Buying an air conditioner before the beginning of winter isn’t as silly as it might sound. Yes, they’re one of our favourite appliances to keep us cool during a hot, humid summer, but did you know they’re also one of the most efficient ways to keep your home warm and cosy in winter?

While there are obviously significant installation costs to consider, reverse cycle air conditioners are by far the cheapest heating appliance to run (as compared to portable electric heaters and gas heaters), which means they’re likely to save you money in the long game.

But with so many different units, brands and types available, choosing which model to buy can be a daunting task.

Most people just want an air conditioner that will keep them cool in summer (and warm in winter) at a good purchase price, and that won’t send their energy bills skyrocketing. 

But once you start shopping, it’s easy to get lost in all the sales spin and become confused by the size or features you actually need. 

To cut through all the hot air, we asked one of our expert testers to bust some of the most common air conditioner myths that can lead shoppers astray.

Myth 1: Bigger is always better

A bigger, more powerful unit is going to be better at heating or cooling a room, right? Well, according to ÌÇÐÄVlog expert Chris Barnes, the opposite can actually be true. He says that a unit that’s too powerful for the space will do something called ‘short cycling’.

“Short cycling happens when the unit cools the room too quickly – without dehumidifying the air properly in the process,” he says. “This means it will need to use more energy, and the air will also feel less comfortable due to the humidity.”

Chris advises taking the time to calculate the correct air con size for your space.

“It’s not only room size that matters,” he says. “Things like insulation, location and orientation can make a big difference to your air-conditioning requirements.”

Myth 2: Air conditioners are only good for cooling

If you think air conditioners are a summer-only appliance, think again. 

“There’s this persistent idea that air conditioners are so expensive to run that you’re better off wheeling out your gas or electric heater in winter,” says Chris.

“This is a massive misconception – it’s significantly cheaper to effectively warm a room with a reverse-cycle air con than a plug-in heater.”

Myth 3: Air conditioners cost roughly the same to run

It’s no secret that air con can be a costly appliance to run. But our comparison shows that two air conditioners of the same size can have running costs that differ by more than $100 a year. 

Chris advises: “Look at the unit’s energy star rating, or the running costs that we calculate based on average use. These will give you the best idea of which models are the most cost-effective to run.”

Myth 4: There’s no point replacing an old unit until it breaks down

It may be tempting to keep using your old air con. But Chris recommends replacing your air conditioner if it’s more than 10 years old – even if it still works fine.

“The energy efficiency of air conditioners has improved a lot over the last decade, so older models cost a lot more to run,” he says.

“You may not feel like shelling out the extra cash for a new unit, but if you use it a lot, a newer model could save you hundreds in running costs each year.”

Read our guide to the cost of installing or replacing an air conditioner.

Myth 5: All modern air conditioners are pretty quiet

It’s true that most air conditioners nowadays are fairly quiet compared with the noisy models of the past. But, Chris warns, “some cheaper or less reliable brands are a bit too noisy, especially the outdoor units”.

A loud outdoor unit may not seem like a big issue, but Chris says they can be disruptive if they are installed close to a neighbour’s window.

All manufacturers publish noise data on their websites, so it’s easy to check the ratings of both the indoor and outdoor unit before you buy.

Myth 6: Expensive air conditioners always perform better

Our expert testing consistently disproves the saying ‘you get what you pay for’, and air conditioners are no exception. 

You’ll find plenty of affordable units in our review that score similarly or better than their pricey counterparts.

Chris also has some advice on bagging a bargain. “Instead of buying this season’s newest model, try to find last year’s run-out stock instead. There won’t usually be much difference between models from the same manufacturer, but old stock is often significantly discounted.”

Myth 7: Fancy features are just sales gimmicks

Gone are the days when an air conditioner remote control consisted of just an on/off switch and a temperature setting. If you’re in the market for a modern unit, you’ll notice new features like Wi-Fi control, a human presence sensor, and special modes like Eco (energy saving) and Sleep (noise reducing and temperature adjusting).

Chris believes many of these new features are actually very useful.

“None of them are ‘must-haves’, but they can be quite effective at improving comfort and convenience and decreasing running costs.”

“For example, the human sensor feature saves you money by letting the temperature vary from the desired set-point when it can sense there’s nobody in the room. Wi-Fi apps can be useful for managing your energy use and for turning on your unit remotely.”

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If you’ve had enough of being cold in winter and hot in summer, you might be considering splashing out on an air conditioner. 

But between the big upfront and installation costs, absurdly long model numbers and confusing sizing advice, it can be hard to tell which is the best option for your particular needs. 

With household bills rising and the temperature dropping, they’re a good option for winter, as they can be cheaper to run than gas or electric heaters. 

If you choose the right model, they can be an efficient and cost-effective way to keep your home at a comfortable temperature year-round. 

On this page:

• Poor performers for heating
• Poor performers for cooling
• What to do before you buy a reverse-cycle air conditioner

To help make choosing easier, our air-conditioning experts crunch the data to compare more than 300 models each year, covering all the major brands on the market, including Daikin, Mitsubishi Electric, Fujitsu, LG and more.Ìý

They scrutinise all the ins and outs of each model to make your purchasing decision easier. And in our most recent air conditioner reviews, we encountered some excellent units and some poor performers.Ìý

For this list, we’ve focused on small-size air conditioners (up to 4kW) as they’re the most popular type in Australia. We have 120 models of this size in our latest review. 

If you’re after medium or large models, check out our full air conditioner reviews. 

(Note: It’s unfair to compare large units against small ones – they aren’t as energy-efficient, but they can heat or cool a much bigger space.)

“All these models have passed minimum energy performance standards to be registered and sold in Australia, so their cooling and heating energy-efficiency scores are OK, but there are much better models out there,” says ÌÇÐÄVlog household appliance expert Chris Barnes.

Good brands, ordinary products

Interestingly, the same brands that delivered air conditioners with the lowest heating and cooling efficiency also produced some of our review’s top scorers – a result we often see across product reviews. 

“The brands in this list aren’t bad brands,” says Chris. 

“It just goes to show that even a good brand can sometimes make some pretty ordinary products. 

“In some cases these air conditioners are older models that may be overdue to be phased out or replaced with more efficient lines.”

Poor performers for heating

Reverse-cycle air conditioning is actually a very cost-effective way to heat your home. However, if you’re dreaming of a toasty warm home this winter, these models might leave you a bit cold. 

