But with several different types of alarms out there, it can be confusing to know which ones you need in your house. Read on for information that will set you straight – and hopefully prevent you from having to wave the tea towel at a screaming alarm every time you burn your toast.

Types of smoke alarms

There are two main types of smoke alarm for home use: ionisation and photoelectric alarms.

Ionisation alarms

These contain a very small amount of radioactive material, which reacts to particles emitted in a fire and sets off the alarm. Ionisation alarms are best at detecting fast-flaming fires that don’t emit much visible smoke. But many house fires tend to be smoky and smouldering long before they flare into flame, and ionisation alarms aren’t as quick at detecting these. They can also be prone to nuisance alarms from cooking and steam, so shouldn’t be located near your kitchen or bathroom. 

Photoelectric alarms

These contain a photo cell and a light beam shining away from the cell. When smoke enters the test chamber, some of the light is scattered by the smoke particles and hits the cell, triggering the alarm. Photoelectric alarms are best at detecting smoky and smouldering fires, which is a common type of house fire. Dust or insects entering the unit can cause false alarms, so they have to be cleaned occasionally.

Dual sensor alarms

These contain both an ionisation sensor and a photoelectric sensor, and so they get the best and worst features of both types. They can be a good option but as with any ionisation alarm, don’t install them near a kitchen or bathroom.

Other types of alarms

There are two other types of home alarms that are useful for particular situations:

• Carbon monoxide alarms – often used to ensure safe operation of central heating systems. Carbon monoxide is a waste product of gas heating, so if you have gas heating (whether ducted or an unflued gas heater) it’s worth installing a carbon monoxide alarm, in case the heater develops a fault and the waste carbon monoxide gets into your home at dangerous levels.
• Heat alarms – ideal for kitchens as they detect heat rather than smoke, so aren’t prone to nuisance alarms from cooking fumes.

Even if you have one of these specialised alarms, you should always have standard smoke alarms as well.

Which type of smoke alarm is best?

When we previously tested smoke alarms, our ÌÇÐÄVlog experts found that photoelectric alarms were the best type for homes, as recommended by most fire authorities. Photoelectric smoke alarms are usually much faster at detecting smoke from smouldering synthetic material than ionisation alarms. In a typical house fire, burning material smoulders and smokes for a long time (possibly a few hours) before flaring into flames. 

It’s crucial to detect the fire early in the smouldering phase so you can deal with the fire or escape the house; the longer the fire goes on, the more smoke can fill the home and become an inhalation and visibility hazard. 

Studies have shown that photoelectric alarms typically respond to smoky fires within about three to five minutes. Ionisation alarms can take much longer – up to 20 minutes or more – by which time escape can be much more difficult. 

ÌÇÐÄVlog tests previously showed that some ionisation alarms can respond quickly to smouldering fires, including smouldering synthetic material such as polyurethane foam, though generally photoelectric alarms outperform them in this situation. 

Our previous tests also showed that ionisation alarms are also usually very quick to detect flaming fires, but a common scenario for this type of fire in the home is a cooking fire when you are likely to be nearby and see the fire yourself anyway. However, because of the way they work, ionisation alarms tend to be more prone to nuisance alarms caused by cooking fumes or burnt toast. 

So while ionisation alarms can give a useful additional level of fire protection, they should not be the only type you have in your home. 

Dual sensor alarms (which contain both ionisation and photoelectric sensors) are also worth considering, provided they aren’t installed in a location (such as near a kitchen) where the ionisation sensor could be prone to nuisance alarms from cooking. 

No smoke alarm can actually tell the difference between nuisance smoke and a real fire; the challenge is to get the sensitivity just right.

What to look for in a smoke alarm

Standards Australia certification or ActivFire registration

This ensures the alarm complies with the Australian Standard for smoke alarms, AS 3786, as required by law. Note that different states may specify different versions of the standard. The CSIRO ActivFire Scheme is an independently operated product certification and listing scheme.

10-year battery 

Some models come with a pre-installed non-removable 10-year battery, typically a lithium battery, which will last for the life of the smoke alarm. This means you don’t need to remember to change the battery each year.

Test button

This allows you to check the alarm is working. Some models can be tested by shining a torch on the alarm, or by using a household remote control (such as a TV remote). This eliminates the need to climb a ladder or reach up with a broom handle to press a button – especially good for high ceilings or if you’re not very mobile.

Hush button

Pressing this button silences nuisance alarms for a few minutes – handy if you’ve burnt the toast and set off the alarm, as it gives you some quiet while the smoke dissipates. Some alarms can even be silenced by remote control.

Battery test 

Battery-powered models should monitor their own battery level and warn you when the battery needs changing by beeping every few seconds. 

Escape light 

Some models feature a light that turns on when the alarm is activated. This is helpful if there’s a power failure during a fire, as it can guide you out of the house. 

Interconnection 

Most mains-powered and some battery-powered alarms can be connected to each other, so that if one goes off, so do the rest, helping ensure that everyone in the home is alerted as soon as possible.

Features for people who are hard of hearing or deaf

For people who are deaf or hard of hearing, there are special products available such as ultra-loud alarms, strobe lights, and vibrating pads for your bed. For details, contact your state’s Deaf Society, or fire brigade.

Insect screen

Most modern smoke alarms have insect screens to help prevent insects setting off false alarms. But it’s worth giving the smoke alarms a clean with a vacuum cleaner every once in a while to ensure dust hasn’t built up in the air inlets, as it could set off nuisance alarms or even reduce the alarm’s effectiveness at detecting smoke.

What’s the law about smoke alarms?

Smoke alarms are legally required for most residences in Australia. Each state and territory have different requirements, so please check your state’s current requirements when replacing a smoke alarm, or when building or renovating. While the minimum may be one alarm per home, more alarms might be required depending on the layout of the home. Click the state name for links to relevant state authorities and regulations.

NSW 

Queensland

Victoria

South Australia

Western Australia

Tasmania

(Tasmania Government)

Northern Territory

ACT

More tips on fire security

Smoke alarms are just one part of keeping your home and your family safe in the event of a fire. Also consider these ideas:

• A fire blanket in the kitchen for dealing with a cooktop fire
• A fire extinguisher to put out small fires before they get out of control
• An escape plan, which all residents are familiar with, so everyone knows what to do in the event of a fire, the best way to evacuate, and where to gather outside the home.

Cost of smoke alarms

A basic ionisation alarm can be very cheap – from under $10. A fancier model can be closer to $50. Photoelectric alarms can be found for less than $20, but can cost up to $100. Most smoke alarms should be replaced every 10 years.

The post How to buy the best smoke alarm appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• What are smart doorbells and what do they do?
• How do smart doorbells work?
• Do I need a smart doorbell with a camera?
• Other smart doorbell features
• Do I need a smart hub for my doorbell?
• Are smart doorbells safe?
• Are smart doorbells legal to use?
• Can I install a smart doorbell myself?
• Smart doorbells vs security cameras

But what if you could see who’s outside your home, no matter where you are, by looking at your smartphone? 

That’s what smart doorbells are for.

What are smart doorbells and what do they do?

Smart doorbells are internet-connected devices that work like a video intercom – but are much smarter and can do so much more. 

You can be notified when someone rings your front doorbell, and monitor it using your smartphone. Some models even have a motion sensor to let you see who’s hanging around your front door even if they don’t press the button.

A smart doorbell can either be activated when a button is pressed on the doorbell located at your front door, or it can constantly monitor activity around the device and send a notification to your smartphone showing a live video scene.

How do smart doorbells work?

A smart doorbell is a small device with a video camera, a microphone, and a button that’s connected to the internet through your home network. This means you can check in on visitors or unwanted guests, have a conversation with the person standing next to the smart doorbell and even record video.

As with a traditional doorbell, when the button on a smart doorbell is pressed, you’ll be alerted to the fact that someone is at your front door. But where a traditional doorbell might chime or ring somewhere in the home (via a wire or wireless connection from the doorbell to the ringer or chime), a smart doorbell provides additional options.

