But a dud dehumidifier will only extract one thing: the dollars in your bank account.

Not only can dehumidifiers be expensive to buy, they can be pricey to run, so choosing a poor-performing model will see you losing money twice over.

One dehumidifier in our review scored just 24% for water removal.

With a score that poor, you might find that a better use of your cash is to use a fan or a cheap product like DampRid.

Priced between $119 and $419, the four worst performing products in our test fall at the cheapest end of the price range for dehumidifiers and, unfortunately, we’ve found that cheaper models don’t always perform as well.

However, if you can stretch your budget a bit, you’ll have more luck: eight products recommended by our experts cost $600 or less.

Breville LAD208WHT

• ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating: 54%
• Water removal score: 28%
• Price: $419

This dehumidifier received one of the lowest water removal scores – just 28% – which hurts considering it costs $419.

It fares well for energy efficiency, which means you’ll save a bit of money on its running costs.

(Though that’s arguably not that helpful if it’s not actually doing the job you bought it to do).

If you can stretch your budget a little further, our review has uncovered other models that will give you much better overall performance for your money – in fact, we recommend a few models that cost less than $450.

Don’t write the brand off completely though – other Breville models fared better in our testing, so do your research to ensure you buy the right one.

Read the full Breville LAD208WHT review.

Kogan KADEHUM6LFA 

• ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating: 55%
• Water removal score: 24%
• Price: $119

This Kogan klutz scored just 24% for water removal, which was the lowest score received by any model in our testing.

In fact, both Kogan dehumidifiers we tested make this list to avoid, which means you probably want to avoid the brand altogether if you’re in the market for this kind of appliance. Not only do they not perform well, but they also offer only a poor one-year warranty.Ìý

This model did receive a rating of ‘very good’ for energy efficiency and is easy to use, but how beneficial is that if it can’t do the one job you need it to do well? 

Read the full Kogan KADEHUM6LFA review. 

Kogan 2 in 1 Dehumidifier and Air Purifier KAS2IN1DAFA

• ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating: 56%
• Water removal score: 32%
• Price: $330

This Kogan option will give you a dehumidifier and an air purifier in the one appliance. It might sound great and space-saving to have a 2 in 1 appliance but not if it can’t get the job done – as we found with this model.

Its performance is less than impressive.

It may be energy efficient and easy to use but it rated ‘poor’ for where it matters most, scoring only 32% for water removal.

Read the full Kogan 2 in 1 Dehumidifier and Air Purifier KAS2IN1DAFA review.

Beurer LE30

• ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating: 56%
• Water removal score: 31%
• Price: $400

This dehumidifier from Beurer is very easy to use and offers very good energy efficiency, but that doesn’t make up for the fact that it scores poorly for water removal, scoring only 31%.

It also has one of the smallest tank capacities out of the models we tested.

You’d be disappointed if you spent $400 on this model to find it can’t do the one job you need it to do. If you’re willing to spend a little more, there are other options that we’ve tested that’ll give you better performance.

Read the full Beurer LE30 review.

The post Dehumidifiers to avoid buying appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

Is your home feeling a little damp and soggy?

If your home is rife with condensation or has suffered a leak or water damage, it’s not only unpleasant to live with but can eventually lead to mould, flaking paintwork and further damage to your property.Ìý

Add high levels of humidity, and your home could be a breeding ground for mould and dust mites, which can trigger asthma and other health problems. 

Here’s how a dehumidifier can help. 

What does a dehumidifier do?

A dehumidifier removes moisture from the air, helping prevent mould.

They mostly work by drawing air in, then filtering and cooling it to condense moisture. It’s then reheated before warmer and dryer air is released. 

“Dehumidifiers are a good option if you have persistent humidity or dampness problems, or if your home has been affected by a flood or leak and you’re trying to dry it out,” says ÌÇÐÄVlog household expert Chris Barnes.

Are dehumidifiers worth it?

Yes, if you’ve got damp problems.

Broadly speaking, cheaper models have fewer features, a smaller tank capacity and may not be as efficient at water removal. Pricier models typically have a better water-removal capability, higher energy efficiency, more features and a larger tank capacity. That said, they’ll usually be larger, heavier and often noisier.

“Dehumidifiers can be expensive to buy, and noisy to run,” says Chris. “They’ll also add to your electricity bill, as they can use a fair bit of power, which will add up if you have to run them for long periods of time.”

In summary? It largely depends on how big your property is, how big your damp problem is… and how big your budget is. 

“They can make a big difference to a persistently damp home and may save you from costly repairs or health problems in the long run,” concludes Chris.

Will a dehumidifier help after a flood, leak or water damage? 

A dehumidifier can certainly help after a flood or a water leak in your home. They won’t pump water out of the house, but they will help remove water from the air, to keep the indoor humidity down to a comfortable level. 

If your home furnishings have been soaked by floodwater, then running a dehumidifier in the room will help to dry them out faster.

You’ll want a model with a large water collection tank, since it’ll be pulling a lot of water from the air (be prepared to empty the tank frequently), or one with continuous drainage (with a drainage hose connected to empty straight into a drain).

