that makes Wi-Fi work) is updated every few years. The updates broadly improve performance and security which means faster speeds at home for the average user.

Your router or modem-router needs to support one of the latest versions to access the best speeds delivered by the NBN. These are Wi-Fi 6, 6E and 7. Networking equipment that鈥檚 running older versions will work, but it may create a bandwidth bottleneck and you could be paying for a plan that you can鈥檛 actually use.

That鈥檚 why a Wi-Fi 6, 6E or 7 router is the way to go. But it鈥檚 worth noting that each version is different and the best option depends on your NBN plan, download/upload needs and the number of people in your home.

• What is a Wi-Fi version?
• How Wi-Fi versions affect speed and performance
• How Wi-Fi versions affect bandwidth
• How to check the Wi-Fi version at home
• Do I need a Wi-Fi 6, 6E or 7 router?
• Wi-Fi 7 device compatibility

If you鈥檙e not across how modems, routers and modem-routers connect your home to the NBN (and other internet options), check out our modems and routers guide. Note that references to routers also cover modem-routers even though most homes don鈥檛 need these to connect to the NBN.

What is a Wi-Fi version?

Like your computer, smartphone and TV, your Wi-Fi needs firmware to function. A group of organisations quietly maintain and update this firmware to match improvements in networking hardware (router, mesh networks etc) and internet speeds.

The latest version is Wi-Fi 7 (released in 2024), so called because it鈥檚 the seventh generation of the Wi-Fi standard. This succeeds Wi-Fi 5 (2013), Wi-Fi 6 (2019) and Wi-Fi 6E (2021).

These Wi-F- versions are bound to the hardware, so you can鈥檛 upgrade your router to a newer Wi-Fi version at home. If you want the benefits of a newer version, you have to buy new equipment.

How Wi-Fi versions affect speed and performance

Routers can only send and receive a certain amount of data at a time. This data is measured in megabits per second (Mbps) or gigabits per second (Gbps) once the total number of megabits exceeds 1000 (1Gbps = 1000 Mbps).

Your router鈥檚 Wi-Fi version is one of the key factors that determines data transfer speeds. The peak speeds supported by older versions is much lower than the speeds supported by Wi-Fi 6, 6E and 7, which means that older versions can experience a performance bottleneck.

Say you鈥檙e signed up to an NBN plan with 500Mbps download speeds (e.g. 500/100) that connects to your home using a Wi-Fi 4 router. Wi-Fi 4 has a maximum speed of 100Mbps so even though your plan can reach up to 500Mbps, your home network is limited to one fifth of that. See the problem?

That鈥檚 why you need a router with a Wi-Fi version that matches or exceeds your NBN plan鈥檚 maximum speeds. This is particularly important after the NBN鈥檚 recent free speed upgrades 鈥� your older router may have worked just fine when you were on a 100/40 plan, but the 500/100 speed boost could exceed its capabilities.

How Wi-Fi versions affect bandwidth

The data transfer rate also affects bandwidth, which is just as important as speed. Bandwidth basically determines how many devices can access the network at the same time without causing lag, buffering and other general performance problems.

For example, if you have four people streaming 4K video on your 1000/100Mbps plan at the same time, they can access up to 250Mbps worth of data each. This is more than enough bandwidth to supply the speeds required for video streaming.

This is where a Wi-Fi 6, 6E or 7 router comes in handy. Older Wi-Fi versions may not have enough bandwidth to go around, such as Wi-Fi 4 which caps at 100Mbps leaving each person with 25Mbps for streaming.

Reducing latency

Wi-Fi 7 also improves and reduces latency between devices, which is a fancy way of saying there鈥檚 less lag. You probably won鈥檛 notice much difference doing day-to-day activities, but less latency is a big tick for anyone who plays fast-paced games online.

How to check the Wi-Fi version at home

An upgrade may be required if you鈥檙e running anything older than Wi-Fi 5. The first thing to do is check the Wi-Fi version on your router by flipping it over and looking through the information printed on the base, checking the manual or searching the model number online.

Note that your router may list the technical name for the Wi-Fi version instead of the consumer alternative. These are:

• Wi-Fi 7: 802.11be
• Wi-Fi 6/6E: 802.11.ax
• Wi-Fi 5: 802.11ac
• Wi-Fi 4: 802.11n

We haven鈥檛 included Wi-Fi 1 to 3 due to their age and performance limitations in 2026.

You can probably get away with holding onto a Wi-Fi 5 router for now, as this version is capable of running NBN plans with a maximum download speed of 500Mbps. Wi-Fi 4 will not typically exceed 100Mbps and though there are plans at (and below) this speed, using older equipment is risky.

Wi-Fi 6E is an 鈥榚xtended鈥� version of Wi-Fi 6. It adds a 6GHz band for supported routers which can help relieve network congestion when lots of devices are online at the same time. It can also exceed the 1000Mbps Wi-Fi 6 limit with a bit of technical knowhow.

