How we choose which coolers we review

With so many coolers to choose from, we can’t review them all. Instead we aim to test the most popular brands and types on the market, and the coolers you’re most likely to see in camping and outdoor stores, as well as other major retailers. 

To do this, we survey manufacturers to find out about their range of products, we check market sales information, and we also check for any member requests to test specific models.

How we review coolers

Although ÌÇÐÄVlog maintains a and the vast majority of our product testing is done in-house, for coolers it’s a bit different. Our refrigeration experts can tell how most coolers will perform just by examining their construction and materials.

Scoring criteria explained

The ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating, our overall score that determines which products we recommend, is based entirely on performance – i.e. how long the cooler will keep its contents cold. , and are scored as follows:

• 80%: These are the coolers to go for if you need their contents to stay chilled on one load of ice for a long time – in the case of a large cooler, this can be several days.
• 70%: These are good performers and can keep their contents chilled for a few days – enough for a weekend camp, for instance.
• 60%: These are OK performers better suited to short-term use. Don’t rely on them for more than a day or two of chilling.

The scores are only comparable within each size category (medium, large and extra large), as a larger cooler naturally holds a greater mass of ice and chilled food and therefore takes longer to warm up.

Our test lab

ÌÇÐÄVlog has high-quality NATA-accredited laboratories, and lab staff with many years of experience across a range of laboratory disciplines and product areas. Our lab equipment is calibrated to ensure accurate and precise measurements.

The post How we review coolers appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• Pros and cons of portable power stations
• Choosing the right size
• How to charge a portable power station
• How much do they cost?
• How long do they typically last?
• What to look for in a portable power station
• Safety concerns
• How to maintain a portable power station

What is a portable power station?

Think of portable power stations as very large power banks, or a less noisy and more compact generator. In the same way you’d use a power bank to charge your smartphone, a power station can charge or power a variety of tools or appliances, sometimes simultaneously. They can also be called a portable power supply, portable battery pack or portable solar generator.

Portable power stations store electrical energy and most of them have a variety of outputs, ranging from USB to your standard 3 pin plug. They’re most useful for remote situations like camping, or during an emergency when you need power in a blackout.

Pros and cons of portable power stations

Pros

• Quiet
• Easy to operate and start
• No emissions
• No carbon monoxide
• Some can be recharged by solar power
• Portable (to a limit).

Cons

• Only suitable for cases where you won’t need power for too long
• Can be heavy in comparison to other comparable generator types
• New to the market, so very expensive for large ones
• May not be able to run as many appliances as a typical generator
• Take several hours to recharge via solar.

When to use a portable power station

• Outdoor activities: hiking, camping or anywhere where access to power is limited. 
• Emergency situations: blackouts and brownouts can be common in certain areas where power supply is unstable, whether that’s through natural disasters or unstable networks. 
• Recreational events: picnics and events such as conventions held outdoors where power supply is limited. 
• Remote work: where there is limited access to electricity in remote areas, portable power stations can be a useful access point.
• Travelling over land: however you’re travelling, easy access to recharge your items can be useful. 
• Construction sites: whether you’re a tradie on a single house build or in a major construction site, a lot of tools need power to run. You’ll often find a portable power station in a tradie’s toolset.

Choosing the right size

Anything that runs on electricity can be powered by a portable power station, but you need to make sure that the model you choose can supply enough power. If you’re looking to power a product with a high energy use, like an electric heater, you’ll need to have an appropriately sized station to match.

To find a power station size to suit your needs, take the watts of each device you plan to plug in, determine an approximate usage time, and multiply. This will give you the total Watt hours required, which you can match to the available Watt hours in the power station’s specifications.

It’s also worth noting that many appliances have a peak power to start with, and then a continuous power to keep them going. For example, a blender might use a peak power to crush ice, but continuing that usage would drop down the Watt usage. Where possible, note your peak load demands to find a battery that can supply it.

How to charge a portable power station

All of the power stations we looked at can be charged primarily by plugging into a standard 3 pin plug or AC wall socket, but there are other options depending on your needs. Some have a “cigarette lighter” input so you can charge from your car, while others have inputs for solar panels. You can also buy convertors for lighter ports if one isn’t included in the box.

The time it takes to recharge fully will depend on the size of the battery and the output of the supplied charger. In our testing, an AC wall charge took from one hour to more than five hours for a full charge.

Charging with solar

Only some power stations accept solar input. Solar can also take a long time to recharge, but if it’s just sitting out in the sun it doesn’t need much management, apart from the run of the mill interference from wind, kids, and pets.

We tested portable power stations from Bluetti and Ecoflow that have solar panels as optional extras and found that they took over five hours to recharge to 44% and 79% respectively in sunshine with no clouds. But again, it’ll depend on the size of the battery (the Bluetti was much larger) and how many solar panels you use.

How much do they cost?

Portable power stations range in price from a couple hundred dollars up to several thousand dollars. Usually more expensive power stations will mean a bigger (and heavier) battery, as well as a wider range of output and input options.

How long do they typically last?

Depending on the type of battery technology, a portable power station’s lifespan is based on the number of recharges it will deliver. Older types of battery technology will deliver 500 discharge and recharge cycles, but newer lithium-ion batteries claim to deliver 2000–3000 discharge and recharge cycles. 

Claims on the five portable power stations we bought for testing ranged from 500–3500 cycles. Like any type of lithium-on battery, you’ll have to maintain it by making sure it’s regularly charged and used on a schedule (just as you would with any other type of generator). 

Physical longevity will depend on how well you take care of it. Reducing knocks and bangs (admittedly difficult to do if you’re taking it off road) throughout its life and making sure it’s well maintained will help it last till its final discharge.

It’s worth making sure you look at the warranty as well before you buy, as this is generally a good indicator of the manufacturer’s confidence in their product. The power stations we looked have warranty periods of one to five years. If and when they fail, check your rights under the Australian Consumer Law to make sure you get a decent length of life before any fault becomes evident.