But be warned – any carpet or furniture that’s been badly water damaged will probably be beyond the powers of the dehumidifier to help.

How long should I run a dehumidifier after a flood or leak?

You’ll probably need to run the dehumidifier for a long time – up to several days – after the home is emptied of water, so check our dehumidifier reviews to find one that’s not just effective at drying the air, but that also doesn’t cost too much to run. 

They can also be a bit noisy, but that might be the least of your worries after a flood. If your home has escaped flooding but is just damp inside from incessant rainy weather, then keeping a dehumidifier running at low level can help keep the indoors more comfortable and protect your furnishings from damp and mould. 

If you live in a warm climate, then a refrigerant model is probably your best choice. If dampness mainly happens in cold seasons, then consider a desiccant model. We explain the different types below.

My home has never flooded – do I still need a dehumidifier?

It depends on your home’s humidity levels. The National Asthma Council Australia advises that the humidity in your home should be between 30% and 50%, so a hygrometer – which measures relative humidity – could be worth buying. 

However, if your home doesn’t have good airflow, it may already be showing signs of damp and high humidity: a musty odour, condensation on windows, or mould. 

Can I use DampRid instead of a dehumidifier?

If you’re dealing just with low-level damp problems, or just a small area in your house, you could try a desiccant product like DampRid. It’ll set you back around $6.50 per pack, rather than the hundreds of dollars that dehumidifiers cost.

We put DampRid to work in a chamber about the size of a closet that was set to 80% humidity (with a fan for air movement) to see how it fared, and it didn’t do too badly: in three days it had collected nearly half a cup of water and reduced the humidity to 43%. 

It’s certainly no match for a dehumidifier (even one that doesn’t perform well), so it’s not a solution to serious damp problems, but it could be a more affordable solution for occasional or low-level damp problems, even if you need to buy a few packs. 

Want to know more and hear what our expert says? Here’s how it compared: DampRid vs dehumidifiers: Does DampRid really work?

The different types of dehumidifier

There are two main types of dehumidifiers: refrigerants and desiccants. 

Refrigerant dehumidifiers

“These use the same technology as a fridge,” says Chris. “They draw in air, cool it to condense the water it contains, then warm it and blow it back out. 

“It’s easier for them to cool the air if it’s already warm, so they work best in moderate or warmer climates. However, the released warmer air might be undesirable in hot climates.”

Refrigerant models tested in our dehumidifier product reviews were more energy efficient than desiccant models, had larger tanks and better water removal. But they were also larger, heavier and noisier.

Desiccant dehumidifiers

“These models use a slowly rotating disc or belt of material that absorbs moisture from the air,” says Chris.

“The damp section then moves through a drying process, which evaporates the water and collects it in a tank.”

Desiccant models tend to perform similarly no matter what the air temperature is, so can be better in cooler climates, where a refrigerant model may struggle. But regardless of climate “a refrigerant will usually outperform a desiccant”, says Chris.

The desiccants we tested typically had a higher running cost and smaller tanks, but tended to be lighter, more compact and more portable. 

Are dehumidifiers good for drying clothes?

Yes. A dehumidifier can be used to help your clothes dry faster, and can reduce or prevent the buildup of mould and dust that can result from drying your laundry indoors. 

Most of the models in our latest dehumidifier review have a specific laundry setting for this purpose.

The laundry function on many dehumidifiers helps dry washing more efficiently indoors by pulling excess moisture from the air. They’re no match for tumble dryers, but they’re still a great option if you don’t have outdoor drying space, especially during colder months.

“The moisture has to go somewhere, and if your home doesn’t have good airflow to let moist air escape, you can end up with damp walls and furniture – perfect conditions for mould,” says Chris.

“A dehumidifier can speed up indoor clothes drying and make it safer.”

What should I look for when buying a dehumidifier?

First off, consider how you’ll be using it. 

“In colder areas (say, below 20°°ä), a desiccant model may be best, and for warmer areas, consider a refrigerant model,” says Chris. 

Other features to consider include energy efficiency, running costs and water-removal effectiveness, as well as the tank size – ideally it should hold at least four litres of water so you’re not constantly emptying it. 

“If you’ll be running the dehumidifier a lot, a model with continuous drain might be useful,” adds Chris. 

Also consider noise, especially if it’s intended for bedrooms or living areas.

What size dehumidifier do I need?

A model with a higher capacity tank will tackle moisture problems faster, especially in a larger room. Most models have a recommended room size, so check this when shopping around. 

“It also depends on how damp the room is,” says Chris. “Look at the rated water-removal rate and scale up if the room is unusually damp. For a standard-sized room (say, 30m²) you might need a 20L model, but if it’s very damp, you might want to consider a slightly bigger model.”

However, size affects weight. Larger dehumidifiers can weigh up to 20kg – not ideal if you’re carting it up and down stairs.

How much do they cost?

Dehumidifiers can cost from around $100 up to over $1600. How much do you have to spend to get a reliable model? In our latest dehumidifier review, the average price of models recommended by ÌÇÐÄVlog experts is $623. 

