On this page:

• Types of electric bikes
• What is an electric trike (e-trike)?
• Buying an e-trike online (Progear E-Free E-trike)
• Buying an e-trike from a bike shop (Eunorau New Trike)
• Is an e-trike more stable than an e-bike?

Three wheels may deliver better balance to those who struggle to ride a regular bicycle at low speeds, but our tester and bike-fitting professional both say that an e-trike is actually more prone to tipping over unless you’re going dead straight, on flat terrain or at walking or jogging pace.

The e-trikes we tested were not very easy to handle and often exhibited too much imbalance on turns and uneven ground. While they may be easier to sit on and manoeuvre at low speeds, they’re not suitable for the elderly or the frail without a lot of guidance and practice.

Types of electric bikes

E-bikes come in many different sizes and shapes, from mountain e-bikes for cross country adventure riding to hybrid e-bikes for a bit of off-roading and commuting.

Cargo bikes also have some ardent fans and are a popular choice for those looking for a car-replacement option, with loads of storage in the front or rear storage box, trailer and/or pannier mounts. Some may even be able to carry a couple of small children in compatible child seats.

However, all these e-bikes require a certain level of balance and control and they may not be suitable for those who are either not confident or capable in guiding a two-wheeler through traffic or a bike path. ÌÇÐÄVlog experts have tested over 30 electric bikes in our labs and on the road to help you find the best performers that suit your budget. We consider factors such as ride comfort, handling, turning and low-speed performance and battery use (view full electric bike reviews).

What is an electric trike (e-trike)?

Promoted as a stable solution for people who aren’t able to ride a regular e-bike, an e-trike has three-wheels for added stability as well as the option for storage.

Pros:

• Three wheels allow the rider to sit comfortably on the bike when stationary without having to balance.
• Manoeuvrability at low speeds or turning when starting out is very easy with the ability to almost turn a full circle.
• Very good storage options with most e-trikes including a large rear cargo area which is ideal for grocery shopping.

Cons:

• The three-wheel setup isn’t as stable as an e-bike at speed or when dealing with bumps and rough terrain.
• Locking up the e-trike when travelling is difficult and most are not really compatible with public bike racks (they take up three bike spots).
• New users or those who have not ridden a bike for a long period may find it difficult to use an e-trike without some guidance.

Electric trikes are of course available to buy both instore and online. ÌÇÐÄVlog experts advise against purchasing one online if you don’t have a bike professional to help you assemble the bike at home. This is because assembling an e-trike can be much more complex than assembling an e-bike.Ìý

We put a couple of e-trikes to the test and assessed their performance on the road, as well as looking into a couple of different purchasing options to investigate whether you should get some proper guidance before putting your pedal to the metal.

Buying an e-trike online (Progear E-Free E-trike)

The first e-trike we rode was a product from a brand called Progear, which was ordered through an online marketplace. However, the same model (Progear E-Free E-Trike) can be easily found and purchased on other marketplace stores, at Bunnings or the Progear online store.

This e-trike arrived in a few pieces and we had to put it together ourselves; this included attaching the frame (it was in two pieces), the handlebars, saddle, pedals, wheels, brakes, electrical components, mudguards, and front reflector. Putting it together took a lot of effort and required two people to reduce frustration and stress.

The Progear E-Trike is a relatively inexpensive product aimed at those looking for a bargain. However, the product proved to be too cheap to be good value, with very low-end components.

After our tester Elias assembled the e-trike according to the supplied instructions – as well as referring to supplemental instructions online – we had the trike assessed by a qualified bicycle mechanic, a luxury not available to most people ordering this product online.

Unfortunately, the verdict from the professional bike mechanic was that the Progear e-trike was not safe enough to ride. Due to a design flaw, only one rear wheel propels the e-trike when pedalling, so it always felt like it was pulling towards one direction, and it was the same when braking as it made the trike head offline when slowing down.

Buying an e-trike from a bike shop (Eunorau New Trike)

The most important benefit of buying any e-bike from a local store is that you can approach a real person if, or when, something goes wrong soon after purchase. There is also peace of mind in knowing you have someone to deal with over the life of your e-bike ownership.

We bought the Eunorau New Trike fully assembled from a bike shop (check out au.eunoroau-ebike.com for a local dealer), and this trike was a better product and more closely delivered what we expected from an electric trike. The e-trike felt more comfortable thanks to its thicker wheels and wider seat and back rest. The braking was better thanks to having two rear brakes and all disc brakes. Our on-site bike professional confirmed that it was an overall better quality in terms of its build as well as the general setup for brakes and wheels

However, as with the Progear bike, we experienced the same sensations of veering to one side along straight stretches of road, and tipping while taking corners. But in this case, the smaller, but fatter 20-inch wheels helped provide a more stable ride overall compared to the Progear e-trike, which has thinner 24-inch wheels.

The bottom line is, e-trikes are not something we can recommend for those who have mobility or balance issues without guidance from bike professionals and a caveat that they should only be used on flat terrain and at low speeds. We especially don’t recommend buying one online from a marketplace, which then has to be assembled by the user. If you are going to buy an e-trike, then you should buy from a reputable bike shop and make sure the staff properly explain how to get the best use out of it.

Is an e-trike more stable than an e-bike?

The adage ‘just like riding a bike’ generally holds true when it comes to  e-bikes. But for those who have never ridden a tricycle (battery assisted or otherwise), some guidance by an experienced trike rider on steering, how to deal with unstable terrain and braking suddenly would be recommended.

In general, e-trikes are more stable at low speeds, while e-bikes are more stable at high speeds or on uneven terrain. Here’s a breakdown on which is the most stable option in different riding situations.

• Sitting on the bike in a stationary position (waiting at a traffic light or simply having a rest on the bike) – e-trike
• Riding slowly (around 10–15km) on a straight or gently turning bike path – e-trike
• Riding at the higher speeds available with assistance (25km or faster) when going downhill or pedalling hard – e-bike
• Turning suddenly at any speed above a fast walk or on unstable terrain – e-bike
• Riding in a busy area or an area where there is limited width for traffic on the road or a bike path – e-bike

The post Considering an e-trike? We look at how they compare to electric bikes appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

It’s not just about the money though: cars can cramp your style in other ways. There’s the hassle of finding parking, sitting in traffic during peak hour and, for some people, concerns about the environmental impact of their car.

An electric bike can free you from these woes: you can sail straight past banked-up traffic, parking is a cinch, running costs are significantly cheaper, and your carbon footprint will be much smaller.

Whether you’re e-bike curious or already a dedicated e-cycler, you might be wondering if you could ditch your car completely and just stick to your electric treadly.

Can you replace your car with an electric bike?

From personal experience, yes.

I sold my car and bought a long-tail cargo e-bike back in 2018, and I can tell you that it is definitely possible – but it’s admittedly not for everyone.Ìý

It works for my lifestyle: I work from home, the supermarket is close by, I’m a confident rider, and I hate the gym so it’s a great way to get some exercise.Ìý

I’m lucky to live in an area with plenty of public transport and several GoGet cars within a block or two for those days I can’t ride, and my child is still small enough that I can easily make it up hills with her on the back.

But some things are changing, and lately I’ve been wondering whether I should buy a car again.Ìý

My daughter now goes to school a few suburbs away so I have to hire a GoGet several times a week, which is adding up, and she’s nearly 10 and growing like a weed so it won’t be long until those hills start feeling like mountains. Plus, we’re planning some camping and road trips this year, so we’ll need a car for those.

Is continuing my car-free existence sustainable? Maybe, but there’s a lot to consider.

If you’re thinking of breaking up with your car and taking up with an e-bike, here are the positives and negatives that I’ve experienced over the years. Plus, some tips on the types of lifestyles that may be suited to a car-free existence – and which ones aren’t.

Pros of replacing your car with an e-bike:

• The savings: no more costs for petrol, parking or rego, and cheaper purchase, insurance, repayment and servicing costs.
• Even if you need to pay for a car share subscription or occasional car hire, it usually ends up being far cheaper than owning your own car.
• It can be faster to get where you’re going – you can avoid congestion by taking bike paths.
• You won’t have to worry about finding a parking spot, and you can generally ride right up to your destination instead of having to walk from where you’ve parked.
• Exercise and fresh air while you’re travelling.
• You’ll significantly reduce your carbon footprint.
• You don’t need a license to ride an e-bike.
• No more stressful, boring car commutes in peak hour.

Cons of replacing your car with an e-bike:

• You’re at the mercy of the weather.
• It can be unsafe riding on the road.
• It’s not always glamorous: think helmet hair and arriving sweaty and out of breath at your destination.
• Due to their high value and movability, e-bikes are often targeted by bike thieves – you’ll need somewhere safe and secure to store it and lock it up, and potentially take out insurance to cover it in the case of theft.
• If you have a physical disability, chronic pain or other health condition (or if you develop one after getting rid of your car), riding may be too difficult.
• If you have children you want to carry on your bike, you may need to invest in a cargo bike and other accessories such as a child seat.
• As your children get bigger, it can get harder to transport them on the bike.
• You generally can’t carry large, very heavy items on your bike.
• If you anticipate needing a vehicle here and there, you’ll probably need to pay for car-sharing membership or similar.
• Some cities don’t have great cycling infrastructure.
• You’ll need to hire or borrow a car for road trips.
• Flat tyres can be difficult to replace, depending on your bike.

Will replacing your car with an e-bike work for you?

For some people, an e-bike can easily replace their car for most things – and will probably save a lot of hassle and money. But for others, it’s not likely to be a realistic solution.

Here are the lifestyles for which a car-free existence could work – and the ones that definitely don’t.

Some factors that can make a car-free life feasible:

• You live in an urban area where public transport is easily accessible.
• You don’t have to travel far to work, or you work from home.
• The area you live in has good bike lanes and bike paths to travel on.
• You don’t have children to transport around, or if you do, they’re still small enough that you can carry them on your bike.
• You don’t go on road trips very often.
• There are easy-to-access car sharing options near you.
• You either don’t need to buy large quantities of groceries, or you can easily have them delivered.

Some reasons you might not be able to ditch your car for an e-bike:

• You have a long commute.
• There aren’t many public transport or carshare options in your area.
• You live in either a particularly cold and wet or very hot climate.
• You’re not a confident cyclist
• There aren’t many bike lanes or paths near you
• Physical limitations that can make riding difficult
• You’re buying groceries for a large household or you buy in bulk
• You regularly go on road trips or long drives in your city
• Your kids (or pets!) are too big for you to carry them on a bike

Try before you buy

When we’ve tested e-bikes in our labs, we’ve found that they can really vary in terms of how easy and comfortable they are to ride – they’re not like riding a regular bike.

There are so many different options for motors, configurations, accessories and, of course, price that you really want to make sure you’re choosing exactly the right set-up, especially if you’re planning for it to replace your car.

The best way to decide whether a particular e-bike is right for you is to visit a bike shop and take a few different bikes for a ride.Ìý

The company I bought my bike from offered a very generous two-week trial, which gave me the opportunity to assess whether I could realistically get rid of my car and just live with the bike. (I didn’t use my car once during those two weeks, which was a pretty clear sign!)

