Certainly, the fast fashion industry has done a lot of work to convince us that buying brand new clothes every season (or preferably, once or twice a week) is the only way to look fashionable.Ìý

And it seems we’re falling hard for fast fashion. According to a 2024 analysis by the Australia Institute, Australians buy more clothes per person than any other country, snapping up an average of 56 new clothing items a year (that’s more than one item per week).Ìý

Sadly, more than 200,000 tonnes of that clothing ends up in landfill each year (the equivalent weight of almost four Sydney Harbour Bridges). If we’re looking to make those numbers smaller, op shops are a good place to start.

And as well as being good for the environment, if you’ve got champagne tastes but a beer budget, thoughtful thrifting of certain pieces can leave you with more money in your pocket to splash out on some expensive items you can’t find second-hand.

This approach can deliver a much more sustainable and satisfying wardrobe than churning through cash (and poorly made synthetic fibres) trying to stay on the fast fashion treadmill.

Also, thrifting can be a great creative outlet. The challenge of finding the perfect piece to complete a look or even buying an out-there item and trying to work out how to style it can be a fun artistic challenge. The whole process also helps you generate outfits that are much more uniquely “you” than the cookie cutter looks on the racks.

Here are my top picks for clothing items you can thrift for a staple wardrobe:

Plain tees/basics

If you watch as many styling videos as I do, you’ll know that layering is key (especially in winter). We all need base items that are simple and plain, like t-shirts, singlets or long sleeved tops. I never bother wasting my cash (or generating extra textile waste) by buying these items brand new.Ìý

With the cooler weather arriving, I recently dug out my winter clothing supplies and took stock of what was missing. I noticed I had quite a few nice jumpers, but nothing to layer underneath.

So I picked up four basic long sleeved tops from my local independent church op shop to wear as a base layer, each for $2, each 100% cotton. I could have gotten a similar haul from Target or Kmart for 50 bucks or so, but why bother when there are plenty knocking about already?

In summer, I’m a big fan of a little cropped singlet and I have thrifted near-new condition tops like this in a rainbow of colours. If you’re petite like me, my advice is to always check the kids section. I often see crop tops and even t-shirts in a size 6 or 8 women’s size misshelved in the 6 or 8 children’s section. Kids clothes are usually priced even cheaper than adults so it’s an extra bargain.

Belts, scarves etc

Some of my favourite thrifted fashion staples are the classic black leather belts I wear constantly. I have one with a silver buckle and one with gold and they are so timeless I can’t imagine a future where they aren’t staple accessories.Ìý

It’s simply a matter of hunting through the various synthetic and low quality offerings and feeling for some genuine leather – a real diamond in the rough. A leather belt costs at least $30 or $40 new, so it’s a great staple to grab at an op shop if you can.

My personal aesthetic doesn’t stretch to scarves (although as I’m writing this I’m thinking… should I start incorporating scarves into my outfits?), but the op shops are positively overflowing with them. They come in every print under the sun and a few I’ve spotted are even genuine silk. A silk scarf and leather belt are the kind of details that can subtly uplevel your look, and they’re very easy to thrift.

Caps

Ever since I hit 30 and became aware that sun damage is a *thing* for skin (and apparently sunscreen can’t necessarily be relied on to do the job on its own), I’ve become much more amenable to wearing a hat. A happy side effect is that I’ve also realised that adding a cap to my outfit can really pull it all together.Ìý

I like to have a range of colours (and textures) and brand doesn’t really matter to me. I’ve picked up corduroy, denim and basic cotton caps for a couple of dollars here and there. You can also pick up some pretty funny slogan or branded caps if that’s your thing – it can certainly be a conversation starter.

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Nothing is quite as timeless as a simple leather bag. And, to be fair, it can be worth spending a decent chunk on a leather bag that will last a lifetime as an investment piece. But, if you want the piece without the investment, don’t dismiss your op shop as an option.Ìý

My go-to bags are all thrifted: a leather backpack, designer leather shoulder bag and a cute black waist bag. I even thrift all my reusable shopping bags, because – why not?

Yes, you’ll have to riffle through your fair share of peeling pleather to find the genuine leather grail, but the hunt is half the fun!

Oversized shirts and jackets (for women)

As somebody for whom bodily comfort is a key value (I will NEVER wear high heels), the baggy clothing trend could not be more welcome. And let me say, the men’s section of the op shop is baggy heaven for women, so it’s a big mistake to skip it if you’re thrifting for women’s fashions.Ìý

For one thing, women’s clothes are often misshelved there, but also, men’s clothes are often sturdier, better quality and have more pockets (that are actually functional).

I especially love a super-thick cotton tee with a random slogan or logo (although there are plenty of distasteful ones to avoid), and an oversized denim or leather jacket. Men’s button down shirts are also pretty trendy for women right now.

Risky looks/trends

If there’s a look or trend I’m not quite sure I can pull off, like a transparent skirt, ultra-baggy Gen Z jeans or a waistcoat-as-a-top, I’ll give it a try if I can thrift it. That way, if I wear it once or twice and it just doesn’t feel like me, I can re-donate it, no harm done.Ìý

When it comes to buying new, I try to only buy zero-risk, sure-bet items that I know I’m going to get a lot of wear out of. The feeling of donating some trendy item that I impulse purchased (or worse, staring it down in my wardrobe every day) is one I try to avoid at all costs.

Sports kit

From new-with-tags workout clothing to shinpads and soccer boots, op shops are an absolute mecca for cut-price sports kit. Buying second-hand is particularly smart if you’re shopping for a kid who may lose interest in the sport the following season, or will outgrow anything you buy them in a matter of months.Ìý

My son and I both play soccer and we picked up all our boots, socks, shinpads and black sports shorts from the op shop.

Things I think are worth buying new

As a hardcore op shop enthusiast, this list is pretty short. But I do feel that the key to a successful (mostly) thrifted wardrobe is carefully buying a few high quality new items that allow some of your more left-of-field op shop finds to shine.

Jeans/pants

There really is no substitute for a pair of pants that fits you properly, particularly jeans. Investing some money in a few high-quality pairs of pants that fit perfectly and make you feel good can give you the confidence to experiment with some thrifted items without worrying about looking daggy.Ìý

While it is possible to find an amazing pair of jeans at op shops, in my experience they are one of the harder items to thrift.

If buying new, invest in heavy denim jeans that are 100% cotton. You’ll be surprised how many pairs contain a percentage of polyesters, which means they get that stretched-out look after a while and need to be tossed.

In my recent search, I noted that Nudie Jeans even offers a lifetime warranty with free repairs, which means if you find the right pair you really could be set for life.

If jeans aren’t your thing, a pair of well-tailored pants made from good quality material will provide the perfect base.

Shoes and slippers

The least-thrifted area of my wardrobe is definitely my shoe cupboard. I think a really nice shoe can carry an entire outfit and, of course, you need your shoes to fit perfectly and be comfortable for all-day wear (well, I certainly do – as mentioned, I’ll never, ever wear high heels).Ìý

If you carefully buy a few staple shoes that you love to wear, you’ll usually get very good value out of them and they’ll help you feel more confident putting together outfits with thrifted goods. I’m a strong believer that a branded shoe can make your whole outfit look expensive.

When it comes to slippers, buying second-hand is simply gross (in my opinion). Synthetic slippers always have a bit of a smell and even if you find genuine uggs (which rarely stink), they tend to really mould to the shape of the wearer’s foot. Uggs are another item that’s worth buying new – they can last a lifetime if you care for them properly.

The post Thrifty op shop clothing steals to save money (and landfill) appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

How to clean the outside of your ugg boots

According to Todd Watts, director of Australian-owned ugg manufacturer Ugg Since 1974, the main challenge of cleaning ugg boots is avoiding discolouring them.

“Sheepskin suede is so porous it will absorb anything,” says Watts. “This means if you have to wet the suede in the cleaning process, you’ll end up with a darker patch on the section you’ve cleaned.”

He says using liquid to clean your uggs should be a last resort.

“Try cleaning your boots with a suede brush, dry cloth, chalk or a gum eraser first,” he says. “If you do end up using water, give both boots an all-over clean so they appear the same colour after cleaning.”

How to remove stains

Liquid stains (e.g. water, oil, mud)

1. Rub plain white chalk on the stained areas and leave the boots overnight.
2. Use a suede brush (a nail brush or toothbrush will also do) to lightly buff off the excess chalk, then rub the affected area against a clean area of sheepskin to remove the chalky residue.