Security concerns

Routers running Wi-Fi 5 (and earlier) are getting very long in the tooth and may have reached end of life. That means manufacturers may have stopped rolling out essential security updates which leaves your network extremely vulnerable to attack.

After all, Wi-Fi 5 is almost 13 years old while Wi-Fi 4 is about to turn 17. Smartphone and laptop operating systems aren鈥檛 supported for that long and your router probably isn鈥檛 either.

Do I need a Wi-Fi 6, 6E or 7 router?

This mostly comes down to the maximum download speeds on your NBN plan. Wi-Fi 6 and 7 routers support the fastest NBN plans currently available to consumers and they futureproof your network for potential speed upgrades down the line.

A Wi-Fi 7-enabled router is the best option as these typically deliver speeds around 2000Mbps. Wi-Fi 6 caps out at 1000Mbps, but this is still suitable for the vast majority of consumers signed up to plans that deliver 1000Mbps or less.

How to buy the right router

The advertised Wi-Fi version is the best indicator of how your modem-router or router will perform on the NBN. Ignore the maximum bandwidth and download speeds being advertised by Internet Service Providers. They鈥檙e not inaccurate, but they鈥檙e a bit misleading.

On paper, Wi-Fi 6, 6E and 7 can achieve maximum speeds that go well beyond consumer-grade NBN plans. You think 1000Mbps download is fast? Try 9.6Gbps on Wi-Fi 6! Manufacturers love to advertise these figures and you鈥檇 be forgiven for thinking that a Wi-Fi 6 router can reach Wi-Fi 7 speeds.

So why can鈥檛 Wi-Fi 6 routers hit anything faster than 1000Mbps? Hardware, particularly the Wide Area Network (WAN) port. The WAN is a part of the chain that connects your home network to the outside line and it has a data limit as well, just like Wi-Fi versions.

Back when Wi-Fi 6 was the norm, pretty much every consumer-grade router and modem-router used a 1Gbps (1000Mbps) WAN port, creating a bottleneck. WAN hardware has since improved which is why Wi-Fi 6E and 7 routers can reach greater maximum speeds.

Wi-Fi 7 device compatibility

The last piece in the networking puzzle is device computability. Will your phone, laptop, TV, games console, smart lightbulbs, doorbell, baby monitor and everything else work with Wi-Fi 7?

Yes, with a caveat. In order for Wi-Fi 7 to reach its full potential, your devices will need to be able to support the maximum speeds as well. But Wi-Fi 7 is still fairly new and many older laptops, phones, tablets and so on won鈥檛 support it.

Your devices will still connect because Wi-Fi 7 is backwards compatible with older versions. You just won鈥檛 get the same blistering speeds as you would with a compatible device.

There鈥檚 no need to worry about buying into a technology that isn鈥檛 widely supported just yet. It鈥檚 only a matter of time before Wi-Fi 7 replaces Wi-Fi 6 as the new normal for devices.

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I wasn鈥檛 always like this. Decades ago, when the NBN was a political football and folks got intense about the difference between fibre to the node (FTTN) vs fibre to the premises (FTTP) 鈥�  I used to go really in-depth about my internet .

What was the best modem? Where should I place it in my house? What provider should I go with? How will this affect my latency, goddammit? How will this impact my ping?

(No idea what I’m talking about? Check out our guide to everything you need to know about the NBN before you read on.)

I鈥檓 not sure why this changed. Most likely it was a combination of factors. First, thanks to my decaying reaction times, I don鈥檛 play as many online video games as I used to, so my need for cutting-edge speeds has declined.

But secondly 鈥� I had the NBN! My speeds were good enough, right? What was the point of stressing? So I moved on with my life. Problem solved.

Only my problems weren鈥檛 solved at all. 

Back in 2019, when I first moved to my current house, my only NBN option was fibre to the curb (FTTC), a service which, by most accounts, was a fairly stable, albeit slightly inferior alternative to the holy grail of FTTP. I got your bog-standard NBN download speed of 50Mbps, and felt like I鈥檇 done my job.

Years later, when I was offered an upgrade to FTTP (at a cost) I thought, 鈥淚鈥檒l get round to it鈥�.

But I didn鈥檛. 

Connecting the dots

And then the cracks started to show. My FTTC connection device was installed in an obscure corner of my house, which affected the range and quality of my online connection. In certain spots in my home, I frequently had to tether to my phone just to get online. 

Then came the complaints from my kids. As they got older, the quality of our connection affected their ability to play Fortnite and Minecraft sans lag. And if more than three people were actively using the connection on different devices? Forget about it. We were in Buffer City, population: me.  

But for some reason my brain didn鈥檛 connect the dots. Despite the fact an upgraded connection was just a handful of mouse clicks away, I had a mental block.

I didn鈥檛 think my internet issues were a problem I could solve. I thought of my online issues as a constant, like low water pressure in the bathroom. I simply accepted it, shook my head like, 鈥渄amn鈥� shame we have terrible internet in our house鈥�.