Recycling a portable power station

While Australia does have a , the current limit is around 5kg, which many of these power stations will exceed. We suggesting going back to the original retailer and asking where you can drop it off.

What to look for in a portable power station

Size/weight

The bigger the battery, the more charge it can hold and the longer it’ll last in terms of powering your equipment. But with more power comes more weight.

Equivalent energy output generators are lighter than power stations, so keep this in mind if you’re planning on taking it anywhere. More weight means less flexibility for taking it remotely, or more fuel you’ll be using in your vehicle to transport it.

Battery type

Some claims have minimal recharge and discharge times of up to 500 cycles, but other types of battery technology claim to recharge and discharge over 2000 cycles.

We haven’t tested claims relating to battery type (in terms of how many discharge and recharges they can deliver), and this is generally because of how long testing takes on the recharge side of things. By the time we’d be ready to release our results, the product would no longer be available.

Power outputs

Different models offer different outputs for your various devices, ranging from your standard AC wall plug to wireless charging for smartphones and everything in between. Decide which types of devices you’ll be recharging with the power station so that you can make a decision upfront and not be left in the dark if you don’t have the appropriate output.

These are the outputs we found when looking at portable power supplies:

• 3 pin GPO
• 12V car socket
• wireless charging
• USB-A
• USB-C.

Using solar panels to generate energy for a power station

Are you planning on going remote for a decent amount of time and using your power station? Will you have limited or no access to a reliable mains power supply to recharge? If the answer is yes, then it’s worth investing in solar panels.

You’ll need to spend some time learning how long they take to recharge the power station. We found a full day with a single 200W panel can get you to around a half charge depending on the size of the battery.

Some solar panels can be bought directly from the retailer, which is much more sensible than jury rigging something unless you understand electronics. Make sure they come with the appropriate cabling from the solar panels to the power station.

Portable power stations vs portable generators

The average generator requires fuel, which isn’t always accessible in remote areas. You’ll also need to make sure you maintain them and not leave fuel standing in the tanks for long periods of time. Portable power stations are very quiet compared to fuel-powered generators, so they’re useful if neighbours are close.

Because they aren’t fuel powered, power stations don’t emit any emissions or carbon monoxide so you can use them indoors. All of the portable power stations we’ve looked at only require a button to start, but many generators powered by other fuels also have a button to start these days as well, with cord pulls becoming rarer to see in the market.

Safety concerns

As long as you’re following the manual that covers any device carrying a lithium-ion battery, then you shouldn’t have to worry about safety concerns. If you need any replacement cabling, buy it from the original supplier to minimise any issues.

Two safety features you can look for are overload protection (the device overheating if you plug too many devices in) and overcharge protection (prevents overcharging your battery when it’s recharging). However, we found these features were lacking in any portable power station we tested, and if they did exist, they weren’t declared in any documentation that came with the products.

As always, you should follow the ACCC recommendations when it comes to any product with a lithium-ion battery, and its important to note that they are not water proof – all have fans, which is a point of entry for water.

How to maintain a portable power station

Firstly, follow the manufacturer’s instructions. They’re likely to be similar to the below, but always give them a thorough read when you first buy a portable power station.

You’ll need to schedule maintenance at least every three months. Run a recharge interval on your battery to make sure it doesn’t lose too much charge and is ready to go if you need it in an emergency. You can damage the battery by leaving it unused for too long (over 12 months).

Make sure that it’s stored in a cool dry place, as batteries can sometimes be affected by cold and heat extremes. Keep it reasonably clean, wiping it down with a soft cloth and removing debris from inputs and outputs. Repeat the process with cables you use with the power station as well. 

Always use the original cables and when they become damaged through use or misadventure, get replacements from the original equipment manufacturer. Using third-party equipment means relying on unknown variables.

The post What to know before buying a portable power station appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• Which size cooler do I need?
• How much do coolers cost?
• Features to look for
• Helpful hints for using your cooler
• How long will my cooler last?

A good cooler is essential for keeping your food and drinks nicely chilled, so here’s what you need to look for:

Which size cooler do I need?

You might be tempted to go large, but make sure your new cooler will actually fit in your car. Narrow and smaller coolers are also easier to lift without assistance. The flipside is, larger coolers can fit more ice, so they tend to keep their cool a little longer than smaller ones.

Taller coolers allow you to store bottles upright, while models with recessed lids allow you to load items higher (but they could become warm in this space).

How much do coolers cost?

The models in our most recent cooler review range in price from $55 to $1800, with more expensive models tending to feature better insulation.

Think about what you’re going to be using your cooler for – if you’re depending on it to keep food and drinks cold for several days, or in extreme temperatures, then spending more is an investment in food safety. If you only need to keep a few drinks cold for an afternoon BBQ then ‘cheap and cheerful’ may be more than adequate.

Features to look for

Insulation

Thicker walls generally provide better insulation. Look for walls and lids that don’t compress easily when pressure is applied, as they’re more likely to be filled with air. As an added bonus, sturdier coolers can also be used as a seat.

Seals

Look for good seals around the lid and other openings (such as the drain plug). The better the seal, the more likely you are to keep your food and drinks cold.

Cleaning

Textured lids look great but can be difficult to keep clean. Look for smooth surfaces, and flush-mounted drains that won’t trap dirt and food particles.

Dry ice compatibility

Dry ice is really cold so it’s great for keeping food chilled, but it can potentially damage your cooler. Check the manufacturer’s instructions about dry ice use. A dry ice block should be heavily wrapped so it doesn’t come into contact with the liner of your cooler and damage it.

Wheels

Wheels will make manoeuvring your fully laden cooler much easier.

Handles

Handles should be robust and easy to grip. Shoulder straps are useful for small coolers while pull handles are better for larger wheeled types – try first to make sure they suit your height. 

Check that the handle design and placement facilitates easy carrying, as some of them can get very uncomfortable when the cooler is full.

Drainage

A drain plug lets you drain melted ice from your cooler without upending it, an essential feature for larger coolers which may be too heavy to tip. 

