On this page:

• How much does a flat-pack kitchen cost?
• Buying process
• Installation
• What can't I DIY? 
• Additional costs and considerations

Kitchen renovations can be incredibly expensive, so it’s little wonder that many budget-conscious renovators consider buying a flat-pack kitchen in an effort to save money on labour by doing it themselves.

Read below for our guide to buying and installing a flat-pack kitchen.

Flat-pack kitchens are an alternative to a custom-built kitchen, which is where a professional (with experience, contacts and expertise) designs your kitchen to your specific requirements and coordinates the project for you.

You can buy flat-pack kitchens from major retailers such as Bunnings and Ikea, and they come in an impressive variety of styles and finishes.

But even though they’re designed and marketed as a ‘do-it-yourself’ option, you need time and skills to assemble and install it yourself.

So is a flat-pack kitchen the right option for you? We look at the pros and cons.

How much does a flat-pack kitchen cost?

The cost of a budget-friendly flat-pack kitchen renovation can vary considerably, depending on the style, layout, number and size of cabinets and drawers, finishes, hardware and essential trades you choose.

• A custom kitchen offers an inclusive package of consultation, design, construction and installation.Ìý
• Flat-pack kitchens are usually bought individually in components – cabinets, accessories, doors, panels, benchtops and splashbacks. This means that the total cost of your kitchen depends on the style and number of components required for your design, which makes it difficult to compare prices.

To give a rough guide, we looked at a small L-shaped flat-pack kitchen from Bunnings with space for a microwave, dishwasher and oven, and broke it down into its individual components. We then compared the cost of each component (excluding sink, taps, microwave box, and appliances) to its closest equivalent at Ikea.

How did they compare?

• Bunnings flat-pack kitchen – $4980
• Ikea flat-pack kitchen – $4470

Both stores have a wide range of front styles with different colours and materials, so you may be willing to pay more if you have a strong preference for a style on offer at one or the other.

±·´Ç³Ù±ð:Ìý Ikea’s drawers are metal-sided. With a Bunnings kitchen, customers have the option to upgrade for drawers like this. In addition, Ikea’s wall cabinets use a suspension rail to help mount them to the wall while the Bunnings cabinets are screwed directly into the wall. It’s also worth noting that the Bunnings cabinetry has a solid back construction.

Styles and customisation

Both stores offer many options to style your kitchen to your taste.

Ikea is well-known for its basic modular-style flat-pack kitchens and offers 23 kitchen door styles in its IKEA METOD range, with a further seven styles in the IKEA ENHET range.

“Ikea’s modular system provides over 15,000 different style combinations, which allows customers to mix and match their different cabinet sizes to fit their space and then to select a door or drawer front to suit their chosen style,” says Cesar Ramirez, kitchen manager at Ikea Australia.Ìý

“Additionally, we have introduced a new low-price modular kitchen system called ENHET, offering even more affordable style combinations for our customers on a tighter budget.”

Similarly, Kaboodle Kitchen, sold through Bunnings, has many styles and modular size options, but also offers customers a customisable option with its local ‘cut-to-measure’ service, for an additional fee. This lets you adjust the width (though not the height) of selected doors, panels and benchtops to fit your space, avoiding the need for filler panels.

Quality of materials

Even though there’s a multitude of styles and finishes to choose from, the materials used for flat-pack kitchens are standardised across the range for each retailer.

Kaboodle’s range of cabinets, doors and panels are manufactured with particleboard or MDF, and finished with melamine, premium melamine or thermoformed, offering a range of colours and profiles to choose from. “Hinges and essential hardware are from DTC and Hettich,” says Briony Mikrou, partnerships manager at Kaboodle Kitchen.

Similarly, Ikea cabinets are made from particleboard and melamine, with hinges, drawers, push-openers and soft closing devices from the German brand Blum.

“Getting the layout right is really important to maximise space and functionality,” says Briony.

Designs

The design of your new kitchen should not only look good but also be functional. Kaboodle and Ikea both have instore and online 3D planning tools to help non-professionals design a kitchen, and they offer advice on how to make the most of your space.

“Consider a layout that works best for how you intend on using the kitchen to ensure a future-proof design,” Briony advises.

If you’re not confident in your kitchen design skills, both stores offer expert assistance.Ìý

Cesar explains Ikea’s offering: “For designing your kitchen, you can give it a go yourself with our online, or get a little help from one of our experts in store or online. who will go with you through the plan and ensure you have everything you need and assist you with the order.” 

This service is free instore or online and customers can book an hour and a half planning appointment with an Ikea kitchen expert, and come away with a 3D kitchen design, an order list and full quote. Additionally, Ikea offers an interior design service virtually or instore at selected locations in Australia from $29. Alternatively, an in-home kitchen planning service with an Ikea-approved service provider can also be arranged for a fee.

Bunnings offers an instore or virtual consultation service for $49 or a home visit for $99, redeemable off the Kaboodle kitchen purchase. “If guidance is needed, customers can book an appointment with a Bunnings instore kitchen expert, or an in-home consultation, for assistance to create and finalise their design and product order,” says Briony.Ìý

ÌÇÐÄVlog tip: You can save money by keeping your original gas and electrical fittings where they are, but this may limit your design options.

Buying process

Once a flat-pack kitchen’s measurements have been checked, the design configured and style chosen, all of the kitchen’s components – drawers, cabinets, cupboards, hardware – are selected and ordered.Ìý

How quickly you receive your purchase from this point depends on your order size, delivery location, delivery demand and product availability.Ìý

At Ikea, you can opt for home delivery straight to your door or pick up your order directly from the store. An approximate delivery time for large orders at IKEA is two-to-six business days. An estimated delivery date for your order will be advised when you check out.

At Bunnings, delivery times vary depending on availability and whether or not you’ve opted for a customised ‘cut-to-size’ option. Similar to Ikea, your Kaboodle order can either be collected from your local Bunnings store or delivered to your home. Delivery time and cost will vary according to your location and the size of your order, and this is advised once stock is ready.

Installation

You’ll save a lot of money on labour installing your own flat-pack kitchen. If you’re handy with a hammer, know how to use a cordless drill and feel confident operating a jigsaw, by all means give it a crack. There are myriad resources from manufacturers online that you can reference for advice and instructions.

But, as Cesar warns, installation isn’t for everyone.Ìý

“For people short on time, or who’d find a big project like installing a kitchen daunting, we will help them connect with a professional installer,” he says.

Josh Quiroga, director at , says there are a number of reasons why people choose a contractor to install their flat-pack kitchen rather than go it alone.Ìý

“Undertaking a flatpack kitchen installation without any experience is a huge commitment and can be a steep learning curve,” he says.Ìý

The cost of using a contractor to install your flat-pack kitchen will vary, depending on the scope of your kitchen renovation and whether you employ their expertise for the initial design as well as installation.

“The average cost for installing a flatpack kitchen is around $3000, plus plumbing (approx. $1000), plus electrical work (approx. $1000), plus splashback tiling (approx. $600),” says Josh.

“By engaging an experienced, licensed kitchen installer you draw on the expertise and experience of a professional that can achieve a very high quality finish compliant with current building codes, a guaranteed timeframe for completion, insurance and full warranty on all workmanship.”

If you decide to outsource installation, see our advice on how to find a good tradie. Ikea customers can also request installation quotes from registered tradespeople on the Ikea website through their partnership with Hipages.

But be prepared to wait some time for your chosen tradesperson to become available. According to the 2022 HIA Trades Report, Australia has been experiencing a severe shortage of skilled tradespeople across all regions. With fewer tradespeople, demand for services is significantly higher and therefore wait times are longer.

“This elevated demand, and constraints in access to skilled trades from overseas [in recent years], has resulted in this acute shortage of skilled trades,” said HIA Economist, Tom Devitt.Ìý

Flatpak Connexion advises that their current lead time to commence a flatpack kitchen installation is approximately four-to-six weeks.

The cost of using a contractor to install your flat-pack kitchen will vary, depending on the scope of your kitchen renovation and whether you employ their expertise in the initial design as well as installation.

“The average cost for installing a flat-pack kitchen is around $2800, plus plumbing (approximately $800) and electrical work (approximately $800), totalling about  $4500–5000,” Griveau says.

A DIY flat-pack kitchen assembly and installation may prove to be a lengthy process, depending on how much time you have to contribute to the project and any unforeseen issues that arise. Being without a working kitchen in the meantime can be challenging. For homeowners living on the premises, a quick renovation might be preferable.

What can’t I DIY? 

A DIY flat-pack kitchen assembly and installation may prove to be a lengthy process, depending on how much time you have to contribute to the project and whether any unforeseen issues arise. Getting by without a working kitchen in the meantime can be challenging. For homeowners living on the premises, a quick renovation by a professional might be preferable.