Here are the air conditioners that scored the lowest for heating efficiency in our review: 

• Haier AS35TBMHRA-SET (Heating efficiency score: 55%)
• Haier AS35PBDHRA-SET (55%)
• Mitsubishi Electric MFZKW35KIT (56%)
• Haier AS25TBMHRA-SET (56%)
• Samsung F-AR12BXECNWK1 (57%)

Of course, heating efficiency is just one criteria for a great air conditioner. Our air conditioner reviews also assess cooling efficiency, airflow, noise, key features and more.

Poor performers for cooling

When summer rolls around, you’re going to want an air con unit that can keep you cool.

We suggest you avoid these air conditioners that scored the lowest for cooling efficiency in our latest review: 

• Fujitsu ASTH12KNCA (Cooling efficiency score: 55%)
• Fujitsu ASTH12CNCA (55%)
• Mitsubishi Heavy Industries DXK12ZTLA-W (56%)
• Mitsubishi Heavy Industries DXK12ZTLA-WFJ (56%)
• Mitsubishi Heavy Industries SRR35ZS-W (57%)
• Haier AS35TBMCRA-SET (57%)
• Haier AS35TBMHRA-SET (57%)
• Haier AS25TBMHRA-SET (57%)

What to do before you buy a reverse-cycle air conditioner

Insulate your home

If possible, make sure your home is insulated – particularly the ceiling. This will help keep your home warmer in winter and cooler in summer, with or without air conditioning. 

Do your research

Before you buy, check out our expert air conditioner reviews and check the stars on the energy rating label – the more stars the better.Ìý

And make sure the unit is suitable for where you live. A home in Tasmania is going to have different requirements to a home in Perth, so find out how the unit will perform for energy-efficiency in your region.Ìý

“The zoned star-rating label gives more information about how the air conditioner performs in different parts of Australia and New Zealand, so you can pick a model to suit the region you live in,” says Chris.

Buy the right capacity

It’s important to find the right size air conditioner for the space you need to heat and cool. 

Don’t be tempted to undersize to save on the upfront cost, or to go for the biggest available unit in the hope that it will work better – these are both false economies.

“Try to size the air conditioner’s heating and cooling capacity correctly for the room where it will be installed,” says Chris. “Models that are too powerful or too underpowered won’t run as effectively or efficiently.” 

See our article on how to find the right size air conditioner for your space. 

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We asked ÌÇÐÄVlog cooling expert Chris Barnes to share his top five air con no-nos.ÌýIf you’re the type who uses your air con regularly, these tips will help you enjoy the cool without worrying more than necessary about the power bill.

1. He doesn’t overdo it

When stepping outside feels like opening the oven after cooking a roast, it can be tempting to push the air con to the lowest possible temp and luxuriate in the contrasting cold. But if you’re making it so chilly that you now need to add a cardigan to your ensemble then you’re probably doing it wrong.

“The bigger the difference between the outdoor and indoor temperature, the more it will cost you,” says Chris.Ìý

“For a reasonable balance of cost and comfort, you should try to keep the temperature difference to around 8°C, so if it’s a 32°C day, set your air con to around 24°C,” he says.

That doesn’t mean you should be sweltering in 37°C when it hits the mid-40s outside, but you do need to consider the implications of that extra cooling on your energy bill and by extension, the environment.

“Every degree cooled by more than 8°C will add 10% to your running costs, which can really add up across the summer,” he warns.

It’s also important to understand that setting the temperature to 18°C doesn’t actually make the room get colder faster. It’ll still get to that sensible target of 24°C just as quickly (though it will then keep working hard to try and get to 18°C, and use more electricity as a result).

“If fast cooling is what you need, try the ‘powerful’ or ‘jet’ setting, if your air con has that feature; this blasts out cold air at maximum settings. It’s noisy and may be less efficient, but it is faster,” Chris advises.

2. He doesn’t neglect the cleaning

Cleaning is one of those things that makes life easier in the long run if it’s tackled in a timely fashion. Leaving the laundry until there are no clean socks is a mistake most of us only make once, but the repercussions of neglecting other types of cleaning can be less obvious. Air conditioners fall into that second category.Ìý

“A lot of people are probably not even aware that they need to clean their air conditioner, and that doesn’t simply mean wiping down the outside,” says Chris.

Opening up the unit to clean the filters and outlet will help your system run more efficiently.

“Regular cleaning and an occasional service will go a long way towards making sure your air con runs well and keeps you cool throughout the summer,” he says.Ìý

Staying on top of the cleaning will also help reduce your running costs.Ìý

“It’s estimated that a clogged filter can increase energy consumption by 5–15%, so staying on top of the cleaning will also save you money,” Chris says.

3. He doesn’t forget the fans

On a hot day, it can be tempting to hit that air con control straight away, but you may be neglecting a simpler option: the humble fan.Ìý

Fans are not only cheap to buy, they’re also cost-effective to run. Running a fan on low for eight hours a day and on maximum speed for two hours a day throughout the summer will cost less than $10 total for many fans. And most fans could be all day throughout the summer and cost you less than $40 in electricity. On the other hand, an air conditioner will cost between $56 and $1156 a year to run in an average climate zone, depending on the unit size.Ìý

It’s true that a tower or pedestal fan won’t do as much as an air conditioner, but it can help you feel cooler by encouraging the evaporation effect, whereby the movement of air removes sweat from your body, resulting in a drop in your body temperature. Ceiling fans can also help.

“While fans won’t actually lower the temperature of the room on their own, they can help your body cool down,” Chris says. In other words, a fan won’t make the room cooler but it will make you feel more comfortable.Ìý

Fans can also be used to enhance the efficacy of your air con.

“A ceiling fan can help move cool air from an air con (installed high) down to the living area (ground level), which can make your room feel cooler,” he says. “You might even be able to set the air conditioner to a milder temperature, and save on some power.”

4. He doesn’t try to cool the whole neighbourhood

When my children were young I seemed to spend most of every hot day in summer reminding them to close doors to keep the cool air in. And we won’t talk about the time I found my daughter’s bedroom window wide open while the wall-mounted aircon unit struggled valiantly against the 40°C outdoor temperature.Ìý

As a kid, you probably rolled your eyes when your parents nagged you to shut the window and close the door, but it turns out they were right.

“To keep the cool air in and the hot air out you need to make sure the house is sealed properly,” says Chris.

“Use insulation strips around windows and under doors. Keep unused pet doors shut and close off parts of the house you’re not using,” he says.Ìý

You can even use towels to stop gaps under the door. When , conducted an experiment to compare draught excluders, they found a simple towel outperformed the shop-bought options. Of course, it isn’t the neatest solution and you will need to put it back into place each time you open the door but as a cheap and temporary solution, it’s definitely effective.