Firstly, a smart doorbell can send a notification to a registered smartphone so you can check who’s there, even if you’re not home. You can even talk to the visitor if you like. 

Alternatively, the pressing of a button could start a chime somewhere in the home that’s connected via the wireless network. You can also set up the smart doorbell to play a recording on a network speaker (via Google or Alexa) to call out to someone in the family, such as “Hey Jane, get out of bed and answer the door!”.

Some smart doorbells can sense someone is in the area before they even press the bell, and others support a chain of events happening in the home once the button is pressed. All these actions are possible because it’s a smart device and can be connected to all the other smart devices in your home.

Do smart doorbells need Wi-Fi?

All smart doorbells operate over your wireless (Wi-Fi) network. This is how they send notifications to connected devices such as your smartphone or TV, while you’re at home or away (via remote access).

What makes a good smart doorbell?

A good smart doorbell has clear video and sound, it should be easy to use, and it should be secure against hacking attacks. It should also have a good response time, meaning there’s no delay between when the person presses the main button and when you get notified on your mobile.

What makes a bad smart doorbell?

Poor smart doorbells deliver sound that’s grating and unintelligible, and video quality that doesn’t show who is actually at your door. The installation and set-up for some of the worst models will most likely lead you to putting the device in the ‘too hard basket’ and returning to a simple $30 doorbell.

Do I need a smart doorbell with a camera?

All the smart doorbells we’ve tested come with a camera, and one of the best things about the device is being able to see the person at your door. Unlike security cameras, there’s no real need to record the footage, but some of the models can capture video to view later. 

Angle of view can be an important part of the camera performance. The models in our smart doorbell review ranged from around 100 degrees, which is fairly narrow, right up to 180 degrees, which means you can see who’s at your door even if they’re standing off to the side.

Most are capable of capturing high-definition video and a few even support higher resolutions. This added detail can be useful if you need to identify features or objects in the footage, but it also relies on the quality of the lens and processor. For example, a smart doorbell may be able to capture 2K footage, but it will still lack detail if the camera optics are poor.

They store recordings on a hard drive in the doorbell, in the cloud or on a storage device on your home network, such as a NAS drive. Some models let you add additional storage with a microSD card.

Other smart doorbell features

Cloud storage

Offsite storage in the cloud lets you access footage remotely, though this often requires a monthly subscription fee (to cover server costs). 

Most doorbells with this feature can back up footage automatically by either constantly recording, uploading and overwriting footage throughout the day, or isolating and uploading specific interactions such as a package delivery. 

They also typically identify and isolate events and interactions so the footage isn’t deleted by mistake.

Facial recognition

Some doorbells can learn to identify regular visitors over time, such as family members, the mailman, cleaners etc. You can change or disable alerts for these familiar faces.

IFTTT

IFTTT (If This Then That) allows a series of actions to be performed when a button is pressed, by linking with an app installed on your smartphone. 

Once you add features like a chime and smart lock, you can tell Google to let someone in the house or even customise the chime feature to work with a smart speaker to let you know someone is at the front door.

Infrared lighting

Improves video quality in low light conditions.

Local storage

Usually a microSD slot or hard drive connected via your local network. Some brands, such as Eufy, sell smart hubs with local storage support as well. This is a useful alternative if you don’t want to pay for cloud backup.

Weather protection

Check the specifications to make sure that the doorbell has some kind of weather sealing, even if it’s in an alcove or undercover. Generic terms like “weather- or water-resistant” are OK but an ingress protection (IP) rating is much better. This rating will outline the water and dust protection in detail.

Do I need a smart hub for my doorbell?

Some brands, such as Eufy, TP-Link and Lockly, sell optional smart hubs that connect to the doorbell via your home network. These are usually designed to substantially increase storage, which gives you the option to keep more video footage on hand and enable continuous recording.

But they can also add extra features to the doorbell, as well as other devices in your home, from the same brand. For example, instead of just identifying motion, Eufy doorbells can spot the difference between humans, pets and vehicles when you connect them to the HomeBase 3. This capability isn’t possible without the hub.

Are smart doorbells safe?

Smart doorbells with cameras let you see who’s at the door anywhere at home or when you are away, but it’s important to note that these are internet-connected and as such are vulnerable to attacks. 

Some of these devices also send information online through internet servers that the user has no control over once the ‘permissions’ button is pressed. The problem is that the permissions button must be pressed to provide access to all the cool features you may want.

Our testers look at the following to help you decide to what level you need to be concerned about the security of the smart doorbell you buy. 

• The privacy policy. Is there one and is it easy to find? We found that most of the products provide a link either online or in the associated app, so the most important next step is to actually read it and make sure you’re happy to continue.
• Where data is stored. Does video go to offshore servers for processing or storage? Most data is stored in different countries with variable levels of security. Our tester could find the destination for some of the servers for the models we tested, but others weren’t disclosed. This could be an issue as you basically send your personal information out into the internet without knowing where it’s stored and for how long.
• How easy it is to change your password and update the software. We found the ability to delete personal information after our test finished (factory reset) was more difficult than it should be.

Protecting your privacy

There are a number of things you can do to ensure security for your smart doorbell, and these actions should be carried out for all the smart devices in your home:

• Change your password as soon as you install the device (don’t keep the default).
• Don’t make your new password a simple, easy-to-remember word, as hackers will find it simple and easy to crack.
• Keep up with the security updates as they come out.

Are smart doorbells legal to use?

States and territories have strict rules regarding the use of surveillance equipment for home security and recording and storing footage. Smart doorbells cover a lot of the same ground as they’re designed to be always on, used for surveillance and can capture footage.

Laws vary depending on where you live, but it all comes down to consent between the parties involved and whether interactions are taking place in what could reasonably be considered private or public locations. There are also important distinctions between what is considered intentional recording or surveillance and what is captured incidentally.

You have a responsibility to ensure that your smart doorbell doesn’t infringe on the privacy of others, including neighbours and visitors to your home. Click the drop down menus below for an overview of what you can and can’t do and contact the police in your area for legal confirmation if you have concerns.

Please note that this guide was accurate at the time of writing. Legislation may have changed.

Can I install a smart doorbell myself?

In most cases, installing a smart doorbell will be an afternoon’s task for most people, requiring no more than a couple of screws into the wall next to the door. 

The biggest part of installing a smart doorbell is connecting the device to your home network and setting up the app on your smartphone, and for this you may need the expertise of someone else.

Smart doorbells vs security cameras

A smart doorbell and security camera may seem to perform the same task, but there are a couple of important differences to consider before you choose one or the other.

A security camera offers features like video streaming, saving video either on your home network or in the cloud, while smart doorbells offer this feature as an extra option only. Security cameras are also designed to perform well at night when it’s dark, and they also incorporate motion sensors.

Security cameras also don’t have a button to let you know there’s someone at the front door.

The post Should you get a smart doorbell? appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• What kind of security door do you need?
• What to look for in a security door
• How much do security screen doors cost?
• Security screen doors that claim to meet Australian Standards
• How to clean your security screen door

So what can you do? 

If the ads on TV are to be believed, you could install a fancy security door and let in all the air and light you want, while still preventing (or at least delaying) someone from sneaking in.

The thing is, while they do provide some level of protection, security doors are still penetrable – some more so than others – given enough time and the right equipment. 

And how it’s been installed can also reduce its effectiveness. Attaching a security screen to a weak door frame or allowing enough space to get good jimmying leverage are two examples. 

So if you feel like you need a security screen door, read on for advice on how to make sure you get security, and not just a door.

What kind of security door do you need?

It all depends on how much security you need and the look you want for your home. 

If you live in a neighbourhood prone to break-ins, you might want to consider a steel door with a steel grille. 

If you just want to give the appearance of security while keeping out bugs, a sturdy aluminium door could be enough. 