But you’ll also want to consider ongoing expenses. In terms of running costs, models can range from seven cents to 29c an hour, which can soon add up. Aim for a balance between running costs and effectiveness.

The post What does a dehumidifier do and is it worth getting one? appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

This is not great news if your home is susceptible to unsightly and unhealthy mould or damp problems.

Dehumidifiers reduce condensation and limit the impacts of persistent dampness and mould, but they can also be expensive. The models we’ve reviewed cost anywhere from $200 up to over $1699, and there’s also the electricity costs to factor in.

If your home has a damp issue but you can’t quite stretch to spending hundreds of dollars on a dehumidifying appliance, you may have considered picking up a moisture-absorbing product such as DampRid from your local supermarket or hardware for less than ten bucks.Ìý

But how effective is DampRid in dealing with dampness? We put it to the test by measuring its moisture-absorbing capabilities against some dehumidifier appliances. Here’s what we found.

What is DampRid?

DampRid is a moisture absorber that uses calcium chloride crystals to absorb excess moisture in the air. The liquid that collects in the DampRid container can be disposed of by either flushing down the toilet or down your sink.Ìý

Other brands of moisture-absorbing products that you’ll find in supermarkets and hardware stores include Hippo and DampFree. For the purposes of this comparison, however, we looked specifically at DampRid.Ìý

DampRid comes in refillable and disposable containers and claims to last between 45 days to six months, depending on the product type.

Does DampRid work?

Yes. ÌÇÐÄVlog household products expert Chris Barnes says: “We put a DampRid container in a sealed test chamber about the size of a closet with 80% humidity and a fan for air movement.”

“Within three days, DampRid reduced humidity to 43% and collected almost half a cup of water.”

Is DampRid as good as a dehumidifier?

No. Chris says:Ìý“Our testing found DampRid is nowhere near as rapid or effective as a good dehumidifier, but for its price, it is an option worth considering for low-level damp problems.ÌýÌý

When we checked how DampRid compared in a mild 65% humidity test against all the currently available dehumidifiers in our review, we found:

• DampRid removed 2ml of water on average from the air per hourÌý
• The worst dehumidifier in our review removed 113ml of water from the air per hour (however the worst we ever tested removed only 10mlÌý per hour)
• The best dehumidifier removed a mighty 388ml of water from the air per hour

So if you’re facing serious ongoing dampness problems, a good dehumidifier is a much better solution and investment.

When to use DampRid or a similar moisture-absorbing product

While the best dehumidifiers on the market will give you almost instant dehumidification, absorbing hundreds of grams of water in just an hour, DampRid can do the trick (albeit more slowly) in some cases for a fraction of the price.Ìý

“If you have low-level dampness in small or confined areas of your house, or just want to keep your closets dry, DampRid and equivalent products are not a bad solution. They are cheaper and they work, just at a slower pace,” says Chris.Ìý

However, for serious dehumidification in homes with severe mould and dampness, you’ll need to consider your home’s damp-proofing and ventilation, and/or buy a good-quality dehumidifier.

Is DampRid toxic?

The active ingredient in DampRid is calcium chloride, a commonly used chemical in household products. The product should always be used following instructions and should not be ingested, inhaled or come into contact with eyes or skin as it can cause irritation.Ìý

It should also be placed out of the reach of children and pets. The product could become hazardous if used off-label (such as if people have prolonged or constant exposure to the product).Ìý

Tips for using moisture-absorbing products such as DampRid

• Moisture-absorbing products will not absorb standing water, only moisture from the air. If you need to extract water from a car or enclosed space, use a pump or wet-dry vacuum.Ìý
• Open doors, windows and vents to allow proper circulation and air flow.
• Use in conjunction with fans to speed up drying if possible (likely not suitable if you’re using the moisture-absorbing product in an enclosed space such as a wardrobe).
• Moisture-absorbing products will need to be replaced more often in high-humidity conditions. Check regularly.Ìý
• Ensure you keep out of reach of children and pets, and avoid contact with eyes and skin.

The post DampRid vs dehumidifiers: Does DampRid really work to combat mould and damp? appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

Following the wet summer, many of us have started closing up our windows against the winter chill.

But the Bureau of Meteorology is predicting above-average temperatures across most of Australia this winter.

Between the wet summer, the warmer winter, and the reduced air flow in our homes, you might be bracing for the mould and damp that spring up on walls and ceilings, in cupboards or in bathrooms.Ìý

Mould is not only unpleasant and unsightly, but it can also become a health hazard if it gets out of control.Ìý

It can wreak havoc in your home if unchecked, so it’s important to try to get on top of it early, especially if you’ve noticed signs of high humidity in your home, such as condensation on windows, wet patches on walls, a musty smell or mildew in the bathroom and on surfaces (including your clothes and soft furnishings).Ìý

ÌÇÐÄVlog experts share their handy tips for what you can do to prevent mould before it even takes hold, as well as hsome products and appliances that can help you deal with damp and mould (plus those that won’t), how to clean it off yourself – and when to call in the experts.

How to prevent mould and dampÌý

The best way to protect your home from mould and damp is to prevent it from forming in the first place. (We explain further down how to minimise the spread and manage it once it’s taken hold.)