Other stains

1. For more serious stains such as pen marks, use a colourless gum eraser to gently buff away the stain.
2. If the stain is particularly stubborn, Watts recommends using a very light sandpaper to buff away – extremely gently – the colour of the stain.

How to clean the inside of your ugg boots

Watts says if you avoid wearing socks (see below) and ensure your feet are clean and dry before you put on your uggs, the inners should stay clean and odour-free.

But if your inners do get dirty or smelly, there’s plenty you can do.

Deep clean

1. Lightly dampen a cloth and give the interior a scrub. Watts advises trying plain water first, because soap can strip the wool of its lanolin (a kind of natural wax or grease).
2. Let the boots dry in a shady, well-ventilated area for 24 to 48 hours, and make sure they’re completely dry before wearing.Ìý
3. If they’re still dirty, apply some mild soap or detergent to a damp cloth and repeat the cleaning process.
4. Rinse the cloth thoroughly, wring it out and use the damp, clean cloth to remove any soap residue. Then repeat the drying process.

Getting rid of odours

1. Sprinkle the insides of your uggs with baking soda and leave them overnight. In the morning, empty out the baking soda and give them a quick vacuum if you don’t want powdery feet.
2. Some retailers also sell a spray to freshen the insides of your boots and stop odours building up in the first place

Consider replacing your inners

The wool inside your uggs will become compressed over time. But that doesn’t mean you have to consign them to landfill.Ìý

Some boots have interchangeable inner soles which means you canÌýswap out the existing sole for a fluffy new one. You can buy new soles online for less than $20 and they’re compatible with most brands that have an interchangeable sole.Ìý

Should I wear socks with my ugg boots?

No. Slipping your bare feet directly into your uggs isn’t just deliciously cosy, but it also actually helps prevent odours, according to Watts.

“The natural fibres of ugg boots allow air to circulate, letting the skin breathe and preventing sweating,” he says.

“Socks make your feet sweat, which makes bacteria grow inside your boots, leading to smelly inners.”

If your boots have a synthetic inner this may not apply (synthetic boots aren’t technically ugg boots).Ìý

Should I clean my ugg boots in the washing machine?Ìý

No. Watts says putting your uggs in the washing machine will permanently damage the inners, knotting the wool and removing the natural lanolin that keeps them feeling soft and comfortable.

Where do ugg boots come from?

Ugg boots are an Aussie icon with reports that they’ve been worn since as far back as the 1930s. They’ve since become popular around the world.Ìý

So it’s somewhat surprising that the most famous brand, UGG (formerly UGG Australia) is actually owned by a US company called Deckers Outdoor Corporation.Ìý

What’s in a name?

What’s more, Deckers has trademarked the term “ugg” internationally, preventing Australian manufacturers from marketing their products as ugg boots outside Australia and New Zealand.ÌýÌý

Australian courts have ruled that the word “ugg” is a generic term that refers to sheepskin boots, and it cannot be trademarked here.

Want Australian-made uggs?

Not all ugg boots sold in Australia are Australian-made – many brands make their products in Asia. The country of manufacture may not be important to all consumers, but some will prefer to buy ugg boots that are made in Australia. If you’re one of them, here are some tips.

Check the label

Judith Tratner, director of Australian Ugg Boots and vice-president of the Australian Sheepskin Association, says shoppers who do want Australian-made uggs should carefully check individual products for the sewn-in “Made in Australia” label and the triangular “Australian Made” swing tag.

“Make sure you check the actual product you are purchasing and don’t be misled by ‘Australian Made’ logos or certificates on the walls or shelves of the store,” she says.

“Some retailers will stock a small range of Australian-made uggs amongst large numbers of imported uggs just so they can use the ‘Australian Made’ triangle on their website or in-store.”

Buying online?

Tratner says most online retailers selling uggs that are made in Australia will proudly advertise this fact. If they don’t, their products probably aren’t made in Australia.

“Watch out for misleading phrases like ‘Australian classic’, ‘Premium Australian’ or ‘Australian designs’,” she says. “These claims do not mean a product is Australian made or owned.”Ìý

Misleading ugg boot marketing is common. For instance, Ugg boot retailer Ozwear Connection was fined $25,200 by the ACCC in 2018 for making false country-of-origin representations for its “Classic Ugg” footwear range.

The post How to clean and care for ugg boots appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

If you’ve ever been to a beach and ended up with half the Sahara inside your car or on your carpet when you got home, you can probably appreciate the appeal of a sand-free towel.

Sand-free towels of the kind made by Australian brand Tesalate (there are other options on the market too, such as those from sustainable br²¹²Ô»åÌý ²¹²Ô»åÌý) are designed to repel sand rather than collect it in clingy crevices.

We took a Tesalate towel to one of Sydney’s fine-sand beaches to find out if it keeps the sand at bay, along with doing its main job of drying.

What is the Tesalate towel?

At a glance, these brightly coloured and patterned towels look like standard beach towels. The difference is that they’re made with a thin, synthetic microfibre that the brand calls ‘AbsorbliteTM’.

The fabric is designed to repel sand to stop it clinging to the towel and ending up all over your car or home once you pack it up and leave the beach. It also comes with its own waterproof carry bag so you can keep water drips out of your car.

The brand claims that the towel’s fabric is extremely absorbent, holding up to a litre of water without dripping, and fast drying, needing just half the drying time of a standard beach towel.

Does it really repel sand?

I took my towel to the beach on a particularly windy day. The first thing I noticed was that, no, the towel doesn’t completely repel sand, as though armed with an invisible shield. If the wind is whipping it up, some sand will inevitably find its way onto the towel.

But the real test came when I went into the water and emerged with sandy feet (I rubbed extra sand up my calves for good measure).

When I dried my sandy legs with the Tesalate towel, the sand wiped away easily and didn’t remain on the towel at all. This meant that once I left the beach and walked back up onto the footpath, both my body and the towel were entirely sand-free.

Does it get you dry?

Yes – not only did the Tesalate towel easily dry me off when I got out of the water, but the fact that sand didn’t cling to me either made me feel much more ‘normal’ and less wet-and-sandy than I usually do when leaving the beach.

To make doubly sure, I also used it at home after a shower and it performed just as well as my standard bath towels.

Does it get itself dry?

I’d read a few online reviews claiming that the Tesalate towel is tricky to dry once it gets super soggy, contrary to the manufacturer’s claims.Ìý

So I plunged it into a sinkful of water, alongside a standard beach towel, wrung it out and hung it on a line in a moderately warm room, but out of direct sunlight.Ìý

Again, it performed really well – and was dry in about half the time of the fluffier cotton beach towel.

A few quibbles

If you like the sense of being wrapped in a nice, chunky, fluffy towel, this is not the product for you. The fabric is thin – more like a tea-towel’s thickness than a standard towel – which also means it flips around a fair bit in the wind.

The ‘Regular’ size is also on the smaller side – 160cm x 80cm. My 165cm frame lay on it fairly comfortably. But if you like a bit more room to spread out, it might be worth investing in the XL size, which is 160cm x 160cm.

Would I recommend it?

Yes. I can’t say it will ever convert me into a sandy-beach person – give me a rocky sea entry or a nice, sand-free pool any day.Ìý

But if you love the beach but hate the sand, this would be a great addition to your towel arsenal.

The post Tesalate full sized ‘sand-free’ beach towel review appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

But rashies don’t last forever, and the ravages of sun, chlorine, washing and stretching will diminish their sun protection over time – as the various warnings and disclaimers on the labels remind you.

This rashie guide will help you decide on the best rashie to buy by explaining:

• ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) and how it’s measured
• how to know if a rashie is doing its job properly
• how to care for a rashie and when to replace it.

What is UPF?

Ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) is a measure applied to fabrics that tells you how much of the sun’s UV radiation is blocked, and therefore how much protection it gives. A UPF of 50 lets 1/50 or two percentÌý of UV radiation penetrate, whereas a UPF of five lets one-fifth or 20% of UV radiation through.

The UPF of a material can be affected by:

• its thickness – denim protects better than organza
• the tightness of the weave – and stretching can reduce this
• the colour – darker and intense bright colours give more protection than light ones
• the fibre – all other things being equal, synthetic materials give more protection than natural fibres
• the addition of UV-absorbing finishing chemicals or optical brighteners
• moisture – dry fabric often has a higher UPF than wet fabric.