Even though you can save money assembling and installing a flat-pack kitchen yourself, some tasks must be completed by a licensed professional and that will need to be factored into your budget.Ìý

There are things you either aren’t legally allowed or shouldn’t do yourself. Hooking up your sink and dishwasher to existing plumbing (or installing new plumbing to suit your new kitchen layout), along with electrical work and gasfitting, should be done by licensed, skilled and experienced plumbers and electricians.

Using tradespeople who are registered, licensed and have the correct insurance means you’re covered if something goes wrong, but if you DIY and make a mistake, the responsibility will fall entirely on your shoulders.Ìý

Even if you’re not making any alterations to the original electrical and plumbing positions, you’ll still need a licensed tradesperson to hook you up.

Read more about home renovation projects you shouldn’t do yourself.

Additional costs and considerations

• Demolition of the old kitchen and removal of waste from the site – if you contract an installer, check if they offer a rubbish removal service as well.
• Disposal of packaging – Ikea has a for packaging materials and has joined forces with Bunnings, Aldi and Planet Ark to encourage more recycling and reduce landfill with a for used, broken and unwanted products.Ìý 
• Painting and tiling – unless you’re confident in your own ability, using a professional tiler or painter may get you a better end result.
• Appliances – it might be convenient to buy these from Ikea or Bunnings, but do your homework on the value and quality – Ikea’s ‘minimalist’ Nedkyld fridge received a ÌÇÐÄVlog Shonky Award last year for its poor performance.

Longevity and guarantees

Ikea’s kitchen cabinetry and benchtop ranges come with a 25-year guarantee.Ìý

The Kaboodle Kitchen cabinets from Bunnings have a 10-year structural warranty and are also covered by ‘Lifetime Advantage’, which means this warranty is extended for the entire time you own and live in your home.Ìý 

Case study 1: Flat-pack success – with some help

Netty and her family had recently bought a Federation-style cottage from the 1880s with an outdated kitchen that they wanted to spruce-up.

“The kitchen was a long, narrow space with lots of lovely windows overlooking the garden,” she says. “We needed to renovate as all the old cupboard and drawer doors were beyond repair – we’d resorted to curtains!

“My most important consideration was functionality. We couldn’t do much with the space, so I wanted to maximise storage and for the style to blend in with the other renovations we were doing. I also particularly wanted as many drawers as I could, as I think kitchen cupboards aren’t a great use of space.” 

Short on cash, Netty decided on a flat-pack kitchen.Ìý

“Price was definitely a factor. We had quotes for a custom kitchen and it was twice the price. Because we were doing a really large, full-house renovation at the same time, we decided on the cheaper option.” 

Feeling ill-equipped to do the renovation herself, Netty decided to contract a professional to assemble and install it for her.Ìý

“It wasn’t so much a choice as a necessity – we simply didn’t have the skill set to install a kitchen. Also, being a very old house there wasn’t a straight line anywhere, so the installation required an expert,” she says. “Fortunately, our builder had installed a few flat-pack kitchens of various shapes and sizes before so he knew what he was doing.” 

Netty says she was thrilled with her flat-pack kitchen and was very happy with the end result.Ìý

“I have no regrets at all!” she says. “From my experience, my advice to others choosing to go with a flat-pack kitchen is to get your builder to do it for you.”

Case study 2: Installation frustration

When Graham decided to renovate his 35-year-old home, his budget was tight, so DIY assembly and installation of a flat-pack kitchen was his best option. He opted for a kitchen professional to do an in-home visit first.Ìý

“He did a thorough job – measured up the existing place, got my views on what I wanted, made some suggestions, looked at ways to trim some of the costs, explained a few things, generated a few renders of the finished kitchen, and produced a list of required products with costs. It was 90 minutes well spent,” Graham says.

After delivery, the existing kitchen needed to be demolished. “That meant getting an electrician and plumber out to disconnect all of the services. Both the tradies asked about the future layout so they could prepare for the return part of their visit,” he says.Ìý

When Graham began the installation he discovered his floor was out of plumb by around 3cm.Ìý

“Fortunately the kitchen cabinets come with adjustable legs so it wasn’t too difficult to get them to a consistent level. It’s all a bit more difficult than it looks,” he says.

He hit another snag when he went to install his custom-built benchtops.Ìý

“One of the benches wouldn’t lay flat as it was too wide; a few millimetres shorter and it would have been perfect,” he says.Ìý 

“But the advantage of using the in-home consultant is that if the bench tops don’t fit, then they are responsible for the cost of modifying them to ensure they do. [But I soon discovered] there’s a bit of wriggle room in that statement.

“I called my local store. They gave me an ‘it’s not our fault’ response and had the consultant call me. He said they only guaranteed the bench tops within plus or minus five millimetres. I can understand that, but I’d like to know why they didn’t tell me this in the first place.” 

It was suggested to Graham that he use a router to trim the back of the benchtops to make them the correct size.Ìý

“I didn’t have a router so had to buy one,” he says.

After a busy few weeks installing the kitchen, Graham’s contracted plumber and the electrician both returned and he finally had running water, lights and working power points, oven and cooktop.Ìý

“Overall I’m glad I did it. The product is of high quality; it’s solid and it looks good. I’ve started to enjoy being in the kitchen again and I’m cooking a lot more,” he says.

The post Should you buy an Ikea or Bunnings flat-pack kitchen? appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

A little-known paint industry scheme is taking millions of dollars a year out of the pockets of Australian consumers and sending it to a secretive organisation with no public accountability.Ìý

Every litre of architectural and decorative paint sold in Australia has a levy of 15 cents plus GST attached to it for sales between one and 20 litres. There are over 100 million litres of paint sold in Australia every year, meaning the levy may be raking in millions.Ìý

The money goes to a not-for-profit charity organisation called Paintback Ltd, which has been granted secrecy exemptions to laws requiring the public disclosure of revenue, operations and spending. The exemption was granted to protect “commercially sensitive” information.Ìý

The scheme’s members include major paint brands such as Dulux, Bristol and Wattyl, and the majority of the members of Paintback’s board are representatives of paint companies.Ìý

Paintback operates paint recycling collection points around the country, and says its aim is to keep paint out of landfill and from being illegally dumped. The organisation also conducts research into the “circular economy”, but declined to reveal how much money it spends on each of these areas of operations.Ìý

No transparency 

The Australian Charities and Not-for-profit Commission (ACNC) classifies Paintback as a “large” organisation, meaning its revenue is over $3 million a year.Ìý

However, exactly how much the scheme brings in or where the money goes is a mystery to the public. The Australian Competition and Consumer Commission (ACCC), which approved the scheme in 2016 and renewed it for ten years in 2021, granted Paintback broad secrecy provisions.

The ACCC says it maintains no role in monitoring the effectiveness of the scheme and will only consider the experience of the scheme again if an application for an extension of the levy is lodged when the current one expires in 2031. The Commission says an “additional level of detail in financial reporting is not necessary for the realisation of the public benefits of the Scheme”.Ìý

At the time of Paintback’s 2021 application for the renewal of the levy, the New South Wales Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) supported the proposal overall, but called for more financial transparency and reporting of key information, such as the disposal outcomes and where used paint ended up. The ACCC dismissed the EPA’s concerns.Ìý 

Paintback argued that greater financial transparency would threaten the viability of the scheme, as paint companies involved may pull out due to “commercially sensitive” information being published.

“Greater transparency in respect of Paintback’s financial information is unnecessary to safeguard the recognised environmental public benefits accruing from the Scheme and indeed would involve significant public detriments that would compromise the effectiveness (and potentially the existence) of the Scheme,” Paintback’s lawyers said at the time.Ìý   

Paintback told us overhead expenditure is 8% of spending and all remaining expenditure is spent on “collections, recycling and reuse processes, disposals, research and development, safety auditing and market education and training”.

‘Unusual arrangement’ 

Sandra van der Laan is a professor of accounting from the University of Sydney who focuses on financial reporting, accountability and regulation.Ìý

She says the secrecy arrangements granted to Paintback are “unusual” and rarely seen in charities or nonprofits outside of religious organisations.Ìý

“I don’t know how they got permission not to have that stuff made public … The public has a right to know what they are doing with the benefits of that charitable status,” Laan says.Ìý

She adds that, in her opinion, the argument of “commercial sensitivity” is questionable and that secrecy risks undermining public trust in the scheme.

Paint sellers and buyers confused

Tom, not his real name, runs a paint shop in New South Wales; a subsidiary of Dulux. He asked for anonymity over fears the company could retaliate against him for speaking out.Ìý 

He says tradies and regular paint buyers have asked him about the 15 cent levy and what the money goes towards and he has to tell them that he doesn’t know.Ìý

“What are they doing? I don’t understand, and there is no clear communication with us as paint sellers,” he says.

He says another gripe is the 100 litre limit on how much paint can be dropped off at collection points each day, with painters having to hoard hundreds of litres of paint that they can’t dispose of.Ìý

“The painters feel like they have already paid for this scheme through the levy; why can’t they dispose of their paint?” says Tom.Ìý

The NSW EPA also raised concerns that the levy didn’t cover the full cost of paint disposal in the state.