For those who just want an insect screen, a cheap aluminium option might suffice.

What to look for in a security door

There are lots of different types of doors out there with different combinations of features.

Meeting Australian Standards

Unfortunately, in most states a product advertised as a “security screen door” may only secure you against flies: the term is meaningless unless the door can be shown to meet Australian Standard AS5039-2023. 

There’s also a standard for installation (AS5040), and you should ask the installation company for a written guarantee that its work complies.

You might also encounter claims that a door is equivalent to a better-known brand, such as Crimsafe. This can be hard to verify; if in doubt, check with the company being used as the comparison.

Frame

The frame can be steel or aluminium.

• Industry experts say a steel door (if properly constructed and installed) is regarded as the most effective security screen door. If a steel door meets the Australian Standard, it’ll be protected against corrosion.
• Aluminium is less prone to corrosion than steel.
• The frame should have a deep receiver channel for the grille, so the edge can’t be pushed out of the frame easily. Make sure the connection between the main part of the frame and the receiver channel is sturdy.
• It should also be reinforced at the corners. Doors may have internal corner stakes, which you won’t be able to see, but fully welded corner joints are likely to be stronger.

Infill

The infill can be made from steel (in the form of bars or a decorative motif), aluminium grille, structural grade aluminium perforated sheet, or stainless steel mesh.

• Steel bars, motifs or grilles are considered the most secure option.
• Aluminium grilles are generally little more than flyscreens. You can get heavy-duty ones which at least look secure.
• Stainless steel mesh doors are made with aluminium or steel frames that are in-filled with woven stainless steel mesh. These doors promise security without spoiling your view with bars and grilles – it’s much like looking through a flyscreen.
• Structural-grade aluminium perforated sheets are new to the market. They look very similar to the stainless steel mesh, but aren’t as expensive. According to industry insiders, they are as secure as stainless steel mesh.

Grilles

The cords of the grille should be thick. However, even the strongest grille isn’t worth much if it isn’t fixed to the door frame properly.

• On many doors the grille is riveted to the frame. Make sure the door doesn’t have aluminium rivets in accessible positions. Look for rivets that are clinched at the back of the frame, and that aren’t too far apart: at least one every 25cm, and ideally every second connection point should be riveted. However, rivets may be badly aligned and therefore won’t fully connect with the grille.
• Doors that use screw clamps claim the screws hold the mesh in place better than those that use plastic; doors that use plastic clamps claim there’s reduced risk of galvanic corrosion from an aluminium frame coming into contact with stainless steel mesh. We haven’t seen independent evidence to support either claim.
• A grille that’s welded to the frame may be more reliable; again, no more than 25cm between welding spots and ideally at every connection point.

Locks

Key locks should be five-pin cylinder or equivalent. Wafer locks are more vulnerable. A three-point lock may prevent the bottom or top of the door being wrenched back by an intruder, and should also spread the force of an attack. Some locks on the market now offer a 25-year warranty.

Hinges

The door should have at least three hinges with fixed hinge pins that can’t be removed. A fixed steel pin (‘dog bolt’) that’s welded into the hinge leaf, rather than just pressed into it, gives additional protection. The bigger the pin, the better. 

Ideally the hinges should be recessed or the door should have a hinge filling between the door and the frame that doesn’t allow access for jimmying. A single hinge that runs along the full length of the frame does the same job.

Custom design

Security doors should almost always be custom-made, because installing them so they meet the Australian Standard can be a matter of mere millimetres.

Protection from corrosion

Doors that meet the Australian Standard, whether the frame is aluminium or steel, have non-corrosive properties. To prevent rust in steel doors that don’t meet the Australian Standard, especially if you live near the sea, consider getting one that’s been hot-dip galvanised and powder-coated.

Company reputation

Try to find out the reputation of the companies you’re dealing with: start with researching how long they’ve been in business and whether there have been any complaints against them. For example, you can call your state’s crime prevention or fair trading departments. 

If the company is a member of the Australian Security Industry Association Limited () or the National Security Screen Association (), you know it has to meet certain quality requirements, and you can lodge a complaint with the association if you’re not happy.

Fire safety

Check how easy it will be to get out of your home in case of fire or other emergency.

How much do security screen doors cost?

Aluminium

You can buy an aluminium screen door for around $250–350, but it’s likely to be little more than a flyscreen. For a custom-made aluminium security door that meets the Australian Standard, you’re looking at a minimum of $450.

Steel

A really cheap steel door can be had from $250, but these tend to be made from very thin steel and won’t be particularly good. Quality custom-made steel doors start from about $650, but they get significantly more expensive.

Stainless steel mesh

These start from $800, but some of the more well-known brands (including Crimsafe) will charge well over $1000.

Structural grade aluminium perforated sheet

One of these will set you back at least $650.

Security screen doors that claim to meet Australian Standards

We did a quick search to find samples of security screen doors that mention the Australian Standards. 

The below offer mesh-type screens with small aperture, rather than diamond patterned screens (wide gaps that require flyscreen material to protect from insects). Mesh material and aperture width are not mentioned here, as it can depend on the product selected. 

Note: We have not tested these security doors; these are just a selection of products we found that claim to meet Australian standards as of July 2023. 

Adjusta-Fit

• Available at Bunnings.
• Claims to comply with AS 5041-2003 for knife shear, dynamic impact, and jemmy tests (triple lock point model).
• BAL-29 rating.
• No mention of AS 2331.3.1-2001.

Crimsafe

• Available direct or from companies such as Wynstan.
• Classic, Ultimate, iQ and HeavyDuty models available.
• Claims to comply with AS 5041-2003 (all models).
• Claims to have passed AS 2331.31 salt spray tests up to 10 years simulation.
• Claims that screens can be designed that pass AS 1170.2:2011.

Doors Plus Ultrasafe

• Claims to comply with AS 5041-2003 for impact, knives, and jemmies.

Havengard

• Claims all models certified to AS5039, AS1170.2-2011 and AS2331.3.1-2001.
• Mostly available in Western Australia.

IntrudaGuard

• Made by Amplimesh, supplied by Capral Limited, and can be bought from many dealers including Decorlace and Le Sands Screens and Blinds.
• Claims to comply with AS 5039-2008 and AS 5041-2003 standards.
• BAL-29 rating.
• Can be suitable in cyclone regions.

Invisi-Gard

• Can be ordered through dealers (use your post code to find one).
• Claims to comply with AS 5039-2008 dynamic impact, jemmy, and knife shear tests.
• Claims to have passed AS 2331.31 salt spray tests up to 2000 hours.
• Has a range that is rated to BAL-40.
• Has a range that can be suitable in cyclone regions,

ForceField

• Made by Prowler Proof.
• Can be ordered through dealers (use your post code to find one).
• Claims to comply with AS 5039-2008.
• Claims to have passed AS 2331.31 salt spray tests up to 2000 hours.
• Claims to be rated up to BAL-FZ.
• Can be suitable in cyclone regions.

PrivacyGuard

• Made by Amplimesh.
• Claims to comply with AS 5039-2008 and AS 5041-2003.
• BAL-29 rating.
• Not suitable in cyclone regions.

SupaScreen

• Made by Amplimesh and can be bought from places such as Apollo Blinds.
• Claims to comply with AS 5039-2008 and AS 5041-2003.
• BAL-40 rating.
• Can be suitable in cyclone regions.

SecureView EclipX

• Made by CommandX and located in NSW – must contact them to find a dealer.
• Claims to comply with AS 5039-2008.
• Can be suitable in cyclone regions.
• Claims to comply with AS 2331.3.1-2001 neutral salt spray test.
• Unclear what BAL rating is given.

How to clean your security screen door

When mesh is incorporated into a security door design, cleaning becomes something you’ll need to take into account every few weeks or months, depending on where you live. If you live next to a busy highway or near the ocean, probably more often. 

The mesh doesn’t allow large fragments of dust and soil through, which builds up and becomes unsightly after a while. If you live near the ocean, salt will build up in the mesh and oxidise the metal. 