And if you’re still not sure you’re ready to trade in your seatbelt for a helmet, you could try an e-bike subscription service such as Lug+Carrie. These subscriptions often cover bike rental, servicing, insurance and roadside assistance, so you can trial e-bike life before committing to it full-time.

Can you go car-free?

If your lifestyle and motivations align with a bike-only existence, then I say go for it! You’ll still need to use a car for some activities, but you might find the slight inconvenience of having to hire a car or book a share car is worth it for the savings and improved wellbeing.

It is a big adjustment, though, so it’s not a decision to be made lightly. There’s also no reason why you can’t purchase an e-bike, try it out for a few months while you still own a car, then ditch four wheels in favour of two permanently.Ìý 

The post Can an electric bike replace your car? appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• How we choose what we test
• How we test e-bikes
• Test criteria explained

There are a wide variety of models and types to consider, from commuter bikes and folding bikes through to off-road mountain bikes that can go virtually anywhere. Our testers not only put a range of e-bikes through testing for ease of use, charging the battery and portability when storing the bike, they also take the e-bikes out on the road to see how they perform under different bike riding scenarios.

How we choose what we test

Why do we choose one e-bike over another? There are a number of reasons, but our priority is to test what the average consumer (or ÌÇÐÄVlog member) is most likely to consider for commuting, exercise or recreation. That means sometimes we might not cover the one brand that has one model that’s only sold 100 samples in Australia, and instead focus on the big brand models that you’re most likely to see in shops.

How do we know what’s in shops? We ask manufacturers and check current market figures to see what’s selling well. We’ll also include models that you’ve requested – if a lot of members want it, we’re going to test it.

When we know what you want, our buyers go out and purchase e-bikes from a variety of retailers if possible, then bring them in as-is. This means we get what you’d get, so we can be sure the results are what you’ll find (and the e-bikes haven’t been ‘tweaked’ in any way for better performance).

How we test e-bikes

Pedal assistance: How well does the motor assist with speed when pedalling? The testers consider aspects such as how suddenly the motor kicks in when moving the pedal (providing a smooth transition or a sudden burst).Ìý

They also look at how natural the motor assistance is when moving through the gears. Our testers will also note if an e-bike provides assistance over 25km/h, which is currently the legal limit in most of Australia.

Braking: How quickly does the e-bike respond to the cyclist’s braking action?

Turning and low speed performance: The testers assess how well the bike performs when riding uphill and slow riding where accuracy in turning and handlebar response is important.

Ride comfort: Our testers assess the comfort of the bike when riding over rough terrain such as off road and bumps.

Handling: The testers look at ease of mounting, dismounting, off-bike handling (walking the bike), safety and comfort.

Controls: All the menu controls are looked at for intuitiveness and ease of access.

Battery use (on-bike): The testers consider ease of charging aspects when the battery is left on the bike, including how easy it is to see the charging level and also ease of access for the charging cable.

Battery use (off-bike): This is an assessment of the battery when taken off the bike, for use when the bike may not be stored near a power point.

Display: Our testers look at the quality of the screen and menu items.

Test criteria explained

The ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating, our overall score that determines which products we recommend, is a combination of the comfort, ease of use and accuracy scores. Weightings are in brackets.

• Pedal assistance score (15%)
• Braking score (15%)
• Turning and low speed score (10%)
• Ride comfort score (10%)
• Handling score (10%)
• Controls score (10%)
• Battery use (on-bike) score (10%)
• Battery use (off-bike) score (10%)*
• Display score (10%)

* Some models (like the Orbea Vibe H30) have a non-removable battery, so do not receive a score for the battery use (off-bike) test. This does not affect the product’s ÌÇÐÄVlog Expert Rating as the user will generally know about this before buying.

The post How we test electric bikes appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• Which type of electric bike should you get?
• Considering a cargo bike? What you need to know
• How much do electric bikes cost?
• How much do electric bikes weigh?
• How long does the battery last and how far will it get you?
• How to charge an electric bike
• What are the laws on electric bikes?
• Does the electric bike motor location make a difference?
• What to look for in an electric bike

So what should you consider if you’re thinking of buying an electric bike?

Why would you want an electric bicycle?

There are several reasons you may prefer an electric bicycle to a pedal-powered model.

• You live in a hilly area.
• You’re not all that fit or you have limited mobility.
• You want to be able to take off more easily from an intersection.
• You want to switch from a car to a bike (to avoid traffic jams and enjoy easier parking, reduced emissions and lower costs) without being limited to only short or flat rides.
• You don’t want to get all sweaty – particularly if your workplace doesn’t have shower facilities.
• You want to avoid using public transport.

Which type of electric bike should you get?

What style of riding do you do? If you need to carry out errands like your weekly grocery shop or you plan to have passengers, you may want to consider a cargo bike. If you want to get to and from work, look for a commuter bike.Ìý

If you want to just use it for mountain biking , there’s an e-bike for that too.

There’s even a hybrid option – an e-bike that allows you to commute to work in comfort while also performing reasonably as an off-road bike. However, as with most hybrids, compromises are usually made for the versatility on offer.

Have a conversation with someone at your local bike store to help determine what you’re looking for – for some, it could be to replace the second car or public transport, while for others they’ll only be using it on weekends for riding around the city park.

Don’t try just one model instore either – it’s a large chunk of change you’re parting with, and all bike stores know this. Good bike stores will be fine with you borrowing the bike for a trial ride. Some may even let you hire one for a week or so to get a good feel for whatever ends up taking your fancy.

Considering a cargo bike? What you need to know

Cargo bikes are longer alternatives with a front or rear storage box, trailer and/or pannier mounts that can hold a variety of bags. Some may even be able to carry a couple of small children in compatible child seats.

The addition of electric motors that assist with pedalling have made cargo bikes a viable alternative to small cars, depending on how far you need to travel. But they don’t always come cheap, with some costing almost as much as a car. Still, they may be a good option if your work and usual errands are within cycling distance.

It’s important to note that a cargo bike’s extra size and weight can make riding more complicated, so you really need to plan your route before heading out. Its increased length and width can restrict access in areas with smaller bike lanes or roads, while additional weight can make it difficult to navigate curbs and bumpy or damaged sections.

Some bikes also have very wide turning circles, which can make them hard to manoeuvre, especially on bike paths that have tight sections, bollards, or chicanes.

Cargo bikes aren’t designed to go off-road for extended periods. Short sections of grass, rocks, dirt and so on are fine but cargo bikes prefer proper pathways, sealed roads and the like.

Then, there’s the question of whether there’s enough room to park a large cargo bike at your destination. With all this in mind, you may want to consider safety accessories such as rear-view mirrors and indicators.

Also, be aware that some cargo bikes may have a throttle and may allow propulsion at full speed without pedalling – especially rear hub-based bikes with throttles. Not only is this illegal unless the bike is limited to six kilometres per hour, it puts pedestrians at risk.

How do you ride an electric bike?

Electric bikes work by assisting your pedal movement as you’re riding. For the most part, riding an electric bike is the same as riding a normal bike – you’ll still need to steer, brake and pedal.Ìý

The difference is, with an electric bike you’ll be able to ride faster and longer without as much effort, as the motor adds extra power to your pedalling. You can choose from a number of settings to adjust the amount of assistance you’re getting from the motor based on your needs and the conditions.

Electric bikes are heavier and can reach higher speeds than normal bikes, meaning that correct braking technique, good hazard perception and safe cornering are particularly important.

How much do electric bikes cost?

Electric bikes aren’t cheap. They range from less than $800 for a basic bike and battery to more than $12,000 for a high-end model with all the trimmings, such as lights, racks and panniers.Ìý

A reasonably priced median of $2000–3500 will generally come with a decent battery and guards for wheels and the chain, making bike commuting a cleaner prospect.

How much do electric bikes weigh?

Whether you use a conversion kit to turn your current bike into an electric version or buy an electric bike ready-made, you’re going to end up with a heavier-than-average set of wheels. Some ready-made bikes even exceed 30kg. If you want to transport your electric bike by car, you might need to invest in a bike rack that can take the extra weight.

The weight of each electric bicycle is going to vary based on the options you decide on. A bigger battery, lights and panniers all add kilos (and price) to your final purchase. The weights shown in our e-bikes test results are with the standard options fitted and shown in the table.Ìý

If you’re buying online, give the retailer a call to see how much the final electric bike will weigh and they’ll be able to give you an estimate – you’re less likely to find it on their website except maybe as an indicator.

While electric bikes are gaining traction in the cycle market, there are some height limitations. Taller riders may find their choices limited as the majority of electric bikes are designed for riders of average height and there isn’t yet a large selection of bikes designed especially for taller people. Taller or heavier riders will need to look for stronger, larger frames and tyres.

How long does the battery last and how far will it get you?

Most electric bikes have lithium-ion battery packs with 8–28Ah capacity, and voltage from 24–48V. Your Ah (Amp hours) is an indicator of its theoretical distance – the greater the Ah, the greater the distance.

Electric bikes only get you so far before needing a recharge. Some claim a limit of 30km, while others claim up to a more impressive 100km between charges, although be aware that some manufacturer estimates are likely to be generous. Most give a broad claim because it depends on a number of variables, including: 

• the rider’s weight
• how fast you pedal
• the weight of your load
• wind strength and direction
• temperature
• incline and surface type
• the power level you use.

In the past year of e-bike assessments, our testers feel the claims manufacturers make about battery life are usually on the conservative side, meaning you shouldn’t expect any nasty surprises with your battery giving up on a long trek, as long as you stay under the maximum claimed distance.Ìý

We perform test rides with a weighted load to check how fast the battery runs down. Our results generally show that they are capable of travelling their claimed mileage on a single full charge.

How to charge an electric bike

Electric bikes come with a battery charger and most have a removable battery pack. To charge your electric bike, you need to remove the battery pack from the bike (if it’s removable), plug the battery charger into a mains outlet then connect the battery pack to the charger.Ìý

You can expect the batteries to last for about 500 charges, and replacements cost between $350 and $1000 depending on their size. Budget for a replacement every three years.

Typical recharge time is 4–6 hours. If you charge only partially, this doesn’t count as a full recharge but a fraction of a full charge. Check the manual for proper battery charge maintenance. Many shops will recommend not charging to full but to operate the bike on a mid-charge, and to not run it down completely.

Are electric bike batteries safe?

With numerous media reports of incidents caused by exploding electric bike batteries, they might seem like a disaster waiting to happen. Though there are some risks, you can significantly reduce the chances of damage, injury or death by following some simple steps.

Electric bikes use lithium-ion batteries, which you can also find in plenty of tech products around the home. Pretty well all smartphones, laptops, fitness trackers and so on use these, albeit with one key difference – size. Electric bike batteries are much larger so if something goes wrong, the results can be much worse.Ìý

A lot of the incidents have occurred because of batteries either being modified or used with the wrong type of charger. All batteries should have battery management systems that control the way a battery is charged, and cut off when they have reached maximum charge.Ìý

Cheap batteries from unregulated markets may lack these systems. This is why you need to stick with reputable brands.

Fire and Rescue New South Wales has put together a which can help protect you, and your bike, from charging risks. We’ve also included some tips developed during our electric bike tests. These include:

1. Charge safely

You should only charge bikes when you’re at home and awake. Don’t leave them charging overnight or when you’re out.