5. He doesn’t make the air con battle the oven

Or the dishwasher, or any of the other home appliances that generate a lot of heat.Ìý

Sometimes you can’t avoid using them on a hot day, but there are ways to help reduce the effect they have on your air conditioner’s efforts to cool things down.

As well as looking for more energy-efficient appliances when you’re buying something new, you can change the way you run them.Ìý

“Running your dishwasher overnight by either switching it on as you go to bed or using the timer function to delay the cycle means you won’t be adding extra heat to the kitchen while you’re attempting to cool things down,” says Chris.Ìý

“You can also try using a slow cooker or air fryer rather than a conventional oven, as these sorts of appliances won’t heat up your kitchen as much as an oven,” he says. “Microwaves can be effective for things like steaming vegetables or cooking rice, so you won’t have to use the cooktop.”

The post 5 things our cooling expert would never do with his air con appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• How much do air conditioners cost to run?
• How to reduce your air conditioner electricity costs
• What's the ideal temperature to set for summer?
• What's the ideal temperature to set for winter?
• 10 extra tips to save money on your air con in summer

It’s shaping up to be another scorching summer and if you’ve just installed air con to cool your home, or you’re planning to, you’re probably looking forward to never having to swelter through a steaming hot day again.

But before you go cowboy with the temperature remote and turn your living room into an icebox (or a furnace when the chilly weather hits), it’s important to understand how much energy your air con will use, and how much it will affect your bills.Ìý

Heating and cooling appliances account for about 40% of energy use in the average Australian home. The good news is that just a few small changes can help lower your electricity costs and your carbon footprint, which helps the planet too.

Follow these expert air con tips to help keep your energy bills in check.Ìý

How much do air conditioners cost to run?

In our air conditioner reviews, we’ve calculated annual running costs for more than 300 models, based on each model’s rated power consumption.

As the table shows, electricity costs for similar units can differ by hundreds of dollars a year. That’ll add up to thousands of dollars over 10 years, which would cover a large chunk of your air conditioner installation costs.Ìý

It’s even more reason to do your research and shop wisely.

Other factors affecting running costs

Of course, it also depends how much you plan to run your air con, too.

“If you use it rarely – say, only a few days a year during heatwaves or cold snaps – you may be OK to buy a cheaper unit that’s less efficient to run, since the running costs are less of a concern,” says ÌÇÐÄVlog air con expert Chris Barnes.

“But if you use it a lot, such as most of summer or winter, then you absolutely should be looking for a very efficient model.”

Chris also stresses that there are many factors beyond the unit itself that will affect the running costs.

“Variables like the climate zone you live in, your home’s location, thermal efficiency and insulation, outdoor temperature and the set target indoor temperature can all significantly impact how hard the air conditioner has to work,” he says.

Energy star ratings are now based on the Zoned Energy Rating Label (ZERL), which shows ratings based on climate zones to help you decide which is best for where you live.

Typically, running costs in the cold zone (e.g. Canberra, Melbourne or Hobart) or hot zone (e.g. Darwin or Brisbane) tend to be higher than for the average zone (e.g. Sydney, Perth and Adelaide). That’s because the air conditioner usually runs for longer in those areas, and may also have to work harder in the more extreme cold or heat.

Our detailed air conditioner reviews include the zone star rating labels for each model where available. We calculate running costs for cold, average and hot zones based on this zoned energy data, for those models that have it.

How to reduce your air conditioner electricity costs

Air con is great, but great big power bills? Not so much. Here are the key things to consider to keep your costs down.

1. Get the right size for your home

Before you buy your air conditioner, make sure you’re choosing the most efficient option for your home.

First, you need to ensure you choose the right size air conditioner.

Too big and you could be using more electricity than you need because the unit may run frequent short cycles to achieve the target temperature. Too small and it will have to work too hard to cool or heat your space.

“Aim for the sweet spot in terms of size,” says Chris.

Second, keep in mind that most models these days are inverter units. This means the air conditioner adjusts its output to the target temperature of the room.

So, if you have a bigger, more powerful air conditioner operating in a well-insulated house, it will be running at quite efficient levels and could be more efficient than a smaller unit that may typically cost less.

Third, if you have a house that’s poorly insulated, a smaller unit is going to be working harder and ending up costing more to run than the bigger unit in the more efficient house.

2. Make sure the unit is installed in the best position

Chris says to get a professional to assess your home and make the best possible recommendation as to where the unit should be located, inside and outside.Ìý

“It won’t make a huge difference to your running costs, but could definitely have an effect,” he says.

“For example, for a typical unit mounted high on a wall, you want to ensure it can blow lengthways across a room without any obstruction – give it a chance to reach across all corners of the room and lower the temperature.

“And for the outside unit, it’s best if it’s not exposed to extreme temperatures. You don’t want the unit to be baking hot or freezing cold, as it’ll have to work harder and therefore cost you more.”

3. Check energy star ratings and understand power consumption

“Look at the unit’s energy star rating, or the running costs that we calculate in our testing based on average usage,” says Chris. “These will give you the best idea of which models are the most cost-effective to run.” 

The Zoned Energy Rating Label (ZERL) gives a seasonal efficiency rating for three climate zones across Australia and New Zealand, which gives you more targeted energy-saving information to help you choose the best appliance for your needs.

At ÌÇÐÄVlog, we regularly find that a unit’s performance doesn’t always match the advertising hype, so be sure to check our air conditioner reviews before you buy to see how models really rate, and what they cost to run.Ìý

What’s the ideal temperature to set for summer?

The difference between the temperature outside and the temperature you set your air conditioner to will have a significant effect on your power bills.Ìý

To give you optimal coolness for the cheapest price, you should aim for a difference of about 8°C between the outside temperature and the temperature you set your air conditioner to.

“The running costs and energy used by your air conditioner can vary hugely based on a number of factors,” says Chris.Ìý

“But generally, for the best efficiency, aim to set your unit around 8°C cooler than the outside temperature.”

Sticking to this 8°C differential will also save on wear and tear on the air conditioner’s motor.Ìý

In general, Chris says, each degree cooler usually adds about 10% to the running cost of your air conditioner.

Obviously this is just a guide, and there’ll be times when you need to crank the air con. Setting the air con to 32°C on a 40°C day isn’t a great idea, no matter how much money you’ll save!