They cost a chunk of change to install, so you’ll want to be careful not to damage it while cleaning.

There is a simple way to address this after checking in with your installer’s recommendations for cleaning.

Some security installers will sell their own cleaning products, but if you’re doing it regularly enough, you won’t need to buy a specialised cleaner.

• Hose the screen down with water from the inside out.
• Gently rub the screen with a clean cloth with warm water and light detergent.
• Hose down the screen again to get rid of the detergent.

It’s tempting to use a pressure cleaner, broom or vacuum brush, but some security door installers will advise against these as they may damage the screen. Always check your installer’s recommendations for cleaning first.

The post What to know before buying a security screen door appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• How do wireless security cameras work?
• How do they connect to a network?
• What to look for in a wireless security camera
• Wire-free or mains powered?
• How much do wireless security cameras cost?

How do wireless security cameras work?

A wireless security camera is like a webcam, except it can sit anywhere in your house and connect to your local wireless network as well as the internet. With this kind of camera, you can keep watch on your house from around the corner or from another country via a computer, smartphone or tablet, helping to give you the peace of mind that comes from knowing your home is under a watchful eye. 

Wireless home security cameras can be used for all sorts of reasons, but typical uses can be keeping an eye on children, looking in on a sleeping baby at home, seeing what your pet gets up to while you’re at work or even just checking who’s at the door. They can also send you alerts if they detect motion, such as someone in your home who isn’t supposed to be there.

Of course, any home security camera or other internet-connected device needs to be set up securely to prevent anybody else gaining unauthorised access. You may have heard stories of cameras or other devices being ‘hacked’, though in most cases this is due to not setting up proper security on the camera and network router. 

Motion sensing

Wireless security cameras work through your home internet connection, taking still pictures and/or video (usually 30 seconds or less) when they detect movement. They’ll notify you immediately via SMS or email when there’s footage to be viewed. Some of them can even upload pictures and video instantly to the cloud for safekeeping and immediate viewing.

Once largely disregarded because they were too technical for the average user to set up, wireless security cameras have come a long way. Most now come with software that allows you to access photos and videos through your smartphone, as well as a web-connected computer, no matter where you are in the world. Setting them up takes just a few minutes and just about anybody can do it.

How do they connect to a network?

One of the benefits of wireless security cameras is that they’re generally small and unobtrusive. Most connect to your home Wi-Fi network, so you can place them just about anywhere in the home without having ethernet cable running all over the place. 

Some even run on batteries to make them totally wireless – you’ll see them marketed as ‘wire-free’ cameras. You can move them from room to room on a whim, or even deploy them outside the house if they’re outdoor-capable models.

But most wireless units will need access to a power point. It’s generally easier to do this than to have a long run of unsightly blue ethernet cable, unless your home is properly wired for ethernet through skirting boards (relatively few homes are).

If you do have the opportunity to use ethernet cabling, many Wi-Fi cameras have an ethernet port, so you can plug in directly. While Wi-Fi is more convenient, wired ethernet is still faster and generally provides a more stable network connection. 

You may want to look for a camera that has power over ethernet (PoE) as a feature, as this will let you power the camera from the same ethernet cable used to carry data, avoiding the need for both ethernet and mains power cables to the camera (though you’ll need a PoE connection box). 

What to look for in a wireless security camera

Your camera should come with an ethernet cable (where applicable), power supply, antenna, wall mount (including screws) and set-up instructions. Here are some points to bear in mind when choosing your camera.

Hardware

• Resolution: Is it high-definition? This will affect picture quality and upload speeds.
• Night vision: Does it have an infrared LED for night vision? 
• Microphone: Useful in particular when the camera is used as a baby monitor.
• Speaker: So that you can talk through it (again, useful for baby monitor use).
• Movement: Can it pan, tilt and zoom via remote control?
• Storage: Is there built-in storage (memory card slot) for saving recordings locally?
• Power: Does it run on batteries and if so, will it take rechargeable batteries? Does it need to be plugged into mains power and if so, how long is the power cable? Can it use power over ethernet cabling (PoE)?
• Networking: Will it work via ethernet cable or is it restricted to Wi-Fi?
• Mounting: Can it be fixed to a wall or does it just sit on a flat surface?
• Expandability: Can the system be expanded (and to what extent) with additional cameras and sensors for windows, doors and motion detection?

Software

• Monitoring: How do you view the video – via web browser or mobile app?
• Remote control: Does it come with one?
• Motion detection: What capabilities and restrictions are there?
• Alerts: Via email or SMS? For sound as well as movement? 
• Image clarity: Daytime and low-light quality.
• Adjustable frame rates: This can be useful for varying the quality and file sizes of recording and streaming.
• Extra service costs: What’s required for using the camera for streaming? Are subscriptions needed for storing and accessing videos remotely?

Image quality

While most consumer-level wireless security cameras are very handy for casual monitoring, if you’re serious about security you’ll want to check out higher quality systems, which are generally wired into your home and need to be installed by a professional. 

If you’re using your wireless security camera for even casual home monitoring for security, good image quality is important. If it catches an intruder in the act, you’re going to want to be able to identify them. Unfortunately, there’s no simple way to tell from the box how good the quality will be, but it’s where our wireless security camera reviews can help.

Night vision

Many cameras also offer night vision, which is particularly useful for security monitoring because it can pick up images in very low-light conditions and even in complete darkness, which is often how the house is when you’re not there. However, the quality of images can vary greatly and the distance to the camera is important – the closer the better, generally. 

Many infrared night vision cameras don’t capture much detail. They give you a grey-tone image which often shows little or no facial detail, leaving the offender looking like a ghost. Good quality night vision can make the captured images and video actually usable.

Shine a light

The latest trend for outdoor cameras is to have a built-in spotlight or floodlight. This provides a much better night-time picture than infrared night vision and in colour. Having illumination triggered by movement can also act as a visible deterrent to intruders. After all, if you’re up to no good, you won’t want to be hanging around under a spotlight.

Remote access

Having the ability to view your camera’s footage remotely is an important feature, given that you won’t have access to your home computer if you’re away on holiday. Here are remote access features to look for:

• Email and SMS/MMS alerts: Can you set the camera to send email/SMS/MMS alerts when it’s triggered? Can it automatically attach a recorded image to the alert?
• Mobile access: You can’t beat the convenience of being able to look into your home remotely via your smartphone or tablet. Most cameras have software for iOS (iPhones) and/or Android OS, but make sure it’s compatible with your system.
• Web access: Is the wireless security camera video feed accessible online, through a computer that’s not part of your home network?

Where does the footage go?

Some wireless security cameras will store recorded footage on a flash memory card or an external storage drive connected to the camera. Some models offer better security by taking the images offsite immediately, saving them straight to the cloud (internet-based remote storage). Either way, you’ll want to make sure you have a way of keeping any important videos and photos. Here’s what to consider.

• Cloud storage: Some wireless security cameras may provide the cloud storage service for free, but with limited space and for a limited time. Others will provide more, but charge a subscription fee. Alternatively, you may be able to save your files to your own cloud service like Dropbox. Check if the camera software can be configured to connect to a remote storage file server, and whether your particular cloud service will allow it.
• Memory card: Does the device have memory card storage for recordings? This can be handy, as the images will be saved on the card in the camera for easy access, and avoids having to configure and possibly pay for cloud storage. But there’s the risk that the card or camera itself may be stolen.
• PC storage: Can you save and store pictures/video to your computer using the PC program or through the web? This gives you much more storage capacity, but requires that your computer be left turned on. And there’s the danger that the computer itself could be stolen.
• Smartphone/tablet storage: Can you save and store pictures/video to your phone or tablet using the camera’s mobile app? If you can view images and video through your mobile device, can you download them and save them to it?