You can’t control the weather, but you can control what’s happening inside your house to a certain degree (except for in a flood or extreme weather event, obviously!).Ìý

Our tips

Here are some tips for stopping mould and damp before they become a problem:

• Do what you can to minimise moisture entering your home: check for broken tiles and roof leaks, clear out your gutters and downpipes, assess the state of your windows and external doors and install weather seals if needed.Ìý
• Ensure good ventilation: keeping air flowing through your house will help prevent humidity and therefore moisture and mould. Open up the house when you can to air it out.Ìý
• Avoid drying clothes indoors: this will add to the humidity in your home. If you just can’t avoid it, you can use a dehumidifier on ‘laundry’ mode or a dryer. (See next point about what to buy.)Ìý
• Buy a heat pump condenser clothes dryer: vented dryers pump humid air back out into the room, but heat pump condenser dryers condense the moisture and collect it in a reservoir. They’re more expensive to buy but can help minimise moisture.Ìý
• If buying one of these dryers isn’t an option, check to see if your vented dryer can be fitted with a venting/ducting kit to redirect the humid air outside.
• Install an exhaust fan in your bathroom: this will help minimise the humidity. They’re also a good idea for your laundry if you’re using a vented dryer.
• Make informed choices about heating and cooling: unflued gas heaters can release moisture into the air, and having your air conditioning set to freezing when it’s boiling outside can cause condensation to form.Ìý
• Keep on top of the cleaning: mould needs organic matter to feed on, such as dust, dead skin cells and pet dander, so try to dust and vacuum regularly.Ìý

Appliances that can help you prevent or manage mould and damp

Even if you’ve done everything you can to prepare your home, chances are you could still find yourself dealing with mould, mildew and damp this winter.

But some appliances can keep a lid on the humidity – here’s what to use and how to use it to prevent mould from taking hold.

Dehumidifiers

If you have persistent damp problems – and especially if you’re renting and can’t renovate – or you’ve suffered a leak or mild flooding, then a dehumidifier can really help. It essentially works by removing moisture from the air, which helps to prevent or minimise mould.Ìý

There are two different types of dehumidifier: refrigerant dehumidifiers are best for hot, humid conditions; desiccant dehumidifiers are best for cold, damp conditions.Ìý

Dehumidifiers aren’t always cheap – they can range from less than $200 up to over $1000.Ìý

Almost all the models our experts recommend cost $500 or more. The cheapest models tended to perform poorly, with the cheapest dehumidifier we tested scoring just 3% for water removal.Ìý

But don’t buy on price alone: not all the expensive models make our recommended list, so spending more isn’t necessarily a guarantee of good performance.Ìý

Our expert dehumidifier reviews include information about features, running costs and capacity, and let you sort models by humidifier type, brand and price to help you choose the right one for you.

Air conditioners

Most people think of air con in terms of summer, but it’s actually the most cost-effective way to heat your home in winter.Ìý

Air conditioners dry the air as they heat or cool it, so they do have some dehumidifying properties.Ìý

Many models actually have specific dehumidify or ‘dry’ modes (a mild cooling mode that focuses on dehumidification), so check your manual before you drop any cash on a dehumidifier.Ìý

Ceiling fans and pedestal fans

Good air flow is vital to keeping mould at bay, and ceiling fans are an efficient way to keep air moving in your home. They’re also inexpensive to run, averaging $25 a year for AC (alternating current) and $12.87 a year for DC (direct current).Ìý

Ceiling fans aren’t just for summer. When you run a heater, the hot air naturally rises up towards the ceiling – which obviously doesn’t help keep you warm down on the floor.Ìý

But switching your fans to ‘winter’ or ‘reverse’ mode at the start of the cold season will circulate the warm air through the room, keeping you warmer and making your heater run more efficiently. Running a heater and ceiling fan together can slash your winter heating costs.

And even though you can spend hundreds of dollars on a designer model, a number of ceiling fans recommended by our experts cost $350 or less.Ìý

Even cheaper to buy and run are pedestal fans, which can be handy if you want to direct a blast of air at a specific area that needs ventilation. And running a fan on low for eight hours a day for six months of the year will cost less than $10 for many fans.Ìý

You can pick up a pedestal fan that scores well in ÌÇÐÄVlog pedestal fan reviews for as little as $17.Ìý

How to clean mould yourself – and when to call in the experts

When you spot mould forming on surfaces, your first instinct may be to head to the supermarket and throw every cleaning product that has the word ‘mould’ in its name into the trolley.

This can be a costly exercise, and ÌÇÐÄVlog experts say it’s also unnecessary.

“Most commercially available mould cleaning products use bleach (often listed as sodium hypochlorite) as an active ingredient, but the concentration of bleach in these products marketed as ‘mould killers’ is often five percent or less,” ÌÇÐÄVlog expert Ashley Iredale says.

“While they will probably help remove mould from the surface you’re cleaning, you need a concentration of bleach to be at about 10% to kill fungi.”

Bleach has a short shelf life and loses potency quickly, so if products have been on shelves for an extended period of time, they become even more ineffective.