Charge your bike in a well-ventilated, open area with a working smoke alarm, away from items and objects that can catch fire. Avoid charging the bike in a spot that can obstruct exits if the battery ignites.

2. Identify faulty batteries

Lithium-ion batteries degrade over time. If your battery doesn’t last as long as it used to and takes even longer to charge, look into getting a new one. Degraded batteries can be dangerous.

Also, look, feel or smell for warning signs that can indicate a faulty battery. Electric bike batteries shouldn’t run hot or emit smoke or other vapours when in use and while charging. These are signs of overheating and the battery will need to be replaced.

Keep an eye on the battery and protective casing as well, especially if your bike is more than a few years old. Check for unusual bumps, lumps, bulges or sections where the case is detaching. The battery has likely swollen, which can lead to leaks or, in extreme cases, an explosion.

If you have a faulty battery, remove it safely as per the manual or contact an experienced electric bike mechanic. Store the battery outside in a well-ventilated area, at least three metres from buildings, objects, pets etc and anything else that can catch fire, until you can dispose of it safely.

Do not throw the battery in the bin. Check your local council, or state/territory government website for information on community recycling events as these generally accept large batteries. The New South Wales EPA guidelines, for example, .

3. Avoid third-party batteries and chargers

Only use the charger that comes with the bike or an alternative that has been approved by the manufacturer. Don’t use or purchase electric bikes that don’t include a charger and double check to make sure that the included model is approved for use by the manufacturer.Ìý

Finally, make sure the charger displays the Australian Regulatory Compliance Marker (pictured below).

As Fire and Rescue NSW says “just because the plug fits, it doesn’t mean it’s compatible. Charging a device or battery with the wrong power output (voltage and current), can cause damage to the battery and overheat it which can cause a fire.”

Most electric bikes let you easily, and safely, replace or upgrade the battery. Make sure your replacement battery comes from a reputable supplier approved by the manufacturer. These are often called original equipment manufacturers or ‘OEMs’. Avoid third-party batteries as these may not be subject to the same safety requirements.

Only use mechanics that source batteries from approved OEMs. If your bike uses an integrated battery (aka a battery that isn’t easy to detach), don’t attempt a home replacement. Take it to a specialist mechanic.

Try to stick with known brands such as Bosch, Shimano, and Bafang. Unknown or unbranded imports can have reliability and repair issues.

4. Use reputable mechanics

Try to find reputable stores that hire trained mechanics, as they’re likely to purchase legitimate bikes and spare parts from manufacturers or approved suppliers. If something seems shady, or it looks like a backyard operation, go elsewhere as you don’t know where their spare parts are coming from.

What are the laws on electric bikes?

According to federal law, an electric bike must be able to function by pedalling alone, but it also has a motor attached which can assist the rider. If it doesn’t have pedals, it’s a moped or a motorbike and a whole different set of laws apply.

In 2012 the federal government adopted the European standard (EN 15194: 2009 or EN 15194:2009+A1:2011), making ‘Pedelec’ electric bikes legal in Australia. This is now the most common type of electric bike used in Australia.

A Pedelec (taken from ‘pedal electric cycle’) must be labelled as complying with EN 15194 and it must have an electric motor that requires the rider to pedal in order to activate (Pedelecs equipped with a throttle that starts the motor without pedalling up to 6km/h are also allowed).Ìý

What is the maximum power output?

Pedelecs can have a maximum power output of 250W (500W in NSW), while other electric bikes are capped at 200W.Ìý

What is the speed limit for electric bikes?

Pedelec motors must cut out once the bike reaches a speed of 25km/h. If you’re riding without the motor, you can go faster (by pedalling harder or going downhill), but you still need to observe speed limits for roads and shared paths, just like other cyclists.

Other electric bikes don’t have a speed cut-out but they also have less powerful motors (maximum 200W) and the same speed limits for roads and shared paths apply.

If you’re riding on private property, these speed limits don’t apply and you’re also allowed to ride a bike with a higher watt-rating than what is legal to ride on public roads.

The limits on electric bike motors that can be ridden in public mean that they’re unlikely to be able to keep up with city traffic, so keep this in mind if you’re considering buying one for this reason.

The laws surrounding the maximum power of e-bike motors have been under discussion within the industry for several years, with many feeling that the power and speed of e-bikes is currently too limited.

For comparison, New Zealand laws allow motors of a maximum sustained power output of 250W and a maximum speed of 32km/h for off-road or mountain e-bikes, and up to 45km/h for commuter e-bikes.

Do you need a licence or registration to ride an electric bike?

No. Just like regular bikes, electric bikes don’t require a licence or registration, but riders are legally required to wear a helmet and follow road rules.

Can you ride an electric bike on the footpath?

It depends on which state you’re in. Electric bikes have to follow the same rules as normal bikes, so check your state’s bicycle laws. For example, in Western Australia anyone can ride their bike on the footpath, but in NSW only children under 16 and those supervising them can ride on the footpath.

State-specific laws

While 200W electric bikes and 250W Pedelecs are legal nationwide, it’s a good idea to check your state or territory’s transport website for any important information on the rules and regulations regarding electric bikes before you hit the road. ÌÇÐÄVlog is monitoring the situation for any likelihood of changes to the regulations regarding the power of the motor or the limit for speed assistance.

Can you convert an existing bike into an electric bike?

Yes, it’s possible to buy an electric bike conversion kit and have it fitted onto your existing bike, but it may not always be the best option. Here are some things to consider if you’re thinking about converting your bike into an electric bike.

• Is your bike suitable for conversion? Your bike should be in good condition with sturdy wheels and good brakes, or it may be unsafe to ride with an electric motor.
• Will it end up costing you more? While conversion kits are cheaper than buying a new electric bike, your existing bike may require a number of upgrades in order to function safely with a motor. It may be cheaper to simply sell your existing bike and put the money towards a new electric bike.
• Consider that your bike will be much heavier once the electric motor is fitted and may not be as comfortable to ride as a purpose-built electric bike.
• Converting your existing bike might be a good idea for those with special requirements (such as needing an extra tall bike) or if you’ve snagged a really great bargain on a good quality bike that is appropriate for conversion.

Does the electric bike motor location make a difference?

The motor that utilises the battery energy to give the bike momentum can be located either in the middle of the bike (mid-drive) or in the hub of one of the wheels (hub drive).

Mid-drive pros

• Sportier and smoother ride (better gear usage).
• Lighter and smaller.
• Spreads weight along the length of the bike.
• Much easier to change the tyres.
• Can use any combination of wheel, tyre or cassette.

Cons

• If the chain snaps, you’re not going to be able to throttle back to a repair shop.
• Chains need to be better quality (mid-drive motors are hard on them).
• More moving parts, so more areas that can break.
• More expensive to replace than a hub drive.

Hub drive pros

• You’re more likely to have a throttle.
• Snapping a chain means you can use your throttle to get back to a repair location (albeit slowly).
• If your hub motor fails, you can pedal back on pedal power only.
• Depending on where the battery is located, a hub motor location can balance the bike effectively (battery towards the front, hub motor in the rear).
• Cheaper than mid-drive motors.
• Better traction (if installed in rear).
• Lower maintenance costs.

Cons

• Much harder to change the rear tyre (if installed in the rear).
• Not as much range for gear changing.
• Heavier than mid-drives.
• The weight of the hub drive can mean your tyre and spokes can wear out sooner.
• You’re more likely to feel bumps (the suspension is less effective).
• Restricted in what wheel peripherals you use (wheels, tyres, cassette).

What to look for in an electric bike

If you’re thinking of buying an electric bike, most of the tips in our bicycle buying guide will still be useful to you. It’s also worth taking the following features into consideration.

Higher watt motor

This means more torque or take-off potential from a standing start. All will be set from 200–250W for legal reasons (with 500W allowed in NSW), but a higher rated motor (350 or 500W) limited to 250W will give greater torque than a 250W motor.

Throttle

While generally electric bikes require you to pedal in order to activate the motor, some come with a throttle which can start the motor without pedalling. The throttle can legally power your bike up to 6km/h, so it can be useful if you need help taking off from a standing start – especially up a hill. However, using the throttle will drain your battery faster.Ìý

Weight

Electric bikes are heavy – some are over 30kg because of that battery. Remember to take this into account if you might need to lift it, for example to carry up stairs or mount on a roof rack. Ring, or visit, the retailer you’re purchasing from to find out the final weight after all the additions of batteries, lights, panniers, etc.Ìý

Tyres

Puncture-resistant tyres will save you from having to change as many flats – a particular hassle if you have a rear hub motor or if you struggle with the weight of the bike.

Brakes

Look for hydraulic disc brakes – they’ll be more expensive but require less maintenance than mechanical disc brakes or V brakes.

Accessories

A helmet is a legal requirement when riding a bicycle of any kind. Lights, hi-vis clothing, locks, a pump, mudguards, a chain guard, racks and panniers are extras worth considering, but remember they all add weight.

Servicing

Servicing your e-bike yourself is completely doable, but if you don’t have the time or expertise, budget for around $150 every year for servicing if you want your hub, brakes, chain, cassette and gears to last and prepare to add to that for any parts needed. The cheaper your purchase, the more likely you’re going to need to add a lot of spare parts in the near future.

The post What to know before buying an electric bike appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• Should you buy an electric bike?
• What to look for in an electric bike
• Electric bikes: The pros
• Electric bikes: The cons

Sick of soul-sucking car commutes? Sore from struggling up hills on your treadly? Dreaming of being a cyclist but not sure you’re up to the challenge?

Electric bikes can make cycling faster, easier and more accessible – and could help your body, your wallet and your carbon footprint.

But they don’t come cheap: you’re looking at thousands of dollars for a good one. So are these bikes worth the bucks?

Full disclosure: I own an electric bike and love it – it’s changed my life for the better. So while I am biased, I’ve also experienced the positives and negatives first-hand.

I’ll share some of my perspectives plus expert advice from our testers to explain the drawcards, drawbacks and things to consider about electric bikes to help you decide whether an e-bike is the right choice for you.

Should you buy an electric bike?

So are electric bikes worth it? Our experts say yes, depending on your situation.Ìý

“I think they are, especially if you’re doing a lot of riding in areas that have a lot of hills. The pedal assist really does come in handy,” says ÌÇÐÄVlog test expert Elias Plastiras.

“Personally, I definitely think they’re worth buying,” says Petr Valouch, another test expert who happens to be an electric bike owner.Ìý

“Since I bought my bike six years ago I haven’t looked back. It gives you the freedom to still use it for exercise and it gives you the extra boost when you need it on hills and against the wind.”

“Owning and using an e-bike can become habit forming,” says ÌÇÐÄVlog expert Denis Gallagher.Ìý

“For all those short treks where you’d automatically jump in your car, you’ll quickly start reaching for the helmet rather than the car keys. It’s simply a lot more enjoyable and more of a treat than a chore to get from A to B.”

However, electric bikes are expensive and they’re not suitable for all riders or all situations, so your best bet is to do lots of research and take a test ride or hire one before you commit.Ìý

What to look for in an electric bike

Our test experts put 21 electric bikes through their paces – literally – to see how they performed. Here’s what Elias recommends you do before buying an electric bike:

“Go to the shop; check them out. Get on the bike and ride it – do a test ride,” he says. “You’ve really got to test the bike out so you know what you’re getting when you actually buy it.”