Paintback responds 

Paintback interim chief executive John Ferraro says since beginning in 2016 the scheme has collected and treated over 51 million kilograms of unwanted paint and packaging. ÌÇÐÄVlog asked how much of that collected paint ended up in landfill; Paintback replied that its annual rate of “diversion from landfill” ranged between 54% to 79%.Ìý 

“Paintback now provides an extensive network of cost-free collection points which span over 165 locations across Australia, collaborating with local councils and drop-off sites to cater to over 85% of the general population,” he says.

Ferraro says the organisation is “proud of the unique structure of the scheme”, whose aim is to “protect the environment”.

The post The secret house paint tax you’re paying for appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• BBQs
• Plants
• Garden tools
• Carpet cleaners
• Flat-pack kitchens
• Cleaning appliances

Whether you’re after a hardcore power tool, some pretty flowers for the garden, or just the much-loved sausage sandwich, most of us have set foot in the DIY giant’s warehouses.

Our ÌÇÐÄVlog experts have put dozens of products from Bunnings through their paces in our labs. Some performed better than others. Here’s what you need to know before your next trip to the temple of DIY.Ìý

BBQs

One to buy? – Maybe

While you’re no doubt dazzled by the vast array of products and brands for sale, you may not know that several brands the hardware giant stocks are exclusive to Bunnings.Ìý

For instance, Jumbuck and Matador barbecues are only available through Bunnings. But how do they stand up in our testing, and should you buy a barbecue from Bunnings Warehouse?

There are two Jumbuck barbecues in our current review and while they’re not terrible, they’re also not going to set your world on fire – they’re ranked as ‘OK’ by to our experts.Ìý

And while there’s only one Matador BBQ in our review, when we’ve tested them in the past they’ve performed adequately – scores ranged from 67% through to 80%. Bunnings also stocks barbecues from Beefeater, Everdure, Gasmate and Pit Boss.Ìý

“Most of the Jumbuck and Matador barbecues we have tested seem to be flimsily made and difficult to assemble with thermostats that may not be accurate. They’re basically poor quality and may not last the distance,” says ÌÇÐÄVlog kitchen expert Fiona Mair.Ìý

We put each barbecue we test through its paces, cooking steak, sausages, whole roast chicken and marinated chicken wings. Plus, we assess how easy each model is to use. Check our expert barbecue reviews before you buy to get the best barbie for your buck.Ìý

Plants

One to buy? – Yes

When we compared plant return policies from several hardware and nursery businesses, Bunnings had one of the most generous returns policies.Ìý

As long as you have your receipt, the home improvement giant will let you return your plant (in or out of a pot) to any branch for a refund or exchange for up to 12 months.Ìý

The exceptions to this are plants like vegetables, flowers and potted colour, which “are short-lived plants that are not expected to live for more than 3–5 months in the garden,” Bunnings says.Ìý

Garden tools

One to buy? – Maybe (but buy carefully)

If you’ve ever set foot in a Bunnings store, you’ll be familiar with Ozito – another brand that’s exclusive to Bunnings. We’ve tested a range of Ozito products, including electric mowers, line trimmers, lawn edgers, blower vacs and hedge trimmers.Ìý

Click through to see how the Ozito PXC 18V PXCLMK-1418 performs, and the Ozito PXCLTK-218 cordless line trimmer and the Ozito BLV-2401 blower vac.Ìý

While a few of them impressed our experts, unfortunately the rest of them were among the lowest scoring in their categories. But they’re also the cheapest in each category, so make of that what you will.Ìý

If you’re keen to save money without sacrificing performance, check our lawnmowers and trimmers reviews and our garden tools reviews.Ìý

Carpet cleaners

Bunnings hires both Britex and Rug Doctor carpet cleaners for 24 or 48 hours, and also sells some carpet cleaners outright.Ìý

We’ve tested two of the Vax carpet cleaners sold at Bunnings – the Vax Platinum Compact Power Carpet Washer and the Vax Platinum Power Max Carpet Washer VX100. One performed very well and is recommended by our experts; the other was okay but didn’t wow us.Ìý

Read our full review to find the best carpet shampooers for your money.Ìý

Not sure whether to hire, buy or just DIY? We talk you through the best products to get stains out of carpets.Ìý

Flat-pack kitchens

One to buy? – Maybe (but you might need some help)

If you’re planning to DIY your kitchen reno, a flat-pack kitchen is one way to save some serious coin. Bunnings supplies Kaboodle Kitchen, which has many styles and modular size options, plus a ‘cut-to-measure’ service that costs extra.Ìý

You can use an in-store or online 3D planning tool to design your kitchen, or if you need some help, Bunnings has an instore service for $49 or a home visit for $99. These charges are redeemable off the kitchen purchase.Ìý

Depending on size and the materials you choose, a Bunnings flat-pack kitchen can cost anywhere from $5000 up to $10,000.

There are a few things that can affect the price: size and number of cabinets, the finish of the cabinet fronts, and the type of hardware you choose (hinges, drawer runners and handles). And don’t forget to factor in costs for electrical and plumbing works.

Installing a flat-pack kitchen is not for the faint-hearted, so if you feel your skills aren’t quite up to the challenge, you can opt to have a professional install it. It’ll obviously add to the bottom line, but could save you time and help you avoid wobbly doors and off-kilter benchtops.Ìý

Cleaning appliances

One to buy? – Maybe

If you’re after cleaning appliances like steam cleaners, Bunnings stocks a range of steam mops and cleaners from brands such as Karcher, Vax, and Black & Decker. Some of these performed better than others in our tests, and our experts recommend some products from these brands.Ìý

But with prices for steam cleaners running as high as $1299, you’ll want to do your homework before you buy. Check our steam mop reviews to see which ones will get the job done, and which ones are better ditched in favour of an old-fashioned mop and bucket.Ìý

Bunnings may not be the first place you’d think to go to buy a vacuum cleaner, but the DIY titan does stock a range of stick, handheld, barrel and robot vacuums from Vax, Karcher, Black & Decker, Ryobi and Makita. They range in price from $39.99 for a basic handheld vac through to $1999 for a brushless cordless vac.

So how do their products perform? We haven’t tested all the products sold at Bunnings, but there’s one stick vac in particular that our experts recommend. Check our stick vacuum reviews to make sure you’re picking up a winner.Ìý

The post Bunnings best buys and products to avoid appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• Trap 1: Spending too much – or not enough
• Trap 2: Doing a full renovation when a cosmetic one would do
• Trap 3: Contracting dodgy tradespeople
• Trap 4: Choosing trendy over functional
• Trap 5: Doing it all yourself
• The costs of renovating a bathroom
• Permits required for bathroom renovations
• What to do when things go wrong

But make the wrong call or fall into a renovation trap and your budget could spiral out of control, while you end up with a bathroom that adds no value to your property at all.

Here are five potential bathroom renovation traps to watch out for.

Trap 1: Spending too much – or not enough

How much you spend on your bathroom renovation will vary depending on your individual needs, the overall value of the property, the style of your home and the bathroom space.

In a family home there’s more demand on bathrooms, so they need a more practical design than, say, a bathroom for a retired couple in a small, one-bedroom apartment.

The style of your home will also be a factor in what you do to update your bathroom. Perhaps investing in a more opulent bathroom may be necessary to complement a home’s luxe appeal.

“It’s a very tricky balance between what you can afford and what you really want. And generally there will be compromises to be made to get the best solution,” says Kylie Mitchell, spokesperson for the Building Designers Association of Australia (BDAA) and award-winning building designer.Ìý

Ultimately, she says, it comes down to how much you can afford. “If you really want a bathroom feature, then by all means get it. But if the budget is tight then try and offset the costs of the feature by using more generic items elsewhere, for example [getting] a feature freestanding bath but using a more standard range of tiles.”

She says it’s also essential to work out how important the bathroom is to you.Ìý

“If your family uses it in a purely functional way then you should probably consider a more sturdy and economical design,” she says. “[But] if your bathroom is a haven you spend a lot of time in, then you would be more inclined to add in some special features and spend some more money on it.” 

However, while overcapitalising is a mistake, it’s just as important not to under-capitalise, which has the potential to devalue your property in the eyes of potential buyers.

Trap 2: Doing a full renovation when a cosmetic one would do

Renovation expert Cherie Barber says in her book Renovating for Profit that it’s a common renovator mistake to rip out and replace a perfectly good bathroom, when a new look could have been achieved with just a few cosmetic changes.

“There are lots of hideous bathrooms out there with wild and wacky tiles but, once you take a closer look, you’ll see that structurally you might have one in great condition,” she says.

A major renovation may require changing the layout of your plumbing, which is costly and time-consuming. But a design that uses existing plumbing, where you might just replace the vanity, tapware and wall tiles, can potentially save you thousands of dollars.