And I moved on with my life. Because I am a moron.

I can鈥檛 remember the exact moment it clicked that I had agency over this issue, but I suspect the NBN鈥檚 high speed upgrades had something to do with it.

Long story short, in September last year the NBN got itself a massive upgrade, automatically upgrading wholesale speeds for millions of FTTP users at no extra cost to wholesalers. I watched as people jumped from 100Mbps speeds to 500Mbps speeds overnight and thought, 鈥渉ow do I get a piece of this?鈥�

Turns out I couldn鈥檛, because of my sub-standard FTTC connection.

Time to upgrade

When I actually investigated upgrading to the far superior FTTP, it was way easier than I expected. In seconds I had booked a free appointment for an upgrade and exactly one week later my new connection was installed in a few short hours (and, thankfully, slap bang in the middle of the house). A task that I鈥檇 dithered on for years was accomplished with little to no effort or cost and the benefits were huge.

Before my fancy new internet was installed, I downloaded a new video game I was excited to try (Cairn, on the PS5 in case you鈥檙e wondering 鈥� it鈥檚 great!) It took around 20 to 25 minutes to download on my old connection. As a little test, I deleted the game and redownloaded it after I鈥檇 upgraded. It rattled down in around 100 seconds. An insane leap.

No more tethering to my phone for the internet. No more juddering if my youngest jumped on Minecraft. No more complaining about lag when my oldest didn鈥檛 get a Victory Royale on Fortnite. Smooth as butter. 

Is this heaven?

I think I鈥檝e learned a lesson here, but I鈥檓 not sure what. Don鈥檛 procrastinate? Don鈥檛 think of bad internet as some permanent, insurmountable issue? Every time my connection dropped out, or I had issues with my FTTC connection box I would simply shrug my shoulders and accept my fate.

The reality: if I鈥檇 taken ownership over the issues sooner, I could have been enjoying the fruits of a solid FTTP connection with 700Mbps downloads months ago. 

Don鈥檛 be like me. Act now! Over the next few months 糖心Vlog is going to be publishing a series of articles to help you . When it comes to getting the most out of your internet, the details matter. Stay tuned for more.

The post Fixing my terrible internet was a lot easier than I thought appeared first on 糖心Vlog.

Networking is a black hole of deep, technical knowledge so you probably don鈥檛 need to understand all the ins and outs of how these things work. But it鈥檚 worth getting your head around what modems and routers actually do and how they connect your home to the NBN. This can help you buy the right equipment to get the best possible internet speeds for your home.

How do modems, routers and modem-routers work?

The two networking devices that you need to get online are:

• Modem: bridges the connection between the outside internet line and your home via a wall socket, not unlike a landline phone.
• Router: distributes the internet throughout your home via wired (ethernet) or wireless (Wi-Fi) signals.

You can buy standalone routers or each device combined in a single unit called a modem-router. Standalone modems exist, but they aren鈥檛 widely available.

Most typical home networks need a modem and a router of some kind. In most cases, internet capable devices, like laptops or phones, can’t connect directly to a modem. They need a router. Routers, meanwhile, can’t connect to the outside line on their own. They need a modem.

Like anything tech, there are more advanced alternatives that may allow you to connect directly to a modem using specialised PC components. But they’re not necessary for the average person that just wants a good Wi-Fi setup at home.

Meanwhile, your internet connection is managed by:

• NBN Co: the organisation responsible for managing NBN (National Broadband Network) wholesale connection packages and infrastructure across Australia.
• Internet service provider (ISP): companies that sell NBN packages 鈥� aka plans 鈥� to consumers. These are available in a variety of speeds to match your home internet needs and budget. Your ISP is the point of contact for all things NBN at home.

How to tell the difference between a modem and a router

There are three things to look for make sure you鈥檙e buying, or using, the right networking equipment for your needs.

1. Check the packaging: The box will say 鈥渕odem鈥�, 鈥渞outer鈥� or, most likely, 鈥渕odem-router鈥�.
2. Check the product info online: The retailer or ISP will provide the same information as the box. If it鈥檚 not available, note the model number and check the manufacturer鈥檚 website.
3. Look on the bottom of the unit: If you already have networking equipment but you鈥檙e not quite sure what it is, flip it over and look. It should say whether you have a modem, router or modem-router. If not, record the model number and check online.

Do I need a modem to connect to the NBN?

Yes, strictly speaking, but the connection process may have changed compared to the broadband days of yore. It comes down to how your fixed-line property connects to the NBN which is covered here and in greater detail at the link below.

• Fibre to the node (FTTN): Uses a combination of fibre and copper cabling. The fibre cable reaches a junction (the node) at one end of the street, which then distributes the NBN to homes via copper.
• Fibre to the curb (FTTC): Uses a combination of fibre and copper cabling. Fibre cables run closer to homes, usually down the street, before converting to copper for each home via smaller junctions rather than a single node.
• Hybrid fibre鈥揷oaxial (HFC): Uses a combination of fibre and coaxial cabling. Fibre cabling carries the NBN down your street, then piggybacks onto an existing coaxial cable to the home (where available).
• Fibre to the premises (FTTP): A fibre cable connects directly to your house from the street.
•  Fibre to the Building (FTTB): Used in apartments. The fibre NBN cable reaches a junction in the building, which then distributes internet access to the apartments using existing communications cables.