The Australian standard for UPF measurement is AS 4399:2020 Sun protective clothing – Evaluation and classification. This standard was first introduced in 1996 to guide manufacturers and suppliers in communicating the sun protection properties of materials in products such as swimwear, workwear, schoolwear and outdoor wear to Australians and New Zealanders.Ìý

It was revised in 2017 to simplify the UPF rating system and introduce body coverage information. It was revised again in 2020 to include body coverage and labelling information.

How do you know if it’s doing its job properly?Ìý

If you’re wearing a rashie and not getting sunburnt, you may think it’s doing its job. And it probably is – against the burning UVB radiation, at least. In general, fabrics give more protection against UVB than UVA, so an absence of sunburn doesn’t tell you whether it’s giving effective protection against UVA – and that’s the radiation most responsible for premature ageing of skin. It also causes skin cancer, including melanoma, as does UVB.

Visible signs that your rashie may not be protecting you properly are a slackening of the fabric and loss of its shape. When it’s wet is a good time to check for excessive stretching and transparency. Ultimately, it’s better to be safe than sorry, and buy and replace rashies regularly – and the good news is they don’t have to be expensive to be effective.

The test of timeÌý

We wanted to see just how well rashies stood up over time, so in 2016, we tested a rashie that a child had worn over a period of three to four years. The rash vest had endured a battering in chlorine pools and at the beach, and although it was usually rinsed, it was rarely washed. The material showed signs of wear (see image) and had lost elasticity in patches.

This rashie was rated UPF 20 after taking the worst patches into account, which still puts it in the ‘good’ category for protection. So although a new rashie is better, it’s good to know that even a well-worn rashie is going to do an OK job if you don’t have another option – and some protection is better than none when it comes to Australia’s harsh summer sun.

For comparison, a thin white cotton T-shirt has a UPF of about five.

Are expensive brands better than cheap brands?Ìý

Parents in a 2016 ÌÇÐÄVlog survey were divided on whether it was better to get cheaper or more expensive rashie tops for their kids.Ìý

Many thought the cheaper ones were just as good as more expensive ones, though that may depend on how they’re treated. Others believed the more expensive ones were better because they lasted longer than one season and could be passed on to another child when outgrown.

Previous ÌÇÐÄVlog rash vest tests found that both cheaper and more expensive tops easily met the claimed UPF protection after a battery of sun, chlorine exposure and repeated washing. But there may well be a difference between them after two or three years of use.Ìý

On the other hand, buying cheaper ones could be a better choice if it would make you more likely to replace them more often, and err on the side of caution.

Care instructions

For something that’s probably going to be worn in salt water, chlorine and freshwater, in the sun and on the sand, by the children of harried parents, the care instructions can be pretty demanding.

• Most labels point out that you should rinse the rashies after use, but fresh water may not be available.
• Rolling them up when wet or wrapping them in a towel isn’t usually recommended.Ìý
• Most UPF-rated garments recommend a gentle machine wash or even handwashing. But this will depend on the garment, so check the care instructions on the label first.
• Rashies should be line-dried in the shade.

We understand parents may not always strictly follow the care instructions – our advice is just to do your best!

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On this page:

• Who's to blame?
• Labelling laws
• Stain removal: washing vs dry cleaning
• Tips for dry cleaning
• Dry cleaning FAQs
• Dry cleaning gone wrong: case studies

Who’s to blame?

When a garment is destroyed, consumers usually blame the dry cleaner. The dry cleaner in turn may choose to compensate, or deny fault.

According to , a dry cleaner is required to provide service with acceptable care, skill and technical knowledge and take all necessary steps to avoid loss or damage. But when things go wrong it may not always be their fault.

Incorrect care instructions could be the cause. If the instructions on the label have been followed and the garment has been damaged, you could spare the dry cleaner your angry rant and take the item back to the retailer you bought it from.

What’s tricky is figuring out who’s at fault. If the compensation claim is more than several hundred dollars and the dry cleaner refuses to accept responsibility, you can take it further by contacting the Drycleaning Institute of Australia () which provides advice and a mediation service for members.Ìý

Brian Tonkin, CEO of the DIA, advises that in his experience, the fault is approximately one-third each for the drycleaner, the manufacturer and the consumer.

Labelling laws

There areÌý, enforceable by the Australian Consumer and Competition Commission (ACCC). In theory, fines of up to $1.1 million apply for companies that fail to comply. Under the laws, all clothing suppliers –Ìýmanufacturers, importers, wholesalers, distributors and retailers –Ìýmust ensure their care labelling is:

• legible
• accurate
• permanently attached to the garment
• written in English
• accessible at the point of sale
• appropriate and adequate for the care of the garment so that when followed the article is not damaged.

Cleaning labels

Without specific care instructions on what’s allowed and what should not be done to the garment, the risk of damage is high, especially for fabrics that contain elastane or plasticisers (typically used in garments to provide stretch and recovery characteristics).Ìý

Dry cleaning labels may wrongly specify that a particular chemical should be used to clean the garment.

• P or “dry clean only” means the garment can be dry cleaned with the solvent perchloroethylene (perc), hydrocarbon solvents green earth and white spirit. Dry cleaning the wrong garment with perc can cause dyes to run and beads to melt, says Tonkin.
• F means dry cleaning should only be carried out with hydrocarbon solvents green earth and white spirit (no perc).
• W means item may be treated in water by a professional wet cleaning process.
• Plain circle including a cross means do not dry clean.

Stain removal: washing vs dry cleaning

Consumers often ask our laundry lab experts about stain removal and fabric care – what will come out in the wash and what needs dry cleaning? So we conducted a pilot stain test by setting red wine, blue ballpoint pen and curry stains on a business shirt. The care label stated the shirt was both wet and dry cleanable. The result: only the red wine was removable with a normal machine wash. We sent another shirt with the same stains to a local dry cleaner to see if they could do better; sure enough, all the stains were removed.

Tips for dry cleaning

Prevention is better than cure when it comes to ensuring your garments survive a trip to the dry cleaners. Here are some tips to help you minimise the risk of damage:

• Find an experienced dry cleaner –Ìýgood fabric understanding comes from years of handling different types.
• Use a specialist dry cleaner for beadings, sequins and other garment decorations, and take notes of the discussion about the best way to clean your garment.
• Check the dry clean symbol on the care label. ÌýA “P” or “F” indicates which solvent should or may be used.
• Check your garments thoroughly before handing them over to your dry cleaner.
• Remove belts and any other detachable adornments. Identify the nature and position of stains, loose stitching or fasteners.
• Photograph expensive formal or designer wear and advise your dry cleaner. Many dry cleaners also have counter cameras to identify the number of garments handed back to the customer.
• Point out concealed buttons, as a heat press may leave a shiny imprint on the fabric if they go unnoticed by the dry cleaner.
• Find out if the dry cleaner is a member of the Drycleaning Institute of Australia. If the dry cleaner you complain about is a member, the DIA will advise you of its investigations and your options.
• Keep dry-cleaning dockets and original purchase receipts for your expensive garments and textiles as proof for any damages claim.

Dry cleaning FAQs

Dry cleaning gone wrong: case studies

ÌÇÐÄVlog readers share their dry cleaning disasters.

Ruined wedding dress -–ÌýCassie Beattie

I bought a wedding dress off eBay, it was a stunning dress, but it was second-hand. I had to have the dress altered and after that I took it to a dry cleaner in North Adelaide who are wedding dress specialists. I dropped the dress off on the Monday. I was told I could pick it up the following Thursday. I pointed out that the bead work was all over the dress not just the bodice, and I also asked them to be very careful with it because our wedding was just four weeks away.

I returned on the Thursday to be told it wasn’t done yet, come back next Tuesday. I go back next Tuesday and it turns out my dress had been severely damaged in the cleaning process, resulting in my beautiful dress being ruined. A lot of the beading had gotten caught, causing it all to pull.

The worst part of the whole experience was the staff. I was told if I produced a copy of my receipt for the dress they would give me the insurance claim forms. That the process takes between six and 10 weeks and there was nothing else they could do.

I stormed out of the shop and burst into tears. I had to find an alternative dress. I was lucky I was able to find another dress, it was nothing like the original but was still fine. When we returned from our honeymoon there were three demand notices from the dry cleaner for payment and a threat of legal action. I was appalled, and I called them and told them so. Eventually it took a letter from our lawyer threatening a lawsuit before they stopped sending me demand notices.