Petr says it’s also a good idea to see how easy the battery is to use: remove it, charge it and put it back onto the bike. And the features to look for?

“The main things are the comfort of the ride, the pedal assist, the safety features and the practicality,” says Petr.

You’ll need to decide whether to go with a mid-drive or hub drive bike – basically, where the motor is located. There are pros and cons to each, which we explain in our guide to buying the best electric bike.

A throttle can be helpful to get you going faster from a standing start, especially up a hill, but they do drain the battery faster. Bikes with a higher-watt motor will also help you get going faster.

Elias says hydraulic disc brakes are the way to go as they’re very effective, especially when going downhill at speed. Safety features like lights, reflectors and a bell are non-negotiables, obviously.

“And of course the assist level: can you go from a high assist to a low assist quickly?” he says.

Electric bikes: The pros

Fresh air, exercise, a cheaper commute and more: here’s what you’ll love about electric bikes.

Easier riding

Whether you’re already a cyclist or you want to become one but can’t bear the thought of slogging it up hills, you’ll love the ease of riding an electric bike.Ìý

They’re not like a motorbike – you’ll still need to pedal – but the motor essentially boosts your pedal power as you ride, making things faster and easier. Compared to a regular bike, you’ll get far more out of your pedalling, which really helps on hills.

Because they’re less physically demanding than non-electric bikes, they make cycling more accessible for people who wouldn’t usually consider riding: people with physical limitations, commuters whose trip is just a bit too far or too hilly to cycle on a regular bike, and anyone who doesn’t want to arrive at their destination a sweaty mess.

The pedal assist will help you ride faster – up to around 25km/h – and accelerate faster from a standstill than a regular bike, helping you keep up with the traffic. Slow cyclists aren’t very popular during peak hour! 

Most of the e-bikes you buy can go faster than 25km/h and there are bikes available with a motor power rating well above 500 watts. However, current state and national regulations stipulate that an e-bike can’t be ridden on public roads or paths if the pedal assistance provided by the motor is faster than 25km/h.Ìý

This may change in future as Australia has some of the most conservative legislation in the world in this regard, but at the moment there seems to be no movement by the state or national government to lift the current speed assist and power restrictions.

Having an easier ride means you’re more likely to stick with it, too, whereas if you buy a regular bike and find it difficult to ride, you might just abandon the idea altogether.Ìý

The environmental benefits

This is one of the main drawcards of an electric bike. Each time you ride instead of drive, you’re reducing your carbon footprint.Ìý

into the atmosphere each year, but even if you’re only using it for a couple of trips a week that will still make a big difference.

Fewer cars on the road means faster commuting time for drivers, so there’s a flow-on effect too.

Yes, e-bikes do need electricity to charge, but even if your power comes from a coal-fired plant, it’s still producing far fewer emissions than a fossil fuel-powered car. And if you have solar or buy greener energy, you’ll be reducing your carbon footprint even further.Ìý

Making sure you get a good quality e-bike with good components will mean they last longer as well, and a longer lifespan for any product means a better outcome for your bank account in the long run.

No more sitting in traffic

Commuting by car is exhausting, frustrating and feels like a waste of your time. But with an electric bike, you can skip the traffic by either riding around it at red lights or taking the cycleways.Ìý

You’ll also never have to worry about finding parking – a huge win in built-up areas.

For a quick trip to the shops or to meet a friend for coffee, jumping on your e-bike can be much less hassle, and you’ll arrive with a smile on your face and a spring in your step.

It’s a sweet feeling sailing past cars banked up at red lights or riding straight into the heart of a busy location while other people spend 20 minutes finding a park! 

You might be surprised by how quickly you can get around, too. My 7km commute from home to the office takes 20 minutes by car, but on my electric bike, it’s just 18 minutes. The trip home is also around 20 minutes by bike but by car it’s at least 25 in peak hour, or more if there’s a crash or road closure.

They’re not huge time savings, but I was pleasantly surprised to find that riding is actually faster than driving for some trips. Obviously it’s different for every rider and every location, but it still makes for a far quicker and easier ride than a regular bike.

The health benefits

Getting around by bike is fantastic incidental exercise – you’ll get to where you’re going, but you’ll also get a gentle workout on the way.Ìý

They’re a great place to start for people who aren’t fit or who have limited mobility due to joint pain or other issues. Even if you’re riding slowly with the power turned all the way up, you’re still moving your body and building up strength.Ìý

If you’d like a bit more of a challenge you can dial down the pedal assist. I set my bike at about half power so I’m still working hard but the hills aren’t a killer (it’s quite hilly near ÌÇÐÄVlog HQ!).Ìý

Electric bikes are heavier than regular bikes, so depending on how you like to ride, you may even be getting as much of a workout as you would on a non-electric bike.Ìý

My bike weighs a hefty 35kg, so I figure that even with the pedal assist I’m still working about as hard as I would on a lighter non-electric bike – and with my child or a load of groceries on board, probably even harder.Ìý

(However, only two of the bikes in our test are over 30kg, ranging in weight from a diminutive 16kg all the way up to 36kg.)

It’s also a great mental health boost: you’re out in the fresh air and sunshine, getting those lovely endorphins flowing, and feeling good about reducing your carbon footprint. Plus, you’re skipping the stress and boredom of commuting by car which would normally be a drain on your time, energy and happiness.Ìý

The financial benefits

Even with the upfront cost, electric bikes come out well ahead of cars in terms of the toll they take on your bank account.Ìý

Think about how much you pay to run your car: there’s the petrol, rego, insurance, servicing, tyres, tolls and car repayments if you have a loan. Depending on the type of car you drive and the distances you travel, that can really add up. All for something that sits idle most of the time!

When I bought my electric bike, I sold my car, which was a huge life adjustment but also a huge adjustment to my budget. With the savings I was making, I could easily justify the cost of the occasional Uber or taxi, and hiring a car or van as needed.Ìý

Even if you were to buy an electric bike in addition to your car, every time you ride instead of drive you’re saving money – and reducing the wear and tear on your car.

If you’re not sure about dropping thousands of dollars in one go, some companies rent bikes, which is a good way to try out e-biking to see if it suits your life before you commit.Ìý

Most bike shops will also let you trial a bike before you buy. I was able to do a two-week trial before buying my bike – long enough to figure out whether it was something I could sustain, and to decide what add-ons I’d need.

Electric bikes: The cons

E-biking isn’t all rainbows and sunshine. Besides helmet hair, there are some very real drawbacks to electric bikes that you’ll need to consider.Ìý

The cost

Buying an electric bike isn’t a cheap proposition: the ones we’ve tested ranged in price from $1325 to $5299, but there are more expensive bikes on the market, especially if you’re looking at a long-tail cargo bike or a box bike to cart the kids, dogs or groceries (or all three!) around.Ìý

Depending on how you plan to use your bike, there’s also the cost of accessories and potential modifications, plus safety gear like a helmet, good-quality lock, gloves and highly visible riding gear. And don’t forget to account for higher servicing and maintenance costs than for a standard bike.

It’s also a good idea to take out specialist bicycle insurance to cover you for third-party liability and theft. Some insurers also offer cover for injury and loss of income.Ìý

Safety

Ride safety

There’s no denying that you’re more vulnerable on a bike than in a car, even if you’re sticking to cycleways and footpaths. Stacking it on concrete can be painful at best and bone-breaking at worst, even on a non-electric bike.

And the faster you ride, the harder you fall, so an e-bike’s quicker pace can mean more serious injuries.

Riding on the road is riskier again. You’re not only relying on your riding ability and situational awareness, you’re also depending on car drivers to actually check their blind spots or see you coming. (You’d be surprised how many drivers fail to spot my gigantic bike.)

Being hit by a car can end your bike-riding days – or your life. The human body doesn’t stand much of a chance against a huge metal object travelling at speed. Even a car travelling at low speed can do significant damage that could affect you for the rest of your life.

Regardless of where you ride, the risk of injury is real and shouldn’t be taken lightly.

Unlike in some European countries, where cycling is more common, Australian drivers often aren’t used to bikes being on the road, so aren’t familiar with how to drive safely around bikes.Ìý

Road rage

Then there’s the very real and unpleasant fact of copping abuse from drivers who don’t think bikes should be allowed on the road.

It’s not only frustrating, but can be quite scary when you’re the target of an aggressive driver – especially if you have a child on board.

Battery safety

The heart of an electric bike is the lithium-ion battery, but they do come with risks. If you use or charge them the wrong way, they can overheat, catch fire or even explode.

When charging your battery, use the original charging cords and plugs that came with the bike, unplug it as soon as it’s fully charged, and be careful about where you charge it: keep it away from flammable materials.

Limited range

While a non-electric bike is only limited by how long your legs can keep turning, the benefits of an e-bike will only last as far as the battery lasts. After that, you’ll be pedalling a bike that’s much heavier than a normal bike.Ìý

The distance your bike will cover depends on a number of factors including the size of the battery, how you ride and the power level you use, but it could be anywhere between 30 and 100km.Ìý

Most manufacturers will only give a ballpark figure because the range is affected by so many variables but, regardless, it’s important to take into account. For some bikes, you can opt for a bigger battery if you need a longer range.Ìý

Our testing has found that companies generally underestimate on the claim to ensure that you don’t get any nasty surprises when you head out on your first long ride.

Like with any battery, e-bike batteries will decline over time so you may find that the range decreases the longer you have it. You can expect the batteries to last for about 500 full charges and replacements cost between $350 and $1000.Ìý

Theft

Electric bikes are gaining popularity not only with commuters, but also with bike thieves due to their value.Ìý

It’s worth investing in a good-quality lock if you want your bike to stay where you put it. You’ll need something that’s hard to remove even with a portable angle grinder, which is a favoured tool among bike thieves.Ìý

A U-lock style is a good option, as is a built-in wheel lock, which immobilises the back wheel, making it impossible to wheel away if a thief does manage to get through your other lock.Ìý

One lock is good, but two is better – anything you can do to make it harder for bike thieves is well worth the money. None of them are foolproof, but locks are designed to slow down would-be thieves and the more locks, the less likely they are to select your bike to steal.

The weight

Even small e-bikes are far heavier than their non-electric counterparts, by virtue of their design.Ìý

They can be tricky to manoeuvre if you need to lift your bike (for example to carry it up stairs or mount it on a roof rack), or hard to push along when you dismount – or if the electric battery runs out unexpectedly.Ìý

If you’re buying a bike rack for your car, take the extra weight into account.

Specialised maintenance

Electric bikes may cost less to run than cars, but you’ll still need to pay for maintenance to keep them running smoothly. Not every bike mechanic has the know-how to service an e-bike, so finding an electric bike mechanic is vital.

That specialised service will cost you more than a regular bike service, and replacement parts for e-bike specific components will be more expensive too.