You can find out how your home connects at the NBN address checker 鈥� .

Before the NBN, most Australian households got online using an ADSL connection (or one of its many variants) by plugging a modem or modem-router into a wall socket. Consumers had to buy their own modem either from an electronics retailer or their ISP.

These days, FTTC, FTTP and HFC NBN connections use a , sometimes called an NBN connection box. It functions just like a modem, which means you don鈥檛 need to go out and buy a modem, modem-router or NTD yourself.

An NTD works just like a modem but it鈥檚 supplied by NBN Co when the technicians come by to set things up. Even if you move house, an NTD should be waiting for you unless the previous owners took it (which they鈥檙e not supposed to do).

NTDs look a little different depending on the type of connection, but the basic functionality is the same. You just connect the NTD to the outside line (a port in the wall) followed by your router and you鈥檙e ready to go.

FTTN and FTTB don鈥檛 use a network termination device. They keep things old school so you鈥檒l need to plug a modem or modem-router directly into the wall socket. NBN Co. will not supply FTTN and FTTB properties with an NTD during setup as it鈥檚 not required.

Upgrading to FTTP

Many FTTN and FTTC properties are eligible for free upgrades to the much faster FTTP network. NBN Co. will supply a network termination device if you upgrade your property from FTTN to FTTP. A FTTB upgrade may be available depending on your ISP and strata approval.

What to look for in an NBN router

A modem or NTD alone cannot distribute the network signal around your home. You鈥檒l need to purchase a standalone router or modem-router from your ISP or a third-party. Any model will do, but older models may not be able to deliver the maximum speeds supplied by your NBN plan.

Peak data transfer speeds are included in the advertising, but they are usually higher than the actual real world performance and aren鈥檛 really helpful for the average consumer. Instead, look at which Wi-Fi version it uses 鈥� this is the best indicator of how your router will perform with your NBN plan.

Every few years a new version of the Wi-Fi standard is released. The latest version is Wi-Fi 7 (2024), so called because it鈥檚 the 7th generation of the Wi-Fi standard. This succeeds Wi-Fi 5 (2013), Wi-Fi 6 (2019) and Wi-Fi 6E (2021).

Each version improves the maximum bandwidth, which impacts your internet connection鈥檚 speed and performance. For example, Wi-Fi 5 typically reaches up to 500 megabits per second (Mbps), while Wi-Fi 6 reaches up to 1000 Mbps and Wi-Fi 7 can handle the fastest NBN plans available to consumers (2000 Mbps).

Understanding the Wi-Fi version used by your router is essential. Otherwise, you may be paying for an NBN plan that your equipment can鈥檛 utilise. For example, if you鈥檙e paying for download speeds up to 1000 Mbps but you鈥檙e using a Wi-Fi 5 router, your download speeds won鈥檛 exceed 500 Mbps.

There鈥檚 a bit more that goes into it (which gets pretty technical 鈥� look up WAN speeds if you鈥檙e curious), but Wi-Fi versions are the easiest top level details to follow.

If your NBN speeds exceed the maximum capabilities of your router then you should strongly consider a router upgrade. Routers are stuck with the Wi-Fi version that was installed during manufacture. That means you can鈥檛 upgrade a Wi-Fi 5 router to Wi-Fi 6, for example.

Anything older than Wi-Fi 5 should be replaced. For best results, you should be using a router with Wi-Fi 6 or higher. Wi-Fi 7 routers can get expensive but they are the best option for future proofing your home network.

These are some examples of NBN plans and the Wi-Fi versions that support their peak speeds. You can check the Wi-Fi version of your router at home by flipping it over and looking through the information printed on the base, or looking up the model number online if it鈥檚 not there.

Note we have also listed the technical names of each Wi-Fi version in brackets. These may be printed on the router instead of the more generic Wi-Fi 5, Wi-Fi 6, Wi-Fi 7 etc.

How much does a router or modem-router cost?

Wi-Fi 6 routers start at around $150, or $200鈥�250 for a modem-router. Top tier consumer-grade models that support gigabit speeds and Wi-Fi 7 can cost as much as $500鈥�600.

The cost of purchasing a router or modem-router from an ISP is usually less, but exact prices vary. You may have to pay a one-off flat rate, a small additional fee that鈥檚 added to your monthly bill or nothing at all.

Your NBN modem and router questions answered

Still got questions? We’ve got you covered.

Can I still use a modem with an NTD?

Yes, a modem/router will still function as a normal router when you plug it into an NTD. But you shouldn鈥檛 install a standalone modem between the NTD and a standalone router, because you鈥檙e just adding an unnecessary link to the chain that can impact performance.