What’s the ideal temperature to set for winter?

When you need to warm your cockles in winter, reverse-cycle air conditioners are one of the most efficient and cost-effective ways to heat individual rooms and large living spaces, beating electric and gas heaters on running costs when we crunched the numbers.

Just like in the summer, the difference between the temperature outside and the temperature you set your air conditioner to will have a significant effect on your power bills.Ìý

And just like in summer, the sweet spot between comfort and cost is a difference of about 8°C between the temperature setting of your air con and the temperature outside.Ìý

(Of course, this rule doesn’t necessarily apply in freezing temperatures: no-one’s going to set their air condition to 3°C when it’s -5°C outside!)

Combined with a well-insulated home and a few other simple tricks (see below), you can stay toasty for less.

10 extra tips to save money on your air con in summer

Don’t let your air con become an energy guzzler. Keep those energy bills down with our expert’s handy tips:

1. Make sure your unit is regularly maintained and the filter kept clean so it can work as efficiently as possible. Learn how to spring clean your air con to save money this summer.
2. Invest in a smart air con with app capability so you can switch it on remotely to cool down the house before you get home, or switch it off if you forgot to when you left the house.
3. Use the eco setting, if your air conditioner has one.
4. If you have ducted air conditioning or more than one unit, use zoned heating and cooling so it’s only operating in areas people are actually using. Or keep doors closed so the air is circulating only in areas being used.
5. Insulate your home. You can lose as much as 35% of your home’s warmth if it’s not insulated. Insulation will also keep your home cooler in summer, so it’s worth the investment.Ìý
6. Consider solar to help reduce your electricity costs. Solar is a considerable investment, but it can significantly reduce how much you pay for cooling and heating your home with air con.
7. Use a pedestal fan or ceiling fan to help circulate the cool or warm air produced by your air conditioner. Find out how a ceiling fan can slash your heating costs in winter.
8. Seal your house so the heat won’t escape. Even simple solutions like towels or door snakes across gaps under your doors can make a difference to keep the heat in, so your air conditioner won’t need to work as hard.Ìý

The post How to save money on your air conditioner cooling costs  appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• Why you should clean your air conditioner
• What happens if you don't clean it?
• How to spring-clean your air conditioner

Cleaning your air conditioner probably isn’t on your list of things to do – but it should be.

It’s not the most exciting task, but unless you’re a fan of huge electricity bills and an uncomfortably hot home, it’s worth the effort.

Why you should clean your air conditioner

A dirty, clogged-up air conditioner won’t be able to do its job properly.Ìý

It’ll struggle to draw in air, cool it and send it back out into your home – and it’ll have to work harder than ever to do it, which means it’ll burn through more electricity to produce less cool air.Ìý

All that extra work can cause it to burn out faster too, which means you’ll have to replace it sooner.

And if the money and comfort aren’t enough of an incentive to give it a clean, there’s also the potential health effects. Mould can grow in a dirty air conditioner, which is not something you want pumped into your home.

What happens if you don’t clean it?

While ÌÇÐÄVlog staff might be good at giving advice, we don’t always follow it ourselves. Pru Engel, ÌÇÐÄVlog’s Audience & Engagement Editor, knew that air conditioner filters need to be cleaned regularly, but she’s a busy working mum and just hadn’t had time to do it.

“We’d been running the air con over winter for heating, and I noticed the two units weren’t working as well as they used to. Then we got a higher than normal electricity bill,” she says.

“Guess what? The filters were horrendously filthy. I’m so embarrassed by how gross they were.ÌýI know that you’re supposed to clean and service your air conditioner regularly, but we’ve lived here for three years and never touched them.”

Since it’d been so long in between services, Pru called in a professional.

“I didn’t tell him I write articles all the time about how to maintain your air conditioner to save on your energy bills,” she laughs.

“He said they weren’t working properly because the air basically couldn’t get through.ÌýThey cleaned the filters, louvres, coils and fins and checked all the parts.ÌýBoth units are working perfectly now!”

How to spring-clean your air conditioner

While we recommend you have your air con serviced regularly, there are a few tasks you can do yourself to keep it running smoothly in between.

These three steps won’t take long but they’ll save you money in the long run, and help you get the most from your air conditioner. Of course, it’s best to read your air con manual before you start as every model is different.

For a detailed run-down on what to do and how often, check our guide to cleaning your air conditioner. We also explain how to troubleshoot common problems with your air con.

1. Dust the dust filters

Pop open the plastic cover and remove the filter (or filters).

Use a brush or vacuum to clean off the dust. If they’re particularly dirty, wash them with some detergent, rinse and make sure they’re dry before you put them back in.

2. Wipe over the louvres

These are the blades that move up, down and side to side to distribute hot or cold air through the room.

Use a dry cloth or your vacuum cleaner to clean up any dust.

3. Clean the outdoor unit

Dust, leaves and cobwebs can accumulate on the outdoor compressor.

Use a brush to clear them away, and use your vacuum to get rid of dust inside the air intake.

The post Spring-clean your air con to save money this summer  appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• What influences the size of air conditioner you need?
• How to calculate what size air conditioner you need
• Air conditioner room size chart: A rough guide
• Why where you live matters
• Why roof insulation matters
• Why you shouldn’t go too big or too small

No matter how hot under the collar you get, buying an air conditioner should never be an impulse purchase. 

It’s an expensive, long-term commitment that has big implications for your power bill and comfort levels alike, so it’s important to do your homework before installing one.

Plus, if you’re going to use it in winter as well (reverse-cycle air conditioning is actually the most efficient way to heat your home), getting it right is extra important as you’ll be relying on it for all your heating and cooling needs.

In a hot country like Australia, it might be tempting to just opt for the biggest air conditioner you can get, but bigger isn’t always better.

So how can you find out the capacity you need? We’ll walk you through everything you need to know.

What influences the size of air conditioner you need?

You may assume that the size of your room dictates the capacity of air conditioner you should buy. 

But although room size is an important consideration, every home is different and there are actually many other factors that will affect your air conditioning capacity requirements.

“Take some time to assess the room before you decide on which air conditioner to buy,” says ÌÇÐÄVlog air conditioning expert Chris Barnes.

“I saved hundreds on my last air conditioner purchase by calculating that a smaller capacity model would suit my home.”

These four things have the biggest impact on what size air conditioning unit you’ll need. When you use an air conditioner size calculator, you’ll get a more accurate estimate if you can enter as many of these details as possible.