Other features to look for

• Pan, tilt and zoom: There’s a big advantage in having remote control of the camera to zoom in and make it look around the room with up/down and sideways movement. Models with this ability will generally cost more.
• Motion sensing: You want a camera that can be set to detect motion and automatically take pictures and video and send alerts. Other considerations include whether you can set time slots for motion detection to be active, and if you can adjust the sensitivity.
• Audio link: Some cameras have one- or two-way audio communication via the camera.
• Battery life: As with any portable device, battery life is an important consideration. Battery-powered cameras aren’t designed for all-day, every-day operation. Instead, they only record footage when motion triggers them, or if you do so manually via the app. So it’s important to have a motion sensing schedule and the ability to change the sensitivity of the motion. Cameras without a scheduler should be placed in a low-traffic location where the motion detection won’t constantly be triggered.

Wire-free or mains powered?

Totally wire-free cameras are easy enough to set up and use that just about anybody can do it. They can be quickly redeployed elsewhere in the home on your local network just by picking them up and moving them, and access to viewing is available at the tap of a smartphone app. 

However, the trade-off for high mobility is battery life (unless you have a solar charger accessory, available on some models) and video quality, which can be lower to save on battery life.

So, should you go wire-free? You can in many typical households use a wireless network camera that plugs into mains power and not have to worry about replacing or charging batteries. Depending on your home layout, in many cases that could be a better way to go. 

In cases where you don’t have a nearby power point or don’t want a power cord hanging around or you just want maximum mobility, a wire-free camera offers the most flexibility. 

A cellular wire-free model operates over the 3G/4G (phone) network rather than Wi-Fi. This type of camera can even be your go-anywhere watchdog that you can leave in your hotel room to keep an eye on things while you’re travelling. Of course, as with a smartphone, you’ll need a mobile network data SIM card that works in that location.

For most people, however, a mains-powered wireless camera will provide the best solution. They give you the convenience of a wireless camera that you can deploy easily almost anywhere around the home, without having to worry about battery replacement.

Battery life of wire-free cameras

Battery-powered cameras are not designed for active recording continuously as it would very soon wear out the battery, so it’s important to have a motion sensing schedule and the ability to change the sensitivity of the motion. Cameras without a scheduler should be placed in a location where they won’t constantly be triggered.

If the camera picks up too much motion during its scheduled monitoring period, then the batteries will deplete more quickly. If the motion sensor is set to high sensitivity, this will also deplete the battery quicker, as it will detect motion from further away and potentially get triggered a lot more frequently.

The image quality of many cameras is not set to high quality by default. Apart from requiring higher bandwidth to stream footage, high quality images will consume more battery life.  Here are some things that can affect battery life: 

• A weak or heavily loaded Wi-Fi signal can lead to more consumption while the camera is in standby.
• More power will be consumed at night while the camera is in night mode.
• Sensitivity set too high will lead to more recordings, which will deplete the battery more quickly.

Recycling camera batteries

If you use cameras that require batteries, these batteries will eventually fail and should be recycled, not disposed of in the rubbish.

Check with your local council about battery recycling in your area.  and the  also list locations that will safely recover and recycle your batteries.

Wired-in solution

There are, of course, many fully wired-in security cameras available that need to be installed by an electrician in a fixed point. These offer a more permanent security monitoring solution, but should be installed by a professional.

How much do wireless security cameras cost?

Wireless security cameras range in price from around $30 for a cheap single camera to more than $1000 for a high-quality unit or multi-camera kit, and will usually include features like remote control, night vision, Wi-Fi, megapixel rating and lens quality. Our test results show that you don’t have to spend top dollar to get a quality security camera, but models under $100 generally won’t deliver the best performance.

The post What to know before buying a security camera appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

We test these cameras based on how you’d use them at home. Our test scenario takes into account each camera’s performance in normal and low-light conditions, as well as the all-important ease of installation and use.

In this article:

• Our expert testers
• Scoring
• Our rating system

Our expert testers

All the tests and procedures described in this article are carried out by our professional in-house computer testing experts, who take into account not just the technical performance of the wireless security camera but also how easy it is to set up and use.

Scoring

Our ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating takes into account camera performance (60%) and ease of use (40%).

±Ê±ð°ù´Ú´Ç°ù³¾²¹²Ô³¦±ðÌý(60% of the total score)

We test how the cameras perform in daylight and low-light conditions to assess how well they show clarity and contrast at close range (2m) and across the room (4m) and how well they show a person, objects and graphics/text. 

The clearer the quality, the better the score and images scored worse when the picture was highly blurred, patchy, or over-exposed.

Ease of use (40% of the total score)

We test the ease of use of both the set-up and the use of a camera. The ease of use score is made up of:

• An evaluated installation (30% of the ease of use score).
• A recording and motion assessment (70% of the ease of use score).

A camera scores highly for installation if the steps to connect the hardware are simple (for example, just using a mobile app over Wi-Fi), and if no user intervention is required to access the cameras remotely over the internet.

Cameras score highest on the recording and motion assessment if they send an email with a screenshot attached when they detect motion, but are also awarded points for plain alerts emails and push notifications on smartphones. We give points for manual image and video recording, cloud storage uploads, and auto-recording of images and video regardless of them being sent via email.

Our rating system

ÌÇÐÄVlog applies the following interpretation to the scores achieved in our tests. When we describe a result as “excellent”, “poor” etc, it usually relates directly to a numerical score in that range.

• 0–24: Very poor
• 25–45: Poor
• 46–54: Borderline
• 55–69: OK
• 70–79: Good
• 80–89: Very good
• 90–100: Excellent

The post How we test wireless security cameras appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• Do smart locks need an internet connection?
• Unlocking a smart lock
• Keeping the keyhole
• Smart lock security features
• Are smart locks secure?
• Design and types of smart locks
• Smart lock installation
• How do smart locks work?

They also add security and monitoring features that can help keep your home safe. But like any online device, there are some risks you have to consider before buying.

Do smart locks need an internet connection?

No, you can get smart locks with no connectivity requirements, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi or a combination of these options. However, networking adds extra features and functions that can help improve home security.

Bluetooth-enabled locks connect to an app that you can use to open the door, change settings, set up user accounts and check access logs. These tools are only available when you’re within range of the lock’s Bluetooth signal (for example, access logs are downloaded to your phone once you connect).

Wi-Fi connectivity opens up remote access so you can receive updates in real time and control the lock via remote access. This may require a Wi-Fi bridge between the lock and your home network which increases the overall cost.

We found a few models that only need Bluetooth to connect to their accompanying app during setup. After that, you can disable connectivity so the lock can only be opened via onboard controls, then reactivate it to change settings and add software updates.

Unlocking a smart lock

All smart locks on the market will open using one, or more, of these methods.

Pin code: The most common option is a PIN code, entered using a keypad or touchscreen. Some also use a PIN code in their app which connects to the lock via Bluetooth or Wi-Fi.

Biometrics: Most commonly a finger or thumbprint scanner built into the lock or accompanying app. Some smart locks also support facial recognition, mostly via a connected smartphone app, although a few models do include a built-in camera for facial recognition.

Geofencing: The lock automatically opens when your smartphone is within a certain radius of the door. This works with Bluetooth and Wi-Fi.

Key fob: A plastic dongle that you tap to open the door. This is useful to keep on hand as a back-up entry option.

Smartphone access: You can unlock the door with your phone if it has an associated app. Options include a simple unlock button, tilting the phone, tapping the lock like a key fob, a PIN code on the phone or issuing a voice command if the lock supports digital assistants like Google Home and Alexa.

Remote access: Wi-Fi-enabled locks can be unlocked remotely via an app. This is a handy back-up if someone needs to get in when you’re not around. Just make sure that you’re letting the right person in, and that they close and lock the door behind them.

Temporary access: This grants single or short-term access with a temporary code that expires after a certain number of uses or a pre-set time period.