Do I need to get a modem, router or modem-router from my ISP?

ISPs often sell their own standalone routers and modem-routers, or bundle them in with internet plans at a discount. Sometimes they鈥檙e included for free. But your equipment and NBN plan don鈥檛 need to come from the same company to work together.

Equipment supplied by your ISP is usually cheaper than the gear you can buy outright from a retailer. However, ISPs don鈥檛 typically offer more than a couple of options and these are rarely high performance. Retailers stock a large range of entry level, mid-range and high-performance routers and modem-routers.

Are modems still useful?

For FTTN and FTTB homes, yes, a modem or modem-router is still an essential component for getting online. But most FTTC, FTTP and HFC households don鈥檛 require a modem anymore. An NTD functions just like a modem and, when plugged into a router it can provide an NBN connection to match the needs of the average consumer.

Some ISPs supply modem-routers with built-in SIM cards, which automatically connect to a 4G or 5G network when the internet drops out. So, if your ISP has scheduled NBN maintenance in your area, you don鈥檛 need to worry about going offline while they work on your FTTP or HFC connection, for example.

These plans cost a little bit more than a standard NBN connection and are only available from ISPs that also offer mobile services 鈥� such as Telstra and Optus. Standalone routers don鈥檛 support this feature.

Do satellite and fixed wireless NBN connections need a modem?

Sort of. uses an NTD while satellite NBN does use a modem, but it鈥檚 not exactly the same as one you鈥檇 find at a retailer. They both work with a standard router and are supplied by NBN Co.

Does Starlink need a modem and a router?

Yes, but you don’t have to buy them separately. Starlink includes a modem-router with the standard satellite kit which you can use to get online.

Things can get complicated if you want to use a third-party modem-router, or separate modem and router setup. It鈥檚 best to get in touch with your Starlink ISP if you鈥檙e looking at these options.

Do I have to use the NBN?

You can bypass the NBN altogether with a 5G modem-router. These connect to mobile data networks instead of the NBN, then distribute the internet around your home via ethernet and Wi-Fi. Just like a standard modem-router.

They can be a good alternative if you live in an area with a strong 5G connection or located outside regions where the NBN provides fixed-line services. But these internet plans are usually more expensive than those offered by the NBN.

Additional home networking equipment

You may come across these items at retailers or for sale by your ISP. They鈥檙e not essential but can help improve a home network.

Wi-Fi repeaters (aka extenders)

Essentially these are mini routers that boost a weak Wi-Fi signal, to improve connectivity in rooms or areas that are far away from the modem-router or router. For example, a repeater in the back room can fix a weak Wi-Fi signal in the backyard.

Repeaters are relatively affordable and they plug into a wall socket, making them a good option for renters. They鈥檙e best used to fix a couple of Wi-Fi dead zones around the house.

Mesh networks

A series of Wi-Fi nodes are placed around your house which work together to form a strong network zone (like a bubble) across the property. Mesh network performance is a step above repeaters and a great option for larger properties that need good Wi-Fi coverage in every nook and cranny. Older houses can also benefit as Wi-Fi has trouble penetrating thicker walls, such as double brick.

They鈥檙e typically more expensive than repeaters and can be fiddly to set up. Though they don鈥檛 need to be wall-mounted, most nodes work best when they鈥檙e higher up or in an open area, which may not be an option for all households.

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Yes, you read that right 鈥� faster internet for free.

You may have noticed that your files are downloading a bit faster than before, that you can stream higher quality videos without buffering, or that connection issues no longer occur when multiple people are online at home at the same time. Or maybe you haven鈥檛 noticed any changes at all.

In any case, it鈥檚 important to get across the updates to figure out whether your NBN plan is still the best fit for your household. With a little research, you could upgrade to an internet plan that is five times faster than your current plan at no extra cost, depending on where you live.

• Understanding NBN speeds and plans
• How does the NBN connect to my home?
• What are the NBN connection types and how do they affect speeds?
• How to get the free NBN speed upgrade
• What鈥檚 the best NBN plan for homes?
• Your NBN questions answered
• I鈥檓 eligible for the upgrade but my internet is still slow, what鈥檚 wrong?

What are the new NBN speeds?

First things first, are you already familiar with networking and how the NBN connects to your home? Great! Everything you need to know about the free speed upgrades is in the table below.

But if terms like FTTP, ISP, megabits per second and gigabit internet are doing your head in, keep reading. We鈥檝e prepared a beginner鈥檚 guide to how the NBN works below.

NBN Co has upgraded three existing wholesale plans and introduced a new top-tier speed for internet service providers (ISPs) to sell. They鈥檝e been released for free and may have already been quietly applied to your NBN plan at no extra cost. Slower speed plans have not changed.

The original wholesale speeds, upgrades and new ultra-high speed plan (2000Mbps) are detailed below. Note, the exact download and upload speeds advertised may vary slightly depending on the plans available from your ISP.