Don’t underestimate vinegar and water

You don’t need to fork out more money for specialist mould-cleaning products, as a standard cheaper multipurpose cleaner or even a mixture of plain old vinegar and water (80% vinegar to 20% water) applied with a microfibre cloth will do the trick. Vinegar can cause mould to overeat and die.

But if you have a serious mould problem, or it’s grown on something super-porous, such as a textile, clothing or furniture, there’s a good chance it can’t be completely removed and the item may need to be thrown out.

Same goes for mould that’s spread its evil spores into your bathroom grout – it can be virtually impossible to get rid of completely, so the area may have to be regrouted.

When do you need professional mould cleaning?

If you only clean the visible signs of mould and don’t solve the underlying issues causing it, the mould will keep returning. If you have mild surface mould, regular cleaning and improvements in ventilation (or using some of our methods above) will probably be enough.Ìý

But if there’s dense, black mould covering a significant portion of your home, it’s probably time to call in the experts for professional removal. This can be expensive, with costs ranging anywhere from a few hundred dollars to a few thousand, depending on the extent of the problem.Ìý

But then, professionals can help identify the source of the mould and remove it, potentially saving you more extensive damage and pricey repairs down the track.

Tackling mould if you’re renting

If you’re a renter, and the mould is caused by a leak in the roof, a faulty pipe or gutters or other structural faults, your landlord is responsible for fixing it and remediating the damage.Ìý

But mould isn’t always caused by these issues and some landlords tell tenants they’re responsible for cleaning the mould themselves, and for keeping the property well ventilated.

In Australia, landlords have a general obligation to make sure the homes they rent out are in a reasonable state of cleanliness and fit for habitation by the tenant. But there are no clear-cut laws laid out that make landlords accept responsibility for mould.Ìý

If you have a mould problem, report the issue to your landlord or real-estate agent, take photos and – crucially – document any communication in case you need to go to a tenancy tribunal.Ìý

Find out more about black mould and renters’ rights.

The post How to protect your home from damp, moisture and mould appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

The air in your home can have a big impact on how you feel and whether you’re comfortable in your house. Things like itchy skin, sneezing and mildew can be signs that you might need an appliance to treat the air in your home.Ìý

But the options are many and confusing: humidifier, dehumidifier or air purifier? Refrigerant or desiccant? Warm or cool mist? HEPA or carbon filters?

Many of these appliances aren’t cheap, so it’s important to understand how they work to make sure you’re buying the right one for your needs.Ìý

We’ll explain how each appliance works and how to tell if you need one.

What is a humidifier best for and how does it work?

When the cold weather hits and it’s time to crank up the heater, you might find you’re struggling with dry skin and chapped lips. That’s because some heaters (and air conditioners too) can really dry out the air.Ìý

If the humidity is too low in your home, you’ll notice more static electricity in the air and you might suffer from dry skin, eye irritation, nasal dryness and allergy symptoms.

Humidifiers transform water into water vapour and disperse it through a room to help increase the humidity level.Ìý

Most importantly, they can help some allergies and skin conditions that are exacerbated by dry air. Some people find them helpful for relieving cold symptoms or other respiratory conditions, and can help you get a better night’s sleep while you’re unwell.Ìý

There are different types of humidifiers, some of which aren’t suitable for every situation.ÌýRead more aboutÌýwhat you need to know when buying a humidifier for your home.Ìý

What’s the difference between a vaporiser and a humidifier?

A vaporiser is similar to a humidifier in that it puts moisture back into the air, but it does it in a different way.Ìý

“The main difference is that a vaporiser uses steam as the way to get moisture into the air,” says ÌÇÐÄVlog expert Denis Gallagher.Ìý

“By contrast, a humidifier uses mist, which may or may not be visible. A vaporiser releases a lot of steam into the air, while the humidifier is a bit more measured.”

How do dehumidifiers work and what are they best for?

With La Niña dumping large quantities of water across Australia in the last year or so, dehumidifiers have been in high demand as people seek help drying out their homes, either from water ingress and leaks or just the humidity.Ìý

Signs of high humidity in your home are condensation on windows, wet patches on walls, a musty smell, dust mites, and mould and mildew in the bathroom and on surfaces throughout your home (including your clothes and soft furnishings).Ìý

Dust mites and mould are two common triggers for asthma and allergy, so it’s important to stay on top of them if you have any sensitive people living in your home.

Dehumidifiers work in the opposite way to humidifiers – they take moisture from the air to reduce the humidity. You might need one if your home has damp problems, if you’ve been affected by floods or water leaks, or if you’re finding mould and mildew throughout your home.Ìý

Dehumidifiers are also great if you need to dry your laundry indoors – they can speed up the drying process, as well as reduce condensation and the likelihood of mould developing from the moisture in the air. Some dehumidifiers even have a laundry setting.Ìý

Want to know more? We’ll explain the different types of dehumidifiers and how to use them in our dehumidifier buying guide.Ìý

OurÌýexpert dehumidifier reviewsÌýinclude information about features, running costs and capacity, and allow you to sort by humidifier type, brand and price to help you choose the right model for you.