Bungs, plugs or stoppers that seal the drain hole should fit well and have some sort of retention device so they don’t get lost. A hose fitting makes draining your cooler less messy.

Flush-mounted drains don’t trap dirt or objects.

Latches and lids

Latches and lids should be easy to open and close; one-handed types are easier for general use. Hinged lids can be quite heavy and cause the cooler to topple over when it’s empty. 

Some coolers in our test also feature a padlockable latch, which can give you peace of mind if your cooler is used on a boat, campground or otherwise unattended. 

One of the coolers in our test also has tie-down points to keep it from bouncing around in a moving vehicle, or potentially becoming a projectile in the event of a crash.

Helpful hints for using your cooler

Your food must be kept below 4°°ä (or above 60°°ä) to remain in the safe food temperature zone. Any food that strays outside this zone for longer than four hours should be binned.

Here are some tips for keeping your food safe in a cooler:

• chill or freeze food and non-fizzy drinks overnight before packing
• avoid cross-contamination of cooked and raw food by packing in leak-proof containers or zip-lock bags
• fill as much empty space as possible with ice – the fewer air gaps, the better
• if using freezer packs, place a layer on the bottom of the cooler and a layer on the top. If space allows, squeeze some in the sides too
• liquid freeze packs will stay frozen longer than gel types
• packing the cooler should be your last job before taking off
• keep the cooler in the shade and in the coolest place you can find
• make sure the lid is fully closed each time you open it
• keep opening the cooler to a minimum.

How long will my cooler last?

A brief look at the warranty filter on our review shows that some manufacturers have high confidence in their products, offering lifetime warranties; some don’t, offering only a year. Hard cooler external parts are usually made of a very hard polyurethane or similar combination of plastics, or metal and plastic, so should last a long time – a good way of telling is if they make sure they have universal parts.

For instance, you might be likely to lose the gasket (or seal) before you see any wear on the outer plastic, assuming you treat it well. The gasket is made of softer plastic so is likely to wear away faster than the hard plastic parts over time – regardless if you use it or not. If the manufacturer uses universal parts, meaning they use the same gasket across multiple years and models, its more likely you’ll be able to replace it in time – along with the bung for the drain.

It’s possible for manufacturers that have high confidence in their products to make sure they keep the same measurements for these replaceable parts so that even when the material they make a gasket from improves, the gasket will still be for the same size, so the new gasket can be used in place of the old one. Manufacturers that keep the same measurements for their models over time have an advantage here.

Parts of a cooler likely to deteriorate first;

• hinges
• gaskets
• drain and bung
• handles

The post How to buy the best cooler appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• Other portable camping fridge accessories
• Custom-built portable camping fridges
• How to reduce your camping fridge power consumption

Caravanning around Australia calls for a larger capacity and more features than shorter camping adventures where compactness and manoeuvrability may be more important. How many people will your portable fridge need to service? Will it stay in a vehicle, be used 24/7 as an overflow fridge at home, or only be switched on a couple of times a year?

What size portable fridge do you need?

Large fridges mean greater capacity, but higher current draw, and they’ll take up more space in your car. When choosing a fridge, measure the space inside your vehicle to make sure it will fit, including the additional height of any mounting hardware or slides. Also consider clearance for any vents and make sure you’ll have enough room to open the lid.

Large fridges can also be heavy – with a whole family plus gear already onboard, a fully loaded fridge could push your car over its gross vehicle mass (GVM).

Sizes are listed in litres, but this can be hard to visualise so we’ve included a universally recognised unit of measure – cans of drink.

25L & under (27 cans)

Essentially a powered cooler, these compact fridges are suitable for keeping lunch cold in a work truck for you and your offsider. They’re also a good option if you need to keep medicines refrigerated and close to hand.

35L (47 cans)

Ideal for a weekend away for two, or a whole week if you’re flying solo.

40L (60 cans)

The most common or ‘standard’ size, 40L fridges are great for two or three people for a long weekend.

50L (72 cans)

Suitable for a whole week adventure for two, or a long weekend for a family.

60–65L (106 cans)

A good size fridge for a family of five, or providing sustenance for your sporting team. There’s plenty of room to keep the team’s half-time oranges on ice, but consider the space it takes up in your vehicle, and the weight.

80L+ (120 cans)

Plenty of space for a week away with a big group, but size and weight may be a serious consideration. You could be better off sharing the load between smaller fridges and separate vehicles.

Expansion inserts are also available for some fridges, clipping onto the top for additional capacity when you need it.

What types of camping fridges are there?

Two-way fridges run on 12-volt or mains electricity, while three-way fridges can run on either electricity or gas. So which is better?

Two-way (compressor) portable fridges

Two-way fridges use the same compressor technology as your home fridge, though they’re designed to run on your car or truck’s 12- or 24-volt battery as well as mains electricity. They’re best for most applications because they’re designed to run off your car’s electrical system without drawing too much current, but can be switched to 240 volts in powered campground sites or in your home.

Unlike gas fridges, compressor models mean regular battery charging so they may not be the best choice for a month in situ, but they’ll tick along happily with a small solar panel setup.

Pros

• Good performance, even in hot cars and high ambient temperatures.
• Some can double as freezers.
• Work on uneven terrain or inclines.
• Can be run from a solar panel for out-of-vehicle use.
• Designed for efficient, low current draw running off your car battery.

Cons

• Setting a consistent temperature when ambient temperatures change can be tricky.
• Compressor noise may be noticeable in quiet campsites.
• Batteries must be charged regularly or your fridge will stop.
• If running off solar, it will turn off overnight.
• AC adaptors may need to be purchased separately.

Three-way (absorption) or gas portable fridges

Three-way fridges run on LPG as well as 12, 24 or 240 volts, and use gas flow heat exchangers not compressors. They’re quiet, but they don’t perform as well as compressor fridges, and must be kept level to operate.