“A retrofit is often a great option for a bathroom, especially when the budget is tight. Installing a new bath, shower and vanity, painting the walls a different colour and adding some new towels can make the space feel like it’s in a resort. And it’s a much cheaper way to go,” Mitchell says.Ìý

“Once you start moving things around and changing plumbing configuration then the costs automatically start going up.”

A dated bathroom doesn’t always need a major overhaul – you might only need to replace the tiles and fittings.

But a word of caution – any cosmetic work that affects the floor may cost you more than you bargained for.

“Because the waterproofing can and will be damaged when things start to move around, then you move into needing specialist trades,” Mitchell explains. “This can also happen when changing tiles. Anything that will damage a wall or floor needs to be spoken about with trusted professional trades in order to get the best advice.” 

Mitchell says her advice is to always have a good look at what you already have before setting yourself a Grand Designs project. “You may be surprised by what can be achieved in the space you already have,” she says.

Trap 3: Contracting dodgy tradespeople

Although you may want to save money wherever possible on a bathroom renovation, there are some things that should not be scrimped on. And one of those things, according to Mitchell, is the people doing the work.

“We have all had that experience! And they are out there,” she says of dodgy tradespeople.

Select tradies who are licensed, insured and experienced in renovating bathrooms. Plumbing and electrical works should be done by specialised professionals.

You can choose to coordinate those tradespeople yourself to save money, or you can pay to have a specialised company or builder project manage them for you – but if you go down this path, make sure your project manager is experienced in bathroom renovations and connected with experienced and high-quality tradespeople.

Check with your state, territory or local government authority that your chosen tradespeople have a current licence.

A word about waterproofing

Getting a fully qualified waterproofer to install your bathroom waterproof membrane is absolutely essential to ensure it’s done correctly – waterproofing tops the list of the most common building defects in every state and territory in Australia, according to the Master Builders Association of NSW.Ìý

Waterproofing requirements vary state by state, so it’s important to check what’s required for your renovation. Depending on the circumstance waterproofers may need to have a licence, or certification of the job might be required.

“The best way is to seek referrals from people you know and trust and only work with trades and professionals that have good reputations,” she says. “This is especially important when dealing with wet areas. Because waterproofing and plumbing can be so detrimental when they go wrong – even damaging the structure of the building itself.

“It’s vital to make sure the people you are working with are qualified for the job,” Mitchell says.

Trap 4: Choosing trendy over functional

Choosing a bathroom style is one of the fun parts of a bathroom renovation, but Mitchell says it’s important to keep a few things in mind.Ìý

“What is the current style of the house? Are you planning on renovating the rest of the house? Are you constrained by anything such as a heritage order or overlay? And also, how do you use your bathroom?” she asks.Ìý

“All of these answers will start to steer you in the direction you can take to create the right bathroom for the house,” she says.

Bathroom styles and trends come and go, so it’s important to select a style that will age reasonably well, with an emphasis on functionality. Your choice in bathroom style should be dictated by the style of the home itself, and remain consistent with that.Ìý

“Another important question I always ask my clients is are you planning on selling in the next few years or is this your forever home? If you want to sell fairly quickly then keep that bathroom in keeping with the rest of the house so it isn’t jarring to the potential purchaser.Ìý

“But if it’s for a forever home then I’m much more likely to embrace my client’s enthusiasm for a certain trend or style, because if they aren’t selling or moving for 10 years or more then any new owners at that time will renovate it anyway.”

Styles and trends that cost

A major cost in a bathroom renovation comes down to style and subsequent fittings, which is why it’s important to do your research to ensure you’re getting the best price on what you want: 

• If a desired brand or item is out of your price range, seek out similar alternatives to achieve the same look at a fraction of the cost.Ìý
• If you’re looking at buying imported fittings, make sure they comply with Australian standards.
• Steer away from trends that will date or become technologically redundant relatively quickly.Ìý

While a jacuzzi or spa bath may add an element of luxury to your bathroom, it can also prove expensive to purchase, to run and may require ongoing maintenance.Ìý

Additionally, adding novel high-tech gadgets, such as smart toilets, will require specialised servicing and the lifespan of the product may be limited by its technology.

Unless you expect to live in your home for a decade or more before selling, intend to use these bathroom items regularly and are prepared to foot any ongoing maintenance costs, consider spending your renovation budget elsewhere.

That’s not to say trends should be avoided entirely; depending on your project and the style of your home, energy-efficient smart lights or a programmable thermostat, for example, can be a significant drawcard for environmentally and financially conscious buyers and prove a worthy investment.

Try before you buy

Mitchell says if you are considering an investment in a bathroom trend, it’s a good idea to try before you buy.Ìý

“Some bathroom styles may look good in magazines but not suit your lifestyle at all, and the wetroom-style bathroom [for example] is one of those. You either love them or hate them once you’ve lived with it,” she says.Ìý

“I normally recommend people wanting one of these to spend a few days in a bed and breakfast or hotel that has one to see how it works for them. A few hundred dollars spent this way can save you thousands if the style doesn’t suit you.” 

Trap 5: Doing it all yourself

So, you don’t have trade qualifications, but you’re feeling confident enough to tackle your bathroom renovation on your own?

For cosmetic renovations, such as replacing wall tiles and grout, building storage shelves or painting, DIY is possible. But renovations become more complicated when plumbing, electrical and waterproofing work is involved, and these require skilled and experienced tradespeople.

“If you are an experienced tradesperson or have someone close who is, then by all means take advantage of that and save some money. Just make sure that you get the correct approvals and the specialist skills where you need them, like the waterproofing,” Mitchell says.

“But if you don’t have that magic combination of skills and friends then I’d think twice about going it alone. When a bathroom goes wrong, it can go horribly wrong and damage a lot more things than just a few tiles. And that could cost you much more than the original budget for the bathroom.

Installing your own wiring and plumbing without a licence is illegal and can be dangerous, not to mention the essential care to be taken for the floor waterproof membrane to avoid serious problems down the track.Ìý

If you DIY, Mitchell says there’s every chance something will go wrong, which could potentially cost you even more money to repair.

“Get the experienced and skilled professionals and trades, and at least that way if something goes wrong, you will have their insurances to fall back on instead of your retirement fund!” she says.

How long it takes to renovate your bathroom will depend on the extent of the project, the availability of trades and, if you’re doing the labour yourself, how motivated you are to get it finished. It’ll prove more convenient to get it done sooner rather than later so you can functionally use your bathroom.

The costs of renovating a bathroom

In its Kitchens and Bathrooms Report 2020–2021, the Housing Industry Association (HIA) noted a 2.9% increase in bathroom renovations from the previous period, which saw the number rise to 241,180 renovations in that 12-month period.Ìý

The report suggests that this increase is a direct result of the pandemic and lockdowns in recent years, as households diverted funds normally spent on holidays, dining and entertainment to home renovations instead.Ìý

The report also noted that the average cost of a bathroom installed in 2021 increased by 1.7% to $21,484. However, the actual cost of a bathroom renovation can vary dramatically from the average.Ìý

Archicentre Australia recommends you allow between $14,000 and $32,000 to fit out a bathroom or ensuite.

In her book, Barber suggests a formula to determine your bathroom renovation budget, which is to attribute 2% of your current property value to the job.

According to Wesley Sinclair from , a rough budget breakdown for a full bathroom renovation is to spend 40% on fixtures, 35% on tiling, 20% on plumbing and 5% on electricals, with an additional 10% buffer for any unforeseen expenses.

You can avoid financial blowouts by sticking to your budget and seeking out the very best deals you can find on items such as tiles and fixtures.

Permits required for bathroom renovations

Depending on your state or territory’s rules and requirements – and the extent of your bathroom renovation – you may need to ensure you’ve applied for permits and received approval before you start.Ìý

“If you’re simply changing a few taps and adding a coat of paint then no permit is required, but if you’re moving plumbing and doing a full renovation then permits are definitely required to ensure that things like waterproofing, plumbing and electrical are all monitored and installed correctly,” Mitchell says.Ìý

“The best place to start is to contact a building designer, bathroom designer or bathroom renovating specialist, an interior designer or architect. These professionals can guide you through what’s required and also provide the drawings and design expertise that will get the council permits required, as well as the quotes for completing the work.” 

Mitchell says you’ll first need council permits, which will differ according to where you live, and the builders overseeing your project will collect certificates from the relevant trades that state that their completed work is compliant with the necessary codes.Ìý

“If you are an owner-builder then keeping track of these different requirements and regulations can be tricky, so I’d always recommend at the very least speaking to a professional first as well as your local council,” she says.Ìý

What to do when things go wrong

If you’ve been let down, are in financial dispute or disappointed with the quality of the workmanship of an Australian tradesperson, the consumer agency in your state can point you in the right direction for getting a resolution.Ìý

If the agency can’t help you come to a resolution, or you’re not satisfied with the outcome, you can take your complaint to the appropriate tribunal or court in your state or territory. These have the power to make a trader (or you) pay money, rectify services or excuse you from having to pay the full amount.Ìý

You may also have rights under the Australian Consumer Law (ACL), which applies to all businesses and may cover your situation.