Repairs that are straightforward on a regular bike can be far more complicated on an electric bike. Changing a flat tyre, for instance, can be quite the process if your bike has a rear hub motor. And the bike’s electrics mean there are more things that can go wrong than with a regular bike.Ìý

You should also regularly give your bike a basic service at home. Read how to maintain your electric bike.Ìý

The weather

No matter how committed a rider you are, you’re very much at the mercy of the elements on a bike. Heat, cold, rain and strong winds can make cycling unpleasant and sometimes even dangerous.Ìý

With the right gear, riding in the cold or wet is doable in all but the most extreme weather, but even in light rain the road can become slippery and if you live somewhere especially chilly you might have to deal with icy roads.Ìý

If you’ve decided to go car-free, you’ll need to have a backup plan for days that you can’t ride. I use a carshare service and there are plenty of public transport options in my area, but depending on where you live, a rainy day could quash your plans to ride.

The post Should you buy an electric bike? appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• How we tested bicycle longevity
• First impressions
• What happened at each service
• Findings at end of trial
• Should you buy the cheaper bike?
• How to avoid a lemon bike
• The cycling advocate's position

Around 1.5 million bicycles were sold in 2022 and almost two-thirds of those were sold at big-box retailers like Kmart and Big W.Ìý

Cycling is a popular pastime – around 33% of Australian adults used a bike in 2022. And prices of bicycles vary widely, with entry-level models available for under $250, and others costing as much as a car.

But can you trust that you’ll get good life out of a budget bike? Or is it better to commit to quality from the start, even if it means a higher price tag? 

We investigated just how well a couple of cheap bicycles performed for longevity compared to similar, but more expensive, bicycles from bike shops.Ìý

We wanted to find out whether the big-box brands are delivering a quality product when their pricing is so low, and if a bike you buy today will last a decent amount of time.

How we tested bicycle longevity

Our testers bought two bicycles from Kmart and two from a bike shop: 

• Kmart Esplanade Cruiser ($187)
• Kmart Copenhagen ($197)
• Merida Speeder 10 ($535)
• Norco Yorkville 2018 ($543).

Four cyclists rode each bike for around for six months, using it for commuting and casual recreation. Time on the bikes ranged from 40 hours to over 70 hours, and distance travelled ranged from 600km to over 1400km.Ìý

We also had trained bike mechanics check each bike at monthly intervals, and identify any service or repairs needed.

First impressions

We had each bicycle checked when first bought to see whether they were put together well.Ìý

Most bikes are delivered in flat packs, so require some assembly. Dedicated bike shops do this by default, but you’ll have to pay a small fee for Kmart to put your bike together.

From a superficial perspective, all the bicycles we bought looked fine. They also passed official Australian Standards current requirements.Ìý

Assembly

The models from a bike store were put together mostly satisfactorily, but the Kmart bikes were not. The bike mechanic had to make a lot of corrections to the Kmart bicycles before giving them to our trial riders.

Post-purchase service

You should expect a free service after you buy a bike from a bike store (around three months is normal) to make sure it’s operating to the rider’s needs.Ìý

Tightening and adjusting tension for the rider are standard for bike shop purchases, but we couldn’t find any signs that Kmart offers the same service.

Ongoing servicing

By the end of our six-month trial we found that one of the cheap bicycles displayed significant rust on the frame, handlebars, wheel hubs, spokes, cranks and brake callipers.

For this bike, the mechanic recommended three services over six months to maintain functionality, compared to only one service over six months for the bike store samples.Ìý

On the other cheap bicycle, several parts were replaced due to poor-quality initial parts, especially in safety areas such as brakes and tyres.

Maintenance costs

Those services add to your maintenance expenses. In our case, it was $150 per service, which blew out the cost of the cheap bikes to almost 250% of their initial asking price!

It’s also worth considering whether a bicycle mechanic will actually service those cheaper bikes. Some feedback from mechanics we have is that many just don’t want to, due to poor quality builds, poor parts and impossible repairs, where things are not designed to be repaired.

“Not designed to be repaired”

Not all products are built to last, or even to be repaired. While most bikes have a derailleur (a mechanism used to change rear gears) that can be unscrewed from the hanger, the hanger on the Dutch-style bike we bought from Kmart was riveted directly to the derailleur, meaning it can’t be replaced, even though our mechanic suspected the hanger was bent. In this case you’d have to replace the entire mechanism rather than just one part, which costs more money.

What happened at each service

Below is a rundown of the corrections that had to be made when we first bought each bike, as well as issues that arose at the first, second and third service checks.Ìý

Compared to the two models from the bike store, the two Kmart bikes needed many more adjustments to keep them in good working order.

Kmart Esplanade Cruiser

Corrections needed when the bike first arrived – March 2023

• Wheel had to be trued.
• Tyres not inflated.
• Headset loosened – too tight, so didn’t move freely.
• Front hub readjusted – too tight.
• Rear hub drive side lock not done up – could loosen by hand.
• Rear gear did not move at all as there was no cable tension – had to index properly.

First service check – 4 May 2023

• Front brake adjustment screws have no effect – will impact pad wear in future.
• Rear brake lost significant tension – needed re-tightening.
• Bike has started to rust everywhere.
• Bell broke.

Second service check – 17 July 2023 (177km ridden)

• Rear gear noises and difficult to get gears to change smoothly; suspect derailleur slightly bent.
• Front brake cable rusting inside housing, impeding movement of cable – thoroughly lubed.
• Rear brake cable rusting inside housing, impeding movement of cable – thoroughly lubed.
• Bottom bracket has become extremely loose – needed re-tightening.
• Wheel bearings rusting on outside of both hubs.

Third service check – 21 August 2023 (730km ridden)

• Rear gears lost cable tension – not shifting into gear 1. Tension adjusted but still difficult to get into gear 1.
• Bottom bracket has become extremely loose again – needed re-tightening.
• Bike is rusting everywhere.

Kmart Copenhagen

Corrections needed when the bike first arrived – March 2023

• Headset too tight – needed to loosen.
• Tyres not inflated.
• Rear gears needed fixing.
• Rear derailleur limit screws needed fixing.
• Front brake needed fixing.
• Rear brake needed fixing.
• Seat post not greased.

First service check – 5 April 2023 (204km ridden)

• Front brake failing – came in too loose and making clicking noise. Lever pulls all the way to bar. Adjusted, but even then the brake periodically fails. Replaced brake caliper and lever.
• Rear brake lost cable tension and spring tension. Adjusted.
• Critical fasteners needed re-tightening (wheel nuts, stem steerer clamp bolts, saddle rail bolts).
• Readjusted wheel bearing hub.

Second service check – 3 July 2023 (581km ridden)

• Rear gears are ghost shifting (between 1 and 2). Adjusted limit screws and cable tension.
• Rear brake noodle broke. Brake lever lost nut to retain lever. Replaced with Shimano lever. Still difficult to get spring tension correctly set – lot of play in caliper arms. Because the rim is painted, the brakes squeal when the pad touches the rim, and wouldn’t work well in wet conditions.
• Bottle cage bolts have come loose again.
• Chain is wearing fast for its age, almost at 0.5.
• Headset is starting to lose the top dust seal.

Third service check – 21 August 2023 (959km ridden)

• Rear gear ghost shifting continues – had to re-tension.
• Rear brake pads – one was overworn, the other was OK, but both replaced. Too much play in brake arms make the pads very difficult to set correctly.
• Rear tyre has started to crack – replaced for new one.
• Chain is at 0.5 – would replace at next service.
• Headset top dust seal has come loose.

Norco Yorkville 2018

Corrections needed when the bike first arrived – March 2023

• Wheels had to be trued.
• Front hub was slightly too tight.
• Front brake drive side pad not touching braking surface – readjusted.
• Rear brake drive side pad not touching braking surface – readjusted.

First service check – 3 May 2023 (155km ridden)

• Rear brake tightened (normal cable stretch).

Second service check – 21 June 2023 (670km ridden)

• Front brake tightened (normal cable stretch).
• Rear brake tightened (normal cable stretch).

Third service check – 15 August 2023 (1132km ridden)

• Front brake tightened (normal cable stretch).
• Rear brake tightened (normal cable stretch).
• Rear brake pads replaced.
• Wheel bearings on rear had some play – tightened wheel bearings.

Merida Speeder 10

Corrections needed when the bike first arrived – March 2023

• Wheels had to be trued.
• Front hub had too much load – readjusted.
• Rear hub load had slightly too much load – readjusted.

First service check – 3 May 2023 (299km ridden)

• No adjustments.

Second service check – 21 June 2023 (423km ridden)

• Rear gear – tightened cable tension.
• Tyres inflated (at 30PSI).
• Wheel bearings – tightened cone nuts to remove bearing play.
• Rear wheel had developed small wobble – tightened spokes to resolve.

Third service check – 15 August 2023 (530km ridden)

• Front brake – tightened cable slightly.
• Rear brake – tightened cable slightly.
• Tyres inflated (at 30PSI).
• Wheel bearings – tightened cone nuts to remove bearing play.

Findings at end of trial

Bike shop results

Both of the bike store bicycles had issues that were dealt with by servicing regularly (once every six months), including wear and tear you’d expect with the amount of riding we did.Ìý

By the end of the test, the two bike shop samples were in good condition overall and fit for continued commuting, with some notes on replacement recommendations in the coming months.

Kmart bike results

The Kmart Copenhagen had a front brake that completely failed and needed to be replaced. In the second assessment, the rear brake was noted as about to fail so also had to be replaced.

The chain was of poor quality and was wearing out faster than the other bikes. The tyres were also of poor quality and the rear one had to be replaced as it started to crack. The brake pads were very soft as well, which meant they wore down quickly.

Overall, there were $140 of replacement part costs during the six-month test period. The rider also noticed they were getting “ghost” shifting, which means the gears would change for no apparent reason.

The second Kmart sample, the a Dutch cruiser-style Esplanade, had started to rust from the first couple weeks of use. Each time it came in for service, the bottom bracket had come loose, which would make the chain come off. The rust on the brake cables made them difficult to operate properly.Ìý

Aside from not being able to replace the derailleur hanger, we also found that the front wheel developed a wobble that was causing the wheel to rub on the brake pads.

Should you buy the cheaper bike?

While the price of bikes continues to rise, Kmart and other discount stores have attempted to help consumers by keeping prices lower.

This may seem like a good opportunity for beginners to experience a bicycle without regretting spending a lot of money if cycling isn’t to their taste. Though there’s a catch-22 here: if the first bike you ride results in a bad experience, it might put you off cycling if you’re just starting out.

Unfortunately, there’s often a cost to cheaper pricing. Most people understand that if you’re paying a very cheap price, you may be sacrificing something – in the case of our bike test, it’s durability.

We found that the inferior assembly and parts degraded faster over time, which will cost you more in the long run.Ìý

And in addition to ongoing maintenance costs, these cheaper bikes can ultimately end up in Australia’s waste stream, landfill or sitting in a shed gathering dust and deteriorating.

Although we only tested bikes from Kmart, we suspect we’d likely find similar issues with cheap bikes from other big-box stores.Ìý

We recommend that, if possible, you save up for a bike that might cost a bit more. It’ll likely last a lot longer with fewer costs over time.Ìý

If you aren’t in a position to buy a brand-new quality bike, there are some decent alternatives available. You can find plenty of second-hand bikes from bicycle shops or upcyclers for the same price as some big-box retailers. Try looking at (Sydney) and (Melbourne).

And if you’re buying a children’s bike, you may be thinking it doesn’t matter if it doesn’t last long, as your child will quickly outgrow it. But a good quality bike could have a second and even third life with someone else’s children.