Keeping the keyhole

Most smart locks have a standard keyhole which is essentially a failsafe. The lock mechanism will still work with a key if you lose your phone, forget the code or if the lock’s smart features fail altogether, for example. Keyless units can look sleeker, but they leave you without a back-up option should the smart mechanisms fail.

Now granted, part of a smart lock’s appeal is not having to carry keys around. But that’s where a safely concealed key at home will come in handy.

Smart lock security features

The main advantage that smart locks bring to the table (or door) is a handful of security features that you won’t find on standard locks. Most require an app to set up and use.

Access logs: These help you keep track of who has come and gone – and attempted to enter – throughout the day. This feature requires a smartphone or tablet app but may not need Wi-Fi. Most Wi-Fi models can deliver live updates at home or via remote access, while Bluetooth models let you download the log to your device when connected.

Anti-peep: For pin code locks, anti-peep lets you add a random selection of numbers before and after the actual code to confuse anyone that may be watching. As long as the correct code is entered somewhere in the middle, the lock will open.

Auto lock: Smart locks automatically lock after a certain amount of time, usually five to 30 seconds. Some models let you adjust this.

Away mode: This emits an alarm and sends alerts to your phone (remote access only) if someone attempts unauthorised entry when you’re not at home.

Lock mode: This disables access for all users that don’t have an admin account.

Lock down mode: This disables access after a few failed entry attempts for a set period of time. The lock down period can be adjusted.

Passage mode: This temporarily extends the auto lock period so the door remains open longer. Handy if you’re expecting a number of guests arriving within a window of time.

User accounts: An admin account is useful for managing features and functions for other people in the household, such as remote access, PIN code/biometric settings and more. For example, you could allow one user to enter via the lock’s app, while a child that’s too young for a smartphone may only have PIN code access. Admins can also view access logs for all users.

Are smart locks secure?

There are risks involved when using a connected device of any kind, including smart locks. While you’d assume hacking only applies to Wi-Fi-enabled models, Bluetooth can be compromised as well. But there are a few preventative measures you can take.

The usual internet security rules apply here. Use a unique, strong password, change it every few months and turn on two-factor authentication. Avoid common passwords like pop culture references, birthdays and pet names as these are easy to guess and don’t require any kind of hacking tools.

Enable automatic updates on the lock and app or regularly check and manually install them. These will patch vulnerabilities (among other things) that can be exploited. Also look for products that offer long support cycles – something like “We guarantee security updates for five years after launch”.

We strongly recommend using a smart lock in conjunction with a video-enabled device, such as a security camera or smart doorbell. That way, you can verify the identity of visitors via remote access and record footage if an unauthorised entry occurs.

Bluetooth risks

Bluetooth locks send data to and from a connected smartphone or tablet to authenticate user details and open the door. Without proper encryption, hackers can grab information used to open the lock as it’s travelling from your mobile device.

It’s up to the manufacturer to make sure that proper encryption tools are in place. But this information isn’t always readily available for consumers. That’s not to say your data is inherently at risk, but it’s worth contacting the company if you have any concerns.

Unlike Wi-Fi, however, criminals need to be within range of the Bluetooth signal to intercept the data. Bluetooth has a clear line of sight range of up to 240 metres (depending on the version installed on the smart lock).

Wi-Fi risks

A Wi-Fi-enabled smart lock has greater vulnerability in the sense that it can be compromised from anywhere in the world if remote access is enabled. However, users have much more control over Wi-Fi security than Bluetooth, as you can set up strong, unique passwords, enable two-factor authentication and more.

Encryption claims

Check the manufacturer’s website, product specifications or the instruction manual for encryption claims. Specific details, such as AES-256 bit, are much better than broad statements like “secure encryption” or no claims at all.

Managing old accounts

It’s important to keep on top of who has access to the smart lock, especially if it’s a former user who no longer has access to your property. This includes single access codes that are supposed to reset after the visitor leaves. It’s worth double-checking to make sure everything is completely erased.

If housemates, partners or family members have left, disable remote access (if applicable), delete their accounts then reset your password. Otherwise they may still be able to let themselves, or others, into your house. This is a particularly serious risk for victims/survivors of intimate partner and family violence.

Design and types of smart locks

The easiest way to mount a smart lock is to find one that can use the existing holes on your door. Pay attention to the setback of the hole from the edge of the door, and the diameter of the hole for the lock to fit into. The two main types of traditional lock mechanisms are:

• Deadbolt: A long, cylindrical bar that slides back and forth between the door and frame.
• Latch: A spring mechanism with a smaller, triangular-shaped bar that fits into the frame.

If you match the fitting correctly, the lock mechanism can be swapped out with little to no boring required. Meanwhile, the external parts of a smart lock, such as the handle or keypad, just bolt into the door.

Key turner

This type doesn’t have an internal lock mechanism. Instead, it piggybacks onto your existing deadbolt or latch lock which stays inside of the door, and is operated with an app. The turner encases and clamps onto they key, which stays inside the lock.

Requires minimal installation, but does need an existing compatible lock in order to work. These don’t include an emergency power USB input so you’ll need to keep a back-up key on hand at all times.

Mortice

An older lock design that houses the lock mechanism in a large rectangular block called a pocket. The mechanism can be a deadbolt, latch or both in some cases. Though you can replace a deadbolt or latch with a mortice lock, carving out the extra pocket space is a lot of work.

Barrel only

Small tube locks that fit into the cylindrical bore for a deadbolt. They have a small footprint with no handle, screen, keypad or interface of any kind. Instead, these smart locks can only open with an app. While the minimalist design has a certain appeal, these locks provide very few backup entry options.

Smart lock installation

Whether you can install a smart lock yourself largely depends on how handy you are, but it should be within the capabilities of most people with a basic tool kit and YouTube access. Key turners, in particular, are specifically made for easy mounting.

Deadbolts and mortice locks should be straightforward provided the required space has already been bored out, or you’re replacing an existing lock. If not, you may need to start drilling or chipping the door away, especially if you’re installing a mortice lock in place of a deadbolt. This can be a tricky job if you don’t know what you’re doing so it may be best to hire a locksmith.

How do smart locks work?

‘Smart lock’ is a bit of a catch-all term for locks that don’t require a key for entry. We test models that have Bluetooth, Wi-Fi or both as an unlock option as these wireless connection methods tend to fit with what consumers think of when they hear ‘smart’ device.

Most have an app for unlocking the door or adjusting settings, as well as other access options such as a keypad or fingerprint scanner (biometrics). They also usually support user accounts for family or housemates, one-time access codes for guests, tradies and delivery people, access logs and remote access (Wi-Fi only).

All of the smart locks in our test are battery powered. They include a charge indicator, usually in the app, which you need to keep an eye on, as everything but the keyhole will stop working when the batteries die. You can power a few models with a power bank or smartphone via a USB input, but this is designed as a temporary measure.

All but a couple locks in our test require a smartphone during the setup process. Most don’t actually force you to use one to unlock the door once everything is installed, but you’ll miss out on a bunch of extra features included in the apps.

The post What to know before buying a smart lock for your home appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• How we choose what we test
• Scoring
• How we test smart locks
• General data

How we choose what we test

Our priority is to test what you’ll find in stores and online retailers. This includes a combination of big brands with strong name recognition, and smaller manufacturers from specialty outlets. We also look for smart locks made by brands that sell other home security devices, such as security cameras and smart doorbells.

Scoring

The ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating for smart locks is an overall score that’s based on the following criteria:

• ease of use (50%)
• unlocking (30%)
• unlock range (Bluetooth) (10%)
• app privacy and security (10%).

Range testing isn’t conducted for units without Bluetooth. For these, the ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating is based on:

• ease of use (50%)
• unlocking (40%)
• app privacy and security (10%).

How we test smart locks

All locks are mounted on temporary blocks, following the vendor guidelines for hole dimensions and setback. Once we’re satisfied that the mechanics of the lock are working smoothly, we install the batteries and then set up each lock using its preferred method: either using app, or its onboard menu system (accessed via a keypad).