Three-ways come into their own if you’re spending a long time in a remote location as one LPG cylinder can keep your fridge frosty for weeks – well beyond the capacity of a battery setup.

Pros

• The most versatile in terms of power sources.
• Run for several weeks on a single gas fill.
• You may not need a complicated dual-battery system.
• Almost silent.

Cons

• Must be level to operate, so not suited to constantly moving around.
• Inefficient when running on 12 volts and will rapidly drain batteries.
• Require good ventilation, so not ideal for tightly sealed caravans.
• Don’t allow you to set a temperature, but instead will cool to a certain amount below ambient. Fine for mild weather, but not for temperature extremes.
• Don’t perform as well as compressor fridges.

What about thermoelectric portable fridges?

Thermoelectric fridges don’t cool as well as other types and draw substantially more current. We’ve tested these in the past and found none could maintain safe food temperatures in anything but the mildest conditions, so they’re only suitable for keeping pre-chilled drinks cool on the way to weekend sports or on a short drive home from the shops.

How much do portable fridges cost?

Portable camping fridges aren’t cheap – expect to pay around $800–2000 for a 40–55L two-way, or $350–1300 for a three-way fridge.

Remember to factor in the cost of accessories like covers, mounting hardware, dual battery systems and other vehicle modifications to help you get the most out of your fridge.

Fridge, freezer, or both? Dual zone portable fridges

• If you’re just keeping your lunch cold then you won’t need freezer capability, but it’s essential if you’re away for more than a day or two. 
• Dual-compartment fridges give you the luxury of a fridge and freezer in one and are the most convenient.
• Some clever single-compartment fridges can also do double duty by using a baffle between frozen items on the bottom and fresh food on the top. While not as convenient, you’ll have more space overall as there’s no dividing walls.
• You can also team a single compartment model with an esky or cooler for the same effect by freezing ice bricks in the fridge overnight to keep drinks cold in the cooler the next day.

Portable fridge features to look for

Low current drain

Look for a portable fridge with low current draw, especially when running on 12 volts. This is a direct indication of how long your battery will last and how long your fridge will run for at your campsite, or in a parked vehicle. Five amps is quite high and one amp is quite low. Remember, the temperature inside a vehicle can climb rapidly, so your fridge will be working extra hard if you’re parked in the sun with the windows up. If you’re using your portable camping fridge as a freezer, then your current draw will also be higher than when using it as a fridge.

Battery protection

A fridge that shuts down when the battery’s struggling could save you from being stranded, especially if you’re running it from your starting battery – look for a model that cuts out at a fairly high voltage to keep your battery from going flat.

Look for fridges with variable protection. Some fridges are set to cut out at a very low voltage (usually 9.5V) to protect the compressor, but this won’t help your battery.

Deep cycling a regular car battery by using a portable fridge can reduce its life considerably (and leave you stranded), so battery protection can reduce the risk of damaging yours. Better yet, you may want to install a dual-battery system (with a battery designed for deep cycling) for regular fridge use. 

If you’ll use your fridge at home then consider its impact on your electricity bill and look for an energy-efficient model. Portable fridges don’t require an energy star rating, and they’re mainly designed for 12-volt use, so even though they’re small they may use as much power as a full-sized fridge. Consider a larger primary fridge instead and save the portable fridge for weekends away.

12-volt connector

Check your fridge has the correct connector for your vehicle. Many portable fridges come with a cigarette lighter plug to fit your vehicle’s accessory socket, but these plugs aren’t ideal for high current draw applications like fridges. They can even unplug when you hit a bump, turning your fridge off completely. 

Some fridges also come with a variety of connectors to suit power sources that may already be in your vehicle. An Anderson type plug is ideal as they’re designed for high current draw and connect very securely, but you may need to have one installed.

Mounting hardware

Robust mounting hardware is essential to prevent your fridge tipping over on sharp corners or becoming a projectile in an accident. Look for sturdy mounting points to keep your fridge in place, and make sure there’s corresponding tie-down points in your vehicle.

If you take your outdoor adventuring seriously (let’s face it, if you’re buying a portable fridge then you do), then you may want a dedicated mounting kit, and there’s a variety of OEM and aftermarket mounting kits available for most fridges.

Make sure kits are compatible with both your fridge and vehicle, and that it’s easy to attach and remove your fridge when you get home or into camp.

Portable fridge slides

A fridge slide can make accessing fridges easier, and a drop slide makes it an absolute breeze – especially if your 4×4 has been lifted. You could also consider shock-minimisation options such as a foam base.

Adequate insulation

Look for a fridge with thick walls and insulation as this will generally mean better efficiency and less load on your compressor, an they’ll use less power. Also consider outer casing materials – metal is durable but conducts heat more readily than plastic, while fibreglass offers the best insulation. Optional thermal covers provide additional insulation, and provide a level of protection against bumps, scratches and dents from other things in your car.

Thermostat and thermometer

Portable camping fridges, by their nature, are exposed to a much wider range of ambient temperatures than the fridge in your kitchen, and changes in ambient temperatures may mean the internal temperature of your fridge can vary. An integrated thermometer makes it easy to monitor the internal temperature of your fridge without needing to constantly open the lid, and an adjustable thermostat means you can adjust it to maintain optimum temperatures. A thermostat that lets you dial the temperature down to -18°°ä means you can use it as either a fridge or a freezer, so it’s much more versatile.

Adequate temperature range

Having a thermostat and thermometer are important, but what temperature should you set your fridge to? Most portable fridges have a temperature range of around 10°°ä to -18°°ä, so there are plenty of options. Like your kitchen fridge, if you’re using your fridge for fresh foods you should aim for a temperature of around 3°°ä, but you should aim for around -15°°ä for freezer use.

Drain plug

A removable bung in the bottom of your fridge, like the ones in many coolers, makes cleaning easy. Unlike coolers, you won’t need to drain away buckets and buckets of melted ice, but it does mean you can rinse out your fridge more easily without the need to tip it over. Look for a bung that remains attached to the fridge so you’ll be less likely to lose it.