Not all bike store bicycles are created equal

Bike stores can also carry very cheap bicycles with poor parts and serviceability. Even reputable bike brands carry a range of price points for the same reason. The key is to look for certain componentry that means the bike will last longer.

Of course, this puts the onus on the consumer, which is a hard task on top of everything else we deal with on a daily basis. Ideally, one of the benefits of going to a bike store is the service you’ll receive, making sure the bicycle you buy suits your needs.

How to avoid a lemon bike

Steer clear of:

• plastic brake levers – they deteriorate much quicker than aluminium
• poor quality brake callipers – make sure they’re aluminium
• stamped steel or plastic brake arms
• basic derailleurs – Shimano makes a variety of models under its brand name, and not all are going to serve you well, so look for a model with a sub-category (such as Shimano Alivio), not just the word Shimano
• low-quality frame and component materials – aim for aluminium rather than steel, as it’s more recyclable, less heavy and less likely to rust.

Finally, make sure your bike is assembled by a professional mechanic. We found a lot of issues with the cheaper bikes we bought from Kmart and don’t believe they were assembled by qualified mechanics.

The cycling advocate’s position

We talked to a bike riders’ advocacy group about our experiment.Ìý CEO Peter McLean says while the organisation agrees with the outcome of the results, those cheaper offerings serve an important part of a beginner cyclist’s journey.Ìý

Cheaper entry-level bikes allow consumers to experience owning and using a bicycle, and can also kickstart a cyclist’s journey for the next 10–30 years as they upgrade from a Kmart bicycle to more expensive and longer lasting options. Ultimately, the organisation says, it’s about getting people onto bicycles to have that first experience and foster a love of cycling in a person’s life.Ìý

McLean also related that a big-box retailer bike that only lasts 50–70 hours would probably be used recreationally, which might be a one to two-year duration rather than the high use test we carried out.Ìý

Plus, he added, there are plenty of ways to get well-serviced second-hand bicycles, whether that be through men’s sheds, repair cafes and other upcycling options.Ìý

McLean acknowledged the potential damage to the waste stream, where cheaper bikes can be very difficult to recycle because of the types of materials used in their manufacture. This might be serviced by a product stewardship scheme, or a requirement for bicycle manufacturers to make sure their bikes are easily disassembled and all parts are recyclable.

ÌÇÐÄVlog responds

We’ve stated our position a number of times on the need for a meaningful right to repair for Australia. This would then encourage better design standards. Either way, at the moment the system doesn’t work well for the waste stream, which impacts consumers in the long run.Ìý

We also think it would be useful for Kmart to start employing a professional bike mechanic to assemble the bikes, given we found so many errors in the assembly compared to the bike shop options.

At the moment it’s easy enough to take your poor-performing bicycle back to a big-box retailer and demand a refund or replacement after six months. But that just means the bike will go into the waste stream, which we all pay for eventually. Better that it was produced with a guarantee of quality componentry so it stays in both the original owner’s hands longer and has a second life as a second-hand good as well.

We’ve already seen examples of this working in retailers like Decathlon, which offers servicing and even second-life opportunities for bicycles they sell.

Acknowledgements

For this investigation we partnered with Revolve ReCycling, an upcycling initiative that collects second-hand bikes and redistributes them to charities after servicing, refurbishing and repairing them. It also sells second-hand bikes.Ìý

We found the organisation’s insights into the bicycle market very valuable, along with their onsite trained bicycle mechanics who test bikes and service them as needed.

The post Why you should think twice about buying a cheap bike from Kmart appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• Types of bike
• Choosing the right size
• Frame material – steel, aluminium or carbon fibre?
• Gears – how many and what type?
• Wheels and tyres
• Grips, pedals and saddle
• Bike accessories
• City cycling tips
• Bike-shopping checklist
• Cost

Types of bike

First up, choose a bike that’s a good fit for the kind of riding you’ll usually do. For example, if you’re going to be riding mainly in the city you might not want a mountain bike. Likewise, a road racer might not be the best pick if you just want to ride to the shops on the weekend.

For cycling newbies, we recommend an upright bike style. It’s more comfortable and gives you more awareness on the road. While it’s common to see riders with speedy drop-handlebar road bikes on the commute, they’re not designed for stopping and starting. Their low riding position also makes it much harder to keep an eye on the traffic.

You will often see the label “hybrid bike” applied to the various types below. They are hybrids in the sense that they are part road bike and part cruiser, or part commuter and part casual. But the hybrid term is used rather loosely and one store’s hybrid might be another store’s cruiser, or flat bar, or even a drop-handle road bike.

Here are the main types of upright commuter bike.

City or commuter bikes

Often come with accessories such as a rack, mud guards and lights. They’re a wallet-friendly option – bike accessories can add about $200 to the total if you purchase them individually.

• Upright and comfortable
• Often have internal hubs

Flat bar road bikes

Similar to a drop-handlebar road bike, but with flat handlebars, these are suited to a longer, speedier commute.

• Least upright commuter bike
• Faster than many similar bikes

Cruiser or step-through bikes

Also sometimes called “urban” or “sit up and beg” bikes, these are good for relatively short, relaxed rides.

• Low or no top bar, so you can “step through”
• Very upright
• Slower than other commuter bikes
• Comfortable

Folding bikes

These are good if you’re commuting by train and only want to ride part of the way. See more in our folding bikes buying guide.

Mountain bikes

These usually have shock absorbers and fatter tyres to handle off-road riding, from dirt tracks to hardcore downhill trails. However they can be quite good for casual and city riding too, and their robust design makes them good at handling bumps such as kerbs and potholes. Some riders might prefer them to the usual urban bikes listed above.

Electric bikes

These are either pedal assist (helps the rider pedal) or throttle-powered (no pedalling required). If you’re likely to be slogging up hills or travelling longer distances this may be the option for you. You can also buy conversion kits to turn your current bike into an electric bike.

Choosing the right size

Getting the correct frame size is essential to a good ride. One that’s too big or small will compromise on feel and comfort. There are plenty of specialist fitting services on the market, but if you’re just looking for a basic city bike, look for a model where most of the weight’s carried by your feet and bottom, not your hands.

• Height: Most bike size measurements are based on the seat tube length (the vertical bar from the pedal cranks to the saddle). Make sure you can stand over the bike with some clearance. For the best saddle height, place your heel on the pedal. When it’s at the bottom of the stroke, your leg should be straight.
• Stretch: The length of the top tube (seat to handlebars) is also important. It determines how far you’ll have to stretch while riding. There’s no simple guide here, but comfort is crucial. Make sure you’re not stretched out or too bunched up on the bike.

Frame material – steel, aluminium or carbon fibre?

The frame material can have a big effect on how the bike handles and how easy it is to carry around.

Steel

Common on classic bikes such as the Dutch step-through.

• Pros: absorbs bumps; strong.
• Cons: rusts easily; can be heavy.

Aluminium

Common on city-style bikes

• Pros: lighter than steel; doesn’t rust.
• Cons: doesn’t absorb bumps.

Carbon fibre

Not common on city-style bikes

• ±Ê°ù´Ç²õ:Ìýlight; absorbs bumps.
• Cons:Ìý±ð³æ±è±ð²Ô²õ¾±±¹±ð.

Gears – how many and what type?

How many?

Many modern bikes come with 27 gears – much more than you’ll need for commuter riding. In the city, five to eight gears is plenty, although more may be useful if you’re riding in a hilly area. Additional gears will cost more, add weight, and increase maintenance issues.

Quality

Gears come as part of a groupset. This includes everything making up the gears (front and rear derailleurs, cassette, chain, cranks and shifters) as well as the brakes. Each groupset manufacturer makes different grades (from entry-level to pro) for both mountain and road bikes (commuter bikes can fall into both categories).

As the grades improve, groupsets get lighter, have more gears, are more durable and perform more efficiently. But if you’re in the everyday commuter group, you probably won’t notice much difference between low-end and high-end groupsets. As long as the gears are kept clean and looked after properly, a lower-end groupset is fine.

Internal hubs

Internal hubs – where the gear system is inside a covered chamber – are a good option for everyday cyclists. They’re low maintenance, and gears can be shifted while you’re stopped. On the downside, they make it fiddly to remove the wheel if you have a flat tyre, and can be pretty bulky.

Wheels and tyres

There are a few things to consider to get the right wheels for commuting.

• Durability: double-walled rims are stronger than single-walled ones.
• Spoke count: a higher spoke count is better if you ride on bumpy paths.
• Ease of removal: quick-release wheels make life easier if you have a flat or want to throw your bike in the boot. On the downside, they also make it easier for someone to steal your wheel.

Tyres

• Width: choose a slightly wider wheel over a slick road bike tyre for commuting. They’re less likely to puncture and will give you more traction.
• Tread: if you’re riding on the road, avoid knobbly mountain bike tread – it’s meant for off-road biking, not city commutes.
• Punctures: low-quality tyres (that often come on new bikes) are more likely to puncture and wear out faster. Look for tyres that are marketed as being ‘puncture resistant’ – they’ll reduce your risk of a flat. The same goes for riding with the correct tyre pressure. The tyre quality might not be very obvious to begin with so it can be worth discussing the tyres with the store, and researching tyre brands online beforehand.

Grips, pedals and saddle

The comfort of these three components can have a big impact on your ride.Ìý

• Grips: there’s a wide variety of handlebar grips available and it’s usually easy to replace grips with ones that you prefer. See how the bike’s grips feel in your hand; are they too narrow or too fat for your hand? Do they give good grip so that your hand won’t shift or slip? If they grips don’t feel right, ask about replacing them with more suitable ones.
• Pedals: simple pedals with no clips are easy to use and good for casual riding. For longer distance rides or commutes you may want to try pedals with toe clips that your shoe fits snugly into; these stop your foot slipping off. They also help make the ride more efficient; as one foot pushes the pedal down, the other foot is pulling its pedal up. For the ultimate in efficient riding you’ll want clip-in pedals, for which you’ll need special cycling shoes that clip onto the cleats on the pedal. Be warned, these take practice to use!
• Saddle: there’s a wide range of saddles, from wide, comfortable saddles usually found on cruiser bikes, to narrow, firm saddles on road bikes. Saddle comfort is very important so try before you buy.

Bike accessories

Some bike accessories are essential for your ride, but which ones exactly? We believe the following are worth the cash:

• Helmet and bell: this almost goes without saying, but in case you need a reminder, you must wear a helmet with an Australian Standards sticker. You’ll also need to have a bell fitted to the bike.
• Lights and reflector: if you’ll be riding at night or in low light, you’ll need a front white and rear red light that are visible for 200 metres. Some lights can be charged by USB, others have batteries. If you’re into green power, some bikes come with dynamo hubs, which are pedal-powered lights. See our bike lights buying guide for more information. When riding on the road at night, you must have a rear red reflector, and preferably a white front reflector as well.
• High-visibility vest: construction sites aren’t the only place for fluoro vests – they’re also important for safe cyclists. Fluorescent vests or cloths are important for night riding on the road, to make you as visible as possible. In daytime road riding, wear light, bright colours.
• Rack: to attach a bag or panniers: if the bike doesn’t come with a rack, check you’re still able to attach one.
• Luggage: there’s a lot of pannier bags, backpacks and other luggage for cyclists designed for use either on or off your bike.
• Mud guards: even if it isn’t raining, water on the road can splash up from your tyres and onto your clothes.
• Lock: a D-lock is your best bet if the bike is often parked in public spaces. Otherwise a good quality chain can be enough, but be aware that these can be defeated by a professional or determined thief.
• Pump: you’ll need a floor pump for home use (easier to get the tyre pressure right) and a hand pump for the road.
• Repair kit: tyre levers and a puncture kit are essential, especially for regular riders. Levers make it easier to change tyre inner tubes – and repairing tubes costs less than buying new ones.