My insurance claim was also knocked back because it was not a “real” receipt – because I had purchased it on eBay. I took the case to the state government organisation and I received the money I had paid for the dress back but no apology.

Melted curtains –ÌýJenny Macqueen

I sent two sets of velour-backed curtains ($800+) to the dry cleaner with small discoloration spots and spoke to the dry cleaner about what we thought the spots actually were. It was decided that they were ‘probably’ mould forming from a period of wet weather. I suggested to him that if he had any doubts about doing the job, please tell me. He didn’t and suggested that dry cleaning would kill the spores if it was mould forming, so I went ahead.

I got the curtains back, hung them, and to my horror, he had melted the backs, even melted foreign material into the curtains. I rang immediately and he acted as if he didn’t know that he had damaged the curtains. He virtually told me I was not telling the truth.

I went through the normal channels, and reported the whole story to the tribunal. They contacted him and he wouldn’t pay for his damage, so we went to court where I was awarded $500 – short of the replacement value by $300.

He was not a member of the Drycleaning Institute of Australia so I had to go to court to get any compensation for his shoddy work, but still came away with less than it cost me to replace the curtains.

The curtains were two years old but in as-new condition. They certainly were not in as-new condition when they were returned. In fact, with the light behind them, they looked as if a handful of mud had been thrown at the back of each curtain. It was a long and messy business, where I was the loser for shoddy workmanship.

Stretched jacket –ÌýAdele De Rossi

About four years ago I bought a jacket. It was a very warm jacket, fluffy on the inside and suede-like on the outside. It was around $89.00, I picked it up on sale. It fitted me very well –Ìýit was not a fitted jacket, it was made to wear over winter clothing. The tag said ‘Dry clean only’ so I ended up taking it to the dry cleaners, thinking I’d clean it so I could wear it fresh and clean for the new winter season coming up.

When I picked it up from the cleaners I thought it looked bigger, but dismissed it. When I got home I tried on the jacket and it was about 20cm longer in the sleeves and 40cm extra around the waist and 20cm longer in length, I was in shock! I took it back to the dry cleaner and asked what happened to my jacket. They did not care and blamed me, as she said they did what should be done and said it was not their fault. They added that cheaper clothing should not be dry-cleaned.

Chameleon blouse – Siobhan Stewart

This involves a very expensive Nicolla Finetti blouse made of two shades of sheer aqua silk with a shiny silk neckline with detailed stitching. I wore the blouse once and someone spilt a beer down the front of it. I took it to the dry cleaners two days later and pointed out the water mark. I collected the garment a week later and, after paying for it and heading back to work, I noticed that the top had changed colour to a brown and green and the stitched neckline had shrunk and puckered. I immediately returned to the dry cleaners to report the damage.

The dry cleaner took absolutely no responsibility and told me that they had followed the cleaning instructions listed on the label, and that I would need to take it back to the shop to complain that the label was incorrect. As you can imagine, the shop also refused to take responsibility and told me that I needed to take it further with the dry cleaner. In the end I just gave up and never gave that dry cleaner any further business.

Not without my trousers – Sally Parker

I had a pair of light-coloured trousers dry cleaned at an expensive dry cleaner. Upon collection, I was informed that the machine had sprayed a fine black substance on my trousers which they couldn’t get out. They asked me to nominate a value and they sent me a cheque for $80 to replace the trousers, and they refused to allow me to take my trousers home. Even after an argument they would not give me my trousers back.

Deflated doona – Sue Burton

I’ve been going to a particular dry cleaner in Rozelle (NSW) for the last 20 years. I have trusted them completely with the most delicate and precious items, including a wardrobe of old clothes that had belonged to my mother, including a simple and now fragile wedding dress from 1941. They refused some things, and did a good job with the others.

Recently, I took my quilt [to the dry cleaners] – a top quality, German, 100% goose-down quilt, which is probably about 30 years old but still very fluffy and warm. The covering fabric was heavily stained. The stains would have been about 10 years old, but I discovered them only recently. The person who served me told me they probably wouldn’t be able to remove the stains. I said I understood that, but if they would do their best, perhaps they could at least freshen it up. After the dry cleaning, it was completely flat, lumpy and useless. The down was completely ruined.

My complaint was that I had been given no warning that this might happen; had I been warned, I would not have asked them to do it. I had trusted them for so many years, with good reason, and had no idea that there was a risk of damage.

I took the doona back and made a complaint but the owner of the shop said he’s been cleaning doonas for about 30 years and all he did was wash it, and that the damage could have been caused by dust mites. I made it clear that I was upset about was the lack of warning. He said if we warned every customer of every risk, we’d have to have a lawyer on hand all the time.

Shrunken woollens – Judy Bahar

At the end of winter I took my entire woollen clothing collection of two pairs of slacks and six jumpers to my usual, friendly dry cleaner. When I went to pick them up I noticed straight away that they were shrunk by several sizes. When I pointed it out, he said – still friendly – to leave them with him, he’ll check with his laundryman if there was a problem with the solvent. When I came back he informed me that there was nothing wrong with the solvent and there was nothing wrong with the articles, they were the same size as when I brought them in.

I asked if I could try them on there in the shop, which he agreed to. I struggled into a couple of them. He said they were fine. When I said they were very tight, he said I must have put on weight. I said that is quite possible, just as I must have also grown a considerable amount in the previous two weeks as the sleeves of the jumpers were halfway between my wrists and elbows and my slacks reached just below my calves. He told me he’d fix them.

When I returned, the items were somewhat larger than before, but still not the original size. So while I waited he steamed, stretched, steamed, stretched, steamed and stretched until he said no more can be done. The items were still small. I asked whether the insurance would pay for the accident, at which stage he became very unhappy with me. I was apparently a most difficult, most unreasonable customer and he didn’t want to see me any more.

The post Dry cleaning rights appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• The results
• Does price really matter?
• What makes tights durable?
• What does "70 denier" actually mean?
• Statement stockings
• What the experts say

We decided to put tights to the test to answer this question once and for all.Ìý

The tights test

ÌÇÐÄVlog sent two pairs of tights each from 10 well-known brands off to the Royal Melbourne Institute of TechnologyÌý() textile lab to be tested for laddering resistance. We chose a mix of popular black opaque stockings available at various retailers, including cheap pairs from Big W and Coles through to mid-range Myer products and stockings from the high-end label Wolford. All tights were 70 denier except the Wolford which were 66 denier.

How the testing works

First, a 16cm-long sample of fabric is cut from the stocking and carefully extended to fit on a frame. The sample is pierced to create a punch-hole 2mm in diameter. The fabric is then clamped and gradually stretched at a constant rate until a load of 3kg has been applied. The load at which laddering occurs is noted, and the length of the ladder, including the dimensions of the hole, is measured at the end of the test.

To determine the rankings, each pair of stockings was tested ten times and the results averaged. The stockings were then listed in order of the load at which they began laddering and the resulting hole/ladder size. Each pair of stockings was tested in the same manner.

The results

A score of 1 indicates the best performance, through to 10 as the worst. All stockings laddered quickly, but those that are ranked higher stood up to the stretch test better and had smaller ladders. The poorest performers produced larger ladders under less force.Ìý

Of those stockings that received the highest ranking, Clio Super Softs from Big W performed the best and showed the greatest durability. Wolford stockings ­– the most expensive brand – performed the worst in our test.

Product	Name	³§³¦´Ç°ù±ðÌý	Price*
	Clio Super Soft opaque tights (Big W)	1	$10 (3 pack)
	Bonds Comfy Tops opaque tights	2	$7.20
	Razzamatazz Perfectly Matte opaque tights	3	$7.20
	Mix Basic soft opaque tights (Coles)Ìý	4	$10 (3 pack)
	Voodoo Lavish opaque tights	5	$19.95
	Levante suede Matte opaque tights	6	$19.95
	Ambra opaque back-seam tight	7	$10
	Kmart opaque tights	8	$6
	Kayser Ultrafresh Treated opaque tights	9	$11.95
	Wolford Velvet Deluxe 66	10	$75

*Prices are those paid in Sydney or RRP between 11 Apr and 15 Jun 2016.