Air purifiers

When large parts of the east coast were affected by terrible bushfires in 2019, many families used air purifiers to remove smoke particles that were choking the air.Ìý

They’re also invaluable for families who suffer from asthma and allergies as they can reduce symptoms caused by airborne allergens. They can also remove nasties like viruses, bacteria and mould spores – although there are some limitations. (See our article on how air purifiers deal with viruses and bacteria.)

Air purifiers are quite different to humidifiers and dehumidifiers in that they don’t affect humidity levels. Instead, they draw in air from a room and filter it to remove pollutants like dust, pollen, pet dander, smoke particles, volatile organic compounds (VOCs), mould spores and germs. They then circulate the cleaned air back into the room.Ìý

You might need an air purifier for these reasons:

• To help with asthma and allergies, particularly to dust and pollen.Ìý
• To help keep the air clear of some bacteria and viruses if you have sick people at home.Ìý
• If you smoke inside your home.Ìý
• If your neighbourhood has pollution problems, such as being near a major road or in an area affected by bushfires, or if you live in a dusty part of the world.

Getting the right air purifier for your needs is important to your family’s health. Our expert explains what to look for when buying an air purifier for your home.Ìý

Our expert air purifier reviews include useful information about running costs, capacity and replacement filter costs, plus you can narrow your search by price, filter type and pollutant removal score to make sure you’re buying the best model for your needs.Ìý

The post Humidifiers vs dehumidifiers vs air purifiers appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• Our expert testers
• How we choose what we test
• How we test dehumidifiers
• Customised tests
• Test criteria explained
• Our test lab

We lab test dehumidifiers to find out which ones really work so you can choose the best one for your needs. Here’s how we go about it.

Our expert testers

ÌÇÐÄVlog maintains a highly professional NATA-accredited laboratory and the vast majority of our product testing is done in-house. However, some tests – including dehumidifiers – demand particular expertise and equipment that we don’t have, so in these cases we engage an accredited external lab to do the testing according to our requirements.

How we choose what we test

With so many models to choose from, what makes us choose one dehumidifier to test over another? Like with most of our product testing, our aim is to test the most popular models on the market and what you’re most likely to see in stores.

We survey manufacturers to find out about their range of dehumidifiers, we check market sales information, and we also check for any member requests to test specific models. We then put together a final list of products that goes to our buyers. They then head out to retailers and buy each product, just as a regular consumer would. We do this so we can be sure the machines haven’t been ‘tweaked’ in any way for better performance.

How we test dehumidifiers

Water removal and energy efficiency

The dehumidifiers are set up in a temperature- and humidity-controlled test chamber measuring 5m x 6m x 2.4m, about the size of a living room. For each model, the lab measures the amount of water removed in three tests at different temperature/humidity combinations that reflect damp winter climates:

• 8°°ä / 90% relative humidity
• 12°°äÌý/ 75% relative humidity
• 16°°ä / 65% relative humidity.

We’ve found the best-performing dehumidifiers remove more than twice the volume of water compared with the worst models at the coldest temperatures.

Cold, humid conditions present a worst-case scenario for most dehumidifiers, as they usually use refrigeration technology. It’s easier for a refrigeration dehumidifier to extract moisture from warm air than from cold air (which is why manufacturers usually quote removal rates at conditions that make their machines look the best – typically 30°°ä and 80% relative humidity), because it’s easier for them to cool hot air (in order to condense the water from it) than to further cool air that’s already cold.Ìý

To see how a desiccant dehumidifier compares with a refrigeration model in hot humid conditions, we’ve conducted tests in 30°°ä and 80% relative humidity, and also 25°°ä and 70% relative humidity, using desiccant models and refrigeration models.

All performed OK, but the refrigeration models could extract up to four times as much water in hot conditions as they did in cold conditions.Ìý

When measuring the water removal, the lab also measures the energy consumption of the dehumidifier. From this we can calculate how many millilitres of water the model extracts from the air per watt of electricity used, and therefore how energy-efficient the model is in comparison to others we’re testing. We also measure how well the claims of the dehumidifier match up to our findings.

Ease of use

The lab testers assess each model for ease of accessing and emptying the water tank, quality of instructions and labels, using the controls, mobility of the unit and how easy it is to clean.

Noise

We measure the noise of the unit while it’s running (these results are comparative only – what you actually hear depends on the environment). Most measure upwards of 50dB, which is enough to potentially be annoying if you’re trying to watch TV or sleep.

Running costs

These are the approximate per-hour cost of running the unit and the electricity cost for the unit to extract 10 litres of water. The latter figure often shows that a model that uses less power, but is slow to extract water, can cost the same to run as a model with higher consumption but faster extraction.Ìý

Customised tests

Occasionally we test an unusual model or type of dehumidifier that demands a different approach to testing.

For example, we tested a small commercial unit, the Ecor Pro DH800, which is designed to be permanently installed. It doesn’t have a water collection tank or drainage hose, but instead dries the air via a desiccant, vents the moisture-laden air outdoors, and blows dry air back in the room.Ìý

This meant the lab couldn’t simply measure the collected water to assess its performance during the usual tests. Instead, they carefully measured the temperature and humidity of the three air streams (the air inlet, the wet air outlet and the dry air outlet), and used this data to calculate the total amount of water removed from the test room’s air.