City cycling tips

Insurance

If you cycle regularly, insurance is worth considering. Sign up as a member with your state cycling body and they’ll usually provide personal injury and public liability insurance, plus income protection in case of an accident.

This insurance generally won’t cover your bike, though, so if it’s a pricey ride there are a range of ways to insure your bike for theft or an accident. Find out more in our bike insurance buying guide.Ìý

Maintenance

Depending on how much you ride, you should get a bike serviced every six to 12 months.Ìý

Cleaning your chain regularly will reduce wear and tear, and ultimately repair costs. It’s worth signing up to a bicycle maintenance course to learn the basics.

Finding the best route

If you’ve made the decision to start riding to work, or even part of the way, it pays to plan your route. The most direct route isn’t always the safest or the quickest. Consider hills – it’s often easier to ride further on a flatter ride. While main roads can be the most direct, unless they have bike paths, using backstreets often means a safer and more pleasant journey.

There are various digital route planners that can help you find safter routes and bike paths. One we’ve tried are:

•  – offers bike directions on its desktop format. The bike function is also available in the mobile app versions of Google Maps.

Bike-shopping checklist

Before you shop

Consider these bike-buying questions:

• How far and how fast will you ride?
• What type of terrain will you be riding on? Is it bumpy or smooth? Flat or hilly?
• Will you regularly need to carry the bike up lots of stairs? If so, a lighter bike may be a priority.

Once you’re at the bike shop:

• Does it fit you?
• What’s the frame made out of?
• How many gears does it have?
• What type of pedals does it have?
• Are the grips and saddle comfortable?
• What groupset does it have (brand and grade)?
• Does it have quick-release wheels?
• Does it have puncture-resistant tyres?
• Double- or single-walled rims?
• Does it take a rack and mudguards?
• What accessories are included?
• How long is the frame warranty?
• Does the price include any services?

Cost

Expect to pay around $400–500 for a decent casual bike. For bikes such as flat bar and road bikes, you can find decent models for less than $1000 but expect to pay well over $1000 for good quality.Ìý

The post How to buy the best bike for your needs appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

There I was, on the aforementioned bike, at a pedestrian crossing in Sydney’s North Strathfield. The man was friendly at first, jovial almost. He asked about my bike – which I was testing for ÌÇÐÄVlog – how much it cost, how it was to ride, et cetera.

Then, without a millisecond’s warning, his face crumpled into a deep, molten rage. A rapid, mind-boggling tonal shift .Ìý

“DO YOU HAVE INSURANCE FOR THAT THING?” He screamed. “YOU PEOPLE ARE GONNA KILL SOMEONE. THREE TIMES I’VE NEARLY BEEN HIT.”

I was bewildered, shocked, confused.Ìý

I made the mistake of responding, telling him to mind his own business. And that’s when it happened. That’s when I was almost assaulted by a man with a shopping trolley.Ìý 

“YOU’LL BE WEARING THIS SHOPPING TROLLEY IN A SECOND!”

Thankfully, the little green man appeared, to the rescue. I zipped off as fast as I could, leaving a fist-shaking foe in my rearview mirror.Ìý

Turns out some people really, really hate electric bikes.

Not me though, I love them.

Electric boogaloo

For the past couple of months ÌÇÐÄVlog has been reviewing electric bikes. If you’re not sure what an electric bike is, you’re not alone. Until last week, I considered them akin to mini motorcycles, but no. Electric bikes are more like normal bikes that – thanks to the magic of battery-powered assistance – are easier to pedal, particularly uphill. In practice it feels a little like putting your mountain bike in a higher gear, but without sacrificing speed.

I wanted to give one a try. So, for the last couple of weeks I’ve been integrating an electric bike into my everyday life. It’s been a joy. It’s been rewarding, surprising even. It’s allowed me to explore crevices of Sydney I never knew existed. If you have the means and the time, I highly recommend getting one.

I wanted to try an electric bike because I’m sick of driving cars.Ìý

A recent job switch forced me into the unenviable situation of driving to the city and, to be frank, it sucks. Tolls, traffic and soaring petrol prices are hitting my wallet and stress levels for six.Ìý

And it made me wonder: what if I just… cycled to work every day?

I live in a nice leafy suburb in Greater Western Sydney, 26km from the CBD. Depending on traffic, it can take anywhere between 35 and 45 minutes to get to our office in Sydney’s Inner West. For laughs I’d already checked how long it would take to cycle, despite not owning an adult-sized bike. Two hours. Damn. That’s a long time. But then I thought, two hours? I can handle that. Bugger it. Why not?

Magical mystery ride

I hauled my lazy self out of bed at 6.30am, hopped on the bike, and began my journey.

The main reason I was keen for a two-hour cycle at an ungodly time in the morning was the route. I knew it would be glorious.

Google Maps had me cycling down Windsor Road to the Parramatta River, then free wheeling all the way to Rhodes. After a brief tour through North Strathfield it would be parks and riverside jaunts all the way to the ÌÇÐÄVlog office.Ìý

I thought it would be magical, and I was right.

Parramatta River is a gloriously wide body of sparkling water, broad and deep enough to be a ferry route, that carries tourists and commuters all the way from Parra to Circular Quay, where Sydney Harbour meets the CBD. Despite being a damp Tuesday morning, cycling on the riverside – with incredible views that stretched into the vanishing point – was a complete dream worth waking up for. I’d replaced a nerve-shredding drive into the M4 motorway hellscape for a life-affirming cycle in paradise. Friends, I was living.

But it was far from perfect. It’s mind-boggling to me that electric bikes don’t have a slot for mobile phones. Perhaps it’s a legal or regulation issue, but when I wasn’t sure where to go, I had to fumble in my pocket for my phone, clumsily unlock it and somehow navigate to Google Maps without crashing. It sure would have been convenient – and probably safer – to have easy access to Google Maps while cycling.

It also took me a while to figure out exactly how to maximise assisted pedalling. At first I assumed the assistance would be constant, but it wasn’t. The bike I was using assisted me to a point, until around 25 km/h, then I noticed that the bike didn’t just stop assisting me, but seemed to actively create resistance which forced me to slow down. A little frustrating, but fine. I kept things at a steady 20–25 km/h and enjoyed the ride.

Butt pain and apex predators

My butt cheeks didn’t enjoy the ride.Ìý

They are in turmoil. They have been permanently altered and I’m uncertain they’ll ever recover.Ìý

Without those Lycra shorts with the comfy little butt cushions, I endured a decent amount of pain. Understandable. I spent four hours on the bike that day. It got so bad I had to get really super creative, placing different parts of my meaty cheeks on the seat during the cycle home. I was still feeling it days later.

I also came under attack from Australia’s apex predator – the magpie. As someone who arrived in Australia late in life, I thought the stories of magpies swooping in from the skies to attack cyclists were just children’s tales. I couldn’t have been more wrong. I was terrified, shaken to my core, to discover magpie attacks are a very real thing. In the magpie, I’ve uncovered an enemy for life.

My legs hurt a lot less than I thought they would. Having never really cycled since I was a teenager, I thought it’d take me days to recover from four hours on a bike. That wasn’t really the case. Assisted pedalling really took the bite out of hills. The journey felt like exercise, but light exercise. The best type of exercise.Ìý

It was a beautiful start to the working day. My legs were a teensy bit wobbly, but nothing I couldn’t handle. High on endorphins, I had a great day, and looked forward to the cycle home.

Game changer, for shorter trips

But as enjoyable as my cycle to work was, it didn’t feel sustainable. As a parent of two kids drowning in “activities”, devoting four waking hours to work travel would be impossible, regardless of how fun it was.

But I’ve found a sweet spot. Those little trips to the shop – those “too far to walk” trips – are perfect for an electric bike. I suspect an electric bike would also be perfect for folks who live closer to the city. If it’s a choice between a 15-minute train and a 30-minute cycle, I’m taking the bike every time.

Despite apex predators swooping from the skies and permanently altered butt cheeks, I find it impossible not to recommend an electric bike. If you’ve got the means and your life circumstances align, they can be a game changer.

Just watch out for enemies of the e-bike armed with shopping trolleys.Ìý

The post I tried an electric bike for a month and fell in love appeared first on ÌÇÐÄVlog.

On this page:

• Assembling the ebike
• Foldable aspect
• Using the ebike
• What's it like to ride?
• How long does the battery last?

There aren’t too many electric bikes available for under $1000, so when we saw one at Aldi it was cause for both alarm and excitement. Could Aldi have cracked the code? A foldable electric bicycle that’s more accessible to those with a lower budget?

As seems to be the case with most big-ticket items sold cheaper by major retailers, for all the pros there are certainly cons.

The bike’s smaller 270Wh battery means the charge will last for a shorter period of time before requiring recharging – depending on the riding environment – and this will deplete the lithium-ion technology quicker as a result.

Aldi also isn’t known for keeping a stock of replacement parts, which makes us think this will be a short-lived disposable electric bike, so it isn’t the most sustainable choice. And forget the bike if you’re over 100kg as this is the specified maximum weight limit.

Assembling the ebike

Aldi’s folding electric bike comes in one big box that’s quite heavy, so make sure you’ve got two people to carry it home. When you open it, it seems quite complex but actually just folds out into a small number of pieces – the main (already folded) bike, the handlebars, and the seat. It also comes with the all-important Allen key and a wrench for attaching the pedals.

The box and instructions basically tell you that you need a skilled bicycle mechanic to put the bike together, or a “competent person”. We assume this “competent person” is a definition known only to Aldi, as it’s not in the instruction manual. However, given our tester’s experience with servicing bicycles and putting them together, we figured we met the definition.Ìý

If you aren’t across servicing or assembling a bicycle and the tools involved, budget an extra $120–150 for a bike service person to put it together.

Taking off all the packaging that protects the bicycle pieces is laborious, so set aside a chunk of time to do this. Each step is complicated by the labelling on the bike itself being black on black, which makes it a little awkward to read.

Unfortunately there’s a step missing in the manual which is quite annoying, as it took us a few minutes to figure out how to split the handlebars so we could tighten the mechanism to keep the handlebars from coming out of their aligned position. Aside from that, attaching the seat post, handlebars and pedals was relatively painless.

As the bike is delivered with partial charging, it only took three hours for it to get up to maximum. Around 80% is the recommended charge, but with no percentages on the readouts, how are you supposed to determine that?

Foldable aspect

Fully charged and ready to go, we thought we should see how it folds, which took three quick releases and some awkward handling due to the weight of the bike (which is about 24kg). The instructions seem to be missing a crucial step here as well – a small button needs to be pushed in to release both the handlebar stem and the main fold.

This won’t be an issue if you’ve put the bike together yourself as you would’ve experienced that frustration already, but if you’ve had a professional put it together, it might take a little while to puzzle it out.