About the lab

RMIT’s Textile Testing Services is a NATA (National Association of Testing Authorities) accredited and independent laboratory providing certified assessment of textiles. They test everything from bed linen and children’s nightwear to carpets and upholstery. Although there is no industry standard for testing tights laddering, the laboratory worked with a major supplier a few years ago to develop a ladder testing method for stockings that subsequently became an internal test procedure.

Does price really matter?

Our spot test of these 10 brands shows that you don’t always get what you pay for. The results clearly show that cost doesn’t necessarily guarantee durability; some of the cheaper pairs we tested outperformed one of the most luxurious brands on the market.Ìý

Trudie Orchard, manager of RMIT’s textile testing unit, has 30-plus years’ experience testing materials. She told us: “I rated the results based on the data. We’re objective data – that’s what we’re about. We just give you the results independently under controlled laboratory conditions.”

What makes tights durable?

Hosiery is typically made with different amounts of nylon/polyamide and elastane (Lycra). “The amount of elastane (a stretchy yarn) can alter the way a product performs,” Alexis Belcher, hosiery designer for Ambra, told ÌÇÐÄVlog. “Some stockings will have the Lycra on every row and others will have it on every second.”

Lycra fusion is where the Lycra is “fused” to stop laddering, but this won’t always prevent snagging.

“The denier of the yarn in the tights is only one aspect that would impact on the laddering results – knit construction and finish also plays a part in the performance,” says Orchard.

ÌÇÐÄVlog contacted Wolford, to ask what differentiates Wolford from other products on the market given the price point, but we didn’t get a response.Ìý

What does “70 denier” actually mean?

A denier is a unit of measurement that describes the fineness of yarn or thread based on the weight of the individual fibres. A single strand of silk is around one denier. So the higher the number on the packet, the thicker (and more opaque) the tights are.

Statement stockings

We asked Myer’s hosiery and socks buyer Sarah Yeates what styles are on trend this winter.

“Opaques obviously see uplift in the winter season with key styles across all brands being 40 denier, 70 denier, and 120 denier,” Yeates told ÌÇÐÄVlog.

“Trend-wise, we are seeing great reads on our sheers category in the patterns – nude or black sheer hosiery with a pin dot, floral, diamond, [or] baroque pattern, for example. Fashion sheers are definitely making a resurgence!”

What the experts say

When it comes to choosing the right pair of tights for you, stylist Sarah Donges from lists the main criteria to look for:

Fit

Use the guide on the back to choose the correct size for you. ‘One size fits all’ is for woman of an average height (around 160cm);Ìýif you tend towards the tall or petite, you’re unlikely to get a comfortable fit.Ìý

Reinforced toe

This will help your stockings last longer, avoiding laddering from holes formed where your toes rub against the inside of your shoes.

Control top

A control top provides extra support around the stomach area, and in some brands, around the bottom and thighs as well. A lot of cheaper brands don’t have this.

Finally, to make your stockings last longer, Donges says to wash them in a lingerie bag. “This will not only save them from wrapping around all your washing and over-stretching them, it will also save extra lint that they may pick up.”Ìý

The post Tights and stockings ladder test appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

Today, in stark contrast to a number of other developed countries, little has changed for the better in Australia when it comes to regulating the chemicals in imported textiles, clothing and footwear (TCF). And with more than 90% of the apparel found in our stores imported – and an obsession with what’s been nicknamed “fast fashion” – Australian retailers are under pressure to put more product on the shelves, more often. The downside of this demand, many in the textiles industry believe, is product safety – with the safe use of chemicals a particular concern.

Australian recall

In March 2014, the Australian Competition and Consumer Commission (ACCC) from Rivers Australia, one style of kids’ jeans and one style of denim shorts from Just Jeans, and a pillow case from Pillow Talk, which may have contained potentially harmful azo dyes.

Independent Senator for South Australia Nick Xenophon has called on the ACCC to block imports of dangerous chemicals in clothing following the recall. The senator also called for an urgent audit of garment and bedding imports, saying, “It’s astonishing that there appear to be no laws or rules in place to restrict the importation of products containing azo dyes.”

Who’s looking out for us?

Regulation of the chemicals in imported textiles sits with the ACCC. Ìýis the agency responsible for the expert risk assessment and regulation of industrial chemicals.

The ACCC says it has a number of active programs aimed at identifying and assessing emerging hazards (including chemical hazards), which include expanded consumer protection provisions and a mandatory injury-reporting regime that requires suppliers to report product-related incidents where a death or serious illness/injury has occurred.

ACCC spokesperson Brent Rebecca says the ACCC’s analysis of complaints and injury reports has found a very low number of alleged injuries associated with TCF.

How does Australia compare?

Product safety is a hot legislative topic in other countries, but so far it hasn’t been in Australia. Product safety regulations here are narrow compared with other countries, particularly those in Europe, which have had rigorous product safety legislation regulating the use of harmful chemical substances since the mid-1990s.

The European Union legislation (called – Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals) now requires all TCF brands and retailers selling into the EU market to manage more than 300,000 harmful substances in their products. This program also sets maximum limits for TCF products that come into contact with human skin.

In Australia, NICNAS only lists about 50,000 chemical substances and limits its role to notification and assessment of the use of these chemicals. There are also no legally prescribed limits on the use of any of these chemicals in textiles – it might be impossible to import some of these chemicals to use in Australia, but there’s no problem having the very same chemicals arrive in an order of T-shirts from overseas.

Andreas Schimkus, former senior industry adviser to the Council of Textile and Fashion Industries of Australia’s (), spent four years in Hong Kong supplying footwear to the EU market and says he was shocked by the lack of active regulation in the Australian market when he first arrived here.

“Products that are made in China for the Australian market could not even be sent back to China, as many of them would not meet the Chinese product safety standards but are acceptable here.”

Dr Mariann Lloyd-Smith, senior adviser to the and (the international public interest NGO on harmful substances), says she has heard about a number of incidents relating to clothing and shoes that can be the result of everything from DMF, formaldehyde and dyes.

Schimkus tells us that the most dangerous way for a toxin to enter the body is not through the digestive system, but through the skin.

“We have strong regulation and monitoring of imported food but we’re not even thinking about regulating the levels of chemicals being used in clothing processes such as fabric treatments, dyes and printing or in the creation of synthetic fibres derived from petroleum-based feed stocks.”

And although consumer reactions to clothing and footwear aren’t rife, there are industry concerns that an issue that shouldn’t exist at all, is growing.

Where to next?

According to the ACCC, suppliers of consumer goods are responsible for ensuring they comply with the law and are fit for purpose and safe use. They are obliged to report to the ACCC any serious injuries associated with the use of their products. This enables action to be taken to protect consumers where unsafe goods are identified. However, members of the TFIA project safety group say this isn’t enough and that change is required.

Lloyd-Smith believes there needs to be a clear regulatory system that restricts or bans the use of many of the most hazardous chemicals (starting with the industrial ones banned elsewhere) and limits imports of products treated with them.

“Unless the regulations are there, companies chasing profits will not move,” she says.

Chemicals of concern

Most Australians consumers are unaware of the potential toxicity to be found in TCF products. The experts we spoke to say the EU approach stands out as the model other countries are adopting to ensure consumers are protected. From an extensive list of restricted substances, there are “substances of very high concern” that the EU regulates more closely as potentially harmful to human health, including:

• Chromium VI which is used on leather and new wool and can cause or exacerbate contact dermatitis
• DMF which is used to prevent mould and moisture in leather goods and may cause extensive, pronounced eczema that is difficult to treat
• phthalates which are used in PVC for shoes and rainwear and suspected of being carcinogenic and may disturb the hormone system
• alkphenols which are used for textile and leather production and are strong disruptors of the human endocrine system and environmentally toxic
• dispersion dyes which can cause allergy and rashes.

Other chemicals of concern include:

• azo dyes, often used in the colouring process for textiles and leather products. Recently it has been recognised that some azo colouring agents may form amines (breakdown products) that may have carcinogenic and mutagenic (changing genetic material) properties. These are on the EU REACH restricted list.
• chlorinated phenols (PCP, TeCP, TriCP) used in the processing of textiles. Contact with PCP (particularly in the form of vapour) can irritate the skin, eyes and mouth. Long-term exposure to low levels can cause damage to the liver, kidneys, blood and nervous system. Exposure to PCP is also associated with carcinogenic, renal and neurological effects.
• formaldehyde which is used to “finish” fabric. Exposure to low levels irritates the eyes, nose, throat and can cause allergies affecting the skin and lungs. Higher exposure can cause throat spasms and build-up of fluid in the lungs, leading to death. Contact can also cause severe eye and skin burns with permanent damage. It is classified as a potential carcinogen.