If you鈥檙e on an existing 100, 250 or 1000Mbps plan and your NBN connects via FTTP or HFC, the free speed upgrade should have already taken effect. You don鈥檛 need to do anything or contact your ISP, and you don鈥檛 need to pay any more for the privilege.

Understanding NBN speeds and plans

Did that last section on speeds confuse the hell out of you? That鈥檚 OK, you鈥檒l be an NBN pro by the end of this article.

Internet service providers (ISPs) sell NBN packages 鈥� aka plans 鈥� to consumers. These are available in a variety of speeds to match your home internet needs. These speeds determine two things.

1. Upload/download speed: How quickly you can download and upload files (which also affects video streaming quality).
2. Bandwidth: The total amount of data available on the network per second, which affects number of devices that can be connected and in use at the same time without issues like buffering, lag and drop-outs.

Download and upload speeds are advertised with two numbers separated by a forward slash. The first number refers to download speed in megabits per second (Mbps), while the second refers to upload speeds, again in Mbps.

For example, a 100/20 plan means download speeds of up to 100Mbps and upload speeds of up to 20Mbps. Ultra-fast plans that start at 1000Mbps for download speed are often called “gigabit internet”.

If one device in your home is online, it can utilise the full bandwidth of your plan to access its maximum speeds. If more than one device is connected, bandwidth will split the available data across them.

So, if you have a 500Mbps plan at home and four devices are connected to that network, each one can access 125Mbps download speed, for example. It鈥檚 a little more complicated than that, but this basically covers the core concepts of speed and bandwidth.

Though the advertising refers to bandwidth and speeds, NBN Co and ISPs typically use the word 鈥榮peed鈥� to advertise both. This article will do the same moving forward.

The average consumer downloads much more data than they upload. Basically, any online activity involves a download of some kind 鈥� music and video streaming, saving recipes, even basic web browsing.

Uploading involves moving files from a hard drive in your computer, smartphone and so on (which is called local storage) to an online service. Attaching a file to an email, moving pictures into cloud storage and live streaming video are all examples of uploading data.

More megabits on your plan equals faster download speeds and/or more bandwidth for simultaneous users. But as speeds increase, so do the monthly fees. The fastest plans can cost as much as $170 per month.

Fortunately, the days of download limits are mostly behind us. The vast majority of NBN plans don鈥檛 place limits on the amount of data you can download and upload in a month, unless otherwise specified (there are always some exceptions).

Speeds vs typical evening speeds

As well as regular speeds, ISPs also advertise 鈥渢ypical evening speeds鈥�, which reflect how your plan performs in the real world. They鈥檙e a tad slower than the maximum possible speed for each plan; for example, a 100/20 plan may have a typical evening speed of 88/14 Mbps.

The evening is the time of day when the number of concurrent internet users is at its peak. As more homes log on, there鈥檚 less data to go around, so speeds start to slow down. So, while your plan is technically capable of 100/20, it鈥檒l likely peak around the advertised evening speeds.

Names vs numbers

ISPs have to display the maximum and typical evening download and upload speeds, but they鈥檙e free to call their plans whatever they want. For example, Telstra calls its 500/40 plan 鈥淧remium nbn鈥�, whereas Superloop calls its similar plan 鈥淔amily Max鈥� (500/50) and Optus uses the much simpler 鈥淔ast plan鈥�.

The names are just marketing. If you鈥檙e shopping around for a new plan or trying to figure out your current connection, ignore the branding and look at the download/upload figures.

How does the NBN connect to my home?

Standalone homes, apartment buildings and townhouses access the NBN using one of five connection types. Yep, you read that correctly, five, and that鈥檚 not including satellite internet (more on that later).

It all comes down to the infrastructure, specifically copper and fibre optic cables. The NBN is distributed via very fast fibre cables across most urban areas, and many homes have direct access to this version of the network. Others switch to the older copper network that was used for broadband (for example, ADSL and ADSL2) at some point along the way, which slows things down.

Why? Because copper cables can鈥檛 transmit data as quickly as fibre. This means most of the high-speed internet plans are not available to many homes that still use copper to connect.

You need to know how your home connects to the NBN if you鈥檙e interested in high-speed plans. Otherwise, you could wind up paying for a service that you can鈥檛 use.

How do I check my connection type?

Most of the country is on the NBN as of early 2026. But the type of connection varies depending on where you live. You can enter your address at this link to find out how your home hooks up to the NBN 鈥� .

Information for regional areas can be spotty. The address checker also notes whether an area is serviceable (the NBN is available on request), or, in rare cases, if it isn鈥檛 covered by the NBN at all. Residents in serviceable areas should contact NBN Co to find out how to connect to the network.

What are the NBN connection types and how do they affect speeds?