1. Room size: What’s the length, width and ceiling height? While floor space is important, so is total volume – a room with high ceilings will require more energy to cool and heat.
2. Insulation: Are the ceilings and walls insulated? What’s underneath and on top of the room?
3. Location: Where do you live? A room in Darwin will need a more powerful air conditioner for cooling, compared to an otherwise identical room in Hobart.
4. Orientation: Which way does the room face? A large north- or west-facing window can let in a lot of heat in summer, whereas a shaded, southern-facing window will be cooler.

How to calculate what size air conditioner you need

Some installers and online calculators offer only a simplistic analysis and may tend to recommend a larger capacity than you really need.

Find a calculator that takes all of the room’s details into account, including window size, shading, window coverings, insulation and local climate. The more information you can include, the more accurate the calculation will be.

The and calculators on , offered by the Australian Institute of Refrigeration, Air Conditioning and Heating (AIRAH), are worth using. 

They allow you to factor in a lot of details about the room, its insulation, window orientation and more, to get an accurate guide to the right air conditioner size.

Alternatively, you can try the calculators on manufacturer and installer websites, but we think these usually tend to overestimate the capacity you need.

Our air conditioner buying guide has lots of info about buying the best air con for your needs, and you can easily compare the cooling capacities of different models in our air conditioner reviews.

Air conditioner room size chart: A rough guide

Although you’ll need to use a calculator that takes a range of factors into account before you decide the capacity you need, having a rough idea can be helpful.

Here’s our guide to the approximate air conditioner capacity (size) you’ll need to cool different room sizes, from a small bedroom through to a large lounge room.

Why where you live matters

As mentioned above, the climate where you live will have a big impact on your air conditioning requirements. 

You’ll need a more powerful unit in Darwin than in Brisbane to deal with the extra heat and humidity, for instance. 

And obviously you’ll need a much larger unit for cooling a home in sunny Perth than you will in Tasmania’s cooler climate.

Why roof insulation matters

Ceiling insulation has the biggest impact on the size of air conditioner you need. 

If you don’t already have it, our experts recommend you consider installing it before you invest in air con, as it can end up saving you money in the long run. 

You can see below the difference roof insulation can make on your air con capacity requirements.

Why you shouldn’t go too big or too small

We’ve provided some rough guides in this article, but we recommend that you do an accurate calculation so you don’t end up with a system that’s drastically over- or under-sized. 

Don’t be tempted to go smaller to save money, or larger to keep your house feeling like a fridge.

You can always use different sized units throughout your house for maximum efficiency – maybe a larger unit in the lounge room and smaller ones in bedrooms and the study.

Remember too that the size of the unit could affect the cost of installation and replacement.

“Bigger isn’t always better, and smaller isn’t always more economical,” says Chris. “Aim for the sweet spot.”

Here’s what can happen if you super-size or skimp on your air con.

Too big

The unit may run frequent short cycles to achieve the target temperature. This can mean:

• the room gets too hot or cold
• the unit doesn’t dehumidify the air enough (so the room feels less comfortable)
• power use increases
• running costs increase
• more wear and tear on the system.

Too small

The unit may have to run at maximum output more often. This can mean:

• the unit dries out the air too much
• more wear and tear on the system
• power use increases.

ÌÇÐÄVlog tip: Choose a model that’s either just the right size, or slightly larger than you’ll need for the room. For example, if the room needs a 6kW model, then go for a unit that’s 6–6.5kW.

The post What size air conditioner do I need? appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

Not only can it reduce your electricity bills, it’ll also help you avoid unexpected costs like technician call-out fees, replacement parts, and even having to buy a whole new machine.Ìý

So while you won’t see the money in your pocket immediately, your future self will thank you for your efforts.Ìý

Plus, the more often you clean your filters, the quicker the job will be each time – so not only will you save money, you’ll also save time.Ìý

Here are the problems a dirty filter can cause and how a quick spruce-up can translate to savings.

Why cleaning your air conditioner filter saves you money

Most people think of air con as a solution to sweltering summer days, but it’s actually also the cheapest way to heat your home. If you’re paying to cool things down, you might as well take advantage of the cheaper heating too, right?

And since home heating and cooling are the biggest contributors to your electricity bill, accounting for about 40% of energy use in the average Australian home, it makes sense to get your air con running as efficiently as possible.

If your air conditioner’s filter is clogged with dust, the air can’t flow through as easily, so it’ll have to work harder. That means that energy use will go up (along with your power bill) and performance will go down.

“There are estimates that a clogged filter can add 5–15% energy consumption onto the machine,” says ÌÇÐÄVlog household expert Chris Barnes.

“What I suspect is that it might use a similar amount of energy but you’re getting up to 15% less performance because it simply can’t move the air through.

“But whichever way you look at it, you’re paying more on your energy bill but getting less performance simply because the air conditioner can’t blow the air out into the room.”

If your air con is playing up, before you book in a technician to fix it, do a quick DIY filter clean. It’s the very first thing a technician would do anyway, so you could avoid having to pay hefty call-out fees if a clean filter sorts the problem.Ìý

Read our step-by-step guide: How to clean your air conditioner filter.

Why cleaning your dishwasher filter saves you money

You’ll not only save money by cleaning your dishwasher filter – you’ll also save time.Ìý

A grubby filter means your dishwasher can start to get whiffy as accumulated food scraps start to decompose, and your dishes won’t get as clean with those food particles potentially being re-deposited on otherwise clean crockery, so you’ll waste time (and water) washing off the bits or even re-running your machine.Ìý

Plus, the more frequently you clean the filter, the less gunk you’ll have to clean off each time, making the job quicker and easier.Ìý

Yes, time is money, but there are other cost savings to be had: cleaning your filter will prevent blockages, which can lead to serious problems (especially if food scraps make their way deep into the machine), so you’ll avoid paying a bomb in technician fees.Ìý

You’ll also save on dishwasher detergent, power and water since you won’t have to re-wash dishes that didn’t come out clean in the first place.Ìý

The biggest saving, though, is the cost of having to replace your dishwasher sooner. Take care of your dishwasher and it’ll last longer, so you won’t need to pay for a new one as frequently.Ìý

Read how to clean your dishwasher filter, plus more dishwasher cleaning tips.Ìý

Why cleaning your vacuum filter saves you money

A dirty vacuum filter really sucks. Firstly, it reduces the suction of your machine so you’ll have to vacuum for longer (and who wants to vacuum any more than they need to?), and secondly it puts more strain on your machine, so it’ll wear out faster.Ìý

A quick clean once a month – or after every few uses, depending on how often you use it – is a good investment in your time and energy. Spending a few minutes taking care of the filter will actually save you time in the long run, as well as saving you money on having to buy a new vacuum or replacement parts.Ìý

If your vacuum has a HEPA filter, it needs regular cleaning too so it’ll work efficiently to remove particles that can affect asthma, dust allergies and sensitivities.