How are these chemicals disposed?

In Australia, almost 100% of textile waste goes into landfill – even if it makes a quick detour via charities there are concerns potentially harmful substances in dumped textiles may leach into the environment.

“We regularly see examples where local traders buy 500 T-shirts in China [sell 350 shirts] and dump the remaining 150 pieces, simply because it’s cheaper,” says Andrew Mills, managing director of textiles company Mokum Textiles.

Emer Diviney, former manager of , argues that with the current regulation, Australia is a fertile ground for dumping substandard product at incredibly low prices. However, the ACCC says it has not uncovered any evidence of dumping unsafe TCF products onto our market.

“There is also no injury data that supports the view that TCF articles available in Australia are less safe than in other markets,” says ACCC spokesperson Brent Rebecca.

DMF in chairs and shoes

One chemical of concern commonly used in Australia is dimethyl fumarate (DMF), which is used to prevent mould and moisture in leather goods and can be found in all kinds of leather goods – from furniture to school shoes – usually in the form of a small sachet.

DMF has been found to be an allergic sensitiser at very low concentrations, causing extensive, pronounced eczema that is difficult to treat. In the EU, the use of DMF for consumer products is banned, including in imported products.

DMF gained notoriety overseas due to the so-called “poison chair” incident. A Chinese furniture manufacturer produced sofas with DMF sachets inside to inhibit mould while they were in storage or transport.

In the UK, sofas containing the chemical caused severe injuries to more than 400 people, including 55 small children. By 2010, several retailers were ordered to pay £20m to those who received chemical burns.

Yet in Australia, imported products containing DMF aren’t monitored at all.

To highlight this risk, the product safety group headed up by TFIA recently bought 13 pairs of shoes from a department store in Melbourne and sent them for testing for DMF at the CSIRO.

Three pairs contained levels far higher than what’s considered acceptable. One of these pairs was a popular brand of children’s school shoes. According to Schimkus, this small sample shows how common the problem is.

“It’s not like we bought hundreds of pairs of shoes – we went out in one day and bought a small sample and the results speak for themselves.”

“This isn’t an acceptable outcome,” adds Lloyd-Smith. “This testing is a real alarm bell.”

What you can do

Our experts suggest that you:

• wash any new clothes twice before wearing, although washing won’t remove certain types of chemicals
• shop for natural fibres, cotton, linen and wool, particularly for children
• look for organic cottons, as well as natural and vegetable dyes
• avoid products labelled stain- or water-resistant unless the manufacturer provides details of the chemicals or processes used.

If you do have concerns about a reaction or an injury from clothing or footwear, you can Ìýwith the ACCC on their website or on 1300 303 609.

Case studies

Shoes that burned

A Victorian woman bought a pair of canvas and rubber ballet-style shoes from a large shopping centre in Melbourne. After she wore them in the rain she developed what appeared to be chemical burns on her feet where the shoes had made contact.

After being put in contact with Monash University she was shown photos of other people who’d had a similar reaction to the same brand of shoes.

It’s believed the shoes were treated with a chemical that is used as a fungicide and rubber accelerator – which was easily released when the shoes got wet.

Hives all over

A Sydney mum bought a new school T-shirt for her 10-year-old son from the school uniform shop. He put it on and headed off to school.

She says that by early afternoon he had a lump on his neck, and not long after that his entire back was covered in hives.

By the time he arrived home in the evening his mother was shocked to discover he had hives all over his body – what she describes as “clumps and welts” – and some were as big as his hand.

He and his mother believe they were directly caused by wearing the new shirt without washing it first.

A ÌÇÐÄVlog member’s experience

Lynette, a long time ÌÇÐÄVlog member, contacted us after buying a pair of new bowling shoes recently. She says after wearing them for just a few hours she was in great discomfort and had trouble walking. She says that her feet felt like they were burning and that they looked that way when she took the shoes off. She says she hasn’t worn the shoes again and that her feet are still recovering.

Lynette contacted the supplier and was told they hadn’t heard of any similar issues with the shoes. Since then she has been at a loss as to what to do. After reading this article she has now contacted the ACCC to lodge a complaint.

The post Chemicals in clothing appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• The shape we're in
• Size discrepancies
• What about men?
• Where to now?
• Size 10, 12, 14 – all within an hour

While this may suit the designers, who can manipulate sizing to give an instant “feel-good” factor or deter the “wrong” body shapes, consumers usually have to try a range of sizes to find the right fit.

The fashion industry experts ÌÇÐÄVlog spoke to all agreed that as part of an Australian industry worth billions in manufacturing, retailing and wholesaling, sizing irregularity is one of the major issues.

The shape we’re in

The most recent Australian clothing standard for adult men and women was withdrawn in 2007 as it was considered no longer relevant. Established in 1959, the standard was based on data from a 1926 study of women conducted by underwear manufacturer Berlei and some US Department of Commerce Standards. After 1970, several revisions were made to the standard for women using data provided by the Australian Women’s Weekly, when 11,455 female readers measured themselves and posted in the results, the last revision taking place in 1975.

Almost 40 years later it’s not surprising to learn those measurements are no longer considered relevant. It’s no secret that Australians today are bigger than they used to be. And research from the US reveals that the sedentary Western body may be changing shape, with waists getting thicker in both sexes. Thanks to multiculturalism, there’s also a wider range of body shapes than back in the 1920s. Despite these studies and abundant anecdotal evidence, there is still no definitive data to show just what kind of shape we are in today.

It’s a different story overseas, where government and sectors of the clothing industry have conducted large-scale body-shape surveys in the UK, Spain, France, China, Japan, the US and Germany. This data has been used to help clothing manufacturers improve fit and identify new markets. It’s also been used to develop better-fitting uniforms and safety wear, and improve ergonomics in products ranging from cars to seating on public transport.

Size discrepancies

In any woman’s wardrobe it’s not unusual to find an assortment of sizes, ranging from 10 to 16. For others, the size range of clothes available in stores might not fit them at all. A study conducted by the University of South Australia and SHARP Dummies in 2002 found that about half the people surveyed said they couldn’t buy “regular”-sized clothing as it didn’t fit their body shape, and it seems things haven’t improved since.Ìý

The problem goes right back to the source. Alana Clifton-Cunningham, lecturer in fashion design at the University of Technology, Sydney, says the lack of a national sizing standard means the university has had to develop its own rough standard for students to use as a guide, and admits it seems more generous than what’s found in mainstream stores. She also says it can take time to get students to understand the difference between the design and look of the garment and the actual wearability of the clothes.

Apart from the lack of standardised sizes, there are a few other reasons why there is such a difference between brands.

Vanity sizing

Part of the problem is our country’s growing waistline, which has changed from the tapered and leaner pear shape of the 1920s to the more generous-sized woman today. Rather than keeping sizes consistent, retailers sensitive to the delicate issues around weight and self-image have simply snuck a few centimetres into their sizing. Nicknamed “vanity sizing”, the rationale is that the customer will feel so good about suddenly fitting into a size 10 they will snap it up immediately.

Some years ago, department store Myer inflated the measurements of its sizes 8, 10, 12 and 14 by several centimetres, to represent what it said was a better fit for customers. Country Road is legendary for making the average size-12 customer miraculously fit a size 10. Youth fashion chain store Sportsgirl recently acknowledged the heavier population, announcing it would be adding some size-16 garments to its collection because of market demand.

The rise of size 0

The other, more sinister end of the scale is impossibly small sizing that controls who can wear what. With catwalk models averaging size 6-8, as well as new tiny sizing categories in the US such as sizes 00 and 0 (sizes 4 and 6 in Australia), the battle for body image extends across the shopping malls throughout the country.

Many of the industry experts ÌÇÐÄVlog spoke to say some designers have an idealised type of customer in mind, and that there is real reluctance to have their clothes made in larger sizes. Even if they don’t volunteer this publicly, the clothes on the rack speak volumes with tiny sizes de rigueur, especially among the higher-end designer labels.