Services up to $40,000 are covered by ACL irrespective of the type of work done, while costs greater than that are also covered as long as they are normally bought for personal or household use.Ìý

The ACL requires that the services provided by tradespeople are done with due care and skill, fit for a particular purpose and completed within a reasonable amount of time.

For further information, visit the  and for specific advice relating to your situation, seek appropriate legal advice.

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The post 5 bathroom renovation traps to avoid appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• $28,000 in architect's fees for a design they can't afford
• Beware the designer who disregards the budget
• Five steps to house plans you can afford to build
• Final words of advice

$28,000 in architect’s fees for a design they can’t afford

“We were sold a dream, and we paid for that dream,” says Ingrid.Ìý

Sitting at her dining table, Ingrid flicks through the thick A3 wad of well-thumbed house plans that she and her husband paid the architect $28,000 for.Ìý

“But we can’t afford to build it.”

Ingrid and William (not their real names) met with a number of architects in preparation for a $300,000 renovation of their Sydney home, even putting together a spreadsheet on the architects’ fee structures to find the right one. As they both work, they chose one that offered the best price for seeing the whole job through to the end of the build, but with the architect’s fees paid upfront.Ìý

What unfolded from there serves as a lesson to anyone about to embark on a dream renovation or new build.Ìý

“We were advised to go for the most that we could in the development application, and then pare it back once the approval had been secured. Even though we’d clearly named our budget, we knew we’d have scope creep, even up to $100,000. Everyone kept saying you should expect at least 25% more than what your budget is. But that’s not what we got.”

After 12 months of negotiations and changes, their plans were finally approved by the council. All up, Ingrid says they’ve paid out over $50,000 for the designs, various reports, fees and development approval. When it was put out to tender, three builders submitted quotes.  

“We thought it had likely gone up to around $600,000 – but it came in at $850,000. That’s more than we paid for the house, and two-and-a-half times our original budget!”

Ingrid is a creative services professional. “In my work,” she says, “if I get a brief and there’s a dollar figure attached to it, it’s easy to come up with a solution that is amazing but if it doesn’t fit with the budget then it should be discounted straight away.” 

“I don’t deny that it’s a great design, but it’s not fit for purpose if we can’t even stretch to what it costs to build.” 

Ingrid and William have had to abandon the approved plans, and have now sourced another architect to start all over again, with a much-reduced concept, smaller budget and smaller square meterage. Despite their early advice to go for the most in the development application, the new plans are substantially different and they need to submit a whole new application, with all the associated fees, and pay for new reports.Ìý

Beware the designer who disregards the budget

Ingrid and William’s costly experience is not uncommon – but it is avoidable. We talked to a number of architects to find out why this happens and how people can avoid finding themselves with designs that are grander than their budgets.

A retired Sydney architect we spoke to was candidly critical of some in the industry, saying, “There are architects who may not hold you back on the cost estimates because he or she believes they are secondary to the aspirations of both the client and the architect.”

“In many cases, the architect wants to see a wonderful solution that will enhance his or her own reputation.”

It’s important to be aware that architects are not cost consultants, and clients should source estimates from building professionals such as builders and quantity surveyors to estimate the building costs before the development application.

Clare Cousins, president elect of the Australian Institute of Architects (AIA), adds that budgets are not easily estimated.

“There are numerous factors that impact on budgets: location, site access, materials and timeframe,” she says. “The other factor often overlooked is the market. Builders price the work based on level of availability of their tradespeople. In a busy market like now this can change daily.”

Peter Georgiev, who runs residential building advice service Archicentre Australia, says, “There are architects who employ sensible approaches to cost planning and not all should be tarred with the same brush.”

Amelia Lee from Undercover Architect advises finding an experienced architect who is mindful of budgets. “It’s critical that the client does their homework to find a designer that is honest, open, listening, and that the designer has demonstrated experience, and has delivered projects similar to what you’re seeking, to budget.”

The obligations of the architect to the budget

Cousins tells us architects have a Code of Conduct that includes a responsibility to design and deliver a project within the constraints of a budget that’s been agreed with the client. They are also obliged to tell clients if they think their budget is unrealistic.

She says it’s important that both the scope and budget are reviewed frequently, and any implications resulting from their change be communicated clearly by the architect.

Architects vs building designers

Building designers are an alternative to architects but they haven’t undergone the same rigorous education.Ìý

Ted Riddle from the Building Designer’s Association says that, like architects, building designers are bound by consumer law through the Department of Fair Trading and consumer tribunals, although unlike architects, there’s no Act of Parliament that they’re bound to. Riddle says that once the client and the designer have agreed on a reasonable budget for that site, then the designer is obliged to produce plans that fit with the budget under consumer law.

Keep checking the budget

Clients should always ask: “Do you think that is achievable for the budget I have?” and keep asking as the plans evolve.

But Lee thinks people sometimes don’t want to hear the answer. “One of my biggest roles [as an architect] is to bring into alignment their vision for their home and how much they want to spend on it – and sometimes that’s a very difficult conversation to have with the client up front.”  

People’s expectations are often mismatched with the reality of the costs, but according to Lee, “Experienced architects will be honest upfront. They need to be truthful early, to avoid disappointment later.”  

When an architect advises clients of budget implications from a decision or change, it’s important that the client takes this on board.Ìý

Lee gives the example of a client’s attachment to high ceilings. “Three-metre ceilings will also mean taller glazing, extra lighting, plasterboard lining, painting, or extra scaffolding – all of which will add costs.”

“Good architects will have a paper trail telling you your decisions are causing construction cost increases that impact your design fees with them,” Lee advises.Ìý

Five steps to house plans you can afford to build

1. Research and determine your budget as thoroughly as possible

Before contacting an architect or building designer, research your budget. Approach this from two angles – what you can afford to spend, and what building costs.

Try these online home-building calculators to get an idea of costs and what can impact them:

An estimated cost per square metre can be a good place to start but it’s very important to realise that the site conditions (e.g. an inner-city congested site with no access or parking, or a sloping site) will have a profound impact. Dropping off a load of bricks next to where the wall is to be built is cheaper than carting them by hand to a hard-to-access area.

($285) has more detail on costing a project. It’s an industry reference for small builders, architects and consultants.

2. Interview a number of architects 

Architects expect you to speak to a few prospective designers. Reach out to friends and contacts who’ve renovated and listen to their experiences.

Look for architects who have experience with projects similar in standard and scope to what you’re wanting, and those who’ve worked with your council’s building codes as they’ll have a better idea of costs. Don’t just consider their fees when making a choice.

Check that the architects are registered in your state as this ties them to a code of conduct and legal obligations. The legal requirements of building designers are not so stringent. The AIA and the architects’ registration boards in each state have a code of professional conduct and disciplinary powers.

Ask for the following information when you meet with them:

• examples of projects that have been built and their cost
• the architect or building designer’s track record for delivering projects on or under budget
• a list of contact details for previous clients for references – and be sure to contact and question them about their experience with the designer
• whether or not the build is achievable with the budget you have. Take notes and look for honesty, not just what you want to hear. Beware the architect who says yes when others say no.Ìý

3. Ensure your budget is included in your brief, and in your contract/agreement

If the agreed budget is in the contract, the architect has legal obligations to fulfill. Maintain an ongoing, open and frank conversation about the budget throughout the process.

4. Obtain cost estimates from building professionals (not the architect)

All too often, clients choose to avoid this additional cost – to their detriment.

Cousins says, “Renovating or building a house is often the single largest financial investment people make, therefore engaging a quantity surveyor to prepare a cost plan to assist with guiding this investment is worthwhile.”

She advises engaging a quantity surveyor at the end of the concept design phase. “The cost will vary depending on the size of the project and how many cost reviews are carried out, but a single cost plan by a quantity surveyor for a house renovation may cost in the order of $2750.”

Lee goes one step further saying, “Get cost estimates in at least three phases of the project to allow opportunities to revise and adjust your design to meet the budget – before you get emotionally invested in an outcome you can’t afford.” Lee recommends costing the project:

• at concept design (especially if deciding on which option to proceed with)
• before lodging for development approval (so you don’t get approval on a design you can’t afford to build)
• when getting your building approval or construction certificate (NSW terminology).

Archicentre Australia offers a residential design feasibility report for those considering a renovation or new build, with a draft concept plan and broad cost assessment for $3,300–4,600, depending on the scope of the project.

5. Have a contingency 

Lee recommends having a contingency of 15–20% in the renovation budget for unexpected costs or variations that can arise during construction.

Final words of advice

Be aware of your rights and familiarise yourself with the Code of Conduct for architects or designers in your state.