Our vacuum expert explains how to clean your vacuum (including its filters), from regular quick cleans through to once-a-year deeper cleans to keep your machine running as efficiently as possible (and saving you time).Ìý

Why cleaning your dryer filter saves you money

A blocked lint filter is a fire hazard, so your power bill isn’t the only thing at risk if you neglect this – you could be up for thousands (or even hundreds of thousands) of dollars for repairs and replacements if your dryer goes up in flames.

At the merely inconvenient (not the catastrophic) end of the scale, a blocked lint filter will also restrict airflow in your dryer, making it less effective, increasing the time it takes to dry your clothes, and therefore driving up running costs. Clothes dryers are one of the most energy-intensive appliances in your home, so the less you can run it, the better.Ìý

Running your dryer for longer is also hard on your clothes, so you may have to replace them sooner than you’d like.Ìý

Avoiding these 10 common dryer mistakes will make your dryer more efficient, reducing your bills and keeping it running for longer.Ìý

Why cleaning your air purifier filter saves you money

It makes sense: a clean air purifier makes for cleaner air – and this is especially true of keeping the filters clean.

You can wash, dry and reuse most pre-filters and carbon filters, but you’ll need to buy a replacement HEPA filter from time to time. If you give the HEPA filter a gentle brush or vacuum regularly, you won’t have to replace it as often, which will save you money.Ìý

Some air purifiers have separate filters, so you can just buy each one separately as it needs replacing, but others have an all-in-one filter cartridge, which can mean you’re replacing the entire thing when only one of the filter types actually needs replacing.

The more you use your air purifier, the more often you’ll need to replace the filter, so check our detailed review to find the best air purifiers and check annual replacement filter costs before you buy. You can also double-check each purifier’s set-up to see if they have all-in-one cartridges, which could increase the running costs.

Why cleaning your rangehood saves you money

Rangehoods are pretty cheap to run, so electricity use isn’t where your rangehood will cost you. The biggest costs you’ll face are replacement parts and replacing the entire unit due to excessive wear and tear, but regular maintenance can help minimise your spend.

Keeping things clean will help extend the life of the motor since it won’t need to work as hard to circulate the air.Ìý

If you have a ducted rangehood, cleaning the mesh filters regularly will improve the airflow and efficiency – grease and grime can really slow things down.Ìý

Greasy rangehood filters are another fire risk, so it’s worth spending the time cleaning for peace of mind and safety.Ìý

Maintenance costs can add up if you’ve got a recirculating rangehood that uses carbon filters to remove odours, steam and grease and circulate the cleaner air back in the room.

Replacement carbon filters for recirculating rangehoods aren’t cheap: they’re typically $50–60, but can run to more than $200 for some models and need to be replaced anywhere from once a month to a year. However, keeping the mesh filters clean can still help the rangehood work more efficiently.

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On this page:

• Our experts
• How we choose which air conditioners to compare
• How we compare air conditioners
• Air conditioner scoring criteria explained
• Our test lab

Our experts

We’ve been reviewing air conditioners of various sorts for decades now. ÌÇÐÄVlog participates in relevant Australian Standards committees and regulatory forums so we can keep an eye on industry trends and air conditioner regulations. However, we no longer lab test air conditioners (see below for why we changed our testing method and how we go about reviewing them).

How we choose which air conditioners to compare

Our split-system air conditioner reviews focus on inverter reverse-cycle and cooling-only models, as these make up the majority of air conditioner sales. While we no longer put split-system air conditioners through laboratory tests, we do watch for unusual and interesting models and will put these to lab tests if the need arises.

How we compare air conditioners

Our current method

Air conditioners sold in Australia must be tested to the Australian Standard AS/NZS 3823.2 and registered in a government database at . This is to make sure they meet the required Minimum Energy Performance Standards (MEPS) and qualify for a star rating label. Government authorities occasionally perform check-tests on appliances that are subject to MEPS to make sure they meet their required and claimed performance levels.

We source data on the models directly from manufacturers and cross-check it against the government registration database. Scores are then calculated with a lot of number-crunching, spreadsheets and careful data-checking – just the sort of thing ÌÇÐÄVlog people like to do!

This helps us bring you information on more models than ever before, and makes it easy for you to compare them.ÌýNot all brands respond to our survey, and without full information on specifications and ongoing availability, we generally don’t include these brands in our review.

While we’re unable to calculate ease of use, we’ve previously found most models are good or OK in this respect. Our air conditioner buying guide offers tips for choosing a model with a good remote control, as the remote is a key factor in whether an air conditioner is easy to use.

Why we changed our testing method

Before we adopted our current test method in 2013, time and money constraints meant we were only able to review a very small number of air conditioner models – about 20 per year, even though there are a few hundred split-system inverter models on the market at any one time. We could also only cover only one size category at a time – typically small (4kW and below) or large (6kW and higher) models.

On top of that, we often had trouble sourcing models for testing as we needed to test well ahead of the season, and manufacturers often didn’t have their new-season models available in time. Add in the fact that it cost us about $160,000 to buy and test those 20 models each year (at 2013 prices – it would be even more now) and you can see why we looked for a better value proposition for our members.

One of the main reasons we focused our lab tests on inverter air conditioners was that when inverter models started appearing back in the early 2000s, we were concerned that standard tests might not have been measuring their efficiency in a way that reflected their actual performance in a consumer’s home.Ìý

Now, inverter technology is the norm, and after several years of testing inverter models, we no longer have any particular concerns about their typical performance. So we’re comfortable that a ‘desk review’ is appropriate.

Air conditioner scoring criteria explained

For reverse-cycle models, the ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating, our overall score, is made up of:

• cooling efficiency (40%)
• heating efficiency (40%)
• airflow (20%).

For cooling-only models, the ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating is made up of:

• cooling efficiency (80%)
• airflow (20%).

Weightings are in brackets.

A model scoring 90% is excellent, 70% is good, and 50% is borderline. Note that scores for previously tested models can sometimes change from their original published values, as the increasing efficiency and performance of new models occasionally requires us to rescale our scoring method.Ìý

When that happens, older, less efficient models tend to score a bit lower than they did in previous reviews, and sometimes a previously recommended model drops off the recommended list as its score falls below the required level. That doesn’t mean it’s a bad model, simply that better ones have come onto the market.