Ease of use

We look at the physical installation instructions, steps involved and whether they were clear and easy to understand. After that, we assess the setup process for creating an admin account, additional user accounts and general navigation around the lock and app.

Then we test how easy it is to unlock and lock the mechanism using the primary method (app, biometrics, pin code etc). Finally, we look at how easy it is to access the backup system to gain entry when the lock loses power.

Unlocking

This is a straightforward test that looks at the speed of the primary method of entry, followed by the speed of a secondary method of entry. We also consider any issues using the app if one is available, such as poor performance or complicated navigation.

Unlock range

We attempt to open the lock at three distance intervals – 20, 30 and 40 metres.

App privacy and security

To assess this, we consider five things.

• Can the lock be set up without an app?
• Is an online account needed for the app?
• What personal details are requested for the online account?
• What are the online account password rules?
• What app security is available when launching the app?

Note: We don’t attempt to break into or hack the locks in any way.

General data

We gather important specifications for each smart lock so you can easily compare functions and features without having to visit every manufacturer’s website. These include:

• mount type (key turner, deadbolt, mortice and barrel only)
• standard keyhole access.
• access options (keypad, biometrics, smartphone app, remote access etc.)
• security and monitoring features
• networking requirements (Bluetooth or Wi-Fi).

We also note which models can be used offline, including those that require Bluetooth or Wi-Fi during setup.

Tester comments

Our expert tester summarises their experience of using each lock. This is to highlight any notable features, benefits or shortcomings they encountered, which don’t quite fit into our comparison table. It provides some real world context as to what each lock is like day to day to help you make an informed purchase.

The post How we test smart locks appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• Our expert testers
• How we choose what we test
• Scoring
• How we test

Our review of smart doorbells help you navigate these factors and much more so you can make the right choice. Here’s how we test them.

Our expert testers

Our testers have years of expertise in testing internet and smart devices. Their focus is looking at and assessing the device to ensure that it not only performs as claimed, but is also easy to use and set up.

In this test, we find out which smart doorbells have the best audio and video quality, and the best security and privacy features. We also consider ease of use during installation and when using the associated app.

How we choose what we test

We looked at the most readily available smart doorbells in Australia, both online and in local retailers.

Scoring

We give every smart doorbell that we test a ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating, so you can see at a glance which are the best and worst performers.

This ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating is an overall score that’s based on the following criteria:

• Video (30%)
• Sound (20%)
• Application (20%)
• Installation (10%)
• Recharging (10%)
• Privacy and security (10%)

How we test

Video score score

We assess the video quality in daylight, and indoors at night with a porch light on and with a porch light off. The indoor test simulates an outdoor environment. This covers all typical lighting conditions.

Sound score

We test the quality of sound from the doorbell speaker and in the app (from the doorbell microphone).

App score

This covers the intuitiveness and ease of use of the app to see if the steps and features are well explained. We also look for troubleshooting assistance and whether it offers clear steps to resolve any issues.

Installation score

We assess how easy it is to install the app and create an account, and how easy it is to mount the doorbell. This involves wall-mounting the doorbell, registering it with the app and setting up automatic software updates (if available).

Recharging score

An ease of use test that looks at accessing and charging the device. If the device is permanently powered, it scores 100%.

Privacy & security score

We look for a privacy policy and transparent information about data storage. This includes whether the videos go to offshore servers for processing or storage and if they specify the server location. We also see how easy it is to run software updates and change your password.

The post How we test smart doorbells appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• Reasons to own a safe: theft, fire and flood, and firearms
• What are cash, fire and TDR ratings?
• Installing a safe
• Features to look for
• Alternatives to a safe
• Industry tips from the experts
• How much do safes cost?

It all depends on what features you want and how secure you need the safe to be. ÌÇÐÄVlog doesn’t currently review safes, but in this guide we explain the features to look for, what fire and cash ratings mean, and what you can expect at different price points.

Reasons to own a safe: theft, fire and flood, and firearms

For most people, the main reasons to own a safe are to protect valuables, documents and data from being stolen, or from being destroyed in a house fire or flood. Many safes, especially at the more expensive end, can meet all these needs. For particularly valuable items such as high-end jewellery, storing them in a good quality safe may be a necessity if you want to insure them for their full value.

Another reason to own a safe is to secure firearms, according to the law in your state. There are various requirements for the type of gun safe required, depending on the types of firearms being stored. Gun safes can be used to protect other valuables as well.

What are cash, fire and TDR ratings?

Cash rating

A cash rating is usually shown as a dollar value such as “$10,000”. It’s a guide to the amount that an insurance company is likely to cover if the safe is broken into and the contents stolen. The cash rating is an indication of the quality of the safe: the higher the rating, the better the safe. 

Very cheap safes usually have no cash rating at all, so an insurer won’t usually consider these sufficient to protect important valuables.

The cash rating may be a claim by the safe manufacturer based on their own tests, rather than an independently verified rating, and different brands may test their safes to different criteria and with various levels of rigour. So you should treat cash ratings as a guide rather than an absolute guarantee, unless you can see independent verification of the rating by a credible third party such as Underwriters Laboratories (UL).

Ratings are usually from $2000 all the way up to $500,000, but the final rating of a safe by an insurance company also depends on other factors. A professionally installed safe in a home with a monitored alarm (“back to base”) can have a much higher cash rating than the same safe in a less secure home. 

If a high level of security is important for you, talk to your insurer before you buy a safe to see what cover they’ll provide and any specific requirements they have regarding the safe and its installation.

Fire rating

A fire rating indicates how long you can expect the safe to protect its contents when subjected to heat and flame. Fire-rated safes have a lining of material or insulation that helps keep the contents cool and stops them drying out. 

As with cash ratings, the fire rating should be treated as a guide, since different manufacturers might test this in different ways, and might not have the rating independently verified.

The minimum rating is 30 minutes, but for best results, aim for a fire rating of one hour. House fires can vary significantly in heat and duration, but a good quality one hour-rated safe is likely to be more than enough.

Sometimes the stronger a safe is for resisting break-in, the worse it can be for fire resistance. This is due to the thick steel construction creating more mass to absorb heat in a fire, which in turn means more heat and damage to the contents. This is why some safes have a good cash rating but no fire rating. To have a fire rating, a safe must be specifically built to resist fire.

Torch and drill resistant (TDR)

For top-level theft protection, you may need to consider a TDR safe: torch and drill resistant. These safes are especially strongly built to resist oxy-acetylene torches, power drills or grinders, and even explosives. The door only might be TDR, or the whole safe, depending on the model. Insurance policies for highly valuable items might specify that a TDR safe is required.

Most such safes have many other protective features as well, and as you’d expect, they’re more expensive. Expect to pay at least $2000, and usually a lot more.

Installing a safe

When you’re choosing a safe, you need to think ahead about where it will be located in your home. Is there a good spot where the safe will be accessible without being obvious, ideally with concrete or brick to fasten it onto?

Features to look for

The lock – key, combination, or both?

• A key lock is simple and easy to use, but of course can be a problem if the key is lost or falls into the hands of the wrong person. Key locks can also be picked by a skilled thief.
• Digital combination locks, with a keypad and display, offer more flexibility and are generally the easiest option for home safes. You can set the combination you want and change it from time to time as needed, and you don’t need to add another key to your key ring. They can also include other features such as a time out after too many failed attempts to enter the code. On the downside, codes can be forgotten, and electronic locks can fail if the battery dies or the electronics are poorly made.
• Dial combination locks are the old-school mechanical version of the above, and are usually very reliable. But you can’t program the code yourself, and as above, codes can be forgotten.

With some models of safes you have a choice of which type of lock you want, while others have both a key and a combination for extra security.

None of the above lock types are necessarily better than the others – the lock is just one component of the safe, and there’s no point having a great lock if the safe’s walls are flimsy or the locking bolts are weak.