We also tested DampRid, a popular chemical-based moisture absorber. It works much more slowly than dehumidifier appliances, and isn’t really meant to dry out a whole room – it’s mainly for use in small enclosed spaces such as wardrobes and closets.Ìý

So in addition to the usual tests, the lab built a sealed cube, three cubic metres in volume, filled with humid air at approximately 80%RH, to simulate a damp closet. The DampRid container was put inside and the internal air monitored for temperature and humidity over about 60 hours.

Test criteria explained

The ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating (or overall score) for dehumidifiers is made up of:

• water removal (30%)
• claimed water removal (20%)
• energy efficiency (30%)
• ease of use (20%).

Our test lab

Testing dehumidifiers requires a very specific laboratory, as described above. While ÌÇÐÄVlog does have high quality thermal laboratories, we don’t have a lab suited to this particular testing; it would be very expensive to construct and maintain. So instead, when we review dehumidifiers we send them to a qualified external lab.

The post How we test dehumidifiers appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• Our expert testers
• How we choose what we review
• How we test humidifiers
• Test criteria explained
• Our test lab

We lab test humidifiers to help you choose the best one for your needs. Here’s how we go about it.

Our expert testers

ÌÇÐÄVlog maintains a highly professional NATA-accredited laboratory and the vast majority of our product testing is done in-house. However, some tests – including humidifiers – demand particular expertise and equipment that we don’t have, so in these cases we engage an accredited external lab to do the testing according to our requirements.

How we choose what we review

With so many humidifiers to choose from with different sizes and water capacities, what makes us choose one model to test over another? As with most of our product testing, our aim is to test the most popular models on the market and what you’re most likely to see in stores.

We survey manufacturers to find out about their range of humidifiers, we check market sales information and we also check for any member requests to test specific models. We then put together a final list that goes to our buyers, and they head out to the shops and buy each product, just like a regular person would. We do this so we can be sure the machines are the same as any consumer would find them and not ‘tweaked’ in any way for better performance.

How we test humidifiers

Humidification and energy efficiency

Humidifiers are run-in before testing by filling their tanks with water and running them on their highest setting until they have insufficient water to operate. During this process the tank capacity is measured and the test start weight for the capacity test is ascertained – the water tank is required to be half full at the start of the capacity test.

A climate-controlled test room is set up to maintain the appliance’s inlet air at an average temperature of 21°°äÌý(± 0.5°C) and average humidity of 30% (± 3%). These are measured with a calibrated humidity and temperature sensor set up 300mm from the air inlet of the appliance, at the same height as the appliance’s air inlet. A ceiling fan is then used to circulate air in the test room. In our most recent test, the average air velocity did not exceed 0.25 m/s within 910mm of the appliance during testing.

The appliance is filled with water to slightly above half full and is positioned on the test room scales and connected to a power meter. When the test room stabilises at the correct temperature and humidity, the appliance is turned on at its maximum humidification setting. The test starts when the appliance is half full (as determined by the test room scales) and continues for two hours, where water emitted per hour and power usage is determined.

Humidistat testing

Humidifiers with a humidistat are run with the humidistat set to a relative humidity of 50% with warm mist activated and at their highest mist volume, if these settings are available. Humidifiers without a humidistat are run at their highest setting. Humidity and temperature readings are recorded for two hours after the appliance is switched on and the data is used to determine the humidistat accuracy (humidistat available), final humidity (humidistat not available) and the spatial distribution of the humidity in the room.

Spatial variation

To help determine how well each humidifier disperses the moisture within the test room, 16 sensors are arranged evenly. A snapshot of the data is taken either at the end of the test (for units without humidistats) or at the peak of the last on-cycle (for units with humidistats). The variation is quantified as twice the standard deviation of the 16 humidity values.

Ease of use

The lab testers assess each model for ease of accessing and filling up the water tank, quality of instructions and labels, using the controls, mobility of the unit and how easy it is to clean it.

Noise

We measure the noise of the unit while it’s running (these results are comparative only – what you actually hear depends on the environment). Most measure around 40dB when on the highest setting with the quietest unit below 30dB, although the most noticeable aspect to these units would be the gurgling sounds of the water being dispersed.

Running costs

This is the approximate per hour cost of running the unit, and the electricity cost for the unit to disperse 1 litre of water. Various cost scenarios are calculated depending on whether you want to run the unit for a couple of hours or overnight while you sleep.

Test criteria explained

The overall score for humidifiers is made up of:

• humidity performance (40%)
• water output (30%)
• energy efficiency (20%)
• ease of use (10%).

Our test lab

Testing humidifiers requires a very specific laboratory, as described above. While ÌÇÐÄVlog does have high quality thermal laboratories, we don’t have a lab suited to this particular testing – it would be very expensive to construct and maintain. So instead, when we review humidifiers we send them to a qualified external lab.

The post How we test humidifiers appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• Why humidity levels matter
• Do humidifiers work?
• Do humidifiers help babies sleep better?
• What are the dangers of using a humidifier?