Cooling and heating efficiency

Cooling and heating efficiency scores reflect how much cooling or heating the unit can deliver, compared to the amount of input power (electricity) it uses. The best scoring models deliver more kWh of cooling or heating per kWh of input energy – the result being they cost less to run.

Because all air conditioners sold in Australia must meet strict Minimum Energy Performance Standards (MEPS) for cooling and heating efficiency, we consider that all the reviewed models are at least OK in this respect. However, we’ve found many models that are much better than simply OK.

We score cooling efficiency based on each model’s rated Annual Energy Efficiency Ratio (AEER), a measure of how much cooling the model delivers for the electricity it uses, plus standby and other non-operating power consumption. The heating efficiency score is based on the model’s rated Annual Coefficient of Performance (ACOP), a similar measure for heating energy delivery.

Any new model registered from April 2020 onwards has a new star rating label, known as the Zoned Energy Rating Label (ZERL). This shows three cooling star ratings and three heating star ratings, based on the climate zone where the unit is installed. Check out our air conditioners buying guide for more details.Ìý

Our review shows this information for those models that have the new star ratings, but there are plenty of older models still on the market without the new label. Once all the models in our review have the new label, we’ll start basing our scores on the zoned energy data instead.

Airflow

Airflow is a measure of how much air the unit puts out on its lowest and highest fan speeds. The lowest fan speed should deliver a gentle breeze – good for the bedroom when you’re sleeping, for example. The highest fan speed should deliver a powerful blast for cooling or heating the room rapidly. A model with a good airflow score has a useful range of fan settings. Some models don’t (the lowest fan speed is too powerful or the highest speed too weak, or both) and get lower scores accordingly.

Scoring the different sizes

We score the small (up to 4kW), medium (4–6°ì°Â) and large (over 6kW) models each on their own scoring scales, because it’s unfair to put them all on one scoring scale. A large 9kW model just doesn’t achieve the same efficiency as a small 2.5kW model. Likewise, large models have more powerful fans and achieve much higher airflows, so we can’t directly compare them to the small or medium models in that respect either.

So while the method for scoring each size category is the same, the actual scale is different for each of the categories. We’ve grouped all sizes together in our air conditioner reviews, but you should only compare scores within each size category. Use the filters to narrow your search by size.

Running costs

We calculate air conditioner running costs so you can compare your options, and we’ve recently changed how we calculate these. Running costs are now based on the energy usage for each model as calculated for the Zoned Energy Rating Label (ZERL), which calculates that model’s typical energy usage in cooling and heating modes in cold, average and hot climate zones. We calculate with electricity priced at 40c/kWh. Our air conditioner buying guide explains the ZERL in more detail.

Some older models still on the market are not registered for the ZERL and for these we can’t calculate a running cost. These will soon either be phased out or re-registered, as all models on the market as of 2025 must be registered to the ZERL.

Typically, running costs in a cold zone (e.g. Canberra, Melbourne or Hobart) or hot zone (e.g. Darwin or Brisbane) tend to be higher than for the average zone (e.g. Sydney, Perth and Adelaide). That’s simply because the air conditioner is usually run for more hours in those zones, and may also have to work harder in the more extreme cold or heat. Inevitably that means it uses more energy.

All that said, the calculated running costs are a guide only – your actual running costs will depend on how much you use your air conditioner, what temperature you set it to, your home’s layout and thermal efficiency, local climate and so on. Check out our tips for saving energy when running your air conditioner.

Our test lab

Testing air conditioners requires a very specific laboratory, with controlled indoor and outdoor temperature and humidity. While ÌÇÐÄVlog does have high-quality laboratories, including thermal labs for testing fridges, we don’t have a lab suited to air conditioner testing – it would be too expensive to construct and maintain.

So instead, when we need an air conditioner tested, we send it to a qualified external lab.

The post How we compare air conditioners appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• What's a portable air conditioner?
• What's a split-system air conditioner?
• Running cost comparison – portable air conditioners vs split-system
• So, which type of air conditioner do you choose?

If you’re looking for an air conditioner to beat the summer heat or winter chill, but you’re worried about the running costs, you might be thinking that a portable air conditioner will be a cheaper option. Well, a portable unit may be much cheaper to buy – no installation costs! – but for cheaper running costs and better performance, a split-system air conditioner of the same capacity is actually a much better bet.

Portable units definitely have some advantages, since installation is so much easier: just plug it in, fit the duct to a window, and turn it on. This is a great option if you’re renting, or just need instant relief. But they simply can’t operate as efficiently as a split-system air conditioner, as we explain below.

We’ll break down the costs for each type – from buying them and installation through to running costs – to help you make the best choice for your home.

What’s a portable air conditioner?

Portable air conditioners are all-in-one units, usually on caster wheels for mobility, and usually with a large-diameter (about 150mm) flexible duct to vent air to the outside, usually through a window. An adjustable window adaptor, often included with the unit, lets you seal the outdoor end into most windows with minimal air leakage. Many models are cooling-only, but some are reverse-cycle for heating as well. They’re best suited to cooling or heating a single room.

They work basically the same way as built-in air conditioning: sucking in warm and humid air, cooling and dehumidifying it, then blowing it back into the room. Single-duct models, with a duct connected to a window to vent heat from the room, can be very effective at cooling most of the room, but they draw the air from the room (in order to cool it) and vent some of it outside.

Venting the hot air outside through the duct results in a net air pressure reduction, so more warm air is drawn into the room from the rest of the house. The portable air conditioner thus faces a continual struggle to cool the room.Ìý

Portable units are also noisier indoors than most split-system air conditioners (which have the advantage of having the noisiest component, the compressor, situated outside).

So while they’re convenient and often comparatively cheaper than split-system air conditioners, single-duct portable air conditioners are usually not as effective, quiet or efficient. ÌÇÐÄVlog members can compare portable air conditioner cooling ability alongside running costs.

What’s a split-system air conditioner?

A split-system air conditioner has two parts: an indoor unit and an outdoor unit, connected by pipes containing refrigerant gas. They’re the most common air conditioner type in Australia, and come in a wide range of capacities to suit room sizes from small single rooms up to large open-plan areas.