Some openly admit the trend. Karl Lagerfeld brazenly claimed he designs clothes for ”slender and slim people” when discussing the range he developed for European chain store H&M, while Australian designer Wayne Cooper is reported as having criticised the super-slim catwalk models at Australian Fashion Week for being “porky”. While he said the comments were made in jest, the cut of his clothes are well-known for being small. Melbourne designer Bettina Liano is on record saying she makes size-14 clothes but they ”just don’t sell”.

Kellock believes this policy has major implications for women’s self-esteem, especially the impressionable young. ”Imagine a young woman walking into a store looking for a blouse. She rummages around, finally tries one and it doesn’t fit. It’s too small and there’s nothing else. It sends a negative message likely to have long-term impact. She is going to think, ‘I’m not wanted here, and I’m not good enough’.”

For older shoppers, the effect can be the same. works as a personal stylist to a wide range of clients, many of whom are women in their late 30s or 40s who love fashion and have a lot of money to spend, but hate shopping. ”They can be completely frustrated that they can never find anything that fits them. Several of my clients have told me if they try one or two pieces on in a store and they don’t fit into them, they just give up.”

Quality control

A less common reason may just be manufacturing error. Jo-Ann Kellock, former executive director of the Council of Textile and Fashion Industries Australia (TFIA ), says there are often inconsistencies within brands and within sizes due to a lack of quality control. Thanks to mass manufacturing offshore there are issues around mislabelling, mistakes during overlocking and where garments are cut in huge quantities at one time – even a slip of just a few millimetres when cutting can mean a pile of size-12 garments destined for the same store can end up all different sizes.

What about men?

Most of the industry contacts ÌÇÐÄVlog spoke to said men, in general, have it a little easier. In most cases men’s garments are named by a measurement, so if a pair of trousers is labelled 38 inches, it’s likely they will actually be 38 inches at the waist. However plenty of men’s clothing is starting to carry representation sizing such as small, medium and large labels or 1, 2 and 3, and disparity between sizes is more common.

ÌÇÐÄVlog readers we spoke to complained about lack of length in trousers and sleeves, as well as an overall bad fit, but the consensus is the differences aren’t as extreme as in women’s clothes.

Where to now?

While the experts ÌÇÐÄVlog spoke to agree a mandatory sizing standard isn’t the answer, better information about sizing is needed. The latest ABS figures show 68% of adult men and 55% of adult women are overweight or obese (using the body mass index).

It makes sense that a national sizing survey similar to those conducted overseas would allow manufacturers to better understand the modern body shapes of consumers. It could empower manufacturers to provide better-fitting, flattering and more comfortable clothing – a win-win situation for both the industry and consumer.

Size 10, 12, 14 – all within an hour

ÌÇÐÄVlog journalist drops two dress sizes in an hour

To test just how much difference there can be between clothing sizes, I head to Sydney’s Pitt Street Mall. My mission? To buy a straight black skirt. Sounds easy. Less easy was working out what size I was.

First stop was , and in their range I fit perfectly into a size 14 skirt. Deciding I must be a 14, I head a few doors down to Ìýand grab a 14 in their range. However, when I try it on it almost falls off, so I try a 12, which is also too loose, before finally zipping up a perfect-fitting 10.

Feeling good, I set off for , where their pencil skirts are labelled ”small”, ”medium” and ”large”. The small doesn’t quite do up but the medium fits nicely. Later, the size 12 skirt at Witchery proves too small and the 14 too big, so I assume that makes me a 13 – but they don’t make half-sizes.

In the department stores, the body bamboozling continues. According to , I’m a 10 but thinks I’m a 14. splits the difference, putting me in a 12. It’s a self-esteem rollercoaster as I teeter between feeling petite and plus size, depending on who’s dressing me.

I then sample a few higher-end Australian designers.

pegs me as a ”3” in her dress range, which according to the sales assistant is a ”large 12” or ”small 14”, whatever that means. Australian designers don’t even bother with Australian sizing on some of their labels, with one of their jackets informing me it’s a European size 40 and US 6.

Feeling despondent, I head for the door but decide to make a stop at on the way home and try on one more skirt, the best fit being a 10. The confusion continues…

pegs me as a ”3” in her dress range, which according to the sales assistant is a ”large 12” or ”small 14”, whatever that means. Australian designers don’t even bother with Australian sizing on some of their labels, with one of their jackets informing me it’s a European size 40 and US 6.

Feeling despondent, I head for the door but decide to make a stop at on the way home and try on one more skirt, the best fit being a 10. The confusion continues…

The post The truth about clothing sizes appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• Made in Australia
• Buying ethically made clothes
• The story behind the garment
• The real cost of clothing
• Where do our clothes come from?
• Codes of conduct
• What to look for in a brand
• Clothing brands in the spotlight

Sweatshops aren’t exclusive to low-wage countries. In fact, it’s likely any clothes you wear with a label saying “Made in Australia” were made by an outworker in a backyard sweatshop, perhaps not far from where you live or work.

Made in Australia

Many outworkers are paid below-award wages according to the (TCFUA) – often about $7 an hour and, in some cases, as little as $4. That’s well below the legal minimum of $17.49 an hour wage for a machinist. Many will work 12- to 15-hour days, seven days a week to make ends meet, says TCFUA national secretary Michele O’Neil.

Such home-based work accounts for the majority of Australian garment manufacturing, spanning high-end fashion to school uniforms. Well-known brands flouting Australian labour laws are common, says O’Neil. “We find them every day.”

The sourcing network for garments is complicated: brands outsource to factories, which outsource yet again. A textile order can be passed down through three different contractors before ending up with an outworker. And knowledge of supply chains among brands and retailers is often poor, so outworkers are hidden at the bottom of the supply chain.

Ethical accreditation

(ECA) works to combat the issue of outworkers by providing ethical accreditation for Australian-made clothing. ECA accreditation guarantees that brands obey the law, which means all workers throughout the supply chain receive fair wages and decent working conditions. To receive accreditation, brands’ entire supply chains are mapped, including the hidden workforce, a process which often uncovers parts of the supply chain that even the brands weren’t aware of.

Cutting corners

The TCFUA suspects one Australian women’s fashion label, Morrison Clothing, has at times disregarded labour laws. Two outworkers in Morrison’s supply chain told ÌÇÐÄVlog they get paid an average of $8 an hour. They said they were paid $3.00–$3.50 per shirt for a recent order, each taking about 30 minutes to make.

Elizabeth Macpherson, an organiser at the TCFUA, says the union was investigating the company at the time of publication and knew of about 20 outworkers in Morrison’s supply chain who aren’t receiving the correct wages.

Morrison director Richard Poulson said the allegation is “absolutely incorrect. I believe we pay well above what the award would be. We’re certainly not trying to strip margins. They [suppliers] quote – we pay them what they want.”

However, brands manufacturing in Australia are legally responsible for their entire supply chain so the amount that labels pay suppliers has to take into account how much it will cost to make the item of clothing using fairly paid labour.

Buying ethically made clothes

For Australian consumers wanting to shop ethically, the first port of call is the price tag, says Paula Rogers, an international fashion supply chain consultant. “If you go and buy a $3 T-shirt, common sense would say someone hasn’t been paid a whole pile to make it.”

Although studies suggest a majority of consumers would be willing to pay more for ethically produced clothes, brands won’t change without commercial incentive. “They’re in business, not in social enterprise,” says Rogers.

Buying ethically made clothes: a checklist

• Don’t buy clothes at rock-bottom prices. Think about how much work has gone into the garment – is the price tag fair?
• Write to your favourite brands and ask them questions via social media (see belowÌýfor what to ask).
• Ask sales assistants for details.
• Use ethical report cards to learn about brands, such as the , and

Shop with certified brands

• certifies cut, make and trim for Australian-made clothes. It lists 85 accredited brands including Cue, Jets swimwear, Nobody Denim, RM Williams, Collette Dinnigan and Carla Zampatti.
• certifies the supply chain for cotton production. Accredited brands include Etiko, 3Fish, Audrey Blue, Nudie Jeans Co, RREPP.
• certifies organic textiles and ethical labour conditions in textile manufacturing.

The story behind the garment

When you’re buying clothes made overseas, it’s all but impossible to discover each step of the journey your clothes have taken. The clothing brands themselves can rarely trace the journey from fibre production through to textile and garment manufacture.

A recent report into clothing supply chains, the from found:

• 61% of companies didn’t know where their garments were made
• 76% didn’t know where their fabric was woven, knitted or dyed
• 93% didn’t know the origins of the raw fibre.