Weight and construction

Good quality safes will have steel walls and doors several millimetres thick, and even a small one can weigh 15–20kg. Larger safes will weigh much more, for example 40–80kg is common for good mid-range safes, while a larger or high-security safe may weigh 200kg or more.

The regulations for gun safes often specify minimum wall thicknesses.

Cheap safes are commonly only a few kilograms in weight, due to their thinner walls and generally weaker construction.

Keep it secret, keep it safe

A good safe will provide great protection for your valuables, but it can still be defeated by a professional burglar. If they can’t break into it on site, they might actually rip it out of the wall or floor and carry it away to break it open elsewhere. And the bigger and more robust the safe, the harder it will be to conceal. 

Major burglaries usually occur when a thief has scoped out the neighbourhood and targeted your property, and especially when they know that no one will be home. So:

• try to not publicise the fact that you have a safe – the more people that know it exists, the more chance it will become a target
• if you’re going to be away from home for an extended period, don’t announce it to the world, either in person or online
• if you’re going away for a while, consider putting your most valuable items temporarily into a safe storage facility at a bank or storage company. 

Alternatives to a safe

If installing a safe is too difficult in your home, then you can consider depositing your valuables with a bank or storage company.

Industry tips from the experts

We spoke to two people in the home safe retail industry for their advice: Mark Irvine from City Safes in Sydney, and Katie Eggleton from Bunnings.

How much do safes cost?

Very basic safes, which in many cases are really just lockable storage containers, cost between $40 and $200.

Good quality home safes recommended by professionals start at about $200: Mark Irvine from City Safes suggested the Chubb Air laptop safe as an example of an economical and compact home safe. The price goes to $700–800 for a safe with good cash and fire ratings and capable of storing a moderate amount of valuables. 

High-end safes start at about $1500 and go to over $2000 for TDR safes.

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The Google Nest Cam and Doorbell are intended to detect and issue alerts for movement nearby, such as people, animals and vehicles, and the Google Nest Doorbell can also detect when packages have been left for you. Google says this recognition processing is done on the device, which should be faster and more secure than sending information off to a Google server for processing.

Both devices are battery powered, which makes it easier to deploy them wherever you like or move them around, but you can also wire them in if you choose. However, there isn’t an option for a portable solar panel, which you can get with some other security cameras. 

Google Nest Doorbell: what you need to know

The kit for the Google Nest Doorbell includes all you need for installation, including a metal mount, angled base and and all anchors and screws required. You need to use the latest version of the Google Home app on a smartphone to install it.

Doorbell installation

The Google Home app runs you through the hardware installation, including how to drill holes and mount the base, and how high the doorbell needs to be so that it can detect packages. This is set at just 1.2m off the ground, whereas a typical doorbell might sit higher up.

To set up the doorbell, in the Google Home app select the product, scan the QR code on the doorbell itself, opt in or out of sending back crash and stats data, and then plug it into a power source via its USB-C connection. The app then connects to the device automatically, and you specify which network to join (2.4GHz only). 

Enter the password, tell it the doorbell’s location (e.g. front door), it will auto-update then take you through the hardware installation (including tools needed, optimal location, and checking the Wi-Fi signal). The way the doorbell mounts to the base is a little bit tricky and seems like it would be flimsy, but it’s not.

How the Google Nest Doorbell works

Once installed, the doorbell button’s LED surround lights up when someone approaches. If pressed, it sends an alert to your phone and, if enabled in the settings, the Google Assistant will tell you someone is at the door on all linked devices (e.g. Google Home speaker and a linked TV). 

However, you need to use the phone app to talk to the person at the door and view doorbell footage. You can’t talk to the doorbell via a Google Home smart speaker, and the doorbell’s video isn’t shown on a linked TV (though it may be able to stream to a device with a built-in screen, such as a Nest Hub Max, but we didn’t test this). 

There can also be a few seconds’ delay from doorbell button-press to notification on your phone, especially if your internet connection is in heavy use, as the data is relayed to and from Google servers. Friends might stick around long enough for you to answer, but you can expect most postal workers and couriers to be gone before you can get to the door. 

There are some pre-set recordings you can use to answer with, such as “we’ll be right with you”, “we can’t answer the door”, and “you can just leave it”. We found the way this works to be a bit quirky. If you don’t look at the alert on your phone and the person presses the bell again, Google Home doesn’t announce it a second time.

But even if somebody doesn’t press the doorbell, you’ll get an alert. If motion is detected, the device will tell you. By default, it will give alerts for people and packages (this worked in our tests when we carried a box to the door). It can also be set to give alerts for other types of motion (like cars and animals, but these were not tested). 

If you enable “familiar face detection”, then the doorbell will use any familiar faces you have tagged in your account to compare them against its footage. You can add names to faces to personalise the experience. For example, when your friend Elias presses the doorbell, Google Assistant will announce (and the alert will say) “Elias is at the door”. Otherwise, the Assistant will just say “someone” (or “some people”) is at the door.

Viewing the recording timeline in the Google Home app is easy, and you can download any recorded videos that you wish to keep. 

Doorbell camera image quality

In our test setup in a suburban home we found image quality to be a mixed bag. When installed in a doorway, backlighting was a problem with a porch light in the background. Night-time footage was better as the night vision (infrared LEDs) kicked in and we could clearly see the face of the person at the door. Night vision turned off when the doorbell was placed closer to the light source and the person was better illuminated. 

The aspect ratio of the footage is taller than it is wide, which makes it a better fit for a phone screen. The field of view is adequate, as we could see either side of the doorway easily, and depending on the position, we could see the width of the front yard.

Battery life will vary depending on the amount of use the doorbell gets, and the supplied tool (or a small flat-head screwdriver) is needed to remove the doorbell from its mount to charge it. 

Recording costs

You can use the doorbell without paying for a Nest Aware subscription, but the catch is that you only get three hours to view recorded footage before it disappears. A Nest Aware subscription costs either $9 per month or $90 per year and will retain footage for 30 days.

Google Nest Cam: what you need to know

As with the doorbell, the indoor/outdoor Google Nest Cam comes with built-in battery, infrared lights for night-time viewing, and installation hardware – wall anchors, screws, and a rounded base which lets the magnetically-attached camera be positioned for best viewpoint. 

It has a wide field of view without much distortion. There are only two image settings: high and max. It’s set on max by default and we found the image quality clear and well defined in our testing. We rate its image quality as very good for both day and night viewing. 

The cam captured motion and sent notifications to our smartphone. It records motion events to the Cloud only, but also has some local storage that allows it to keep recordings if the internet drops out (Google says it’s an hour’s worth). We tested this and found it did indeed record events while the Wi-Fi network wasn’t available. 

As with the doorbell, you get only three hours of recordings unless you have a Google Nest Aware subscription.

Zone and face alerts

You can set up zones to monitor just a particular area, such as a section of your yard, and you can customise what types of events will alert you if they occur in the set zone. For example, you can create a zone and tell it to only alert you if it detects people.

As with the doorbell, you can set the identity of any friendly faces that are seen in recorded footage. We found this also worked at night, but not all the time. In only one out of three tests did the alert say who the person was, but this is only to be expected, as night vision is always a less accurate proposition than daylight viewing.

Unlike the doorbell, however, we couldn’t get the Nest Cam to stream to our Chromecast-enabled TV via the Google Assistant. Telling Google to show the “Garage” on the “Living room TV” produced a response saying the camera doesn’t support the sending of video to “remote screens”. It seems as though you can only view video on a screen if you have a Google Assistant with a built-in screen, such as Google’s Nest Hub Max.

Camera image quality

All up, the camera provides very good image quality compared to others we’ve seen. You can’t do any manual recordings or screenshots within the app, so you have to rely on the footage that’s recorded after motion has been detected. 

The build is good and the installation is very straightforward – just follow the detailed steps in the app. But be sure to have the latest version of the Google Home app installed before you start. If you have automatic updates specified on your phone this shouldn’t be an issue.

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