• Fibre to the Node (FTTN): Uses a combination of fibre and copper cabling. The fibre cable reaches a junction (the node) at one end of the street, which then distributes the NBN to homes via copper. FTTN has a maximum download speed of 100Mbps.
• Fibre to the Curb (FTTC): Uses a combination of fibre and copper cabling. Fibre cables run closer to homes, usually down the street, before converting to copper for each home via smaller junctions rather than a single node. FTTC has a maximum download speed of 100Mbps.
• Hybrid Fibre Coaxial (HFC): Uses a combination of fibre and coaxial cabling. Fibre cabling carries the NBN down your street, then piggybacks onto an existing coaxial cable to the home (where available). Coaxial cables are used for pay TV, like Foxtel, and there鈥檚 enough room for the NBN to share the connection. You don鈥檛 need to have an active pay TV account to use HFC; as long as the cable is there, it will work. HFC can access the highest download speeds currently available to consumers (upload is limited to 100Mbps).
• Fibre to the Premises (FTTP): A fibre cable connects directly to your house from the street. This is the best option available and provides the fastest download and upload speeds available to consumers, with enough flexibility for possible upgrades in the future.

Apartments also use Fibre to the Building (FTTB). The fibre NBN cable reaches a junction in the building, where internet access is then distributed to the apartments using existing communications cables. These can vary depending on the age of the building and whether infrastructure has been upgraded over time, which determines your maximum internet speeds.

For a detailed breakdown, .

How to get the free NBN speed upgrade

Broadly speaking, free upgrades mean Australians can now access faster internet speeds, often at no extra cost. Many households have already received free speed upgrades under certain conditions.

All 100Mbps and 250Mbps download plans have been bumped up to 500Mbps or 750Mbps respectively. However, the higher speeds are only accessible to customers using HFC or FTTP (and maybe some FTTBs). If your home ticks one of these boxes, congratulations, your internet has improved at no extra cost.

Properties with FTTN or FTTC aren鈥檛 eligible for the upgrades because of the speed limitations of copper. Your existing plan and monthly fees aren鈥檛 changing but you can apply to upgrade to an FTTP connection (read the next section to find out how).

Slower speed plans 鈥� anything offering 50Mbps or below 鈥� are the same. Your existing plan and the monthly fees aren鈥檛 changing.

Upload speeds have also increased, but this doesn鈥檛 impact the average consumer quite as much. It applies to people who regularly upload large amounts of data, say if you鈥檙e running a home business, making YouTube videos or live streaming.

The brand new 2000Mbps download plan is not covered under any free upgrades. You鈥檒l have to switch to a more expensive plan if you want the fastest consumer-grade speeds on the market.

I don鈥檛 have FTTP or HFC, how do I get the free speed upgrade?

Speeds above 100Mbps and free upgrades are not available to customers on FTTN and FTTC copper networks. However, you may be able to upgrade to FTTP at no extra cost. This depends on whether fibre has rolled out in your area since the NBN launched back in 2011.

First, find out if your property can convert to fibre. Go to the then enter your address and click 鈥淐heck residential鈥�. Eligible properties should see a green box that says 鈥淢ake the switch to NBN Fibre to the Premises (FTTP)鈥�. If that鈥檚 not there, you鈥檙e stuck with your current setup for the time being.

Next, contact your ISP to arrange an upgrade if your household is eligible. There may be installation costs, but ISPs regularly offer FTTP upgrades for free. It may be worth holding off until one of these promos rolls around, or you could always just ask for a freebie.

What鈥檚 the best NBN plan for homes?

Most households of two to five people will be comfortable with the newly upgraded 500Mbps or 750Mbps download speeds. These cover all typical consumer needs, such as video streaming or online gaming at very high resolutions (4K ultra-high definition) and are unlikely to lag or drop out when multiple people are online.

Slower plans around the 50Mbps mark are a suitable alternative for smaller households or budget-conscious consumers, but they come with limitations. Be aware that downloads will take longer and streaming might buffer or drop down to lower resolutions (HD and SD) from time to time.

Some ISPs have started selling plans that match the pre-upgrade speeds. However, the monthly costs aren鈥檛 very competitive, usually only a few dollars less than the significantly faster upgraded plans. They鈥檙e not really worth considering.

Do I need the fastest plan?

Gigabit (1000Mbps and above) internet plans are expensive and only useful for large households and heavy tech users. You may benefit from ultra-high-speed internet if you鈥檙e regularly downloading large files, massive programs and games (including updates) or frequently streaming 4K UHD video.

Most households also lack the latest networking equipment that can fully take advantage of gigabit internet. Like copper cables, the networking chips and technical bits in your modem, router, computer, smartphone and games console can only go so fast.

Gigabit-capable modems and routers with new Wi-Fi standards (Wi-Fi 6 and 7) are available and they鈥檙e not too expensive these days. But it鈥檚 still an additional cost, so factor that in or make sure your current gear is up to scratch if you have your heart set on the ultra-high-speed plans.

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NBN alternatives explained

There are two main high-speed alternatives to the NBN, but they may cost a bit more and often aren鈥檛 entirely practical (depending on where you live).

The first option is a 5G modem. Instead of connecting to the NBN, these connect to the same mobile data network that your smartphone uses to power your home network. That means Wi-Fi (and ethernet connections) will function as normal.