You’ll need to practise this a few times to get used to the awkwardness in case you’re rushing to get on a train or head off to work. It’s not exactly a neat folded position, but it stays upright so it’s handy if you’re travelling by train and need to put it somewhere. It’s very awkwardly portable, but given the price range this isn’t unexpected.

Using the ebike

So you’ve got your ebike assembled and you’re ready to go, but if you’re used to any other electric bike, you’re likely to notice some missing features. For example, the ebike claims it’ll reach 20–25km/hr, but there’s no way to know as there’s no speedometer on the bike, which is a common feature on many other electric bikes.

The battery indicator is pretty basic, with three LEDs on the right handlebar to indicate how empty it is as you ride. Normally a more expensive ebike would give you more gradations to assess how close to empty you are. There’s an indicator on the battery itself which is marginally better, but still not as precise as we might like.

The bike doesn’t come with any personal safety gear, so you’ll need your own bike helmet (conveniently – and opportunistically – Aldi was selling them at the same time) and any other safety gear like bright or reflective clothing so you stand out in traffic. It does come with front and rear lights that are easily activated with a button on the left handlebar, just below the button for a horn sound that is very good at attracting attention.

Adjust both the seat height and handlebar height dependent on your height – again, a professional installer should do this for you.

You’ll also need to grab (or buy) a pump, as the tyres are very low to begin with. If you’ve had it put together by a professional, they should do this for you, but you’ll need one anyway for future top-ups or tyre repairs.

What’s it like to ride?

Riding Aldi’s folding electric bike is OK. There isn’t a lot of shock absorption, so be prepared to be a little achy from rides unless you live in an area with absolutely level roads. The pedal assist is reasonably smooth and equivalent to other electric bikes.

Foldable bikes tend to have small wheels, so if you’re used to a regular sized bike it might take some getting used to as you reduce your revolutions per minute. It’s a single speed bike, which means less complexity, but more reliance on the electric pedal assist which works seamlessly.

Speaking of pedal assist, if this is your first time on an electric bike, you’re going to want to take a look at riding it in a non-trafficked area to get up to speed on how electric bikes work – our electric bikes buying guide can help.

The throttle, which makes the electric bike go without pedal assist, is great for helping you push a rather heavy bike reasonably easily, but the instruction manual specifies you shouldn’t use the throttle while on the bike – a little bit like showing chocolate to a toddler then telling them not to eat it.

The good thing about throttle is that if you start off on a hill it allows you to get up to speed so you can use the pedal assist, but throttle can be a little surprising because of the mild jump it has when you activate it (by twisting the handlebar), so we can understand why Aldi have put this exclusion in the manual.

How long does the battery last?

We put the electric bike through its paces (using a lot of hills) and managed to get to around 30km before the battery pack was in the red, at which point it’s advisable to recharge (Aldi recommends maintaining the charge between 20–80%).Ìý

This isn’t a great range but would be suitable for someone just doing local trips. The power and range is reflected in its specifications, at 7.8Ah and 36V, or 270Wh. This means it has a little difficulty getting up steep hills, which plays out practically, and the range is shorter than many other electric bikes on the market.

On level ground and a full battery you might get substantially more kilometres out of this bicycle than we found. But everybody’s road will be different, which is why manufacturers and retailers are reluctant to put max travel distances on bikes (or why they include them with a good deal of caveats).

ÌÇÐÄVlog tip: Like many chargers recommend, don’t leave the ebike to charge unattended or overnight with no one to monitor it.Ìý

Ultimately for a cheap electric folding bicycle, it’s a nice looking bike, even if it’s a bit annoying to put together (it’s worth saving yourself the trouble and getting it done professionally if you’ve never assembled a bicycle before). It doesn’t sit neatly folded like a Brompton, but it also doesn’t cost several thousand dollars and has an electric motor.

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Service and maintenance are essential to keeping your e-bike running smoothly and preventing breakdowns, accidents and costly repairs.Ìý

And it’s not just a matter of keeping the frame, chain, tyres and brakes in good working order, as you would with a regular bike – you’ll also need to make sure you’re taking care of the electrical components, including the motor, display, battery and cables.Ìý

So here’s how to keep your e-bike running smoothly.

Doing a basic home service 

If you ride your bike frequently, you should give it a simple home service roughly every month, working through the general maintenance list below.Ìý

Frame

To clean your e-bike frame:

1. Remove the battery and display (if you can) and cover the battery holder, motor and any electrical connections with a tarp or towel to keep them dry.Ìý

2. Gently rinse down the frame, taking care to avoid the battery, motor and controls. Never use a high-pressure hose as this could damage the electrical components.

3. Use a cloth to scrub down the frame with some bike wash (or car wash detergent). Pay special attention to the brake pads, as dirt build-up can make them less effective, as well as sweaty areas such as the handlebars and the seat.Ìý 

4. Rinse with plain water and then dry the entire frame, using a dry cloth to prevent rust.Ìý

5. Wait a few hours to make sure the battery holder is completely dry before reattaching the display and battery.

Drive train (chain and gears)

Clean

Apply a bicycle degreaser or chain-cleaning product to the chains and gears, making sure you reach all the nooks and crannies.Ìý Use a thin brush or a metal implement to remove any excess mud stuck in the gears, derailleurs or cassette.

Lubricate

Once the degreaser has fully dried, apply a bike lubricant to the chain and run the chain through all the gears. Turn your pedals backwards (or if the chain doesn’t move backwards, turn the pedals forwards by mounting the bike or placing it on its stand so the wheel comes off the ground) and apply your lubricant where the chain runs freely, avoiding contact with the brake discs, calipers or brake pad. Remove excess lubricant from the chain with a rag or cloth.

Nuts and bolts

The nuts and bolts holding your bike together will loosen over time and need to be tightened. Check your pedals, cranks, axels, steering column and handlebars, and tighten any loose nuts or bolts with an allen key or spanner.

Tyres   

Keeping your tyres pumped up prevents punctures and helps you get more range out of your battery (underinflated tyres can reduce the lifespan of your battery by as much as 40%).Ìý

Give your tyres a quick check before every ride. If they feel too soft, use a pump with a pressure gauge to get them back in the range recommended by the manufacturer, which should be embossed on the side wall of the tyre.Ìý

Brakes

Clear any dirt or debris from your brake pads and always test your brakes before setting off for a ride.

Cables

There’s not much you can do to maintain your electrical cables except keep an eye on them (if they’re not enclosed). If you do spot a damaged cable, take it in for a professional repair.Ìý

Motor

Never meddle with your motor – not only can this be dangerous, but it can also void your warranty. If your motor is playing up, try removing the battery and putting it back in again, as this should “reset” the motor. If this doesn’t work, you’ll need to take it to a professional.Ìý

Tips to make your e-bike battery last longer

Your battery is the most valuable component of your e-bike, so it’s worth getting into some good habits to extend its lifespan:

Charge the battery after every ride 

Don’t wait until the battery gets very low or empty.

Keep the battery dry and out of direct sunlight

The battery will charge and perform best at a temperature of 10-20℃.

Use the lowest assistance level you need when cycling

When you’re riding on the flat or downhill, turn down the assistance to prevent draining your battery.

Remove the battery for long-term storage

If you aren’t going to be using it for a while, store the battery in a cool dry place with a charge of 30-60%.Top up the charge every month or so to stop it going flat.Ìý

Keep your bike well-maintained

Underinflated tyres or rubbing brakes can drain the battery faster.

Never take apart the battery yourself

This could cause electric shock – and will void your warranty.

How often should you have your e-bike serviced?

Melbourne Electric Bicycles and Perth Electric Bike Centre co-owner Nathan Reizer says that doing some simple general maintenance should keep your e-bike running smoothly – but that you’ll also need to have it professionally serviced from time to time, depending on how much you use it.Ìý

“Just like your car mechanic, we usually program your e-bike system to remind you that a service is due every 12 months or 2000km – whichever comes first,” he says.

A service will involve a thorough examination for any mechanical issues and a general tune-up of the mechanics. The mechanic will also plug in a diagnostic tool that will pick up any electrical problems and install any available software updates.

What’s included in a standard e-bike service?

A  service at one of Reizer’s shops is fairly typical of what a standard e-bike service includes:

• Tighten all axle nuts, including quick-release hubs.
• Tighten all nuts and bolts, including cranks, pedals, handlebars, brake levers, gear levers, stem bolts, headset, kickstand, rear rack and any others, as required.
• Check the frame for any stress fractures or cracks.
• Check the wheels are true.
• Adjust the brakes and gears.
• Check the chain and cassette for wear.
• Inflate tyres to their correct pressure.
• Check the lights.
• Degrease the chain and lubricate it.
• Wipe the bike down.
• Check that all electrics are working and update the software.

How much does an e-bike service cost?

Prices for a standard service can range from about $100 to $300, depending on what’s included.

Repairs

Here are some of the common repairs your e-bike may need during its lifespan:

Mechanical repairs

An e-bike has the same mechanics as a regular bike, so the most common mechanical repairs will be similar. Reizer says the frequency with which your bike will need repairs depends on the quality of the bike, how often you ride it, and what types of ride you go on.

“Frequent use, hill riding and a heavy rider can all put extra strain on the mechanics,” he says.Ìý

He adds that the most common mechanical repairs for an e-bike are:

Brake-pad replacement

Parts cost: $50-60, depending on the type of brakes. Labour cost: $50.Ìý

Chain replacement

Parts cost: $20-30 for single-speed (internal gears) and $30-$80 for external gears. Labour cost: $20-25.

Cassette replacement

Parts cost: Range from $35-140, depending on the model. Labour cost: $30.

Gear-cable replacement

Parts cost: $12-15. Labour cost $20.

Tyres

Parts cost: $15 for a tube replacement (if the tyre is punctured). $45-90 for a replacement tyre (if it’s worn out). Labour cost $25-30.

Electrical repairs

The electrics on your e-bike are some of their most expensive components. But, according to Reizer, issues with the motor are rare on good-quality models and other electrical issues can often be fixed easily.

“These bikes are well-designed so that when something goes wrong, we can easily diagnose it, isolate the faulty component and replace it, which is actually the most cost-effective solution,” he says.

Reizer says the most common electric issues/repairs for an e-bike are:

Battery replacement

Common cause: Leaving your bike in storage without recharging the battery frequently enough.

Cost: $950-1,500. No labour cost.

Remote/display replacement

Common cause: Dropping your bike.

Cost: Depends on the brand. For a Bosch remote $75-100. For a Bosch display $195-500. Labour cost $30-50.

Connection issues 

(e.g. An electric component is not connecting, preventing the bike from turning on.)

Common cause 1: Moisture or corrosion between the terminals.

Cost: $60–120 to diagnose and isolate the issue and have the terminals cleaned (battery, display and motor).

Common cause 2: Battery inside the display loses its capacity and turns itself off.

Cost: $60–120 to diagnose and isolate the issue, and the fix is free: just plug your display into a micro-USB charger overnight.

Magnet detached or incorrectly aimed at the sensor on the bike frame

(E-bikes usually have a magnet on the back spokes, which needs to be in place for the bike to work.)

Cost: Free to reposition the magnet. $20 to replace the magnet.

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