Be as clear as possible with your architect about what you want to achieve, what you need and what you can afford. Ask all questions about what will be done for what costs before signing the contract.

Keep asking your architect or designer about cost implications of any suggestions or changes. Listen, and be prepared to take their advice and be realistic.

And make any changes as early as possible – the later they are made the more likely it will incur a cost.

The post Five steps to house plans that won’t blow your budget appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• What are the different drill types?
• What is the chuck size and drill bit?
• Torque and drill speeds explained
• Buying the best drill battery
• Can the battery power other tools?
• Other features to look for

Remember, don’t focus on the bargain when it comes to buying what should be one of the most important parts of your DIY arsenal.

What are the different drill types?

There are two main types of drills: the drill/driver and the hammer drill.

• Drill/drivers are used for drilling holes and driving screws into timber, metal or plastic. This is the most popular type and it’s what we review.
• Hammer drills do the same but also have a hammer setting that rocks the drill bit in and out for drilling into masonry (brick, stone and concrete). They tend to be a bit heavier than drill/drivers.

Beyond this you might also come across rotary hammers, which are essentially a heavy-duty version of the hammer drill and mostly used by tradies, as well as impact drivers, which are designed specifically for driving screws or loosening bolts.

Some people keep two drills, one for drilling and one for driving, as many projects involve both tasks. Many brands offer kits that include a drill/driver and an impact driver for this reason, or other combinations such as drill/driver and hammer drill.

What is the chuck size and drill bit?

The chuck is the part at the end of the drill where the drill bit goes. What’s a drill bit? The thing that you stick in the chuck to drill holes or screws into things.

Drill bits are available in a range of sizes (sold individually or in packs) that you swap out to suit the job. The chuck size indicates the minimum and maximum bit sizes that will fit in the drill. Both the bit and the chuck and measured in millimetres.

Most drills have a maximum chuck size of 13mm, which is large enough for typical home repairs. Smaller and cheaper drills often only have 10mm chucks, which might be enough if you just want to drill some small holes to hang pictures.

The typical minimum chuck size is between 1–2mm, but it’s not uncommon for manufacturers to only state the maximum size. Realistically though, you’re unlikely to need a bit below 1mm for typical home tasks.

Once you insert the drill bit, all you need to do is rotate the chuck until it locks the bit in place. Older drills required a chuck key for this job but almost any recent model will have a keyless chuck that’s much easier to use.

Using the right bit for the job

The instruction manual should include a chart that shows you which bit sizes are suitable for certain materials. For example, the drill may have a maximum chuck size of 13mm, but recommends bit sizes of 10mm or less for drilling into metal.ÌýBits sold separately will also have this information in the box.

You can find all sorts of bits designed for specific tasks such as masonry or glasswork, and even wide diameter ones for drilling big holes. If you’re unsure, it’s best to speak to an expert at your local hardware store. Just remember to tell them the chuck size or better yet, take your drill in and fit the bit before you buy.

Torque and drill speeds explained

Without getting too scientific about it, torque is basically the force that the drill applies when rotating the bit. The amount of power required varies depending on the material you’re drilling into, which is why drills have adjustable torque settings. But torque is also affected by the speed that the drill is operating at, which is why most drills also have a two-speed gearbox, measured in revolutions per minute.

You don’t want your drill to be operating at maximum power all the time. Otherwise, you could overdrive the screw (aka push it in too far) or strip the head. For example, driving a screw into wood at full torque may overdrive the screw and split the wood.

The torque selector is a range of numbers that wraps around the head of the drill, up near the chuck. All you need to do is rotate it to match the ideal torque for the job. This stops you overdriving or snapping a screw. The clutch should slip when the torque on the screw gets too high, stopping the drill head from turning, so a wide range of clutch settings is useful.

So where does speed come into play? Drill models with a two-speed gearbox give you the option to run the drill at a high or low RPM, which in turn helps you find the ideal settings for your job. While a single-speed model will still have a torque selector, a two-speed gearbox provides that extra little bit of finesse. This is useful as higher speeds equal less torque.

Though the instructions (and a lot of experience) will help you identify the right torque and speed you need, there’s a general rule: harder materials require more torque and less speed.

Buying the best drill battery

Lithium-ion (Li-ion) is the standard battery type that you’ll find with almost all cordless drills. Capacity is measured in ampere hours (Ah) and generally speaking the higher the number, the longer the runtime.

You should also consider the claimed charge rate, especially if you’re looking at a higher capacity battery. After all, you don’t want to spend all afternoon waiting for it to recharge when there’s work to be done.

Battery voltage – measured in volts (V) – is a guide to the power you can expect from the drill. More voltage equals better torque on paper, though our tests show that there’s a lot more to performance than just the voltage.

Do you need a second battery?

As we all know, the one time you want to do a job quickly is the time you realise the battery in the drill is dead, so a second battery makes a lot of sense. As with many tools, it’s a lot less expensive to buy a kit with two batteries than it is to buy an extra battery separately later on.

Can the battery power other tools?

Most consumer-grade drills sold at big name retailers include batteries that can be used in other tools from the same manufacturer. Brands such as Ryobi, Bosch and Makita support this swappable system for other tools like line-trimmers, angle grinders and wet dry vacs. These are also known as “skins”.

It’s always worth checking out the range of skins being sold by each manufacturer as you can save a lot of money, and storage space, by staying in the same ecosystem. Of course, you should never buy an inferior product for the sake of convenience, but it may be a good option if you only need basic tools for home repairs and DIY.

Other features to look for

Belt clip: this is useful for short-term, handsfree storage especially if you’re climbing up and down a ladder.

Brushless motor: these are frictionless which makes them more energy-efficient and quieter. They’re also compact, provide higher torque, have better speed control and performance efficiency.

Carry case: these are usually hard or soft. A hard case will protect the drill, battery and accessories but is heavier and bulkier.

Charging cradle: this is an external mount to charge the battery. Particularly handy if you have two batteries, as one can charge while you use the other.

Charge level display: this indicates how much charge is in the battery.

Light: you’d be surprised at how handy an onboard light can be, as you’ll often find yourself working in small, cramped areas with poor lighting.

Reversible direction: this is essential for removing screws from timber or other material. The rotation button or switch should be reachable with your thumb or forefinger without changing your grip.

The post How to buy the right cordless drill for the job appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• Our expert testers
• How we choose what we test
• How we test cordless drills
• How we score cordless drills

Our expert testers

ÌÇÐÄVlog maintains a highly professional and the vast majority of our product testing is done in-house. Our cordless drill test is no exception.

Many of our product test methods are based on Australian technical standards, but for products like drills, where there aren’t any particular official performance standards, we devise a test method based on practical tests to cover how the product is typically used by people.

How we choose what we test

We test cordless drills/drivers as these are the most popular type of drill for home users. Our aim is to test popular consumer-grade and entry-level professional equipment which is readily available at major retailers like Bunnings and Mitre 10.

We survey manufacturers to find out about their range of products, we check market sales information, and we also check for any member requests to test specific brands or models. From this information we put together a final list that goes to our buyers.

They then head out to the retailers and purchase each product, just as a regular consumer would. We do this so we can be sure the products are the same as any consumer would find them and not ‘tweaked’ in any way.

How we test cordless drills

Drilling score

This is based on the time taken to drill 10 holes with a 13mm spade bit through 45mm hardwood (we use spotted gum). The faster the time, the better the score.

Torque score

This is based on screwing TEK screws of two different sizes (14G 50mm and 14G 75mm, 25 of each) into treated pine (96mm deep). The more screws screwed in (fully flush with the wood), the higher the score.

Ease of use

The drills are assessed for weight and balance, as well as grip comfort.

How we score cordless drills

The overall score is made up of:

• ease of use (40%)
• drilling performance (30%)
• torque (30%).

We recommend cordless drill models with a ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating of 80% or more.

The post How we test cordless drills appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• What carpet material is best?
• Does it make a difference which carpet colour you get?
• What sort of carpet pile should you get?
• What to look for instore
• How much does carpet cost?
• How often do you need to replace carpet?
• Carpet Glossary

Whether you’re carpeting a new room, the whole house or replacing some worn or daggy carpet you’ve had way too long, it’s probably time to get an update on what’s out there. Buying the wrong carpet can be an expensive mistake, so read on as we lay on piles of useful information.

What carpet material is best?

No one fibre is best for everyone – the best carpet choice for you depends on where it will be, who’ll be using it, how much traffic it will get, and the size of your budget.

Wool carpet

Just like your favourite jumper, wool carpet is warm, luxurious and durable. It’s also generally more expensive than other fibres. Wool is good for living areas where appearance is important. It’s naturally stain-resistant in that it resists liquid-based spills and releases dirt easily, but you’ll want to clean up spills quickly. Cheaper wool carpets are likely to pill.