They cool a room by extracting heat from the indoor air and shifting that heat via the refrigerant pipes to the outdoor unit (in heating mode, this process is simply reversed). That means the indoor area can be closed up and kept air tight, so hot outside air doesn’t keep coming into the home. That’s a key reason why split-system air conditioners are much more effective at cooling and heating than a portable unit.

Running cost comparison – portable air conditioners vs split-system

The table below shows the comparative costs for portable air conditioners alongside the costs for various sizes of split-system air conditioners. The running costs are based on using the air conditioner for an entire summer season. For split-systems, this is based on their rated annual energy consumption in cooling mode, for an average climate zone. For portables, it’s based running in cooling mode four hours per day for three months. Electricity is priced at 40c/kWh.

The prices for the split-systems are for the unit only, and don’t include installation costs, so you need to factor in another $600–750 to the total cost.Ìý

Most portable air conditioners have a cooling capacity of about 2–4kW, making them roughly equivalent to a small split-system in that respect. As you can see, while a small split-system air conditioner is more expensive to buy and install, it is much more cost-effective to run.Ìý

In fact, the split-system’s actual running costs may be even lower in practice. We’ve based them on the unit’s rated energy usage in cooling mode, but split-system air conditioners these days are inverter models which adjust their output as needed, so in a well-insulated and well-sealed house, they can maintain a comfortable indoor temperature while running at very low power.

So, which type of air conditioner do you choose?

If you’re likely to use your air conditioner a lot, then it’s worth investing in a split-system. The initial expense of buying and installing it will be offset in the long run by lower running costs, and they’re a far better option if you need to cool or heat a big space.

If installing a split-system air conditioner isn’t an option, or if you only need occasional cooling or heating in one room, or you need an option that can be moved about the house as needed, then a portable air conditioner could be the answer.

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On this page:

• Check the instructions
• How to clean the filters and louvres on your air conditioner
• How to clean your air conditioner's outdoor unit
• Getting your air conditioner professionally serviced and cleaned
• Air conditioner cleaning cheat sheet

The following advice is based on split-system air conditioners (the most common type in Australian homes) but it broadly applies to ducted and wall-window models too.

Check the instructions

Your air conditioner should have come with an instruction manual that details how to access and clean the air filters and any other user-maintainable parts. If you don’t have the book any more, you may be able to download a copy from the manufacturer’s website.

Need to know: Make sure the unit is turned off at the wall before you do any maintenance on it.

How to clean the filters and louvres on your air conditioner

Clean the indoor unit dust filters

The indoor air conditioner unit has dust filters that need regular cleaning. The more clogged the filter, the harder the air conditioner has to work to push air through it. That can mean higher running costs.

It’s usually a simple matter of popping open the plastic cover and removing the filter (there may be more than one). If you can’t easily reach the indoor unit, use a small stepladder.

Manufacturers usually recommend that you clean the dust filters every few weeks, but it really depends how often you use your air conditioner. Simply put, the more you use it, the more often you should clean the filters. At the least, aim to clean them a couple of times a year. For example, if you mainly use the unit in summer, clean the filters in spring so it’s ready for the peak season, and again when the hot season is over.

• Take the dust filters outside for a good brush or shake. They can usually also be vacuumed for a thorough clean – use the vacuum cleaner’s dusting brush head if you have one.Ìý
• If the dust filters are very dirty and grimy, you can wash them in warm water with some mild detergent and rinse them clean. Make sure they are completely dry before putting them back in the unit.
• If the filters are damaged, replace them with new ones (check the manual or the manufacturer’s website for where to get spare parts).

Some models also have an air purification filter (such as an ionising filter) that can be removed and cleaned. This type of filter will eventually need to be replaced, perhaps every year or two, depending on usage. Check the instructions for how to clean or replace this filter.

How to clean your air conditioner’s louvres

You may also be able to remove the indoor unit’s louvres (the oscillating blades that direct the air flow). Give them, and the space behind them inside the unit, a thorough clean with a dry cloth or with the vacuum cleaner. Again, make sure the air conditioner unit is powered off before you do this.

In dusty or humid areas

If you live in a very dusty or humid environment, and use your air conditioner frequently, you might be surprised at how much dust and mould can build up inside the air conditioner. This can lead not only to the unit losing performance as it clogs up, but also to mould spores growing and being blown into your home, as well as water leakage if the indoor unit’s drainage pipe gets blocked by gunk.Ìý

Regular cleaning of the dust filters and louvres will help avoid this. Running the unit in fan-only mode (or running a ‘dry out’ program if the unit has one) will help keep the interior of the indoor unit dry. Nevertheless, an occasional professional service and clean may be a good idea.

How to clean your air conditioner’s outdoor unit

Keep the outdoor compressor unit clear of surrounding grass and plants, and brush away dust, leaves and cobwebs regularly.Ìý

Running a vacuum cleaner over the air intake can help clear dust from inside.

We don’t recommend that you open up the unit to clean its internal components – leave that to a professional service.

Getting your air conditioner professionally serviced and cleaned

Your air conditioning system should be professionally serviced regularly – the service person will check the refrigerant gas levels, test the thermostat and make sure all the internals are in good condition. This will keep the unit running for many years.

Some manufacturers recommend the air conditioner should be serviced once a year. Others say that as long as you follow the instructions and regularly clean the filters and units, you’ll only need to have the air conditioner serviced if a fault develops.

We asked ÌÇÐÄVlog members about their air conditioner cleaning habits. Most said they clean the filters a few times each year, but only call for a service every few years or when the unit develops a fault. If in doubt, check the manual for your model or call the manufacturer for their advice.

Professional cleaning

You can have your air conditioner cleaned by a professional. A maintenance service should include cleaning of internal components such as coils, fins and drainage. This is especially worth considering if you live in a very dusty or humid area, where dust and mould build-up inside the unit is a risk.

Air conditioner cleaning cheat sheet

Every month

• If you use the air conditioner regularly, run the air conditioner in fan-only mode occasionally to evaporate any moisture inside the indoor unit, which helps prevent mould and odours.

Bi-annually

• Clean the dust filter screens in the indoor unit of a split-system air conditioner, or as per the instructions for your ducted system. Do this more often if your air conditioner is always on, you live in a very dusty environment, or you experience a noticeable drop in performance.Ìý
• Clean any extra filters, such air purifying filters, as per the instructions.
• Wipe down the indoor unit or any ducts or vents with a soft damp cloth, both inside the unit (as far as you can safely reach) and the exterior.

Annually

• Clean the outdoor unit with a soft brush or broom, and remove vegetation, obstructions, spider webs etc. as necessary.

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