As Australian garment manufacturing has moved offshore, there’s been a shift in responsibility. A longer supply chain means brands may not know about safety issues and poor working conditions. Russell Mullane, CFO and group logistics manager of Sussan Group, which owns Sussan, Sportsgirl and Suzanne Grae, told ÌÇÐÄVlog that although he’s confident the company is acting ethically by conducting factory audits, it can’t monitor every link in the supply chain continuously. “We live in Australia and it’s happening way up yonder. How can we really know?”

But ethical clothing campaigners are adamant companies should be responsible for their entire supply chain. They say poor working conditions are a result of companies’ sourcing practices that put pressure on suppliers to cut prices further down the line.

The real cost of clothing

Brands source clothing by bargaining with suppliers on price. This price usually equates to 10–20% of the retail price and includes everything involved in the garment’s production up to the point of shipping, including fabric, manufacturing and middlemen’s profits. Macquarie Bank research estimates such production costs for a pair of jeans retailing for $US109 to be $US12.

While the labour costs involved with a garment are only a small part of the total cost of sourcing the product, many brands still seek to cut costs at this level, shifting their production to Bangladesh or the western provinces of China.

Where do our clothes come from?

Based on value, 92% of clothes sold in Australia are imported, according to the Council of Textiles and Fashion Industries of Australia. While China still dominates the textiles market for imported clothes, imports from low-cost countries such as Bangladesh and Cambodia have been increasing at a rapid pace.

Codes of conduct

Sweatshops, characterised by exploitative wages, excessive work hours and unsafe working conditions, are widespread throughout Asia. “Unfortunately, that’s the norm,” says labour rights advocacy coordinator Daisy Gardener.

But following the Bangladesh factory collapse in April 2013, consumer concern has resulted in some steps in the right direction. There’s been a shift in the ethics of the industry over the past six to 12 months, says Paula Rogers, an international fashion supply chain consultant. “I’ve never seen retailers want the information [about their suppliers] so much. They’d never asked for codes of conduct before,” she says.

Unfortunately, a code of conduct doesn’t necessarily guarantee better conditions for garment workers. In 2011, Spanish fashion brand Zara was found to be making clothes in a Brazilian sweatshop, despite having a code covering key labour conventions. One of Zara’s factories had subcontracted out the work without its knowledge.

Flawed audits

Without an independent regulatory regimen protecting workers’ rights globally, companies have devised their own processes for workplace inspections, resulting in an $80bn market for corporate social responsibility programs.

Unfortunately, the inspections don’t always for workers. For example, prior to the collapse of the Rana Plaza building in Bangladesh, two of the factories inside it had been audited but safety risks had not been .

Often audits are announced in advance and auditors may lack the expertise to do the job credibly. While independent audits can identify issues at factories, they aren’t always helpful in resolving them, as MÃ¥ns Carlsson-Sweeny, an analyst at AMP Capital, has pointed out. Audit results are usually kept secret, so the problems may never be fixed.

Some brands have been working to improve the transparency of their auditing by disclosing factory locations for third-party auditors. In 2005, became the first brand to publish a list of its suppliers, and others such as Levi’s, Puma and H&M followed. So far, is the only Australian retailer to disclose any of its suppliers, and Target has to do so .

What to look for in a brand

• Does the company have an ethical sourcing code? Is it public?
• Does the code cover important International Labour Organization : living wage, no forced or child labour, freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining, safe and hygienic working conditions, working hours are not excessive, no discrimination, regular employment is provided and no harsh or inhumane treatment is allowed.
• Does it audit its factories? How often? Are the audits independent, unannounced and are results made public?
• Is it part of a multi-stakeholder ethical scheme?
• Is it aware of its fibre and textiles supply chain?
• Are its factory locations public?

Clothing brands in the spotlight

ÌÇÐÄVlog contacted Australia’s four biggest clothing retailers as well as four discount retailers to ask about their sourcing practices.

Country Road, Trenery, Witchery, Mimco

• Made in:ÌýChina, India, Vietnam, Pakistan, Thailand, Indonesia, Turkey.
• Ethical sourcing code?ÌýYes (not public).
• Wage commitment:ÌýLiving wage.
• Supply chain traceability:ÌýKnows all its primary suppliers, which must ensure subcontractors comply with the code of conduct. Says it’s difficult to trace fibre and textile production as it’s traded on an open market.
• Publishes factory details?ÌýNo.
• Audits:ÌýRegular announced social compliance audits are conducted by an accredited third-party auditing company.

Millers, Katies, Autograph, City Chic, Crossroads and Rivers (as of November 2013)

• Made in:ÌýChina, Bangladesh and India.
• Ethical sourcing code?ÌýNothing publicly available.
• Wage commitment:ÌýMinimum wage.
• Supply chain traceability:ÌýAll cut, make and trim (including subcontractors) factories are known. Fibre sourcing and textile production is managed by the factory.
• Publishes factory details?ÌýNo, but has signed theÌý Accord.
• Audits:ÌýConducts announced audits. Plans to start unannounced audits this year.

Sportsgirl, Suzanne Grae, Sussan

• Made in: China and Vietnam.
• Ethical sourcing code? Yes (not public).
• Wage commitment: Minimum wage. Says all audited factories pay above the minimum.
• Supply chain traceability: Doesn’t know factories of its wholesalers. Textiles are sourced through mills suggested by agents.
• Publishes factory details? No.
• Audits: Yearly announced audits of all factories are conducted by an independent auditing company. Audit information is not made public.

Just Jeans, Jay Jays, Jacqui E, Peter Alexander, Portmans and Dotti

• Made in: Bangladesh. Would not comment on other source countries.
• Ethical sourcing code? Nothing publicly available.
• Wage commitment: None.
• Supply chain traceability: No comment made.
• Publishes factory details? No. Has not signed the Accord.
• Audits: Prior to doing business in a factory, an independent auditor checks the factory complies with local laws and Just Group principles.

Targets home brands: Essentials, Modernista, Hot Options, MODA, Bellecurve, Adamsville, MAXX

• Made in: Bangladesh. Would not specify any other countries where it manufactures.
• Ethical sourcing code? Yes.
• Wage commitment: Minimum wage.
• Supply chain traceability: No comment made.
• Publishes factory details? Has committed to publish and has signed the Accord.
• Audits: Conducts independent regular scheduled and unannounced factory audits throughout the year.

Kmart’s home brand

• Made in: Bangladesh. Would not comment on where else it sources clothes.
• Ethical sourcing code? Yes.
• Wage commitment: Minimum wage.
• Supply chain traceability: No comment made.
• Publishes factory details? Has published Bangladeshi factories and has committed to publish all its factories. Has signed the Accord.
• Audits: Mainly conducts announced audit every six, 12 or 24 months.

Blacksmith, Match it, Pink Sugar, Tweed River, Dymples, Joe and Co, Wave Zone

• Made in: Bangladesh. Would not comment on where it manufactures.
• Ethical sourcing code? Yes.
• Wage commitment: Living wage.
• Supply chain traceability: No comment made.
• Publishes factory details? No, but has signed the Accord.
• Audits: No comment made.
• Made in: Bangladesh. Would not comment on where it manufactures.
• Ethical sourcing code? Yes.
• Wage commitment: Living wage.
• Supply chain traceability: No comment made.
• Publishes factory details? No. Has not signed the Accord.
• Audits: No comment made.

What about Myer and David Jones?

As well as stocking other brands, Myer and David Jones have their own. In Baptist World Aid’s Australian Fashion Report, which ranks companies on ethical sourcing policies, transparency and traceability, monitoring and training, and worker rights, neither scored favourably. In this A-F rating system, Myer scored a D+ and DJs an F.

Living wage vs minimum wage

Many ethical sourcing policies have provisions for the legal minimum wage, however this is often not enough to meet the costs of basic living. A living wage is considered to meet basic costs such as food, water, shelter, clothing, energy and transport.

The Accord

Companies signatory to the must supply their factory locations so independent inspectors can audit them. They must also provide funds for safety improvements.

Made in: China, Bangladesh and India. Ethical sourcing code? Nothing publicly available. Wage commitment: Minimum wage. Supply chain traceability: All cut, make and trim (including subcontractors) factories are known. Fibre sourcing and textile production is managed by the factory. Publishes factory details? No, but has signed the Accord. Audits: Conducts announced audits. Plans to start unannounced audits this year.

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