Durable construction

Your fridge needs to be able to withstand the rigours you’re going to subject it to, so look for durable construction, strong hinges and tough casings. A quality fridge should be able to take the weight of someone standing on it.

Portable fridges are also made with a variety of casing materials, so consider what’s right for your application – metal is tough and suitable for heavy duty applications, plastic can flex a little so it’s a good choice for touring, and fibreglass is strong and impervious to corrosion, so it’s ideal for marine applications. Chances are your fridge is going to get knocked around and battered in the back of your car, so if aesthetics are important to you then avoid materials and finishes that will highlight dents and scratches, like polished metal.

Your portable fridge will also be more exposed to the sun than the fridge in your kitchen, and UV rays sun can make plastic brittle or cause warping – a particular issue with plastic lids.

Compressor type

The compressor is the heart of your fridge, so choosing a fridge with a good one should keep you in business for many years. Look for portable fridges with name-brand compressors like SECOP (Danfoss), Sawa, Fuji or Waeco.

Vents and evaporator position

Check the location of evaporators and cooling surfaces and consider the location of vents and fans – these will need good airflow for your fridge to function properly, so make sure they’re not going to be obstructed in your vehicle.

Controls

Check how easy the controls are to set and to adjust in order to maintain the right temperature when conditions change.

Baskets

Removable baskets make accessing things in a deep or single-compartment fridge easier. Look for baskets that are easy to clean.

Cover

A cover can help keep your portable fridge insulated so it works more efficiently, reducing your current draw and providing scratch protection. Check if covers are available to suit your fridge, and ensure covers don’t obstruct controls, vents or access. Check if a cover comes as standard or must be purchased separately.

Spare parts availability

Even the best-made portable fridge may break down, and you’ll probably be far from home when it happens. Look for brands with a national distribution network and a good reputation for after-sales support as this means spare parts are more likely to be readily available. Don’t dismiss smaller brands out of hand though – many of them provide great after-sales service and bend over backwards to get you back on the road again.

Other portable camping fridge accessories

In addition to mounting hardware, a cover and vehicle modifications, you might want to consider accessories to improve the safety and utility of your fridge when you’re in camp.

Security cable and lock

Nothing’s going to put a downer on your day like coming back to camp after adventuring only to find some lowlife’s put the portable in portable camping fridge and made off with your food. A security cable will help keep your fridge safe overnight or when you’re away from camp.

Portable fridge stand

A stand helps you raise your fridge off the ground, keeping it out of the dirt and damp, and means you don’t have to bend over any time you want to get something out of it.

Power pack

A dedicated battery pack for your fridge means you can run your fridge independently of your vehicle so it can stay behind in camp while you’re out and about. It also means you can run your fridge for longer periods without the risk of running your car’s battery flat. A battery pack also helps you get the most out of a solar panel. Speaking of which…

Solar panels

If you’re using a camping fridge then chances are you’re going to be off the grid most of the time, so you’re reliant on battery power for your fridge, or anything electrical. Your alternator can keep your car’s battery topped up when you’re driving, but running your fridge and other electrical items around camp will slowly but surely drain your power supply. Unlike generators which can be noisy and smelly, photovoltaic panels can silently generate free electricity to run your fridge during daylight hours and charge up batteries to keep the fridge running overnight.

Depending on the output of your solar setup and the current demands of your fridge you might not be able to power everything exclusively from your panels, but if not they’ll certainly extend the time you’ll get out of your battery pack.

Custom-built portable camping fridges

If you’ve got a custom 4×4 setup then why not add a custom portable fridge? Going bespoke means freedom to choose sizes, shapes, mounting options and even thermostat types to suit your specific requirements, just like the rest of your vehicle. A one-of-a-kind camping fridge may be more affordable than you think, and gives you campfire bragging rights.

How to reduce your camping fridge power consumption

Once you’re off the grid you’re at the mercy of your batteries’ capacity and the output of solar panels or a noisy, smelly generator, so it’s important to minimise your current draw as much as possible. And while you can still have a great time away without lights, music and the like, if you’ve run out of juice with a fridge full of perishable food you’re going to have a bad time.

Here’s how to help your portable fridge run more efficiently and keep the adventure rolling for longer.

• Pre-chill your food – Making sure your food and drinks are cold before you put them in the fridge means it doesn’t have to do the work of pulling them down to cooled temperatures. Use your kitchen fridge to cool everything down before you pack for your trip, and grab cold beers from the bottle shop cool room when resupplying. You can also let those frozen steaks thaw out slowly in the fridge as well – they’ll help keep everything else cool.
• Use a cover – An important but sometimes optional accessory, a thermal cover provides additional insulation, improving energy efficiency. As an added bonus, a cover also protects your expensive fridge from bumps, scratches and other damage.
• Take it out of the car – The temperature in your vehicle can climb rapidly when parked, and that’s bad news for your fridge which has to work harder. If possible, take your fridge out of the car if you’re not going anywhere for a while. If that’s not practical then try and park in the shade and leave the windows cracked.
• Put it in the shade – Moving your fridge to a shaded area out of direct sunlight helps minimise the amount of work it has to do. This goes double for non-powered coolers as it helps your ice last longer.
• Fill it up – A full fridge has a greater thermal mass, so the compressor cycles on and off less frequently, using less power. Use freezer bricks or water bottles to keep the fridge full when food supplies are running low. If you’re using your fridge as a freezer, these ice bricks can in turn keep fresh produce at a safe temperature in a cooler or esky the next day.
• Turn it off at night – If you’re camping in an area that gets really cold at night-time, you may be able to turn your fridge off overnight without affecting internal temperatures much. High thermal mass from food, freezer bricks and frozen water bottles helps maintain stable temperatures.
• Dial back the freezer temperature – While we recommend keeping your home freezer at -18°°ä for the best balance between energy consumption and long-term food storage, it’s unlikely you’ll keep food frozen in a portable fridge for months on end. Setting the thermostat a little warmer can make a big difference to energy consumption and will still be safe for keeping food for the duration of your camping trip.