Nylon carpet

Nylon is a tough and durable man-made fibre. It’s very popular for carpets – it’s cheaper than wool and some even look as good but with added stain-resistance. Nylon carpet will hold its colour against cleaning and sunlight, and it’s ideal for use in high-traffic areas for families with children or pets.

Polypropylene carpet

Polypropylene is a synthetic fibre, popular because it’s inexpensive, water-resistant and durable. It’s often used for rental properties, garages or playrooms, but it looks and feels cheap because it is.

Blends

Wool and nylon blend carpet can give you the benefits of both at a lower cost than pure wool carpet.

The luxurious Axminster and Wilton carpets use an 80/20 wool/nylon blend and offer the same quality and durability as pure wool. 50/50 wool/nylon blends can be difficult to clean, as stain-resistance can’t be added to the nylon when it’s blended. These blends also tend to use poorer quality wool yarn that will pill.

What else do you need to know about buying carpet?

Before you hit the shops

Have an idea of the colour and type of pile you want, but remember, it’s not just about aesthetics. It’s recommended you get professional carpet cleaning once a year – the right colour and pile can help hide dirt and stains in between cleaning.

Does it make a difference which carpet colour you get?

• Lighter colours are great for small rooms as they’ll make them seem larger, but they’ll show stains more readily than darker shades.
• Dark colours hide stains but show lint.
• Speckled carpets with lighter and darker fibres will disguise stains and lint, but some people think they always look dirty, even when clean.

If you’re looking at colours online, remember they may look quite different in person – your screen can have all sorts of flaws, as can the picture you’re seeing. If you can, pop into a carpet store to see it with your own eyes, or have a sample sent out to you.

What sort of carpet pile should you get?

The pile is how long the fibres of the carpet are – the longer the pile, the shaggier the carpet.

• Loop pile carpet has individual strands of yarn pulled twice through the carpet backing to create a small loop. It has a more casual look, hides footprints better and is well suited to high-traffic areas, especially shorter loops.

• Cut pile carpets have the loops cut at the top, leaving tufts of yarn that stand straight up. It has a more luxurious, formal look than loop pile, but tends to show light and dark areas including footprints and vacuum cleaner tracks – something you don’t see in the catalogues!

• Twist pile carpets try to solve the above issue of showing up footprints and vacuum tracks by tightly twisting the fibre ends – but again, they do tend to show dark and light patches over time.

• Cut and loop pile carpets mean you can create different heights in the pile, which means you can design textured patterns into carpet. While this is good for hiding dirt and footprints, they can wear more quickly.

What to look for instore

When it comes time to hit the carpet store, there are some things to check to make sure your carpet of choice is up to the job.

Density

Density refers to the amount of pile yarn in the carpet and how close the tufts are to one another. Check the density by bending the carpet sample in a U shape with the tufts facing out. The less carpet backing you see, the denser the carpet. As a rule, the denser, the better.

Durability: look for the label

Density is part of the durability story – the quality of the fibre and construction also contribute, and that can be hard for the average punter to gauge.

The Carpet Institute of Australia has developed the Australian Carpet Classification Scheme (ACCS). It’s a voluntary industry labelling and grading system for carpets of all fibres and is used by all the major suppliers.

Carpets carry a star-rating out of six for residential use (four for commercial or contract use) which shows how well it performed in independent wear and performance tests. The label also says whether the carpet should be used in areas of light, medium, heavy or extra heavy traffic. Get a heavy-duty rating for high-traffic areas such as stairs, halls, entranceways, the kids’ playroom, the path between the sofa and the fridge…

Try before you buy

Lighting and surrounding colours and materials will influence how your carpet looks in your home. Take samples home and check them in each room under different lighting conditions – natural daylight, artificial lighting, candlelight, disco lights or any other lighting you use.

Underlay

Underlay can help your carpet last longer, absorb sound, cover minor bumps and holes in the floor and provide insulation. Choose it when you buy your carpet.

You’ll probably choose between foam underlay and rubber underlay. Underlay varies in quality, so stand on it to test that it feels firm but comfortable – you shouldn’t be able to feel the floor with the heel of your shoe.

Installation

It will probably be cheaper to get the carpet installed by the company you buy it from. Make sure you get a fully itemised quote – most quotes from retailers will include underlay and installation, but they won’t always include moving the furniture.

How much does carpet cost?

Carpet is usually priced by the broadloom metre. Remember to convert to square metres when comparing carpet prices to other floor coverings, such as tiles or timber.

Nylon carpet can range from $125–300 per broadloom metre, wool carpets can range from $140–500 and polypropylene carpets from $65–180.

How often do you need to replace carpet?

Depending on the traffic, stains and wear the carpet endures, you can plan on replacing your carpet once every 10–15 years. High-traffic areas such as hallways and living areas are likely to degrade faster. It’s worth keeping hold of the offcuts, or buying extra when you originally install the carpet, as you’ll be able to replace these areas as necessary – while a stop gap solution, it’ll extend the life of your carpet’s look and feel.

Carpet Glossary

Broadloom metre: 1m x 3.66m

Solution-dying is where colour is added to the nylon carpet fibre during production, rather than applied to the surface afterwards, making it colourfast against cleaning and sunlight.

Berber carpets have thick yarns tufted into chunky loop tufts. They’re usually in earth tones with a ‘flecked’ appearance, which is excellent for hiding stains.

Sisal-style/cord carpets have tighter loops than berbers, creating a stiffer feel and are good for high-traffic areas.

Velvet/plush carpets have the pile cut several times to create a velvety sheen, but this also shows every footprint.

Saxony carpets are similar to velvet, but not quite as smooth.

Freize/twist carpets have tightly twisted fibres that curl slightly at the pile surface. They hide footprints and vacuum marks, making them suitable for high-traffic areas.

The post How to buy the best carpet appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• Timber flooring
• Tiles
• Other hard floors

Others love the cool, smooth feel of tiles – not just for bathrooms but living areas as well. They’re long-lasting and easy to maintain. First used in ancient Egypt and Greece, natural stone flooring has certainly stood the test of time.

People love hard floors because they are fairly low maintenance, easy to clean, and they wear well. It’s also the flooring of choice for people with allergies as hard floors won’t harbour dust mites the way carpet can. But you still need to take care of timber and tiles to make sure they last you a long time. You also want to choose right for your budget, but luckily there’s a wide range of options for all hard floor lovers.

Although cork, rubber, vinyl and polished concrete are all hard flooring options, timber and tiles are still the most popular.

Timber flooring

Timber flooring has very wide appeal and comes in a variety of looks and styles. You can choose between structural solid plank floorboards that slot together, parquetry designs, and floating floors that can be overlaid on pre-existing solid floors.

Timber flooring is very durable, comfortable, low-allergenic and easy to care for. But it is not entirely ‘lay and forget’. You need to buff and re-coat high traffic areas every three to four years – not just to keep it looking good, but also to maintain its moisture resistance to prevent warping and other problems. However the downside is that if you get a very heavy scratch, you’ll need to sand back and re-coat the entire area the scratch is in – a lot more expensive.

Well-sealed timber will resist spills, stains and chemicals, but if left unsealed it can stain, dent and scratch easily – not very practical for homes.

Structural timber floors

These are the traditional type of timber boards laid on bearers or joists. Boards of structural flooring typically come in 100 and 150mm widths and are generally available in various click-together tongue and groove designs.

Structural floors should really be installed by a professional, but it can be a time-consuming process. Timber boards need to acclimatise to their environment, so you may need to leave them for up to two weeks to settle in before laying them.

Cost

Cost varies according to the grade of timber. Generally, three grades are available:

• The cheapest (around $40/m²) has more knots, grain and natural variation.
• ‘Standard’ or mid-grade timber ($50–$70/m²).
• The most expensive grade ($60–$100/m²) has the fewest defects.

Boards can be ordered up to 30mm thick, but 19mm is a fairly standard thickness.

Popular species include brush box, blackbutt, spotted gum and jarrah, but there are at least 20 varieties to choose from.

Although timber is generally regarded as a good environmental building material choice, the logging of native old-growth forests remains a subject of heated debate. If you’re concerned, choose a product certified as originating from sustainably managed plantations or use recycled timber. See our sustainable flooring guide for more information.

Floating timber floors

Unlike structural timber floors, floating floors aren’t attached to a subfloor system — they’re laid over the existing solid floor, such as tiles, concrete, timber floorboards, plywood, particle board or cork.

They’re usually installed on underlay, which provides good noise insulation for use in multi-storey apartment buildings and homes.

Because floating floors aren’t nailed down like conventional floorboards, any movement in the boards is spread across the entire floor, which makes gaps less likely to appear, however they are less popular these days due to the click clack noise that develops when gaps do appear.

Timber floating floors consist of tongue-and-groove boards made from a thin layer of softwood or hardwood bonded to a high-density fibreboard substrate. They’re often pre-coated to enhance their wearability (polyurethane is common), but it’s possible to coat after installation. They can also be sanded back and refurbished if necessary.