These plans are only really effective if you live in an area with good 5G coverage. Many are also subject to download limits (a thing of the past on NBN plans) that are easy to reach in the streaming era.

Starlink satellite internet has also rolled out in Australia. It鈥檚 a good option for rural customers in particular, and for some homes in urban centres or major cities. But it鈥檚 usually more expensive than the NBN, depending on where you live.

Your NBN questions answered

Still got more questions about speed upgrades? We鈥檝e got you covered.

Am I on the NBN?

Most likely. You can check your home鈥檚 NBN connection status at the . If you have the internet but there isn鈥檛 information about your property, or you鈥檙e not absolutely certain that you don鈥檛 have satellite NBN, you鈥檙e either:

1. in a serviceable area that hasn鈥檛 yet connected to the NBN.
2. on an older broadband network.
3. in an area that isn鈥檛 serviced by the NBN (uncommon in 2026).
4. connected to the internet via an NBN alternative such as a 4/5G modem or Starlink.

Residents in serviceable areas should contact NBN Co to determine their options for connecting to the NBN.

How do I check my internet speeds?

Not sure what your plan is or if the free upgrades are working? Using a computer, smartphone or tablet, go to and click 鈥淕o鈥�. This will measure and display your connection speeds in Mbps.

You may need to troubleshoot if things are running significantly slower than the speeds you should expect from your plan. We鈥檝e covered some basic steps further down.

I鈥檓 on a plan that鈥檚 eligible for the upgrade, in a property with FTTN/HFC connectivity. What do I do?

Nothing. Eligible plans will automatically move to the new speeds once fibre cables are available in your area.

Am I paying more for speed upgrades?

Automatic speed upgrades to existing 100Mbps, 250Mbps and 1000Mbps plans are rolling out free of charge. Your current bill won鈥檛 go up unless you manually switch to a different plan with faster download and/or upload speeds. Monthly fees may increase over time in line with inflation, operation costs and so on, but this isn鈥檛 related to the free speed upgrades.

I don鈥檛 want or need higher speeds; can I go back to my old plan?

You can鈥檛 go back to your old plan as it doesn鈥檛 really exist anymore. It鈥檚 best to stick with your upgraded plan as you鈥檙e getting a better product at no extra charge.

Otherwise, you can ask your ISP to downgrade your account to a slower plan, which may be closer to your speeds prior to the upgrade. These will be cheaper, although as mentioned above, the savings are usually very small.

I鈥檓 not using the extra speeds, and someone else might need them

That鈥檚 not an issue. Connecting to a high-speed plan doesn鈥檛 mean you鈥檙e taking the additional data away from another household. The network automatically allocates it based on need in real time.

Do I need a modem/router from my ISP?

No. ISPs often sell their own routers or modem/routers, or bundle them in with internet plans at a discount. But your router doesn鈥檛 need to be supplied by your ISP for your home internet to work.

When technicians connect FTTP, FTTC and HFC homes to the NBN, they supply a small NBN networking box called a Network Termination Device (NTD). This converts the NBN signal to ethernet for your home network.

After that, the NTD can connect to any modem/router to distribute internet access throughout your home. There are lots of modem/routers on the market and they all work with an NTD. You don鈥檛 have to use one from your ISP.

FTTN homes don’t need an NTD. This connection uses a standard modem or modem/router from any manufacturer, including those supplied by your ISP if you’d prefer.

Just double-check the specifications on the retailer鈥檚 website to confirm that it supports your NBN plan if you鈥檙e paying for a gigabit connection. (You won鈥檛 need to replace your existing modem or modem/router if it supports the new speeds.)

I鈥檓 eligible for the upgrade but my internet is still slow. What鈥檚 wrong?

There are three things you can do to troubleshoot slow internet before contacting your ISP. These are:

1. Turn the NBN box and your router or modem/router off and on again. This resets your network, which can resolve a myriad of technical issues. It鈥檚 a classic solution for a reason.
2. Connect to your 5GHz Wi-Fi network. All modern modems and routers support two Wi-Fi bands: 2.4 and 5GHz (some also have a third 6GHz band). The 2.4GHz band doesn鈥檛 have enough bandwidth for high-speed NBN plans. If your internet-connected devices are running slowly (tapping out at around 60Mbps), switch to the 5GHz network. The steps for selecting a particular network will be in the instruction manual for each device.
3. Check your modem/router speeds. If you鈥檙e on a gigabit plan, older equipment may lack the bandwidth to support these NBN speeds. Check the specifications for your router (or modem/router) and note the maximum download and upload speeds. If they fall below your NBN plan, upgrade to some new equipment that supports the speeds. Search the make and model of your equipment on an internet browser for all the relevant info.

Also, bear in mind that download speeds are also impacted by the source. Just because you have 1000Mbps download speed, for example, doesn鈥檛 mean that every website can supply your files at the same rate.

If your internet is still falling well below the advertised speeds, contact your ISP.

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