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On this page:

• Which active ingredient should you look for in a mosquito repellent?
• Are natural repellents effective?
• Are mosquito repellents safe?
• Top tips for using mosquito repellents

Which active ingredient should you look for in a mosquito repellent?

Repellents can be produced using synthetic chemicals or natural products and are available as aerosols, creams, pump sprays, wipes and wearable devices such as wrist bands. The concentration of the active ingredient in mosquito repellents determines how long it will protect you.

• The most common active ingredients used are diethyltoluamide (DEET) and picaridin.
• Both DEET and picaridin are effective at preventing bites, but picaridin is odourless and so considered to be more pleasant to use.
• Plant-derived ingredients like melaleuca oil and citronella are also sometimes used.

Are natural repellents effective?

Natural repellent sprays and roll-ons are considered a safer alternative to other mosquito repellents, but while they provide some protection, in most cases they’re not as effective as chemical products that use DEET or picaridin.

Some companies also make wrist band mosquito repellents, which are a different story. When ÌÇÐÄVlog tested mosquito repellents in the past, the wrist band we looked at was relatively useless.

Are mosquito repellents safe?

Generally, mosquito repellents are safe for adults and children over three months of age. For bubs older than three months, look for child-specific insect repellent or those that have a low concentration of DEET or picaridin (less than 10%).

Insect repellents sold in Australia must be registered with the Australian Pesticides and Veterinary Medicines Authority (APVMA). This government authority assesses products for their effectiveness and safety, and the APVMA number must be labelled on the product along with the active ingredients and their concentration.

Repellents can be produced using synthetic chemicals or natural products and are available as aerosols, creams, pump sprays, wipes and wearable devices such as wrist bands.

Top tips for using mosquito repellents

1. Apply it evenly to all areas of exposed skin. A spray here and there or applying repellent to your clothes or belongings isn’t effective.
2. Don’t apply aerosols or pump sprays directly to your face – spray them onto your hands first and rub on evenly, avoiding contact with your eyes and mouth.
3. Reapply frequently if you go swimming or sweat heavily.
4. Don’t use repellents on children under three months old. Stick to using netting on prams, cots and play areas to avoid bites.
5. Consider how long you need to be protected. For a short trip outdoors a low concentration repellent will do, but if you’re off on a bushwalk or fishing trip you’ll need a higher-concentration repellent.
6. Perfumes and dark clothes attract mosquitoes, so avoid them if possible.

Quick facts

• Mosquitoes are blood-sucking insects that are attracted to the smell of our skin, and when they bite inject saliva into it.
• A bite from a mosquito that has developed a virus has the potential to transmit diseases. Our bodies react by causing the “itchy bite”.
• Only female mosquitoes bite – the blood from humans or animals gives them the protein they need for egg development.
• There are more than 300 species of mosquito in Australia, but only about 20 are of particular concern to human health.
• In Australia, the Ross River and Barmah Forest viruses are the most widespread mosquito-borne diseases, with more than 5000 cases of illness reported every year. Both cause joint pain and swelling, fatigue, muscle aches, rash and fever. Murray Valley encephalitis virus is potentially fatal and is generally reported in the north-west of the country, while dengue only occurs in Far North Queensland.

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On this page:

• What does our overall score consist of?
• Other criteria
• Our test lab

With more years combined experience than we can count in our laboratories, we’re proud of our expert testers. They’ve seen all types of products come through the labs, but one thing never changes – it needs to meet its claims. We test many types of products, but our focus on the basics means that when it’s time to buy, you can be sure the product you bring home does its job well.

On top of this, many of our testers sit on Standards committees, both national and international, so we keep up to date with how labs and manufacturers are changing the standards and to give consumers a voice in this forum, where sometimes only government and industry are represented.

How we choose which repellents to test?

Why do we choose one repellent over another to test? There are a number of reasons, but our priority is to test what you’ll see in the stores.

When we know what you want, our buyers go out and use your member fees to buy the repellents from a variety of retailers.

How often do we test repellents?

The last time we tested them was several years ago – but we like to check in periodically with the category to see how they are changing formulations to see whether anyone is creating a product that is exceptional.

How does ÌÇÐÄVlog test mosquito repellents?

We use external labs that specialise in testing for repellency. Each product is applied liberally to the forearm of a human volunteer between the wrist and the elbow. Lotion and cream formulations are then spread evenly after application. We get the lab to test each product four times. 

Repellency testing is conducted in cages constructed out of clear plastic for easy viewing and fine polyester netting for ventilation. Approximately 40 unfed, 5 to 10 day old female mosquitoes are introduced to each cage. The mosquito used is the Dengue mosquito Aedes aegypti. 

Assessments are made prior to application of the treatments and then at 5, 30, 60, 90, 120, 150, 240 and 360 minutes after application. During each post treatment assessment, arms are exposed to caged mosquitoes for three minutes and the number of ‘attempted’ landings and ‘successful’ landings were recorded.

What does our overall score consist of?

We weight the different time periods regardless of claims. The overall scores weights each period of time the product repels mosquitoes – the longer the better. It excludes 5 minutes. Weightings are as follows: 30min = 5%, 60min = 5%, 90min = 10%, 120min = 15%, 150min = 15%, 240min = 20%, 360min = 30%.

Other criteria

We list all the claims given for each product, however we don’t test them as we try to focus on their prime purpose – how long they can keep mosquitoes from landing on you.

Our test lab

We maintain labs that are up to date with the latest reference machines and calibrated measurement tools to bring you results you can count on.

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On this page:

• How GPS works
• Can't I just use my smartphone instead of a handheld GPS?
• How much should I pay for a handheld GPS?
• Features to look for in a handheld GPS
• Handheld GPS Jargon buster
• Safety alert – Be prepared!

How GPS works

GPS works by collecting information from a group of satellites that constantly orbit the earth. You only need a connection with three satellites to get a 2D position, with a fourth connection needed to calculate height.