Laminated ‘faux’ timber finishes are widely available and are commonly referred to as laminate flooring. If you go for this option, make sure you’re happy with how closely (or otherwise) it resembles the real thing.

Cost

Floating floors vary in cost, depending on the thickness and the type of feature timber. Prices start from around $40/m² up to $100/m² (which may or may not include underlay – around $5–$10/m²).

Laminated ‘timber-look’ products are priced from around $25/m².

Choosing a floating floor means you could possibly install it yourself and save a lot of money. But some products still recommend professional installation. Typical professional installation costs are around $30–$40/m2, which includes underlay.

Is bamboo for you?

Bamboo is a renewable resource that grows faster than timber. It’s also a very hard-wearing and durable surface. For these reasons it’s becoming a popular flooring alternative to timber. Natural (uncarbonised) bamboo is very hard and quite scratch resistant, but it tends to darken if you don’t protect it from direct sunlight.

Cost

Bamboo costs around $90/m2 for either structural or floating floor boards. Installation of structural boards will cost you around $50–$60/m2.

Tiles

There’s a vast array of ceramic, natural and man-made stone tiles in a huge range of designs and styles.

Porcelain tiles

Porcelain tiles are a type of ceramic and are good for indoor and outdoor flooring – they’re more hard-wearing and easier to maintain than natural stone.

They come in two types: glazed or vitrified (also known as full-bodied). Vitrified tiles are the same colour all the way through, so unlike glazed tiles, if they’re chipped or in very heavy wear situations, they’ll retain their original colour.

Glazed tiles are around $20/m² to $100/m². Vitrified porcelain tiles come in a ‘natural’ (from around $50/m²) or polished finish (from around $90/m²).

Natural stone tiles

Natural stone like travertine, shellstone, limestone and marble are also popular materials for floor tiles. They will probably need to be re-sealed regularly to protect them from water and wear, because natural stone tends to be porous.

Prices start from around $80/m². Depending on your particular situation, installation of tiles will generally add around another $50/m² to the cost.

Other hard floors

If timber or tiles aren’t for you, and you don’t want carpet, some other hard flooring materials you could consider include:

Cork

Pros include hard-wearing aesthetic appeal and comfy, soft, warm feel underfoot. It’s also easy to clean when sealed and resists fading

On the downside, it has relatively poor water and stain resistance unless it’s well-sealed.

Rubber

Pros include softness underfoot, durability and fade resistance.

Cons include being relatively difficult to clean and poor resistance to marks, stains and indentations.

Vinyl

Pros include an almost inexhaustible range of styles, patterns and colours, easy maintenance, fairly soft underfoot and good fade-resistance. It’s also priced to suit a range of budgets and is easy to install, even DIY. There is now a version of vinyl called vinyl planking, which is not glued down and, if damaged, planks can be removed individually to replace rather than the entire flooring. These tend to be used in rental places these days.

Cons include poor resistance to scratching and indentations, and cheaper versions may be considered a relatively short-term flooring option.

Polished concrete

Pros include a modern look, with various colours and embedded contrast (aggregate) to create a distinctive look; can be hard-wearing (depending on the seal) and easy to clean. Under the right conditions – adjacent to large, north-facing windows – it can be used to provide passive heating in winter.

Cons are its hardness – it’s unforgiving of falls or dropped crockery – and it can be cold in winter if it isn’t heated by sun or artificial heating. Polished concrete is best done at construction stage when it will be less expensive than retrofitting.

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On this page:

• Get covered with the basics
• Know your flooring
• Other things to consider
• Asthma and allergies an issue?

There are many different kinds of flooring on the market today and lots of new ‘green’ flooring products. It can be difficult to know where to start.

Get covered with the basics

Because flooring has a major influence on the feel and mood of a room, it’s important to make the right choice. And, ka-ching, it’s expensive, so even more reason to get it right. You have to consider how much traffic it’ll get and factor in maintenance and durability, as well as appearance, comfort and cost.

This overview takes you through the pros and cons of different flooring options and suggests what’s best in different rooms.

Know your flooring

Soft flooring

Soft flooring options include carpet and natural fibre alternatives such as sisal and jute. They are comfortable to walk on and good for insulation.

• Carpet keeps your home cooler in summer and warmer in winter, it’s quiet to walk on and helps insulate noise, it’s not slippery (which is good for older people), and it’s relatively easy to maintain. However, it’s not as easy to keep clean as hard floors, and stains can spoil the look.
• Natural fibre flooring includes sisal, which is made from the leaves of the agave plant; coir, made from coconut husks; and seagrass. These materials are durable and very stain-resistant (if spills are cleaned properly and quickly), but colours and styles are limited and on the whole they feel rougher than regular carpet. Jute, which is extracted from the inner bark of a plant grown in Asia, is a finer floor covering and softer to walk on, but it’s generally not recommended for high traffic areas. Natural fibre coverings such as these should not be used near wet areas.

Hard flooring

Hard flooring options cover timber, tiles, polished concrete, cork, rubber and vinyl. They’re easy to clean and durable.

• Timber flooring, including floating floors and bamboo flooring, is highly durable and if well sealed will be resistant to spills, stains and chemicals. It’s easy to look after, good for people with allergies and it won’t take on the smell of your beloved pooch or pussycat like carpet does. However, high traffic areas will need buffing and recoating every three to four years. This isn’t just about keeping it looking good – it’s about maintaining moisture resistance to prevent warping and other problems. Huge scratches mean re-sanding an entire area which is quite a bit more expensive than buffing.
• Tiles are hard-wearing, easy to look after, moisture-resistant (if sealed) and cool underfoot in summer. However, they’re pretty hard on the feet if you’re standing a long time, and they can be cold in winter unless you have underfloor heating or use rugs to walk on.
• Polished concrete has a modern look, is easy to clean and, depending on the quality of seal, can be hard-wearing. Like tiles, it’s hard underfoot and very unforgiving of falls (think kids or elderly people) or dropped crockery, and can be cold in winter unless the sun can heat it up. Like wood, it may need to be resealed every so often.
• Cork is hard-wearing while also being comfy, soft and warm to walk on. Sealed cork flooring is easy to clean and will resist fading – it actually goes darker if it has the sun on it. Polyurethane, over time, will go a dark, yellow colour. If it isn’t well sealed it’ll be susceptible to water and stains.
• Rubber flooring is soft underfoot, durable and won’t fade quickly. Cons include being relatively difficult to clean and poor resistance to marks, stains and indentations.
• Vinyl flooring comes in an almost unlimited range of styles, patterns and colours. It’s easy to maintain, is fairly soft underfoot and won’t fade quickly. It’s more affordable and easier to install – even DIY – than the other flooring types. Cons include poor resistance to scratching and indentations. Cheaper versions may only be suitable as a short-term flooring option. Vinyl plank is also available which is a newer type of vinyl. It doesn’t get glued down so if one plank gets damaged, you don’t need to pull the whole lot up. Some even have acoustics built into them.

Other things to consider

Where’s it going?

You need to choose flooring that works with the purpose of the room or the area. You’ll probably need more than one type throughout the house.

In living rooms the aim is usually to combine good looks with practicality. Timber (possibly teamed up with rugs) and carpet are the most popular options.

• In the kitchen you want flooring that cleans up quickly and easily – generally, hard flooring like tile, stone and timber is a good choice. Love to make risotto? A mat in spots where you stand a long time can make it more comfortable. Some softer floorings such as sealed cork, vinyl or even rubber can also work well in kitchens.
• Tiles are ideal for the bathroom, but they need to be non-slip and the grout should be sealed as well as the tiles. Timber is less practical and needs to be properly waterproofed.
• In bedrooms, carpet is king. It looks and feels soft and luxurious, it’s warm and cosy underfoot in winter, and provides sound and temperature insulation. The downside is it needs regular vacuuming to keep dust and allergen levels low. Timber is the next most popular choice, and it does look great and is easy to care for, but it can be noisy and not very effective at insulation. Floor rugs help, particularly in winter.
• The rough and tumble treatment dealt out in a kids play room begs for hard-wearing flooring, and preferably cheap enough so you don’t have a heart attack when they get a little too creative with the paints. Since kids spend a lot of time on the floor, softer coverings may be more comfortable. Consider cheap polypropylene carpet, cork or vinyl. When it becomes the teenage retreat, you can replace it. Or not.

Asthma and allergies an issue?

There’s a lot of conflicting research about whether people with allergies should have wall-to-wall carpet.

Allergies are often caused by house dust mites, which thrive in warm, humid environments and are commonly found in carpet, bedding, soft furnishings and clothing.

However, there’s also a growing body of research that suggests carpet actually traps the dust mites rather than allowing them to become airborne and is therefore more beneficial to allergy sufferers.

While research continues, many experts are still advising people with allergies to go for hard floor coverings that can be easily cleaned, and floor rugs that can be washed and exposed to sunlight.

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