Your skin’s dry, your eyes are itchy and you’re pretty sure you can feel a cold coming on. Unfortunately, the colder months are notorious for dry air and those not-so-fun winter bugs.Ìý

Enter the home humidifier: a device that not only helps maintain moisture in a room, but that manufacturers claim can ease all of the above. Chapped lips? Sure! Allergy and asthma symptoms? Yep! Helping prevent the spread of cold and flu? You bet!Ìý

But do humidifiers work? And what do you need to know about them before buying one? We look at the research, explore the dangers and talk to the experts to find out.

Why humidity levels matter

It’s important to get the balance right with humidity in your home, as there can be adverse health effects with low or high humidity. And figuring out whether you have high or low humidity is a good start, says Oliver.

“The aim of a humidifier is to provide normal humidity levels, so the first thing that people should do is establish if humidity levels are low,” he explains. “If the levels aren’t low, there’s no need for a humidifier.Ìý

“On the flip side, high humidity or ‘over-humidification’ for long periods promotes moulds and bacteria to grow, and house dust mites – and leads to a damp environment for prolonged periods. Everyone with significant exposure to that environment is likely to suffer but the young, elderly and people with pre-existing medical conditions (especially respiratory conditions) are likely to have worse overall symptoms.”

Do humidifiers work?

The health claims aren’t supported by evidence either, says Dr Brian Oliver, an infectious diseases and respiratory researcher and associate professor at the University of Technology’s School of Life Sciences in Sydney.

“The problem is that a lot of the claims are made by people with a financial interest in selling humidifiers, and they’re not really made from scientific investigation,” he says.Ìý

Do they help with asthma or allergy symptoms?Ìý

There have been a number of clinical trials looking at the effects of humidifiers on asthma, but again the evidence is limited. Not surprisingly, neither recommends them or endorses them.Ìý

“While some individuals may find relief using these, we don’t openly recommend them.”

However, chief executive, Siobhan Brophy, says there may be benefits.

“Very dry air increases the chances of catching viruses like the common cold or even the flu, which can be serious asthma triggers,” she says. “Humidifiers can help people living in dry environments to maintainÌýÌýin their home.”Ìý

As for allergies? Oliver says there’s no evidence humidifiers help. “You’re either allergic or you’re not and whether you’re in a humid environment or not is not really going to make a difference,” he says.

Do humidifiers help babies sleep better?

Parenting forums are full of mums and dads extolling the virtues of the humidifier and claims that it helps little ones get to sleep, but Oliver says, again, there’s no evidence he knows of that these devices help a child sleep better or for longer.

“As parents I think we latch on to anything we think makes our kids sleep better,” he says.Ìý

“Maybe some kids sleep better with the hum of a humidifier, but whether a humidified environment makes a kid sleep better or not – I don’t think there’s any evidence for it.”

What are the dangers of using a humidifier?

As you would expect, there are risks with using a device that boils water or emits steam such as a warm mist humidifier – especially if you have babies or little kids that could touch it or pull it down on top of them.Ìý“There is a risk of a child burning themselves,” confirms Oliver.

Other risks aren’t as obvious – like if you’re not vigilant about cleaning your humidifier.Ìý

“If you’re using a humidifier that emits a mist through mechanical means, anything that’s in the water will be aerosolised into the mist – and if people don’t clean their humidifier and there’s water left in there for weeks on end, bugs start to grow,” says Oliver.

“Imagine what would happen if you left a glass of water on your desk for six months and then started drinking from it? It’s likely that some very undesirable bugs have started to grow and you might get quite sick.Ìý

An important part of owning a humidifier is maintenance. Clean the filter when required and change the water regularly.

What does low and high humidity look like?

According to the National Asthma Council, the ideal indoor humidity range is between 30 and 50%. You can buy a humidity meter or ‘hygrometer’ from a hardware store to check the humidity in your home, but there are also some tell-tale signs.

Signs of low humidity

If humidity is under 40%, there may be more static electricity in the air, and you may suffer from dry skin, eye irritation, nasal dryness and allergy symptoms.Ìý

Signs of high humidity

If the humidity in your home is over 60 or 70%, there may be condensation on windows, wet patches on walls, a musty smell, mould in the bathroom and dust mites. Dust mites, along with mould, are two common triggers for asthma and allergy.

What about dehumidifiers and vaporisers?

Although vaporisers basically do the same thing as warm mist humidifiers, they’re not quite the same. A vaporiser is designed to heat and evaporate substances, so it’s often used with essential oils or menthol.

Dehumidifers work in the opposite way to a humidifier. If the humidity in your home is too high, a dehumidifier can remove excess moisture from the air, making it an option if you’re looking to reduce mould and mildew in your home.

What to do if you have a dodgy humidifier

The Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) says it’s not aware of any issues with humidifiers and consumer use in Australia, but if you experience issues with a humidifier that’s included in the Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods (ARTG), you should Ìýthrough its website.

And if you have a safety issue with a humidifier that’s not on the ARTG, you should report it to the Australian Competition and Consumer Commission (ACCC) via .Ìý

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