Under a clear sky, you can expect a handheld GPS to take just a few seconds to calculate its position. However, if you’re in dense foliage it might take a bit longer. Once a location or route is established, the GPS will keep track of its position and speed to give you information on where you’ve been and where you’re headed.

Can’t I just use my smartphone instead of a handheld GPS?

Smartphones come with inbuilt GPS, but they need to be connected to a data network in order to load map information – which isn’t always realistic when you’re out bush. You can pre-load maps of where you’re going, but these can take up a lot of memory and they might not have all the topographic information you need. A handheld GPS lets you go further off the beaten track.

Points of interest

Saving points of interest (or waypoints) along your journey, like a river crossing, interesting rock formation or even a hard-to-find bookstore, is easily done by pressing a button or two and can be invaluable if you re-visit the area.

You can even record your entire journey – creating an evolving snail-trail as you move – which you can use again in the future or to track back to your original location.

If you’ve saved points of interest on your handheld GPS you can just enter these coordinates into Google Earth to show your lucky friends the places you’ve visited. No need to bore them with a slideshow!

How much should I pay for a handheld GPS?

Models range in price from $139 to $799.

Features to look for in a handheld GPS

Screen

A high-resolution, and preferably colour, screen is necessary if you want to use detailed topographical maps.

Comfort

The unit needs to be comfortable in your hand, with well-spaced buttons that allow you to select functions easily.

Some models have small buttons and a joystick to control the various settings, while others are larger with a bigger screen and wider buttons. If you have large hands, or want to use the GPS with gloves on, a larger unit could be a good option for you.

Batteries

Most units can use both rechargeable batteries or normal alkaline batteries (AA or AAA). Others are powered by a rechargeable Li-ion battery, with AAA battery adapter as standard in the box.

Alarm

Most units have an alarm to let you know when you’ve arrived back at the starting point or if you’ve moved too far off the saved path.

Maps

Units usually come with a basic world map, but if you need a more detailed topographic map for extreme exploring you’ll need to fork out a bit more cash. Some units even support marine navigation maps – again, an additional expense.

PC mapping software

This allows you to select a point of interest or route, and download it to your GPS in advance. And if you want to show off what a hardy bushwalker you are, you can upload routes back to a map on your PC to show where you’ve been.

Connectivity cable

This allows your GPS to connect to a PC to download and upload information. But beware – these cables can be expensive if they use a proprietary connection.

Handheld GPS Jargon buster

GPS Global Positioning System.

Fix A successful connection with a group of orbiting satellites.

GLONASS Russian satellite system. Many of the latest models support both GPS and GLONASS for a faster positional fix.

Topographic map Shows elevation through the use of contour lines and altitude markings.

Waypoint or POI (point of interest) An exact coordinate marked to show a position.

Safety alert – Be prepared!

A handheld GPS will give you very accurate readings, but it’s still a good idea to learn how to get yourself around without it – just in case it dies on you in the middle of nowhere. Learning to use a compass and map for anything longer than a stroll in the park is a good skill to have as back-up.

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On this page:

• What should I look for in a tent?
• Do I need a solo, two-person or family-sized tent?
• What about the weather – will it come inside the tent?
• What else do I need to consider when purchasing a tent?

What should I look for in a tent?

Comfort and an easy set-up are key when it comes to choosing the right tent. You don’t want your night under the stars to turn into a cramped and miserable washout, or a divorce-inducing argument over which peg goes where.

Your tent should:

• be easy to pitch
• keep you dry
• have enough space for you, your camping buddies and your gear.

Do I need a solo, two-person or family-sized tent?

Tent capacity is based on the number of sleeping bags that can fill the floor space and doesn’t take into account storage for luggage and other camping gear.

Unless you want to get really up close and personal with your camping companions, a good rule of thumb is to over-accommodate by at least one person. Four-person tents are generally great for two people – giving you enough space to move around and store your things, without ending up on top of each other. Unless you’re aiming for that, in which case underestimate!

Tip: It’s a good idea to see the tent set up in the shop before you buy.

What about the weather – will it come inside the tent?

Just looking at the tent won’t tell you whether or not it’s going to leak in the rain, but many tents specify what weather they’re best for. Good ventilation is important for Australian weather, but the trade-off for a cool breeze on a hot night will be reduced water resistance in a downpour.

Check out the rain test scores in our reviews – anything less than 70% means the tent leaked water to an uncomfortable degree. And no one wants to wake up in a soggy sleeping bag.

What else do I need to consider when purchasing a tent?

Style

If you’re after a larger tent, such as a 4-person or 6-person tent, your two main choices are a cabin-style or a dome. Dome tents are lighter and easier to put up and take down. Cabin-style tents are better suited to long holidays camping in one spot. If you need a smaller tent, your main choice is the dome shape.

If you choose to go with a dome tent, your choice is between a crossover (the frame poles cross over each other), geodesic style (crossover poles and two hoop poles at the sides) or pure dome (two hoops only). Geodesics generally have more space and greater stability but are heavier and a little slower to put up. They’re also more expensive.

Height

If you’re going to spend a fair amount of time in the tent, make sure it’s high enough to stand in. Also make sure the walls don’t slope in too much, limiting the amount of space you can use.

Instructions

Look for a tent with assembly instructions that are attached to the carry bag. This can be very useful if you haven’t put the tent up in a long time.

Peg down

Tents that peg down are easier to secure than those that clip on or attach by Velcro. It means you don’t have to line the tent up so precisely. Peg-down points should be heavy-duty and securely attached to the tent.

Pegs

Pegs should be a good length (at least 20cm) and thickness (around 5mm) and preferably made of steel. Plastic ones with a flatter profile are good in very sandy soil but tend to break more easily.

Ropes

Ropes should be a good length and thickness, and easily adjustable.

Carry bag

A large, strong carry bag is essential, but note that what appears to be an adequate size in the shop may be too small when you try to fit the tent back in it. It never rolls up as small as when you first got it!

Windows

Good ventilation is essential and netted windows should allow for a cross-breeze in hot climates. Zipped windows are best, but there should be good wide flaps over the zip to keep rain from entering the tent.

Door

• The door should be large enough to let you come and go easily. Some tents allow you to zip the fly screen and the door either together or separately.
• Doors at the front and back of the tent are great for keeping the weather out if it’s coming from one direction, while still allowing for ventilation.
• Some doors can be turned into an awning to provide shade and shelter while outside the tent.

Internal pockets

Pockets in the inner walls of the tent are useful for storing small items like a torch or gloves.

Power cord access

If you’ll be using electricity (say, for a light), cord access through a small zip in the inner tent wall is useful.

Hook

If you’re using a portable lantern, it’s useful to have a ceiling hook to hang it from.

Sunroof

Sunroofs in tents are usually clear plastic panels that let the light in, but can be zipped up with an opaque flap when night falls. Look for a good seal around the sunroof to avoid leakage.

The post How to buy the best tent appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

Here are five simple tips to help you keep your esky, ice box, chilly bin, cooler – whatever you want to call it – as cold as possible. 

1. Pre-chill everything

Every cold thing in your cooler will help everything else stay cold – but a room-temperature bottle of soft drink will let the team down and bring the temperature up. 

It’s worth getting organised in advance to make sure your drinks stay frosty. You could even freeze food and non-carbonated drinks the night before to keep things extra chilly. 

ÌÇÐÄVlog tip: To keep your food safe, it needs to stay below 4°°ä (or above 60°°ä), so packing your cooler should be the very last thing you do before heading out of the door to make sure everything stays as cold as possible. 

2. Fill ‘er up

A full cooler is a cold cooler. “You want the maximum thermal mass you can get,” says ÌÇÐÄVlog cooler expert Ashley Iredale. “The fewer air gaps, the better.”

Any unfilled space in your cooler will warm up, so fill up empty space with ice bricks, ice, cold food and drinks. 

If you’re using ice bricks, place a layer on the bottom and a layer on the top – and squeeze some down the sides if there’s room.

If you’re packing food and drinks together, put cans and bottles down the bottom, and use oven racks to keep your salads, sandwiches and other foods separate on top. This will stop your food going soggy when the ice melts. 

“Some of the bigger, more expensive coolers come with baskets for this purpose, but you can rig up a DIY version yourself without too much hassle,” says Ashley. 

ÌÇÐÄVlog tip: You can make huge ice blocks by freezing water in ice cream containers or 1L milk bottles. But you’ll need to plan ahead to make sure your cooler has enough room for these and all your food and drinks.

3. Location, location, location

When it comes to where you place your cooler, choose wisely.

First, make sure it’s in the shade, not your hot car or the blazing sun. And think about where the sun will be in a few hours’ time – you don’t want to move a heavy cooler.

If it has a drainage point, consider where the melted ice will actually drain to. Make sure your tent or picnic blanket isn’t downhill from your cooler, otherwise the great thaw will literally put a dampener on things. 

And a word of warning about safety. Secure your cooler when travelling in your car: in an accident, it could become a projectile if it’s not tied down. And no-one wants to be knocked off by a flying VB stubby. (It would be a particularly Australian way to go, but still.)

4. Keep a lid on it

Keep the lid of your cooler closed as much as possible, and try to open it as little as possible – be generous and ask your mates if they want a drink when you’re getting one. 

And make sure the lid is fully closed each time. Were you born in a tent? 

“To boost your cooler’s insulation, you can buy or make an insulated cover,” says Ashley. “A lot of camping fridges come with covers for this reason.”

5. Get mobile

Turn your cooler into a fridge for long-haul trips by using it in combination with a camping fridge.

Set your camping fridge to freezer mode and make ice bricks in it, then add them to your cooler as needed – that’ll keep you going indefinitely.

Liquid ice bricks stay frozen longer than gel-based ones.

The post Five hacks to help you get the most out of your Esky or cooler appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

How the Scrubba works

If you’re travelling for business, you may need to spend the money on your hotel’s laundry service to keep your shirts and smart, tailored items looking fresh. But for casual travellers, clothing doesn’t need to look perfect, especially if you’re away from civilisation. The Scrubba – an Australian invention – may be just what you need.

The Scrubba is a sealable, waterproof bag with an opening at one end where you put a small amount of clothing, warm water and detergent. You then roll it up, push out the air, and push down on the bag to rub the clothes against an internal washboard. The washboard is made of a stronger plastic that has small blunt spikes to create friction and loosen dirt.

Once you’ve pushed and rubbed the clothes long enough (for 30 seconds to quickly refresh them, or up to five minutes to clean) you untie the bag, empty it out and rinse the clothes off. 

Dry the clothes, and you’re ready to go get them dirty again.

So how well does it wash?

We tested the Scrubba with three small towels. We attached soiled swatches to the towels and followed the instructions, using powder detergent. We removed the swatches from the towels after using the bag for three minutes. After drying the swatches, we used a spectrophotometer to read how much soil had been removed. 

The Scrubba removed about as much dirt as our worst performing top loading washing machine, so this little bag is removing dirt – just not much. Although it’s not a great result, we think you could improve it with better quality detergent (maybe a liquid so it dissolves quicker), water that’s a bit warmer than we’ve used, some more scrubbing, or all three.

ÌÇÐÄVlog verdict

The Scrubba works, and with some experimentation – perhaps some extra scrubbing and better detergent – we think it will get your clothes clean. If you’re happy carrying another piece of travel gear in your luggage and don’t mind the limited capacity, it’s certainly going to save you some money over hotel laundry costs in the long term. 

If you’re some distance from any laundry facilities – if you’re camping, for example – this may be one of the better solutions available. However, if you have access to a local laundrette you might prefer the connection with the locals and the ability to wash more clothes at once.

Rating: 3.5 stars

Cost: $64.95

Contact:

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